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THIRTY YEARS 



AKCTIC EEGIONS: 



A NARRATIVE OF 



TljE EXPLORATIONS ^ND ADVENTURES 



SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 



cincinnati: 
United States Book and Bible Company, 

178 and 180 Elm Street. 



r 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, by 

H. DAYTON, ' 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the 
Southern District of New York. 



'" 










Vi PREFACE 



This volume gives a graphic narrative of the advfcuturos 
in Arctic Kegions of perhaps the most celebrated Arctic 
traveler of this, or other times. Graphic — because in the 
main. Sir John Franklin tells his own story. Apart from 
the interest of the narrative, and its intrinsic merits, the 
deep interest, which for years has been felt in the fate of 
Sir John Franklin, will attract attention to the story of 
his early adventures, now, for the first time, presented in 
a cheap and readable shape. The narrative of Sir John's 
first Polar Sea Expedition, we venture to say, is unsur- 
passed among books of travel and adventure for intense, 
all-absorbing interest. 

The book sketches Franklin's three expeditions, and 
gives all the information to be had respecting the fourth 
and last sad one which will forever be shrouded in mys- 
tery to this world. We also add a sketch of the expedi- 
tions sent in search of Franklin, and their results. 

Franklin's first journey into Arctic Regions was mado 



VI PREFACE. 

in 1816-, when the English nation was roused to a strong 
desire for the acquisition of geographical knowledge 
in British America and the Arctic Zone. His second, two 
or three years later. His third in 1825, and the last in 
1845. We have endeavored to select the pith of his 
story from the bulky volumes inaccessible to the general 
reader, and, indeed, out of print long ago ; and now to 
be found only with old book collections in stray copies in 
English cities. In reading this true story of the adven 
tures of a truly brave man, the reader cannot fail to per 
ceive that in this case, at least, truth is more strange and 
more interesting than fiction. 
Washington, D. C. D. W B. 



THIRTY YEARS 
IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 

CHAPTER I. 

Sir John Franklin's first expedition to the Arctic 
Regions was made in the year 1816, as Lieutenant 
under Captain Buchan, with the ships " Dorothea" and 
" Trent." 

After much difficulty, these vessels gained lat 
80 deg. 34 min., north of Spitzbergen ; but were ob- 
liged speedily to withdraw, and try their fortune ofi 
the western edge of the pack. Here, however, a wild 
war of ice and waves prevailed, so that choice and ne- 
cessity equally induced the bold experiment of dash- 
ing through it, to take shelter in the pack. First 
went the " Dorothea," and then the " Trent," whqse 
crew seemed to a man imbued with the dauntless 
spirit of the Lieutenant in command. A dreadful 
pause preceded the critical moment. " Each person," 
says Beechey, in his narrative, "instinctively secured 
his own hold, and, with his eyes fixed upon his masts, 



Thirty Years 



awaited in breathless anxiety the moment of concus- 
sion. It soon arrived — the brig, cutting her way 
through the light ice, came in violent contact with the 
main body. In an instant we all lost our footing, the 
masts bent with the impetus, and the cracking tim- 
bers from below bespoke a pressure which was calcu- 
lated to awaken our serious apprehensions." The 
gloominess of the scene and circumstances was not 
cheered by the dolorous tolling of the ship's great 
Dell, which never sounded of itself in the roughest 
gale, but now was so swung by the violent motion ot 
the ship, that its deep tones pealed forth like a death- 
knell, and the officers, fearing the awakened supersti- 
tion of the men, ordered it to be muffled. A few 
hours released the vessels from their imprisonment, 
but the " Dorothea" was found to be completely dis- 
abled. A short time at Fairhaven in Spitzbergen was 
spent in necessary repairs, and even then she was unfit 
for any further service than the voyage to England. 
Franklin volunteered to prosecute the enterprise with 
the " Trent" alone, but the Admiralty orders opposed 
such a proceeding, and the vessels returned home in 
company. 

In 1819, Sir John Franklin — then Captain Frank- 
lin — was appointed to the command of an Expedition 
from the shores of Hudson's Bay, to explore the 
Northern Coast of America, from the mouth of Cop- 



In the Arctic Regions. 



per Mine River eastward. This is probably the mosl 
thrilling Arctic Expedition on record, and we shall 
give it in Franklin's own words. The Expedition 
consisted of John Franklin, Commander ; John Rich- 
ardson, Doctor ; George Bach and Eobert Hood, two 
Admiralty Midshipmen. The agents of the Hudson's 
Bay Company were ordered to assist the Expedition 
in every possible way. The two Admiralty Midship- 
men were to make drawings of the land and waters, 
and Doctor Richardson was naturalist as well as doc- 
tor to the Expedition. 

On Sunday, the 23d of May, 1814, the party set 
sail from Gravesend, and arrived at Hudson's Straits 
August 11, and at York Factory the 30th. The 
Governor of the Company here received the exploring 
party. The Northwest Company and the Bay Com- 
pany were, at this time, in violent opposition to each 
other, which was unfortunate for the Expedition. 
The Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company gave to 
the party one of the largest of his boats, and a crew 
was made up from the ship's company, with the ex- 
ception of the steersman, who was furnished by the 
Governor. 

The narrative now commences in the words of Cap- 
tain Franklin. 



10 Thirty Tears 



OHAPTEK II. 

On the 9th of September, 1819, our boat being 
completed, arrangements were made for our departure 
as soon as the tide should serve. But, when the 
stores were brought down to the beach, it was found 
that the boat would not contain them all. The whole, 
therefore, of the bacon, and part of the flour, rice, to- 
bacco, and ammunition, were returned into the store. 
The bacon was too bulky an article to be forwarded 
under any circumstances ; but the Governor undertook 
to forward the rest next season. In making the selec- 
tion of articles to carry with us, I was guided by the 
judgment of Governor Williams, who assured me that 
tobacco, ammunition, and spirits, could be procured 
in the interior, otherwise I should have been very un- 
willing to have left these essential articles behind. 
We embarked at noon, and were honored with a salute 
of eight guns and three cheers from the Governor and 
all the inmates of the fort, assembled to witness our 
departure. We gratefully returned their cheers, and 
then made sail, much delighted at having now com- 



In the Arctic Regions, 11 

menced our voyage into the interior of America. The 
wind and tide failing us at the distance of six miles 
above the Factory, and the current being too rapid for 
using oars to advantage, the crew had to commence 
tracking, or dragging the boat by a line, to which they 
were harnessed. This operation is extremely laborious 
in these rivers. Our men were obliged to walk along 
the steep declivity of a high bank, rendered at this 
season soft and slippery by frequent rains, and their 
progress was often further impeded by fallen trees, 
which, having slipped from the verge of the thick 
wood above, hung on the face of the bank in a great 
variety of directions. Notwithstanding these ob- 
stacles, however, we advanced at the rate of two 
miles an hour, one-half of the crew relieving the 
other at intervals of an hour and a half. The banks 
of the river, and its islands, composed of alluvial soil, 
are well covered with pines, larches, poplars, and wil- 
lows. The breadth of the stream some distance above 
the Factory is about half a mile, and its depth during 
this day's voyage varied from three to nine feet. 

At sunset we landed, and pitched the tent for the 
night, having made a progress of twelve miles. A 
\arge fire was quickly kindled, supper speedily prepar- 
ed, and as readily despatched, when we retired with 
our buffalo robes on- and enjoyed a night of sound re- 
pose. 



12 Thirty Years 



The next morning our camp was in motion at five 
A. M., and we soon afterwards embarked with the flat- 
tering accompaniment of a fair wind : it proved, how- 
ever, too light to enable us to stem the stream, and 
we were obliged to resume the fatiguing operation of 
tracking, sometimes under cliffs so steep that the men 
could scarcely find a footing, and not unfrequently 
over spots rendered so miry, by the small streams that 
trickled from above, as to be almost impassable. In 
the course of the day we passed the scene of a very 
melancholy accident. Some years ago two fami- 
lies of Indians, induced by the flatness of a small 
beach, which lay betwixt the cliff and the river, chose 
it as the site of their encampment. They retired 
quietly to rest, not aware that the precipice, detached 
from the bank, aud urged by an accumulation of wa- 
ter in the crevice behind, was tottering to its base. 
It fell during the night, and the whole party was buried 
under its ruins. 

The length of our voyage to-day was, in a direct 
line, sixteen miles and a quarter, on a S. S. W. course. 
We encamped soon after sunset, and the tent was 
scarcely pitched when it began to rain heavily, and 
continued to do so all night. 

Sixteen miles on the 11th, and five on the following 
morning, brought us to the commencement of Hayes' 
River, which is formed by the confluence of the Sha- 



In the Arctic Regions. 13 

mattawa and Steel Kivers. Our observations place 
this spot in latitude 56 deg. 22 min. 32 sec. N., longi- 
tude 93 deg. 1 min. 37 sec, W. It is forty-eight 
miles and a half from York Factory, including the 
windings of the river. Steel River, through which 
our course lay, is about three hundred yards wide at 
its mouth ; its banks have more elevation than those 
of Hayes' River, but they shelve more gradually down 
to the stream, and afford a tolerably good towing path, 
which compensates, in some degree, for the rapids and 
frequent shoals that impede its navigation. We suc- 
ceeded in getting about ten miles above the mouth of 
the river, before the close of the day compelled us to 
disembark. 

We made an effort, on the morning of the 13th, to 
stem the current under sail, but as the course of the 
river was very serpentine, we found that greater pro- 
gress could be made by tracking. Steel River presents 
much beautiful scenery ; it winds through a narrow, 
but well wooded valley, which, at every turn disclos- 
ed to us an agreeable variety of prospect, rendered 
more picturesque by the effect of the season on the 
foliage, now ready to drop from the trees. The light 
yellow of the fading poplars formed a fine contrast tc 
the dark evergreen of the spruce, whilst the willows, 
of an intermediate hue, served to shade the two prin- 
cipal masses of color into each other. The scene 



14 Thirty Years 

was occasionally enlivened by the bright purple tints 
of the dogwood, blended with the browner shades oi 
the dwarf birch, and frequently intermixed with the 
gay yellow flowers of the shrubby cinquefoil. With 
all these charms, the scene appeared desolate from the 
want of the human species, The stillness was so 
great, that even the twittering of the Whiskey -john- 
eesli, or cinereous crow, caused us to start. Our voy- 
age to-day was sixteen miles on a S. W. course. 

Sept. 14. — We had much rain during the night, 
and also in the morning, which detained us in our 
encampment later than usual. We set out as soon 
as the weather cleared up, and in a short time arrived 
at the head of Steel Kiver, where it is formed by the 
junction of Fox and Hill Rivers. These two rivers 
are nearly of equal width, but the latter is the most 
rapid. Mr. M'Donald, on his way to Red River, in a 
small canoe, manned by two Indians, overtook us at 
this place. It may be mentioned as a proof of the 
dexterity of the Indians, and the skill with which 
they steal upon their game, that they had on the 
preceding day, with no other arms than a hatchet, 
killed two deer, a hawk, a curlew, and a sturgeon. 
Three of the Company's boats joined us in the course 
of the morning, and we pursued our course up Hill 
River in company. The water in this river was so 
low, and the rapids so bad, that we were obliged 



In the Arctic Regions. 15 

several times, in the course of the day, to jump into 
the water, and assist in lifting the boat over the large 
stones which impeded the navigation. The length of 
our voyage to=day was only six miles and three 
quarters. 

The four boats commenced operations together at 
five o'clock the following morning ; but our boat 
being overladen, we soon found that we were unable 
to keep pace with the others ; and therefore proposed 
to the gentlemen in charge of the Company's boats, 
that they should relieve us of part of our cargo. This 
they declined doing, under the plea of not having 
received orders to that effect, notwithstanding that the 
circular, with which I was furnished by Governor 
Williams, strictly enjoined all the Company's servants 
to afford us every assistance. In consequence of this 
refusal we dropt behind, and our steersman, who was 
inexperienced, being thus deprived of the advantage 
of observing the route followed by the guide, who wan 
in the foremost boat, frequently took a wrong channel. 
The tow-line broke twice, and the boat was only pre- 
vented from going broadside down the stream, and 
breaking to pieces against the stones, by the officers 
and men leaping into the water, and holding her head 
to the current until the line could be carried again to 
the shore. It is but justice to say, that in these 
trying situations we received much assistance from 



16 Thirty Years 



Mr. Thomas Swayne, who with great kindness waited 
for us with the boat under his charge, at such places 
as he apprehended would be most difficult to pass. 
We encamped at sunset, completely jaded with toil. 
Our distance made good this day was twelve miles 
and a quarter. 

The labors of the 16th commenced at half-past five, 
and for some time the difficulty of getting the boats over 
the rapids was equal to what we experienced yester- 
day. Having passed a small brook, however, termed 
Half-way Greek, the river became deeper, and although 
rapid, it was smooth enough to be named by our 
Orkney boatmen Still-water. We were further re- 
lieved by the Company's clerks consenting to take a 
few boxes of our stores into their boats. Still we 
made only eleven miles in the course of the day. 

The banks of Hill Eiver are higher, and have a 
more broken outline, than those of Steel or Haye's 
Kivers. The cliffs of alluvial clay rose in some places 
to the height of eighty or ninety feet above the 
stream, and were surmounted by hills about two hun- 
dred feet high, but the thickness of the wood pre- 
vented us from seeing far beyond the mere banks of 
the river. 

Sept. 17. — About half-past five in the morning we 
commenced tracking, and soon came to a ridge ot 
rock which extended across the stream. From this 



In the Artie Regions. 17 

place the boat was dragged up several narrow rocky 
channels, nntil we came to the Rock-Portage, where 
the stream, pent in by a range of small islands, forms 
several cascades. In ascending the river, the boats 
with their cargoes are carried over one of the islands, 
but in the descent they are shot down the most 
shelving of the cascades. Having performed the 
operations of carrying, launching and re-stowing the 
cargo, we plied the oars for a short distance, and 
landed at a depot called Rock-House. Here we were 
informed that the rapids in the upper parts of Hill 
River were much worse and more numerons than 
those we had passed, particularly in the present 
season, owing to the unusual lowness of the water. 
This intelligence was very mortifying, especially as 
the gentlemen in charge of the Company's boats 
declared that they were unable to carry any part of 
our stores beyond this place ; and the traders, guides, 
and most experienced of the boatmen, were of opinion, 
that unless our boat was still further lightened, the 
winter would put a stop to our progress before we 
could reach Cumberland House, or any eligible post. 
Sixteen pieces were therefore necessarily left with Mr. 
Bunn, the gentleman in charge of the post, to be 
forwarded by the Athabasca canoes next season, this 
being their place of rendezvous. 

After this we recommenced our voyage, and having 



18 Thirty Years 

pulled nearly a mile, arrived at Borrowick's Fall, 
where the boat was dragged up with a line, after part 
of the cargo had been carried over a small portage. 
From this place to the Mud Portage, a distance of a 
mile and three-quarters, the boats were pushed on 
with poles against a very rapid stream. Here we en- 
camped, having come seven miles during the day on a 
S. W. course. We had several snow showers in the 
course of the day, and the thermometer at bed-time 
stood at 30°. 

On the morning of the 18 th, the country was clothed 
in the livery of winter, a heavy fall of snow having 
taken place during the night. We embarked at the 
usual hour, and, in the course of the day, crossed the 
Point of Rocks, and Brassa Portages, and dragged the 
boats through several minor rapids. In this tedious 
way we only made good about nine miles. 

On Sunday the 19th, we hauled the boats up sev- 
eral short rapids, or, as the boatmen term them, 
expressively enough, spouts, and carried them over 
the Portages of Lower Burntwood and Morgan's 
Rocks ; on the latter of which we encamped, having 
proceeded, during the whole day, only one mile and 
three-quarters. 

The upper part of Hill River swells oat consider 
ably, and at Morgan's Rocks, where it is three quar- 
ters of a mile wide, we were gratified with a more ex- 



In the Arctic Regions, 19 

tensive prospect of the country than any we had 
enjoyed since leaving York Factory. The banks of 
the river here, consisting of low flat rocks with inter- 
mediate swamps, permitted us to obtain views of the 
interior, the surface of which is broken into a multi- 
tude of cone-shaped hills. The highest of these hills, 
which gives a name to the river, has an elevation not 
exceeding six hundred feet. From its summit, thirty- 
six lakes are said to be visible. The beauty of the 
scenery, dressed in the tints of autumn, called forth 
our admiration, and was the subject of Mr. Hood's 
accurate pencil. On the 20th we passed Upper Burnt- 
wood and Rocky Ledge Portages, besides several strong 
spouts ; and in the evening arrived at Smooth Rock 
Portage, where we encamped, having come three miles 
and a half. It is not easy for any but an eye-witness 
to form an adequate idea of the exertions of the Ork- 
ney boatmen in the navigation of this river. The ne- 
cessity they are under of frequently jumping into the 
water, to lift the boats over the rocks, compels them 
to remain the whole day in wet clothes, at a season 
when the temperature is far below the freezing point. 
The immense loads too, which they carry over the 
portages, is not more a matter of surprise than the 
alacrity with which they perform these laborious 
duties. 

At six on the morning of th-3 21st, we left our en- 



20 Thirty Years 



jampment, and soon after arrived at the Mossy Port- 
age, where the cargoes were carried through a deep 
hog for a quarter of a mile. The river swells out, 
ahove this portage, to the breadth of several miles, 
and as the islands are numerous, there are a great va- 
riety of channels. Night overtook us before we arrived 
at the Second Portage, so named from its being the 
second in the passage down the river. Our whole dis- 
tance this day, was one mile and a quarter. 

On the 22d, our route led us amongst many wooded 
islands, which lying in long vistas, produced scenes of 
much beauty. In the course of the day we crossed 
the Upper Portage, surmounted the Devil's Landing 
Place, and urged the boat with poles through Ground- 
water Creek. At the upper end of this creek, our 
bowman having given the boat too broad a sheer, tc 
avoid the rock, it was caught on the broadside by the 
current, and, in defiance of our utmost exertions, hur- 
ried down the rapid. Fortunately, however, it 
grounded against a rock high enough to prevent the 
current from oversettiDg it, and the crews of the other 
boats having come to our assistance, we succeeded, 
after several trials, in throwing a rope to them, with 
which they dragged our almost sinking vessel stern 
foremost up the stream, and rescued us from our per- 
ilous situation. 

We began the ascent of Trout River early in tta 



In the Arctic Regions. 21 

corning of the 27th, and in the course of the day 
passed three portages and several rapids. At the first 
of these portages- the river falls between two rocks 
ah^ut sixteen feet, and it is necessary to launch the 
boat over a precipitous rocky bank. This cascade is 
named the Trout Fall, and the beauty of the scenery 
afforded a subject for Mr. Hood's pencil. The rocks 
which form the bed of this river are slaty, and present 
sh^rp fragments, by which the feet of the boatmen are 
much lacerated. The Second Portage, in particular, 
obtains the expressive name of Knife Portage. The 
length of our voyage to-day was three miles. 

On the 28th, we passed through the remainder of 
Trout Kiver ; and, at noon, arrived at Oxford house, 
Dn Holey Lake. This was formerly a post of some 
consequence to the Hudson's Bay Company, but at 
present it exhibits unequivocal signs of decay. The 
Indians have, of late years, been gradually deserting 
the low or swampy country, and ascending the Sas- 
katchawan, where animals are more abundant. A few 
Crees were at this time encamped in front of the fort. 
They were suffering under the combined maladies of 
whooping-cough and measles, and looked miserably 
dejected. We endeavored in vain to prevail on one of 
them to accompany us for the purpose of k'lling clucks, 
wrHch were numerous, but too shy for our sportsmen. 
We had the satisfaction, however, of exchanging tho 



22 Thirty Years 



mouldy pemmican, obtained at Swampy Lake, for a 
better kind, and received, moreover, a small, but very 
acceptable, supply offish. Holey Lake, viewed from 
an eminence behind Oxford House, exhibits a pleasing 
prospect ; and its numerous islands, varying much in 
shape and elevation, contribute to break that uniform- 
ity of scenery which proves so palling to a traveler in 
this country. Trout of a great size, frequently ex- 
ceeding forty pounds weight, abound in this lake. 
We left Oxford House in the afternoon, and encamped 
on an island about eight miles distant, having come, 
during the day, nine miles and a quarter. 

At noon, on the 29th, after passing through the 
remainder of Holey Lake, we entered the Weepinap- 
annis, a narrow grassy river, which runs parallel to 
the lake for a considerable distance, and forms its 
South bank into a narrow peninsula. In the morning 
we arrived at the Swampy Portage, where two of the 
boats were broken against the rocks. The length of 
the day's voyage was nineteen miles and a half. 

In consequence of the accident yesterday evening, 
we were detained a considerable time this morning, 
until the boats were repaired, when w* set out, and 
after ascending a strong rapid, arrived at the Portage 
by John Moore's Island. Here tne river rushes with 
irresistible force through the channels formed by two 
rocky islands ; and we learnt, that last year a poor 



2V the Arctic Regions. 23 



man, lit fxdftUng a boat up one of these channels, was, 
by the broking of the line, precipitated into the 
stream and hurried down the cascade with such rapid- 
ity, that all efforts to save him were ineffectual. His 
body was afterwards found and interred near the 
spot. 

Oct. 1. — Hill Gates is the name imposed on a ro- 
mantic defile, whose rocky walls rising perpendicu- 
larly to the height of sixty or eighty feet, hem in the 
stream for three-quarters of a mile, in many places so 
narrowly, that there is a want of room to ply the 
oars. In passing through this chasm we were natur- 
ally led to contemplate the mighty but, probably, 
6low and gradual effects of the water in wearing down 
such vast masses of rock ; but in the midst of our 
speculations, the attention was excited anew to a 
grand and picturesque rapid, which, surrounded by the 
most wild and majestic scenery, terminated the defile. 
The brown fishing-eagle had built its nest on one of 
the projecting cliffs. In the course of the day we 
surmounted this and another dangerous portage, 
called the Upper and Lower Hill Gate Portages, 
crossed a small sheet of water, termed the White-Fall 
Lake, and entering the river of the same name, arrived 
at the White Fall about an hour after sunset, having 
come fourteen miles on a S. W. course. 

The whole of the 2d of October was spent in carry- 



24 Thirty Years 



ing the cargoes over a portage of thirteen hundred 
yards in length, and in launching the empty boats 
over three several ridges of rock which obstruct the 
channel and produce as many cascades. I shall long 
remember the rude and characteristic wildness of the 
scenery which surrounded these falls ; rocks piled on 
rocks hung in rude and shapeless masses over the 
agitated torrents which swept their bases, whilst the 
bright and variegated tints of the mosses and lichens, 
that covered the face of the cliffs, contrasting with 
the dark green of the pines, which crowned ■ their 
summits, added both beauty and grandeur to the 
general effect of the scene. Our two companions, 
Back and Hood, made accurate sketches of these falls. 
At this place we observed a conspicuous lop-stick, a 
kind of land-mark, which I have not hitherto noticed, 
notwithstanding its great use in pointing out the 
frequented routes. It is a pine-tree divested of its 
lower branches, and having only a small tuft at the 
top remaining. This operation is usually performed 
at the instance of some individual emulous of fame. 
He treats his companions with rum, and they in 
return, strip the tree of its branches, and ever after 
designate it by his name. 

In the afternoon, whilst on my way to superintend 
the operations of the men, a stratum of loose moss 
gave way under my feet, and I had the misfortune to 



In the Arctic Regions. 25 

el.;/ from the summit of a rock into the river, betwixt 
two of the falls. My attempts to regain the bank 
'wci j e, for a time, ineffectual, owing to the rc*,-ks within 
my reach having been worn smooth by the action of 
the water, but after I had been carried a considerable 
distance down the stream, I caught hold of a willow, 
by which I held until two gentlemen of the Hudson'! 
Bay Company came in a boat to my assistance. Th< 
only bad consequence of this accident was an injur} 
sustained by a very valuable chronometer, (No. 1733,) 
belonging to Daniel Moore, Esq., of Lincoln's Inn 
One of the gentlemen, to whom I delivered it imme- 
diately on landing, in his agitation let it fall, where!)} 
the minute-hand was broken, but the works were noi 
in the smallest degree injured, and the loss of tht 
hand was afterwards supplied. 

During the night the frost was severe, and at sun- 
use, on the 3d, the thermometer stood at 25°. Afte • 
leaving our encampment at the White Fall, wo 
passed through several small lakes connected with 
each other by narrow, deep, grassy streams, and at 
noon arrived at the Painted Stone. Numbers of 
musk-rats frequent these streams, and we observed, 
in the course of the morning, many of their mud- 
houses rising in a conical form to the height of two 
or three feet above the grass of the swamps in which 
they are built. 



26 Thirtg Tears. 

Having launched the boats over the rock, we com- 
menced the descent of the Echemamis. This small 
Ktream has its course through a morass, and in dry 
seasons its channel contains, instead of water, merely 
* foot or two of thin mud. On these occasions it is 
customary to build dams, that it may he rendered 
navigable by the accumulation of its waters. As the 
beavers perform this operation very effectually, en- 
deavors have been made to encourage them to breed 
in this place, but it has not hitherto been possible to 
restrain the Indians from killing that useful animal 
whenever they discover its retreats. On the present 
occasion there was no want of water, the principal 
impediment we experienced being from the narrowness 
of the channel, which permitted the willows of each 
bank to meet over our heads, and obstruct the men at 
the oars. After proceeding down the stream for some 
time, we came to a recently con trueted beaver-dam 
through which an opening was made sufficient to 
admit the boat to pass. We were assured that the 
beach would be closed by the industrious creature in a 
single night. We encamped about eight miles from 
the source of the river, having come during the day 
seventeen miles and a half. 

On the 4th we embarked amidst a heavy rain, and 
pursued our route aown the Echemamis. In many 
parts the morass, by which the river is nourished, and 



In the Arctic Regions. 27 

through which it flows, is intersected by ridges of 
rock which cross the channel, and require the boat to 
be lifted over them. In the afternoon we passed 
through a shallow piece of water overgrown with 
bulrushes, and hence named Hairy Lake ; and in the 
evening, encamped on the banks of Black water- Creek, 
by which this lake empties itself into Sea River ; 
having come during the day twenty miles and three- 
quarters. 

On the morning of the 5th, we entered Sea River, 
one of the many branches of Nelson River. It is 
about four hundred yards wide, and its waters are of 
a muddy white color. After ascending the stream for 
an hour or two, and passing through Carpenter's 
Lake, which is merely an expansion of the river to 
about a mile in breadth, we came to the Sea River 
Portage, where the boat was launched across a smooth 
rock, to avoid a fall of four or five feet. Re-embark- 
ing at the upper end of the portage, we ran before a 
fresh gale through the remainder of Sea River, the 
lower part of Play Greene Lake, and entering Little 
Jack River, landed and pitched our tents. Here there 
is a small log-hut, the residence of a fisherman, who 
supplies Norway House with trout and sturgeon. 
He gave us a few of these fish, which afforded an 
acceptable supper. The length of cur voyage this 
day was thirty- four miles. 



28 Thirty Years 



We left Norway House soon after noon of trie 7th, 
and the wind being favorable, sailed along the north- 
ern shore of Lake Winipeg the whole of the ensuing 
night ; and on the morning of the 8th landed on a 
narrow ridge of sand, which, running out twenty miles 
to the westward, separates Limestone Bay from the 
body of the Lake. When the wind blows hard from 
the southward, it is customary to carry boats across 
this isthmus, and to pull up under its lee. From 
Norwegian Point to Limestone Bay the shore consists 
of high clay cliffs against which the waves beat with 
much violence during strong southerly winds. When 
the wind blows from the land, and the waters of the 
lake are low, a narrow, sandy beach is uncovered, and 
affords a landing-place for boats. The shores of 
Limestone Bay are covered with small fragments of 
calcareous stones. During the night the Aurora Bo- 
realis was quick in its motions, and various and vivid 
in its colors. After breakfasting we re-embarked, and 
continued our voyage until three P. M., when a strong 
westerly wind arising, we were obliged to shelter our- 
selves on a small island, which lies near the extremity 
of the above-mentioned peninsula. This island is 
formed of a collection of small rolled pieces of lime- 
Btone, and was remembered by some of our boatmen 
to have been formerly covered with water. For the 
last ten or twelve years the waters of the lake have 



In the Arctic Beg ions. 29 



been low, but our information did not enable us to 
judge whether the decrease was merely casual, or going 
on continually, or periodical. The distance of this 
island from Norway House is thirty-eight miles and a 
half. 

The westerly winds detained us all the morning of 
the 9 th, but, at two P. M., the wind chopped round to 
the eastward : we immediately embarked, and the 
breeze afterwards freshening, we reached the mouth of 
the Saskatchawan at midnight, having run thirty-two 
miles 

Sunday, Oct. 10. — The whole of this day was oc- 
cupied in getting the boats from the mouth of the 
river to the foot of the grand rapid, a distance of two 
miles. There are several rapids in this short distance 
during which the river varies its breadth from five 
hundred yards to half a mile. Its channel is stony. 
At the grand rapid, the Saskatchawan forms a sudden 
bend, from south to east, and works its way through 
a narrow channel, deeply worn into the limestone 
strata. The stream, rushing with impetuous force 
over a rocky and uneven bottom, presents a sheet of 
foam, and seems to bear with impatience the straiten- 
ed confinement of its lofty banks. A flock of pelicans, 
and two or three brown fishing eagles, were fishing in 
its agitated waters, seemingly with great success. 
There is a good sturgeon fishery at the foot of the 



30 Thirty Years 



rapid. Several golden plovers, Canadian gros-beaks, 
cross-bills, wood-peckers, and pin-tailed grouse, were 
shot to-day ; and Mr. Back killed a small striped 
marmot. This beautiful little animal was busily em- 
ployed in carrying in its distended pouches the seeds of 
the American vetch to its winter hoards. 

The portage is eighteen hundreds yards long, and 
its western extremity was found to be in 53 deg. 08 
min. 25 sec. North latitude, and 99 deg. 28 min. 02 
see. West longitude. The route from Canada to the 
Athabasca joins that from York Factory at the mouth 
of the Saskatchawan, and we saw traces of a recent 
encampment of the Canadian voyagers. Our com- 
panions in the Hudson's Bay boats, dreading an attack 
from their rivals in trade, were on the alert at this 
place. They examined minutely the spot of encamp- 
ment, to form a judgment of the number of canoes 
that had preceded them ; and they advanced, armed, 
and with great caution, through the woods. Their 
fears, however, were fortunately, on this occasion, 
groundless. 

By noon, on the 12 th, the boats and their cargoes 
having been conveyed across the portage, we embark- 
ed and pursued our course. The Saskatchawan be- 
comes wider above the Grand Rapid, and the scenery 
improves. The banks are high, composed of white 
clay and limestone, and their summits are xichly 



In tlie Arctic Regions. 31 



clothed with, a variety of firs, poplars, birches, and 
willows. The current runs with great rapidity, and 
the channel is, in many places, intricate and dangerous, 
from broken ridges of rock jutting into the stream. 
We pitched our tents at the entrance of Cross Lake, 
having advanced only five miles and a half. 

Cross Lake is extensive, running towards the N. E., 
it is said, for forty miles. We crossed it at the nar- 
row part, and pulling through several winding chan- 
nels, formed by a group of islands, entered Cedar 
Lake, which, next to Lake Winneipeg, is the largest 
sheet of fresh water we had hitherto seen. Ducks 
and geese resort hither in immense flocks in the spring 
and autumn. These birds are now beginning to go ofl, 
owing to its muddy shores having become quite hard 
through the nightly frosts. At this place the Aurora 
Borealis was extremely brilliant in the night, its corus- 
cations darting, at limes, over the whole sky, and as- 
suming various prismatic tints, of which the violel 
and yellow were predominant. 

After pulling, on the 14th, seven miles and a quar- 
ter on the lake, a violent wind drove us for shelter to 
a small island, or rather a ridge of rolled stones, 
thrown up by the frequent storms which agitate thin 
lake. The weather did not moderate the whole day, 
and we were obliged to pass the night on this exposed 
spot. The delay, however, enabled us to obtain some 



32 Thirty Tears 



lunar observations. The wind having subsided, we 
left our resting-place the following morning, crossed 
;he remainder of the lake, and, in the afternoon, ar- 
•ived at Muddy Lake, which is very appropriately 
lamed, as it consists merely of a few channels, wind- 
'ng amongst extensive mud banks, which are overflow- 
ed during the spring floods. We landed at an Indian 
fcent, which contained two numerous families, amount- 
ing to thirty souls. These poor creatures were badly 
clothed, and reduced to a miserable condition by the 
ravages of the whooping-cough and measles. At the 
time of our arrival they were busy in preparing a 
sweating-house for the sick. This is a remedy, which 
they consider, with the addition of singing and drum- 
ming, to be the grand specific for all diseases. Our 
companions having obtained some geese, in exchange 
for rum and tobacco, we proceeded a few more miles 
and encamped on Devil's Drum Island, having come, 
during the day, twenty miles and a half. A second 
party of Indians were encamped on an adjoining 
island, a situation chosen for the purpose of killing 
geese and ducks. 

On the 16th we proceeded eighteen miles up the 
Saskatchewan. Its banks are low, covered with wil- 
lows, and lined with drift timber. The surrounding 
country is swampy, and intersected by the numerous 
arms of the river. After passing for twenty or thirty 



In the Arctic Regions. 33 

yards through the willow thicket on the hanks of the 
stream, we entered upon an extensive marsh, varied 
only hy a distant line of willows, which marks the 
course of a creek or branch of the river. The branch 
we navigated to-day is almost five hundred yards wide. 
The exhalations from the marshy soil produced a low 
fog, although the sky above was perfectly clear. In 
the course of the day we passed an Indian encamp- 
ment of three tents, whose inmates appeared to be in 
a still more miserable condition than those we saw 
yesterday. They had just finished the ceremony ol 
conjuration over some of their sick companions ; and 
a dog, which was recently killed as a sacrifice to some 
deity, was hanging to a tree, where it would be left (I 
was told) when they moved their encampment. 

We continued our voyage up the river, to the 20th, 
with little variation of scenery or incident, traveling 
in that time about thirty miles. The near approach 
of winter was marked by severe frosts, which continued 
all day, unless when the sun chanced to be unusually 
bright, and the geese and ducks were observed to take 
a southerly course in large flocks. On the morning of 
the 20th we came to a party of Indians, encamped 
behind the bank of the river, on the borders of a small 
marshy lake, for the purpose of killing water-fowl. 
Here we were gratified with the view of a very largo 

tent. Its length was about forty feet, its breadth 

2* 



34 Thirty Years 



eighteen, and its covering was moose deer leather, 
with apertures for the escape of tne smoke from the 
fires which were placed at each end ; a ledge of wood 
was placed on the ground on both sides of the whole 
length of the tent, within which were the sleeping 
places, arranged probably according to families ; and 
the drums and other instruments of enchantment were 
piled up in the centre. Amongst the Indians there 
were a great many half-breeds, who lead an Indian 
life. Governor Williams gave a dram and a piece of 
tobacco to each of the males of tne party. 

On the morning of the 21st, a heavy fall of snow 
took place, which lasted until two in the afternoon. 
In the evening we left the Saskatchawan, and entered 
the Little River, one of the two streams by which 
Pine Island Lake discharges its waters. We advanced 
to-day fourteen miles and a quarter. On the 22d, the 
weather was extremely cold and stormy, and we had 
to contend against a strong head wind.* The spray 
froze as it fell, and the oars wei-e so loaded with ice 
as to be almost unmanageable. The length of our 
voyage this day was eleven miles. 

The following morning was very cold ; we embarked 
at daylight, and pulled across a part of Pine Island 
Lake, about three miles and a half to Cumberland 
House. The margin of the iake was so encrusted 
with ice # that we had to break through a considerable 



In the Arctic Regions. 35 

space of it to approach the landing place. When we 
considered that this was the effect of only a few days' 
frost at the commencement of winter, we were con- 
vinced of the impracticability of advancing further by 
water this season, and, therefore, resolved on accepting 
Governor Williams's kind invitation to remain with 
him at this post. We immediately visited Mr. Con- 
nolly, the resident partner of the North- West Com- 
pany, and presented to him Mr. M'G-illivray's circular 
letter. He assured us that he should be most desir- 
ous to forward our progress by every means in his 
power, and we subsequently had ample proofs of his 
sincerity and kindness. The unexpected addition ot 
our party to the winter residents at this post, rendered 
an increase of apartments necessary ; and our men 
were immediately appointed to complete and arrange 
an unfinished building as speedily as possible. 

Nov. 8. — Some mild weather succeeded to the se- 
vere frosts we had at our arrival ; and the lake had 
not been entirely frozen before the 6th ; but this morn- 
ing the ice was sufficiently firm to admit of sledges 
crossing it. The dogs were harnessed at a very early 
hour, and the winter operations commenced by send- 
ing for a supply of fish from Swampy Rivei, where 
men had been stationed to collect it, just before the 
frost set in. Both men and dogs seemed to enjoy the 
change ; they started in full glee, and drove rapidly 



36 Thirty Years 



along. An Indian, who had come to the house on the 
preceding evening, to request some provision for his 
family, whom he represented to be in a state of star- 
varion, accompanied them. His party had been suf- 
fering greatly under the epidemic diseases of the 
whooping-cough and measles ; and the hunters were 
still in too debilitated a state to go out and provide 
them with meat. A supply was given to him, and 
the men were directed to bring his father, an old and 
faithful hunter, to the house, that he might have the 
comforts of nourishment and warmth. He was 
brought accordingly, but these attentions were una- 
vailing, as he died a few days afterwards. Two days 
before his death, I was surprised to observe him sit- 
ting for near three hours, in a piercingly sharp day, in 
the saw- pit, employed in gathering the dust, and 
throwing it by handfuls over his body, which was 
naked to the waist. As the man was in possession of 
his mental faculties, I conceived he was performing 
some devotional act preparatory to his departure, which 
tie felt approaching ; and, induced by the novelty of 
the incident, I went twice to observe him more close- 
ly ; but when he perceived that he was noticed, he 
immediately ceased his operation, hung down his head, 
and by his demeanor, intimated that he considered 
my appearance an intrusion. The residents at the fort 
could give me no information on the subject, and I 



In the Arctic Regions. 37 

could not learn that the Indians in general observe 
any particular ceremony on the approach of death. 

Nov. 15. — The sky had been overcast during .the 
last week ; the sun shone forth once only, and then 
not sufficiently for the purpose of obtaining observa- 
tions. Faint coruscations of the Aurora Borealis ap- 
peared one evening, but their presence did not in the 
least affect the electrometer nor the compass. The 
ice daily became thicker in the lake, and the frost had 
now nearly overpowered the rapid current of the Sask- 
atchawan Kiver ; indeed, parties of men who were sent 
from both the forts to search for the Indians, and pro- 
cure whatever skins and provisions they might have 
collected, crossed that stream this day on the ice ; the 
white partridges made their first appearance near to 
the house. These birds are considered as the infalli- 
ble harbingers of severe weather. 

Monday, Nov. 22. — The Saskatchawan, and eve* y 
other river, were now completely covered with ice, ex- 
cept a small stream near to the fort through which the 
current ran very powerfully. In the course of the 
week we removed into the house our men had been 
preparing for us since our arrival. We found it at 
first extremely cold, notwithstanding a good fire was 
kept in each apartment, and we frequently experi- 
enced the extremes of heat and cold on opposite sides 
of the body. ■-■- ■ ••■ " 



38 Thirty Years 



Nov. 24. — We this day obtained observations for 
the dip of the needle and intensity of the magnetic 
force in a spare room. The dip was 83° 9' 45", 
and the difference produced by reversing the face of 
the instrument, 13° 3' 6". When the needle was 
faced to the west, it hung nearly perpendicular. The 
Aurora Borealis was faintly visible for a short time 
last evening. Some Indians arrived in search of pro- 
vision, having been totally incapacitated from hunting 
by sickness ; the poor creatures looked miserably ill, 
and they represented their distress to have been ex- 
treme. Few recitals are more affecting than those of 
their sufferings during unfavorable seasons; and in 
bad situations for hunting and fishing. Many assu- 
rances have been given me that men and women are 
yet living who have been reduced to feed upon the 
bodies of their own family, to prevent actual starva- 
tion ; and a shocking case was cited to us of a woman 
who had been principal agent in the destruction of 
several persons, and amongst the number her husband 
and nearest relatives, in order to support life. 

Nov. 28.— The atmosphere had been clear every day 
during the last week, about the end of which snow 
fell, when the thermometer rose from 20° below to 
16° above zero. The Aurora Borealis was twice visi- 
ble, but faint on both occasions. Its appearance did 
not affect the electromster, nor could we perceive the 
compass to be disturbed. 



In the Arctic Regions. 39 



The men brought supplies of moose meat from the 
hunter's tent, which is pitched near the Basquiau 
Hill, at the distance of forty or fifty miles from the 
house, and from whence the greatest part of the meat 
is procured. The residents have to send nearly the 
same distance for their fish, and on this service horse- 
sledges are used. Nets are daily set in Pine Island 
Lake, which occasionally procure some fine sturgeon, 
tittameg and trout, but not more than sufficient to 
supply the officers' table. 

Dec. 1. — This day was so remarkably fine, that we 
procured another set of observations for the dip of the 
needle in the open air ; the instrument being placed 
firmly on a rock, the results gave 83° 14' 22". The 
change produced by reversing the face of the instrument 
was 12° 50' 55". 

There was a determined thaw during the last three 
days, which caused the Saskatchawan Eiver, and some 
parts of the lake, to break up, and rendered the tra- 
veling across either of them dangerous. On this ac- 
count the absence of Wilkes, one of our men, caused 
no small anxiety. He had incautiously undertaken 
the charge of conducting a sledge and dogs, in com- 
pany with a person, going to Swampy Kiver for fish. 
On their return, being unaccustomed to driving, he 
became fatigued, and seated himself on his sledge, in 
which situation his companion left him, presuming 



40 Thirty Years 



that lie would soon rise and hasten to follow his track 
He however returned safe in the morning, and report- 
ed that, foreseeing night would set in before he could 
get across the lake, he prudently retired into the 
woods before dark, where he remained until daylight ; 
when the men, who had been despatched to look for 
him, met him returning to the house, shivering with 
cold, he having been unprovided with the materials 
for lighting a fire ; which an experienced voyager never 
neglects to carry. 

We had mild weather until the 20th of December. 
On the 13th there had been a decided thaw, which 
caused the Saskatchawan, which had again frozen, to 
re-open, and the passage across it was interrupted for 
two days. We now received more agreeable accounts 
from the Indians, who are recovering strength, and 
beginning to hunt a little ; but it is generally feared 
that their spirits have been so much depressed by the 
loss of their children and relatives, that the season will 
be far advanced before they can be roused to any ex- 
ertion in searching for animals beyond what may be 
necessary for their own support. It is much to be. re- 
gretted that these poor men, during their long inter- 
course with Europeans, have not been taught how 
pernicious is the grief which produces total inactivity, 
and that they have not been furnished with any of the 
consolations which the Christian religion never fails to 



In the Ai^ctic Regions. 41 

afford. This, however, could hardly have been ex- 
pected from persons who have permitted their own off- 
spring, the half-casts, to remain io lamentable igno- 
rance on a subject of such vital importance. It is pro- 
bable, however, that an improvement will soon tak« 
place among the latter class, as Governor Williams 
proposes to make the children attend a Sunday school, 
and has already begun to have divine service perform- 
ed at his post. 

The conversations which I have had with the gen- 
tlemen in charge of these posts, convinced me of the 
necessity of proceeding during the winter into the 
Athabasca department, the residents of which are best 
acquainted with the nature and resources of the coun- 
try lying to the north of the Groat Slave Lake ; and 
from whence only guides, hunters, and interpreters 
can be procured. I had previously written to the 
partners of the North- West Company in that quarter, 
requesting their assistance in forwarding the Expedi- 
tion, and stating what we should require of them ; 
but, on reviewing the matter, and reflecting upon the 
accidents that might delay these letters on the road, 
I determined on proceeding to the Athabasca as soon 
as I possibly could, and communicated my intention 
to Governor Williams and Mr. Connolly, with a re- 
quest that I might be furnished, by the middle of Jan- 
uary, with the means of conveyance for thr« e persons, 



42 Thirty Tears 



intending that Mr. Back and Hepburn should accom- 
pany me, whilst Dr. Kichardson and Mr. Hood re- 
mained till the spring at Cumberland House. 

After the 20th December the weather became cold, 
the thermometer constantly below zero. Christmas-day 
was particularly stormy ; but the gale did not prevent 
the full enjoyment of the festivities which are annually 
yiven at Cumberland House on this day." All the 
men who had been despatched to different parts in 
search of provision or furs returned to the fort on the 
occasion, and were regaled with a substantial dinner 
and a dance in the evening. 

1820. The new year was ushered in by repeated 

January i. di scnar g e8 f musketry ; a ceremony which 
has been observed by the men of both the trading 
Companies for many years. Our party dined with Mr. 
Connolly, and were regaled with a beaver, which we 
found extremely delicate. In the evening his men 
were entertained with a dance, in which the Canadi- 
ans exhibited some grace and much agility ; and they 
contrived to infuse some portion of their activity and 
spirits into the steps of their female companions. The 
half-breed women are passionately fond of this amuse- 
ment, but a stranger would imagine the contrary on 
witnessing their apparent want of animation. On 
Buch occasions they affect a sobriety of demeanor 
which I understand to be the very opposite of their 
general character. 



In the Artie Regions. 43 



CHAPTER IV. 

aft i820. ' This day we set out from Cumberland House 
for Carlton House ; but previously to detailing the 
events of the journey, it may be proper to describe the 
necessary equipments of a winter traveler in this re- 
gion, which I cannot do better than by extracting the 
following brief, but accurate, account of it from Mr. 
Hood's journal : — 

" A snow-shoe is made of two light bars of wood, 
fastened together at their extremities, and projected 
into curves by transverse bars. The side bars have 
been so shaped by a frame, and dried before a fire, 
that the front part of the shoe turns up, like the prow 
of a boat, and the part behind terminates in an acute 
angle ; the spaces between the bars are filled up with 
a fine netting of leathern thongs, except that part be- 
hind the main bar, which is occupied by the feet ; the 
netting is there close and strong, and the foot is at- 
tached to the main bar by straps passing round the 
heel, but only fixing the toes, so that the heel rises 
after each step, and the tail of the shoe is dragged on 



44 Thirty Tears 



the snow. Between the main bar and another in front 
of it, a small space is left, permitting the toes to 
descend a little in the act of raising the heel to make 
the step forward, which prevents their extremities from 
chafing. The length of a snow-shoe is from four to six 
feet, and the breadth one foot and a half, or one foot 
and three-quarters, being adapted to the size of the 
wearer. The motion of walking in them is perfectly- 
natural, for one shoe is level with the snow, when the 
edge of the other is passing over it. It is not easy to 
use them among bushes, without frequent overthrows, 
nor to rise afterwards without help. Each shoe weighs 
about two pounds when unclogged with snow. The 
northern Indian snow-shoes differ a little from those 
of the southern Indians, having a greater curvature on 
the outside of each shoe ; one advantage of which is, 
that when the foot rises the over-balanced side 
descends and throws off the snow. All the superiority 
of European art has been unable to improve the native 
contrivance of this useful machine. 

" Sledges are made of two or three flat boards, 
curving upwards in front, and fastened together by 
transverse pieces of wood above. They are so thin 
that, if heavily laden, they bend with the inequalities 
of the surface over which they pass. The ordinary 
dog-sledges are eight or ten feet long, and very 
narrow, but the lading is secured to a lacing round 



In the Arctic Regions. 45 

the edges. The cariole used by the traders is merely 
a covering of leather for the lower part of the body, 
affixed to the common sledge, which is painted and 
ornamented according to the taste of the proprietor. 
Besides snow-shoes, each individual carries his blanket, 
hatchet, steel, flint, and tinder, and generally fire- 
arms/' 

, The general dress of the winter traveler is a capot, 
having a hood to put up under the fur cap in windy 
weather, or in the woods, to keep the snow from his 
neck ; leathern trowsers and Indian stockings, which 
are closed at the ankles, round the upper part of his 
moccasins, or Indian shoes, to prevent the snow from 
getting into them. Over these he wears a blanket, or 
leathern coat, which is secured by a belt round his 
waist, to w T hich his fire-bag, knife, and hatchet are 
suspended. 

Mr. Beck and I were accompanied by the seaman, 
John Hepburn ; we were provided with two carioles 
and two sledges ; and their drivers and dogs were 
furnished in equal proportions by the two Companies. 
Fifteen days' provision so completely filled the sledges, 
that it was with difficulty we found room for a small 
sextant, one suit of clothes, and three changes of 
linen, together with our bedding. Notwithstanding 
we thus restricted ourselves, and even loaded the 
carioles with part of the luggage, instead of embarking 



46 Thirty Years 



in them ourselves, we did not set out without 
considerable grumbling from the voyagers of both 
Companies, respecting the overlading of their dogs. 
However, we left the matter to be settled by our 
friends at the fort, who were more conversant with 
winter traveling than ourselves. Indeed, the loads 
appeared to us so great that we should have been 
inclined to listen to the complaints of the drivers. 
The weight usually placed upon a sledge, drawn by 
three dogs, cannot, at the commencement of a journey, 
be estimated at less than three hundred 'pounds, which, 
however, suffers a daily diminution from the con- 
sumption of provisions. The sledge itself weighs 
about thirty pounds. When the snow is hard frozen, 
or the track well trodden, the rate of traveling is 
about two miles and a half an hour, including rests, 
or about fifteen miles a day. If the snow is loose, 
the speed is necessarily much less and the fatigue 
greater. 

At eight in the morning of the 18th, we quitted the 
fort, and took leave of our hospitable friend, Governoi 
Williams, whose kindness and attention I shall evei 
remember with gratitude. Dr. Eichardson, Mr. Hood, 
and Mr. Connolly, accompanied us along the Sas- 
katchawan, until the snow became too deep for theii 
walking without snow-shoes. We then parted from 
our associates, with sincere regret at the prospect of a 



In the Arctic Regions. 47 

!ong separation. Being accompanied by Mr. Mac- 
kenzie, of the Hudson's Bay Company, who was going 
to Isle & la Crosse, with four sledges under his charge, 
we formed quite a procession, keeping in an Indian 
file, in the tract of the man who preceded the foremost 
dogs ; but, as the snow was deep, we proceeded 
slowly on the surface of the river, which is about three 
hundred and fifty yards wide, for the distance of six 
miles, which we went to-day. Its alluvial banks and 
islands are clothed with willows. At the place of our 
encampment we could scarcely find sufficient pine 
branches to floor " the hut," as the Orkney men term 
the place where travelers rest. Its preparation, how- 
ever, consists only in clearing away the snow to the 
ground, and covering that space with pine branches, 
over which the party spread their blankets and coats, 
and sleep in warmth and comfort, by keeping a good 
fire at their feet, without any other canopy than the 
heaven, even though the thermometer should be far 
below zero. 

The arrival at the place of encampment gives imme- 
diate occupation to every one of the party ; and it is 
not until the sleeping-place has been arranged, and a 
sufficiency of wood collected as fuel for the night, that 
the fire is allowed to be kindled. The dogs alone 
remain inactive during this busy scene, being kept 
harnessed to their burdens until the men have leisure 



48 Thirty Years 



to unstow the sledges, and hang upon the trees every 
species of provision out of the reach of these rapacious 
animals. We had ample experience, before morning, 
of the necessity of this precaution, as they contrived 
to steal a considerable part of our stores, almost from 
underneath Hepburn's head, notwithstanding their 
having been well-fed at supper. 

This evening we found the mercury of our ther- 
mometer had sunk into the bulk, and was frozen. It 
arose again into the tube on being held to the fire, 
but quickly re-descended into the bulb on being 
removed into the air ; we could not, therefore, ascer- 
tain by it the temperature of the atmosphere, either 
then or during our journey. The weather was per- 
fectly clear. 

Jan. 19. — We arose this morning after the enjoy- 
ment of a' sound and comfortable repose, and recom- 
menced our journey at sun-rise, but made slow progress 
through the deep snow. The task of beating the 
track for the dogs was so very fatiguing, that each of 
the men took the lead in turn, for an hour and a half. 
The scenery of the banks of the river improved as we 
advanced to-day ; some firs and poplars were inter- 
mixed with the willows. We passed through two 
creeks, formed by islands, and encamped on a pleasant 
spot on the north shore, having only made six miles 
and three-quarters actual distance. 



In the Arctic Regions. 49 

The next day we pursued our course along the 
river ; the dogs had the greatest difficulty in dragging 
their heavy burdens through the snow. We halted 
to refresh them at the foot of Sturgeon River, and 
obtained the latitude 53° 51' 41" N. This is a small 
stream, which issues from a neighboring lake. We 
encamped near to Musquito Point, having walked 
about nine miles. The termination of the day's 
journey was a great relief to me, who had been 
suffering during the greater part of it, in consequence 
of my feet having been galled by the snow-shoes ; 
this, however, is an evil which few escape on their 
initiation to winter traveling. It excites no pity 
from the more experienced companions of the journey, 
who travel on as fast as they can, regardless of the 
pain of the sufferer. 

Mr. Isbester, and an Orkney man, joined us from 
Cumberland House, and brought some pemmican 
which we had left behind ; a supply which was sea- 
sonable after our recent loss. The general occupation 
of Mr. Isbester during the winter, is to follow or find 
out the Indians, and collect their furs, and his present 
journey will appear adventurous to persons accustomed 
to the certainty of traveling on a well-known road. 
He is going in search of a band of Indians, of whom 
no information had been received since last October, 
and his onlv euide for find in a- then) wv their ?jro»iiV? 



50 Thirty Years 



to hunt in a certain quarter ; but he looked at the 
jaunt with indifference, and calculated on meeting 
them in six or seven days, for which time only he had 
provision. Few persons in this country suffer more 
from want of food than those occasionally do who are 
employed on this service. They are furnished with a 
sufficiency of provision to serve until they reach the 
part where the Indians are expected to be ; but it 
frequently occurs that, on their arrival at the spot, 
they have gone elsewhere, and that a recent fall of 
snow has hidden their track, in which case the voyagers 
have to wander about in search of them ; and it often 
happens, when they succeed in finding the Indians, 
that they are unprovided with meat. Mr. Isbester 
had been placed in this distressing situation only a 
few weeks ago, and passed four days without either 
himself or his dogs tasting food. At length, when he 
had determined on killing one of the dogs to satisfy his 
hunger, he happily met with a beaten track, which 
.ed him to some Indian lodges, where he obtained a 
eupply of food. 

The morning of *Ih> 21st was cold, but pleasant for 
traveling. We lefo >ijr. Isbester and his companion, 
and crossed the penib, mm, of Musquito Point, to avoid 
a detour of several miles which the river makes. 
Though we put up at an early hour, we gained eleven 
miles this day. Our encampment was at the lower 



In the Arctic Regions. 51 

extremity of Tobin's Falls. The snow being less deep 
on the rough ice which enclosed this rapid, we pro- 
ceeded, on the 22d, at a quicker pace than usual, 
though at the expense of great suffering to Mr. Back, 
myself, and Hepburn, all our feet being much galled. 
After passing Tobin's Falls, the river expands to the 
breadth of five hundred yards, and its banks are well 
wooded with pines, poplars, birch, and willows. Many 
tracks of moose-deer and wolves were observed near 
the encampment. 

On the 23d the sky was generally overcast, and there 
were several snow showers. We saw two wolves and 
some foxes cross the river in the course of the day, 
and passed many tracks of the moose and red deer. 
Soon after we had encamped the snow fell heavily, 
which was an advantage to us after we had retired to 
rest, by its affording an additional covering to our 
blankets. The next morning, whilst at breakfast, two 
men arrived from Carlton on their way to Cumberland. 
Having the benefit of their track, we were, to our 
great joy, able to get on at a quick pace without snow- 
shoes. My only regret was, that the party proceeded 
too fast to allow Mr. Black's halting occasionally, to 
note the bearings of the points, and delineate the 
course of the river,* without being left behind. As 

* This was afterwards done by Dr. Richardson during a voyage to Carlton 
In the spring 






52 Thirty Years 

the provisions were getting short, I could not, there- 
fore, with propriety, cheek the progress hy interrupt- 
ing the party ; and, indeed, it appeared to me less 
necessary, as I understood the river had been carefully 
surveyed. In the afternoon, we had to resume the in- 
cumbrance of the snow-shoes, and to pass over a rug- 
ged part where the ice had been piled over a collection 
of stones. The tracks of animals were very abundant 
on the river, particularly near the remains of an old 
establishment, called the Lower Nippeween. 

So much snow had fallen on the night of the 24th, 
that the track we intended to follow was completely 
covered, and our march to-day was very fatiguing. 
We passed the remains of two red-deer, lying at the 
basis of perpendicular cliffs, from the summits of which 
they had, probably, been forced by the wolves. These 
veracious animals, who are inferior in speed to the 
moose and red-deer, are said frequently to have re- 
course to this expedient in places where extensive 
plains are bounded by precipitous cliffs. Whilst the 
deer are quietly grazing, the wolves assemble in great 
numbers, and, forming a crescent, creep slowly towards 
the herd so as not to alarm them much at first, but 
when they perceive that they have fairly hemmed in 
the unsuspecting creatures, and cut off their retreat 
across the plain, they move more quickly, and with 
hideous yells terrify their prey and urge them to flight 



In the Arctic Begions. 53 



by the only open way, which is that towards the pre- 
cipice ; appearing to know, that wb*m *l\e herd is once 
at full speed, it is easily driven over the diff, the rear- 
most urging on those that are before. The wolves 
then descend at their leisure, and feast on the mangled 
carcasses. One of these ferocious animab pawed close 
to the person who was beating the track, but did not 
offer any violence. We encamped at sunses, after 
walking thirteen miles. 

On the 26th, we were rejoiced at passing the half- 
way point, between Cumberland and Carlton. The 
scenery of the river was less agreeable beyond this 
point, as there was a scarcity of wood. One of our 
men was despatched after a red-deer that appeared on 
the bank. He contrived to approach near enough to 
fire twice, though without success, before the animal 
moved away. After a fatiguing march of seventeen 
miles, we put up at the upper Nippeween, a deserted 
establishment ; and performed the comfortable opera- 
tions of shaving and washing for the first time since 
our departure from Cumberland, the weather having 
been hitherto too severe. We passed an uncomfort- 
able and sleepless night, and agreed next morning to 
encamp in future in the open air, as preferable to the 
imperfect shelter of a deserted house without doors or 
windows. 

The morning was extremely cold, but fortunately 



54 Thirty Years 



the wind was light, which prevented our feeling it se- 
verely ; experience indeed had taught us that the sen- 
sation of cold depends less upon the state of temper- 
iture, than the force of wind. An attempt was made 
u obtain the latitude, which failed in consequence of 
the screw, which adjusts the telescope of the sextant, 
being immovably fixed, from the moisture upon it 
having frozen. The instrument could not be replaced 
in its case before the ice was thawed by the fire in the 
evening. 

Ic the course of the day we passed the confluence 
of the south branch of the Saskatchawan, which rises 
from the rocky mountains near the sources of the 
northern branch of the Missouri. At Coles Falls, 
which commences a short distance from the branch, we 
found the surface of the ice very uneven, and many 
spots of open water. 

We passed the ruins of an establishment, which the 
traders had been compelled to abandon, in consequence 
of the intractable conduct and pilfering habits of the 
Assineboine Indians ; and we learnt that all the resi- 
dents at a post on the south branch, bad been cut off 
by the same tribe some years ago. We traveled 
twelve miles to-day. The wolves serenaded us through 
the night with a chorus of their agreeable howling, 
but none of them ventured near the encampment. 
Mr. Back's repose was disturbed by a more serious 



In the Arctic Regions. 55 

jj ■ - 

evil ; his buffalo robe caught fire, and the shoes ou 
his feet, being contracted by the heat, gave him such 
pain, that he jumped up in the cold, and ran into the 
snow as the only means of obtaining relief. 

On the 28th we had a strong and piercing wind 
from N. W. in our faces, and much snow-drift ; we 
were compelled to walk as quick as we could, and to 
keep constantly rubbing the exposed parts of the 
skin, to prevent their being frozen, bat some of the 
party suffered in spite of every precaution. We des- 
cried three red-deer on the banks of the river, and 
were about to send the best marksmen after them, 
when they espied the party and ran away. A supply 
of meat would have been very seasonable, as the men's 
provision became scanty, and the dogs were without 
food, except a little burnt leather. Owing to the 
scarcity of wood, we had to walk until a late hour, 
before a good spot for an encampment could be found, 
and had then come only eleven miles. The night was 
miserably cold ; our tea froze in the tin pots before 
we could drink it, and even a mixture of spirits and 
water became quite thick by congelation ; yet, after 
we lay down to rest, we felt no inconvenience, and 
heeded not the wolves, though they were howling 
within view. 

The 29 th was also very cold, until the sun burst 
forth, when the traveling became pleasant. The 



56 Thirty Years 

banks of the river are very scantily supplied with 
wood through the part we passed to-day. A long 
track on the south shore, called Holms Plains, is des- 
titute of anything like a tree, and the opposite bank 
has only stunted willows ; but after walking sixteen 
miles, we came to a spot better wooded, and encamp- 
ed opposite to a remarkable place, called by the voya- 
gers u The Neck of Land." 

On the thirtieth we directed our course round The 
Neck of Land, which is well clothed with pines and 
rirs ; though the opposite or western bank is nearly 
destitute of wood. This contrast between the two 
banks continued until we reached the commencement 
of what our companions called the barren grounds, 
when both the banks were alike bare. Vast plains 
extend behind the southern bank, which afford excel- 
lent pasturage for the buffalo, or other grazing animals. 
En the evening we saw a herd of the former, but could 
not get near to them. After walking fifteen miles we 
encamped. The men's provision having been entirely 
expended last night, we shared our small stock with 
them. The poor dogs had been toiling some days on 
the most scanty fare ; their rapacity, in consequence, 
was unbounded ; they forced open a deal box, contain- 
ing tea, &c, to get at a small piece of meat which had 
been incautiously placed in it. 

As soon as daylight permitted, the party commenc- 



In the Arctic Regions. 57 



ed their march, in the expectation of reaching Carlton 
House to breakfast, but we did not arrive until noon, 
although the track was good. We were received by 
Mr. Prudens, the gentleman in charge of the post, 
with that friendly attention which Governor Williams' 
circular was calculated to insure at every station ; and 
were soon afterwards regaled with a substantial dish 
of buffalo steaks, which would have been thought ex- 
cellent under any circumstances, but were particular- 
ly relished by us, though eaten without either bread 
or vegetables, after our traveling fare of dried meat 
and pemmican. After this repast' we had the com- 
fort of chansrin^ our traveling dresses, which had been 
worn for fourteen days. This was a gratification which 
can only be truly estimated by those who may have 
been placed under similar circumstances. 

Feb. 8. — Having recovered from the swellings and 
pains which our late march from Cumberland had oc- 
casioned, we prepared for the commencement of our 
»ourney to Isle d la Crosse, and requisitions were made 
on both the establishments for the means of convey- 
ance, and the necessary supply of provisions for the 
party, which was readily furnished. On the 9th, the 
carioles and sledges were loaded, and sent off after 
breakfast ; but Mr. Back and I remained till the after- 
noon, as Mr. Prudens had offered that his horses should 
convey us to the encamnment. At 3 P.M. we parted 



58 Thirty Years 

from our kind host, and in passing through the gate 
were honored with a salute of musketry. After riding 
six miles, we joined the men at their encampment, 
which was made under the shelter of a few poplars. 
The dogs had been so much fatigued in wading 
through the very deep snow with their heavy burdens, 
having to drag upwards of ninety pounds weight each, 
that they could get no farther. Soon after our arrival 
the snow began to fall heavily, and it continued 
through the greater part of the night. 

Our next day's march was therefore particularly te- 
dious, the snow being deep, and the route lying across 
an unvarying level, destitute of wood, except one 
small cluster of willows. In the afternoon we reached 
the end of the plain, and came to an elevation, on 
which poplars, willows, and some pines grew, where 
we encamped, having traveled ten miles. We crossed 
three small lakes, two of fresh water, and one of salt, 
near the latter of which Ave encamped, and were, in 
consequence, obliged to use for our tea, water made 
from snow, which has always a disagreeable taste. 

We had scarcely ascended the hill on the following 
morning, when a large herd of red deer was perceived 
grazing at a little distance ; and, though we were 
amply supplied with provision, our Canadian compan- 
ions could not resist the temptation of endeavoring to 
add to our stock. A half-breed hunter was thereforo 



In the Arctic Begions. - 59 

isent after them. He succeeded in wounding one, "but 
not so as to prevent its running off with the herd, in 
a direction wide of our course. A couple of rabbits 
and a brace of wood partridges were shot in the after- 
noon. There was an agreeable variety of hill and dale in 
the scenery we passed through to-day ; and sufficient 
wood for ornament, but not enough to crowd the pic- 
ture. The valleys were intersected by several small 
lakes and pools, whose snowy covering was happily 
contrasted with the dark green of the pine trees which 
surrounded them. After ascending a moderately high 
hill by a winding path through a close wood, we 
opened suddenly upon Lake Iroquois, and had a full 
view of its picturesque shores. We crossed it and en- 
camped. 

Though the sky was cloudless, yet the weather was 
warm. We had the gratification of finding a beaten 
track soon after we started on the morning of the 12th, 
and were thus enabled to walk briskly. We crossed 
at least twenty hills, and found a small lake or pool 
at the foot of each. The destructive ravages of fire 
were visible during the greater part of the day. The 
.only wood we saw for miles together consisted of pine 
trees, stript of their branches and bark by this element : 
in other parts poplars alone were growing, which we 
have remarked invariably to succeed the pine after a 
conflagration. We walked twenty miles to-day, but 
the direct distance was only sixteen miles. 



60 Thirty Years 



The remains of an Indian hut were found in a deep 
glen, and close to it was placed a pile of wood, which 
our companions supposed to cover a deposit of provi- 
sion. Our Canadian voyagers, induced by an insatia- 
ble desire of procuring food, proceeded to remove the 
upper pieces, and examine its contents ; when to their 
surprise, they found the body of a female, clothed in 
leather, which appeared to have been recently placed 
there. Her former garments, the materials for mak- 
ing a fire, a fishing line, a hatchet, and a bark dish, 
were laid beside the corpse. The wood was carefully 
replaced. A small owl, perched on a tree near the 
spot, called forth many singular remarks from our 
companions, as to its being a good or bad omen. 

We walked the whole of the 13th over flat meadow 
land, which is much resorted to by the buffalo at all 
seasons. We saw some herds, but our hunters were 
too unskilful to get within shot. In the afternoon we 
reached Stinking Lake, which is nearly of an oval 
form. Its shores are very low and swampy, to which 
circumstances, and not to the bad quality of the 
waters, it owes its Indian name. Our observations 
place its western part in latitude 53° 25' 24" N., 
longitude 107° 18' 58" W., variation 20° 32' 10" E. 

After a march of fifteen miles and a half, we en- 
camped among a few pines, at the only spot at which 
we saw sufficient wood for making our fire during the 



In th* Arctic Regions. 61 

day. The next morning, about an hour after we had 
commenced our march, we came upon a beaten track, 
and perceived recent marks of snow-shoes. In a short 
time an Iroquois joined us, who was residing with a 
party of Cree Indians, to secure the meat and furs 
they should collect, for the North- West Company. 
He accompanied us as far as the stage on which his 
meat was placed, and then gave us a very pressing in- 
vitation to halt for the day and partake of his fare ; 
which, as the hour was too early, we declined, much 
to the annoyance of our Canadian companions, who 
had been cherishing the prospect of indulging their 
amazing appetites at this well-furnished store, ever 
since the man had been with us. He gave them, 
however, a small supply previous to our parting. The 
route now crossed some ranges of hills, on which fir, 
birch, and poplar, grew so thickly, that we had much 
difficulty in getting the sledges through the narrow 
pathway between them. In the evening we descend- 
ed from the elevated ground, crossed three swampy 
meadows, and encamped at their northern extremity, 
within a cluster of large pine-trees, the branches of 
which were elegantly decorated with abundance of a 
greenish yellow lichen. Our march was ten miles. 
The weather was very mild, almost too warm for the 
exercise we were taking. 

We had a strong gale from the N. W. during the 



G2 Thirty Years 



night, which subsided as the morning opened. One 
of the sledges had been so much broken yesterday 
amongst the trees, that we had to divide its cargo 
among the others. We started after this had bee 
arranged, and rinding almost immediately a firm track, 
we soon arrived at some Indian lodges to which it led. 
The inhabitants were Crees, belonging to the postd on 
the Saskatchawan, from whence they had come to hunt 
beaver. We made but a short stay, and proceeded 
through a Swamp to Pelican Lake. Our view to the 
right was bounded by a range of lofty hills, which ex- 
tended for several miles in a north and south di- 
rection, which, it may be remarked, has been that of 
all the hilly land we have passed since quitting the, 
plain. 

Pelican Lake is of an irregular form, about six miles 
from east to west, and eight from north to south ; it 
decreases to the breadth of a mile towaids the north- 
ern extremity, and is there terminated by a creek. 
We went up this creek for a short distance, and then 
struck into the woods, and encamped among a cluster 
of the firs, which the Canadians term cypres (pinu.t 
inops) ; having come fourteen miles and a half. 

Feb. 16. — Shortly after commencing the journey to- 
day, we met an Indian and his family who had come 
from the houses at Green Lake ; they informed us 
the track was well beaten the whole way. We, there- 



In the Arctic Regions. 63 



fore, put forth our utmost speed in the hope of reach- 
ing them by night ; but were disappointed, and had 
to halt at dark, about twelve miles from them, in a 
fisherman's hut, which was unoccupied. Freqnen' 
howers of snow fell during the day, and the atm<>- 
phere was thick and gloomy. 

We started at an early hour the following morning 
and reached the Hudson's Bay Company's post tn 
breakfast, and were received very kindly by Mr. Mac- 
Farlane, the gentleman in charge. The other estab- 
lishment, situated on the opposite side of the river, 
was under the direction of Mr. Dougal Cameron, one 
of the partners of the North- West Company, on whom 
Mr. Back and I called soon after our arrival, and were 
honored with a salute of musketry. 

These establishments are small, but said to be well 
situated for the procuring of furs ; as the numerous 
creeks in their vicinity are much resorted to by the 
beaver, otter, and musquash. The residents usually 
obtain a superabundant supply of provision. This 
season, however, they have barely had sufficient fbr 
their own support, owing to the epidemic which has 
incapacitated the Indians for hunting. The Green 
Lake lies nearly north and south, is eighteen miles in 
length, and does not exceed one mile and a half of 
breadth in any part. The water is deep, and it is in 
consequence one of the last lakes in the country that 



64 Thirty Years 

is frozen. Excellent tittameg and trout are caught in 
it from March to December, but after that time most 
of the fish remove to some larger lake. 

We remained two days, awaiting the return of some 
men who had been sent to the Indian lodges for meat, 
and who were to go on with us. Mr. Back and I did 
not need this rest, having completely surmounted the 
pain which the walking in snow-shoes had occasioned. 
We dined twice with Mr. Cameron, and received from 
him many useful suggestions respecting our future 
operations. This gentleman having informed us that 
provisions would, probably, be very scarce next spring 
in the Athabasca department, in consequence of the 
sickness of the Indians during the hunting season, un- 
dertook at my request to cause a supply of pemmi- 
can to be conveyed from the Saskatchawan to Isle a 
la Crosse for our use during the winter, and I wrote 
to apprize Dr. Kichardson and Mr. Hood, that they 
would find it at the latter post when they passed ; 
and also to desire them to bring as much as the canoes 
would stow from Cumberland. 

The atmosphere was clear and cold during our stay ; 
observations were obtained at the Hudson Bay fort, 
lat. 54° 16' 10" N., long. 107° 29' 52" W., var. 22° 
6' 36" E. 

Feb. 20. — Having been equipped with carioles, 
eledges, and provisions, from the two posts, we thig 



In the Arctic Regions. 65 

day recommenced oar journey, and were much amused 
by the novelty of the salute given at our departure, 
the guns being principally fired by the half-breed wo- 
men in the absence of the men. Our course was di- 
rected to the end of the lake, and for a short distance 
along a small river ; we then crossed the woods to the 
Beaver River, which we found to be narrow and very 
serpentine, having moderately high banks. We en- 
camped about one mile and a half further up among 
poplars. The next day we proceeded along the river ; 
it was winding, and about two hundred yards broad. 
We passed the mouths of two rivers whose waters it 
receives ; the latter one, we were" informed, is a chan- 
nel by which the Indians go to the Lesser Slave Lake. 
The banks of the river became higher as we advanced, 
and were furnished with pines, poplars, and willows. 

Though the weather was very cold, we traveled more 
comfortably than at any preceding time since our de- 
parture from Cumberland, as we were enabled, by 
having light carioles, to ride nearly the whole day, 
and to be warmly covered up with a buffalo robe. 
Mr. M'Leod, of the North-West Company, joined us. 
He had kindly brought some things from Green Lake, 
which our sledges could not carry. Pursuing our 
route along the river, we reached at an early hour the 
upper extremity of the " Grand Rapid/' where the ice 
was so rough that the carioles and sledges had to be 



66 Thirty Years 



conveyed across a point of land. Soon after noon we 
left the river, inclining N. E., and directed our course 
N. W., until we reached Long Lake, and encamped at 
irs northern extremity, having come twenty- three 
miles. This lake is about fourteen miles long, and 
ifrom three-quarters to one mile and a half broad ; its 
shores and islands low, but well wooded. There were 
frequent snow-showers during the day. 

Feb. 23. — The night was very stormy, but the wind 
became more moderate in the morning. We passed 
to-day through several nameless lakes and swamps be- 
fore we came to Train Lake, which received its name 
from being the place where the traders procured the 
birch to make the sledges, or traineaux ; but this 
wood has been all used, and there only remain pines 
and a few poplars. We met some sledges laden with 
fish, kindly sent to meet us by Mr. Clark, of the Hud- 
son's Bay Company, directly he heard of our approach. 
Towards the evening the weather became much more 
unpleasant; we were exposed to a piercingly cold 
wind, and much snow-drift, in traversing Isle £ la 
'Crosse Lake ; we were, therefore, highly pleased at 
u'liing the Hudson's Bay House by six P. M. We 
iv received in the most friendly manner by Mr. 
Clark, and honored by volleys of musketry on ourar- 
ival. Similar marks of attention were shewn to us 
on the following day by Mr. Bethune, the partner in 



In the Arctic Regions. 67 

charge of the North- West Company's fort. I found 
here the letters which I had addressed to the partners 
of the North- West Company, in the Athabasca, from 
Cumberland, in November last. This circumstance 
convinced us of the necessity of our present journey. 

These establishments are situated on the southern 
side of the lake, and close to each other. They are 
forts of considerable importance, being placed at a 
point of communication with the English River, the 
Athabasca, and Columbia Districts. The country 
around them is low, and intersected with water, and 
was formerly much frequented by beavers and otters, 
which, however, have been so much hunted by the 
Indians, that their number is greatly decreased. The 
Indians frequenting these forts are the Crees and some 
Chipewyans ; they scarcely ever come except in the 
spring and autumn ; in the former season to biing 
their winter's collection of furs, and in the latter to get 
the stores they require. 

Three Chipewyan lads came in during our stay, to 
report what furs the band to which they belonged had 
collected, and to desire they might be sent for ; the 
Indians having declined bringing either furs or meat 
themselves, since the opposition between the Companies 
commenced. Mr. Back drew the portrait of one of the 
boys. 

Isle d la Crosse Lake receives its name from an island 



68 Thirty Years 



situated near the forts, on which the Indians formerly 
assembled annually to amuse themselves at the game 
of the Cross. It is justly celebrated for abundance of 
the finest tittameg, which weigh from five to fifteen 
pounds. The residents live principally upon this most 
delicious fish, which fortunately can be eaten a long 
time without producing any disrelish. They are plen- 
tifully caught with nets throughout the year, except 
for two or three months. 

March 4. — We witnessed the Aurora Borealis very 
brilliant, for the second time since our departure from 
Cumberland. A winter encampment is not a favor- 
able situation for viewing this phenomenon, as the 
trees in general hide the sky. Arrangements had been 
made for recommencing our journey to-day, but the 
wind was stormy, and the snow had drifted too much 
for traveling with comfort ; we therefore stayed and 
dined with Mr. Bethune, who promised to render every 
assistance in getting pemmican conveyed to us from 
the Saskatchawan, to be in readiness for our canoes 
when they might arrive in the spring ; Mr. Clark has 
also engaged to procure six bags for us, and to furnish 
our canoes with any other supplies which may be 
wanted, and can be spared from his post, and to con- 
tribute his aid in forwarding the pemmican to the 
Athabasca, if our canoes cannot carry it all. 

I feel greatly indebted to Mr. Clark, for much val- 



In the Artie Rtgions. 69 

liable information respecting the country and the In- 
dians residing to the north of the Slave Lake, and for 
furnishing me with a list of stores he supposed we 
should require. This gentleman had resided somo 
years on the Mackensie's River, and had been once so 
far towards its mouth as to meet the Esquimaux in 
great numbers. But they assumed such a hostile at- 
titude, that he deemed it unadvisable to attempt open- 
ing any communication with them, and retreated as 
speedily as he could. 

The observations we obtained here shewed that the 
chronometers had varied their rates a little, in conse- 
quence of the jolting of the carioles in which we rode ; 
but their errors and rates were ascertained previous to 
our departure. We observed the position of this fort 
to be latitude 55° 25' 35" N., longitude 107° 51' 00" 
W., by lunars reduced back from Fort Chipewyan, 
variation 22° 15' 4S" W., dip 84° 13' 35" 

March 5. — We recommenced our journey this morn- 
ing, having been supplied with the means of convey- 
ance by both the companies in equal proportions. Mr. 
Olark accompanied us with the intention of going as 
far as the boundary of his district. This gentleman 
was an experienced winter traveler, and we derived 
much benefit from his suggestions ; he caused the 
men to arrange the encampment with more attention 
to comfort and shelter than our former companions had 



70 Thirty Years 



done. After marching eighteen miles we \ ut up on 
Gravel Point, in the Deep Eiver. 

At nine the ne.it morning, we came to the com- 
mencement of Clear Lake. We crossed its southern 
extremes, and then went over a point of land to Buf- 
falo Lake, and encamped after traveling twenty-six 
miles. After supper we were entertained until mid- 
night with paddling songs, by our Canadians, who re- 
quired very little stimulus beside their natural vivac- 
ity, to afford us this diversion. The next morning we 
arrived at the establishments which are situated on the 
western side of the lake, near to a small stream, called 
the Beaver River. They were small log buildings, 
hastily erected last October, for the convenience of the 
Indians who hunt in the vicinity. Mr. MacMurray, 
a partner in the N. W. Company, having sent to Isle 
a la Crosse an invitation to Mr. Back and me, our 
carioles were driven to his post, and we experienced 
the kindest reception. These posts are frequented by 
only a few Indians, Crees and Chipewyans. The 
country round is not sufficiently stocked with animals 
to afford support to many families, and the traders al- 
most entirely subsist on fish caught in the autumn, 
prior to the lake being frozen. The water being shal- 
low, the fish remove to a deeper part, as soon as the 
lake is covered with ice. The Aurora Borealis was 
brilliantly displayed on both the nights we remained 



In the Arctic Regions. 71 

here, but particularly on the 7th, when its appearances 
were most diversified, and the motion extremely rapid. 
Its coruscations occasionally concealed from sight stars 
of the first magnitude in passing over them, at other 
times these were faintly discerned through them; 
once I perceived a stream of light to illumine the 
under surface of some clouds as it passed along. 
There was no perceptible noise. 

Mr. MacMurray gave a dance to his voyagers and 
the half breed women ; this is a treat which they ex- 
pect on the arrival of any stranger at the post. 

We were presented by this gentleman, with the 
valuable skin of a black fox, which he had entrapped 
some days before our arrival ; it was forwarded to 
England with other specimens. 

Our observations place the North- West Company's 
house in latitude 55° 53' 00" K, longitude 108° 51' 
10" W. ; variation 22° 33' 22" E. 

The shores of Buffalo Lake are of moderate height, 
and well wooded, but immediately beyond the bank 
the country is very swampy, and intersected with 
water in every direction. At some distance from the 
western side there is a conspicuous hill, which we hail- 
ed with much pleasure, as being the first interruption 
to the tedious uniform scene we had for some time 
passed through. 

On the 10th we recommenced our journey after 



72 Thirty Years 



breakfast and traveled quickly, as we had the advan- 
tage of a well beaten track. At the end of eighteen 
miles we entered upon the river " Loche," which has 
a serpentine course, and is confined between alluvial 
banks that support stunted willows and a few pines ; 
we encamped about three miles further on ; and in 
the course of the next day's march perceived several 
holes in the ice, and many unsafe places for the 
sledges. Our companions said the ice of this river is 
always in the same insecure state, even during the 
most severe winter, which they attribute to warm 
springs. Quitting the river we crossed a portage and 
came upon the Methye Lake, and soon afterwards ar- 
rived at the trading posts situated on the western side 
of it. These were perfect huts, which had been hastily 
built after the commencement of the last winter. 
We here saw two hunters who were Chipewyan half- 
breeds, and made many inquiries of them respecting 
the countries we expected to visit, but we found them 
quite ignorant of every part beyond the Athabasca 
Lake. They spoke of Mr. Hearne and of his compan- 
ion Matonnabee, but did not add to our stock of in- 
formation respecting that journey. It had happened 
before their birth, but they remembered the expedi- 
tion of Sir Alexander Mackenzie towards the sea. 

This is a picturesque lake, about ten miles long and 
six broad, and receives its name from a snecies of fish 



In the Arctic Regions. 73 

caught in it. This fish, the methye, is not much es- 
teemed ; the residents never eat any part but the liver 
except through necessity, the dogs dislike even that. 
The tittameg and trout are also caught in the fall of 
the year. 

On the 13th we renewed our journey, and parted 
from Mr. Clark, to whom we were much obliged foi 
his hospitality and kindness. We soon reached the 
Methye Portage, and had a very pleasant ride across 
it in our carioles. The track was good, and led 
through groups of pines, so happily placed that it 
would not have required a great stretch of imagina- 
tion to fancy ourselves driving through a well arran- 
ged park. We had now to cross a small lake, and 
then gradually ascended hills beyond it, until we ar- 
rived at the summit of a lofty chain of mountains, 
commanding the most picturesque and romantic pros- 
pect we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges of 
high hills run parallel to each, other for several miles, 
until the faint blue haze hides their particular charac- 
ters, when they slightly change their course, and are 
lost to the view. The space between them is occu- 
pied by nearly a level plain, through which a river 
pursues a meandering course, and receives supplies 
from the creeks and rills issuing from the mountains 
on each side. The prospect was delightful even amid 

the snow, and though marked with all the cheerless 

4 



74 Thirty Years 



characters of winter ; how much more charming must 
it be when the trees are in leaf, and the ground is ar- 
rayed in summer verdure ! Some faint idea of the 
diiference was conveyed to my mind by witnessing the 
effect of the departing rays of a brilliant sun. The 
distant prospect, however, is surpassed in grandeur by 
the wild scenery which appeared immediately below 
our feet. There the eye penetrates into vast ravines 
from two to three hundred feet in depth, that are 
clothed with trees, and lie on either side of the nar- 
•ow pathway descending to the river over eight suc- 
cessive ridges of hills. At one spot, termed the Cocks- 
comb, the passenger stands insulated as it were on a 
small slip, where a false step might precipitate him 
into the glen. From this place Mr. Back took an in- 
teresting and accurate sketch of the view, to enable 
him to do which, we encamped early, having come 
twenty-one miles. 

The Methye Portage is about twelve miles in extent, 
and over this space the canoes and all their cargoes 
are carried, both in going to and from the Athabasca 
department. It is part of the range of mountains 
which separates the waters flowing south from those 
flowing north. According to Sir Alexander Macken- 
zie, " this range of hills continues in a 3. W. direction 
until its local height is lost between the Saskatcha- 
wan and Elk Eivers, close on the banl jj of the former, 



In the Arctic Regions. 75 

'in latitude 53° 36' K, longitude 113° 45' W., when 
it appears to take its course due north. 

At daylight on the 14th we began to descend the 
range of hills leading towards the river, and no small 
care was required to prevent the sledges from being 
broken in going down these almost perpendiculai 
heights, or being precipitated into the glens on each 
side. As a precautionary measure the dogs were taken 
off, and the sledges guided by the men, notwithstand- 
ing which they descended with amazing rapidity, and 
the men were thrown into the most ridiculous attitudes 
in endeavoring to stop them. When we had arrived 
at the bottom I could not but feel astonished at the 
laborious task which the voyagers have twice in the 
year to encounter at this place, in conveying their 
stores backwards and forwards. We went across the 
Clear Water Eiver, which runs at the bases of these 
hills, and followed an Indian track along its northern 
bank, by which we avoided the White Mud and Good 
Portages. We afterwards followed the river as far as 
the Pine Portage, when we passed through a very ro- 
mantic defile of rocks, which presented the appearance 
of Gothic ruins, and their rude characters were happi- 
ly contrasted with the softness of the snow, and the 
darker foliage of the pines which crowned their sum- 
mits. We next crossed the Cascade Portage, which 
is the v last on the way to the Athabasca Lake, and we 



76 Thirty Years 



soon afterwards came to some Indian tents, containing 
five families, belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. We 
smoked the calumet in the Chiefs tent, whose name was 
the Thumb, and distributed some tobacco and a weak 
mixture of spirits and water among the men. They 
received this civility with much less grace than the 
Crees, and seemed to consider it a matter of course. 
There was an utter neglect of cleanliness, and a total 
want of comfort in their tents ; and the poor creatures 
were miserably clothed. Mr. Frazer, who accompanied 
us from the Methye Lake, accounted for their being 
in this forlorn condition by explaining, that this band 
of Indians had recently destroyed every thing they 
possessed, as a token of their great grief for the loss of 
their relatives in the prevailing sickness. It appears 
that no article is spared by these unhappy men when 
a near relative dies ; their clothes and tents are cut to 
pieces, their guns broken, and every other weapon 
rendered useless, if some person do not remove these ar- 
ticles from their sight, which is seldom done. Mr. Back 
sketched one of the children. This delighted the 
father very much, who charged the boy to be very 
good now, since his picture had been drawn by a great 
Chief. We learned that they prize pictures very 
highly, and esteem any they can get, however badly 
executed, as efficient charms. They were nnaltle to 
give us any information respecting the country beyond 



In the Arctic Regions. 77 



the Athabasca Lake, which is the boundary of their 
peregrinations to the northward. Having been ap- 
prized of our coming, they had prepared an encamp- 
ment for us ; but we had witnessed too many proofs 
of their importunity to expect that we could pass the 
night near them in any comfort, whilst either spirits, 
tobacco, or sugar, remained in our possession ; and 
therefore preferred to go about two miles further 
along the river, and to encamp among a cluster of 
fine pine trees, after a journey of sixteen miles. 

On the morning of the 15th, in proceeding along 
the river, we perceived a strong smell of sulphur, and 
on the north shore found a quantity of it scattered, 
which seemed to have been deposited by some spring 
in the neighborhood : it appeared very pure and good. 
We continued our course the whole day along the 
river, which is about four hundred yards wide, has 
some islands, and is confined between low land, ex- 
tending from the bases of the mountains on each side. 
We put up at the end of thirteen miles, and were then 
joined by a Chipewyan, who came, as we supposed, 
to serve as our guide to Pierre au Calumet, but as 
none of the party could communicate with our new 
friend, otherwise than by signs, we waited patiently 
until the morning to see what he intended to do. 
The wind blew a gale during the night, and the snow 
fell heavily. The next day our guide led us to the 



78 Thirty Years 



Pembina River, which comes from the southward, 
where we found traces of Indians, who appeared to 
have quitted this station the day before ; we had, 
therefore, the benefit of a good track, which our dogs 
much required, as they were greatly fatigued, by hav- 
ing dragged their loads through very deep snow for 
the last two days. A moose deer crossed the river 
just before the party : this animal is plentiful in the 
vicinity. We encamped in a pleasant, well sheltered 
place, having traveled fourteen miles. 

We had made but a short distance the following 
morning, when we came to some Indian lodges, which 
belonged to an old Chipewyan chief, named the Sun, 
and his family, consisting of five hunters, their wives, 
and children. They were delighted to see us, and 
when the object of our expedition had been explained 
to them, expressed themselves much interested in our 
progress ; but they could give no particle of informa- 
tion respecting the countries beyond the Athabasca 
Lake. We smoked with them, and gave each person 
a glass of mixed spirits and some tobacco. We learn- 
ed from a Canadian servant of the North- West Com- 
pany, who was residing with them, that this family 
had lost numerous relatives, and that the destruction 
of property, which bad been made after their deaths, 
was the only cause for the pitiable condition in which 
we saw them. He said the whole were industrious 



In the Arctic Regions. 79 



hunters, and, therefore, were usually better provided 
with clothes, and other useful articles, than most of 
the Indians. We purchased from them a pair of 
snow-shoes, in exchange for some ammunition. The 
Chipewyans are celebrated for making them good and 
easy to walk in ; we saw some here upwards of six 
feet long, and three broad ; with these unwieldy clogs 
an active hunter, in the spring, when there is a crust 
on the surface of the snow, will run down a moose or 
red deer. 

We made very slow progress after leaving this party, 
on account of the deep snow, but continued along the 
river until we reached its junction with the Atha- 
basca, or Elk River. Very little wood has been seen 
during this day's march. The western shore, near the 
Forks, is destitute of trees ; it is composed of lofty 
perpendicular cliffs, which are now covered with snow. 
The eastern shore supports a few pines. 

March 18. — Soon after our departure from the en- 
campment we met two men, from the establishment 
at Pierre au Calumet, who gave us correct informa- 
tion of the situation and distance. Having : the bene- 
fit of their track, we marched at a tolerably quick 
pace, and made twenty- two miles in the course of the 
day, though the weather was very disagreeable for 
traveling, being stormy, with constant snow. We 
kept along the river the whole time ; its breadth is 



80 Thirty Years 



about two miles. The islands appear better furnish- 
ed with wood than its banks, the summits of which 
are almost bare. Soon after we had encamped our 
Indian guide rejoined us ; he had remained behind 
yesterday, to accompany a friend on a hunting excur- 
sion, without consulting us. On his return this even- 
ing he made no endeavor to explain the reason of his 
absence, but sat down coolly, and began to prepare his 
supper. 

Showers of snow fell until noon on the following 
day, but we continued our journey along the river, 
whose banks and islands became gradually lower as we 
advanced, and less abundantly supplied with wood, 
except willows. We came up with an old Canadian, 
who was resting his wearied dogs during the heat oi 

O DO 

the sun. He was carrying meat from some Indian 
lodges to Fort Chipewyan, having a burden exceeding 
two hundred and fifty pounds on his sledge, which 
was dragged by two miserable dogs. He came up to 
our encampment after dark. We were much amused 
by the altercation that took place between him and our 
Canadian companions as to the qualifications of their 
respective dogs. This, however, is such a general topic 
of conversation among the voyagers in the encampment, 
that we should not probably have remarked it, had 
not the old man frequently offered to bet the whole oi 
his wages that his two dogs, poor and lean as they 



In the Arctic Regions. 81 



were, would drag their load to the Athabasca Lake in 
Less time than any three of theirs could. Having ex- 
pressed our surprise at his apparent temerity, he coolly 
said the men from the lower countries did not under- 
stand the management of their dogs, and that he de- 
pended on his superior skill in driving ; and we soon 
gathered from his remarks, that the voyagers of the 
Athabasca department consider themselves as vgry su- 
perior to any other. The only reasons which he could 
assign were, that they had borne their burdens across 
the terrible Methye Portage, and that they were ac- 
customed to live harder and more precariously. 

March 25. — Having now the guidance of an old Ca~ 
nadian, we sent forward the Indian, and one of our 
men, with letters to the gentleman at the Athabasca 
Lake. The rest of the party set off afterwards, and 
kept along the river until ten, when we branched of? 
by portages into the Embarrass River, the usual chan- 
nel of communication in canoes with the lake. It is 
a narrow and serpentine stream, confined between al- 
luvial banks which support pines, poplars, and willows. 
We had not advanced far before we came up with the 
two men despatched by us this morning. The stormy 
weather had compelled them to encamp, as there was 
too much drifting of the snow for any attempt being 
made to cross the lake. We were obliged, though 

most reluctantly, to follow their example ; but we coni- 

4* 



82 Thirty Years 



fortcd ourselves with the reflection that this was the 
first time we had been stopped by the weather during 
our long journey, which was so near at an end. The 
gale afterwards increased, the squalls at night became 
very violent, disburthened the trees of the snow, and 
gave us the benefit of a continual fall of patches from 
them, in addition to the constant shower. We there- 
fore quickly despatched our suppers, and retired under 
the shelter of our blankets. 

March 26.— The boisterous weather continued 
through the night, and it was not before six this morn- 
ing, that the wind became apparently moderate, and the 
snow ceased. Two of the Canadians were immediately 
sent off with letters to the gentlemen at Fort Chipew- 
yan. After breakfast we also started, but our Indian 
friend, having a great indisposition to move in such 
weather, remained by the fire. We soon quitted the 
river, and after crossing a portage, a small lake, and a 
point of land, came to the borders of the Mam-ma- 
wee Lake. We then found our error as to the strength 
of the wind ; and that the gale still blew violently, 
and there was so much drifting of the snow as to 
cover the distant objects by which our course could be 
directed. We fortunately got a glimpse through this 
cloud of a cluster of islands in the direction of the 
houses, and decided on walking towards them ; but in 
doing this we suffered very much from the cold, and 



In the Arctic Regions. S3 



were obliged to halt under the shelter of them, and 
await the arrival of our Indian guide. He conducted 
us between these islands, over, a small lake, and by a 
swampy river, into the Athabasca Lake, from whence 
the establishments were visible. At four p. m. we had 
the pleasure of arriving at Fort Chipewyan, and of 
being received by Messrs. Keith and Black, the part- 
ners of the North-West Company in charge, in the 
most kind and hospitable manner. Thus has termina- 
ted a winter's journey of eight hundred and fifty-seven 
miles, in the progress of which there has been a great 
intermixture of agreeable and disagreeable circum- 
stances. Could the amount of each be ballanced, I 
suspect the latter would much preponderate ; and 
amongst these the initiation into the practice of walk- 
ing in snow-shoes must be considered as prominent. 
The suffering it occasions can be but faintly imagined 
by a person who thinks upon the inconvenience of 
marching with a weight of between two and three 
pounds constantly attached to galled feet, and swelled 
ankles. Perseverance and practice only will enable 
the novice to surmount this pain. 

The next evil is the being constantly exposed to 
witness the wanton and unnecessary cruelty of the 
men to their dogs, especially those of the Canadians, 
who beat them unmercifully, and habitually vent on 
them the most dreadful and disgusting imprecations, 



84 Thirty Years 



There are other inconveniences which, though keenly 
felt during the day's journey, are speedily forgotten, 
when stretched out in the encampment before a large 
fire, you enjoy the social mirth of your companions, 
who usually pass the evening in recounting their for- 
mer feats in traveling. At this time the Canadians 
are always cheerful and merry, and the only bar to 
their comfort arises from the frequent interruption oc- 
casioned by the dogs, who are constantly prowling 
about the circle, and snatching at every kind of food 
that happens to be within their reach. These useful 
animals are a comfort to them afterwards, by the 
warmth they impart when lying clown by their side or 
feet, as they usually do. But the greatest gratifica- 
tions a traveler in these regions enjoys, are derived 
from the hospitable welcome he receives at every 
trading post, however poor the means of the host may 
be ; and from being disrobed even for a short time of 
the trappings of a voyager, and experiencing the plea- 
sures of cleanliness. 

The following are the estimated distances, in stat- 
ute miles, which Mr. Back and I have traveled since 
our departure from Cumberland : 

From Cumberland House to Carlton House - - - - 263 

From Carlton to Isle a la Crosse 230 

From Isle a .a Crosse to North side of the Methyo Portage 124 

From the Methye Portage to Fort Cbipewyan - - - 240 

857 Miles, 



In the Arctic Regie vis. 85 



CHAPTEE IV. 

mS'26. On the day of our arrival at Fort Chipe- 
wyan we called upon Mr. MacDonald, the gentleman 
in charge of the Hudson's Bay Establishment called 
Fort Wedderburne, and delivered to him Governor 
Williams's circular letter, which desired that every as- 
sistance should be given to further our progress, and a 
statement of the requisitions which we should have ta 
make on his post. 

Our first object was to obtain some certain informa- 
tion respecting our future route ; and accordingly we 
received from one of the North- West Company's in- 
terpreters, named Beaulieu, a half-breed, who had 
been brought up amongst the Dog-ribbed and Copper 
Indians, some satisfactory information, which we after- 
wards found tolerably correct, respecting the mode of 
reaching the Copper-mine Kiver, which he had de- 
scended a considerable way, as well as of the course of 
that river to its mouth. The Copper Indians, how-, 
ever, he said, would be able to give us more accurate 



80 Thirty Years 



information as to the latter part of its course, as they 
occasionally pursue it on the sea. He sketched on the 
floor a representation of the river, and a line of coast 
according to his idea of it. Just as he had finished, 
an old Chipewyan Indian, named Black Meat, unex- 
pectedly came in, and instantly recognized the plan. 
He then took the charcoal from Beaulieu, and inserted 
a track along the sea-coast, which he had followed in 
returning from a war excursion, made by his tribe 
against the Esquimaux He detailed several particu- 
lars of the coast and the sea, which he represented as 
studded with well-wooded islands, and free from ice, 
close to the shore, but not to a great distance, in the 
month of July. He described two other rivers to the 
eastward of Copper-mine Biver, which also fall into 
the Northern Ocean. The Anatessy, which issues from 
the Contway-to or Bum Lake, and the Thloueea-tessy 
or Fish Biver, which rises near the eastern boundary 
of the Great Slave Lake ; but he represented them 
both as being shallow, and too much interrupted by 
barriers for being navigated in any other than small 
Indian canoes. 

Having received this satisfactory intelligence, I 
wrote immediately to Mr. Smith, of the North- West 
Company, and Mr. M< Vicar, of the Hudson's Bay 
Company, the gentlemen in charge of the posts at the 
Great Silver Lake, to communicate the object of the 



Tn the Arctic Regions. 87 

Expedition, and onr proposed route ; and to solicit 
any information. they possessed, or could collect, from 
the Indians, relative to the countries we had to pass 
through, and the best manner of proceeding. As the 
Copper Indians frequent the establishment on the 
north side of the lake, I particularly requested them 
to explain to that tribe the object of our visit, and 
to endeavor to procure from them some guides and 
hunters to accompany our party. Two Canadians 
were sent by Mr. Keith with these letters. 

The month of April commenced with fine and clear 
but extremely cold weather ; unfortunately we were 
still without a thermometer, and could not ascertain 
the degrees of temperature. The coruscations of the 
Aurora were very brilliant almost every evening of the 
first week, and were generally of the most variable 
kind. On the 3d, they were particularly changeable. 
The first appearance exhibited three illuminated beams 
issuing from the horizon in the north, east, and west 
points, and directed towards the zenith ; in a few 
seconds these disappeared, and a complete circle was 
displayed, bounding the horizon at an elevation of 
fifteen degrees. There was a quick lateral motion in 
the attenuated beams of which this zone was compos- 
ed. Its color was a pale yellow, with an occasional 
tinge of red. 

On the 8th of April the. Indians saw some geese in 



88 Thirty Years 



the vicinity of this lake, but none of the migratory 
Lirds appeared near to the houses before the 15th, when 
some swans flew over. These are generally the first 
that arrive ; the weather had been very stormy for the 
four preceding days, and this in all probability kept 
the birds from venturing farther north than where the 
Indians had first seen them. 

In the middle of the month the snow began to waste 
daily, and by degrees it disappeared from the hills and 
the surface of the lake. On the 17th and 19th the 
Aurora appeared rery brilliant in patches of light, 
bearing N.W. An old Cree Indian having found a 
beaver lodge near to the fort, Mr. Keith, Back, and I, 
accompanied him to see the method of breaking into 
it, and their mode of taking those interesting ani- 
mals. The lodge was constructed on the side of a 
-ock in a small lake, having the entrance into it be- 
neath the ice. The frames were formed of layers of 
sticks, the interstices being filled with wood, and the 
outside was plastered with earth and stones, which 
the frost had so completely consolidated, that to break 
through required great labor, with the aid of the ice 
chisel, and the other iron instruments which the bea- 
ver hunters use. The chase, however, was unsuc- 
cessful, as the beaver had previously evacuated the 
lodge. 

The first geese we observed flying near to the foit 



In the Arctic Begions. 89 



were seen on the 21st, and some were brought to the 
house* on the 30th, but they were very lean ; on the 
25th flies were seen sporting in the sun, and on the 
26 th the ice on the lake, near the channel of the river, 
was overflowed, in consequence of the Athabasca river 
having broken up ; but except where this water spread, 
there was no appearauce of decay in the ice. 

May. — During the first part of this month, the wind 
blew from the N.W., and the sky was cloudy. It 
generally thawed during the day, but froze through 
the night. On the 2d the Aurora faintly gleamed 
through very dense clouds. 

We had a long conversation with Mr. Dease of the 
North- West Company, who had recently arrived from 
his station at the bottom of the Athabasca Lake. 
This gentleman, having passed several winters on the 
Mackenzie's River, and at the posts to the northward 
of Slave Lake, possessed considerable information res- 
pecting the Indians, and those parts of the country 
to which our inquiries were directed, which he very 
promptly and kindly communicated. During our con- 
versation, an old Chipewyan Indian, named the Rab- 
bit's Head, entered the room, to whom Mr. Dease re- 
ferred for information on some point. We found from 
his answer that he was a step son of the late Chief 
Matonnabee, who had accompanied Mr. Hearne on his 
journey to the sea, and that he had himself been of 



90 Thirty Years 



the party, but being then a mere boy, he had forgot- 
ten many of the circumstances. He confirms, how- 
ever, the leading incidents related by Hearne, and was 
positive he reached the sea, though he admitted that 
none of the party had tasted the water. He repre- 
sented himself to be the only survivor of that party. 
As he was esteemed a good Indian, I presented him 
with a medal, which he received gratefully, and con- 
cluded a long speech upon the occasion, by assuring 
me he should preserve it carefully all his life. 

On the 10th of May we were gratified by the ap- 
pearance of spring, though the ice remained firm on 
the lake. The anemone (pulsatilla, pasque flower,) 
appeared this day in flower, the trees began to put 
forth their leaves, and the musquitoes visited the warm 
rooms. On the 17th and 18th there were frequent 
ehowers of rain, and much thunder and lightning. 
This moist weather caused the ice to waste so rapidly, 
* hat by the 24th it had entirely disappeared from the 
lake. The gentlemen belonging to both the Compa- 
nies quickly arrived from the different posts in this 
department, bringing their winter's collection of furs, 
which are forwarded from these establishments to the 
depots. 

July 2. — The canoe, which was ordered to be built 
for our use, was finished. As it was constructed after 
the manner, which has been accurately described bj 



In the A ret 'c Regions. 91 

Hearne, and several of the American travelers, a detail 
of the process will be unnecessary. Its extreme 
length was thirty- two feet six inches, including the 
bow and stern pieces ; its greatest breadth was four 
feet ten inches, but it was only two feet nine inches 
forward where the bowman sat, and two feet four inches 
behind where the steersman was placed ; and its depth 
was one foot eleven and a quarter inches. There were 
seventy- three hoops of thin cedar, and a layer of slen- 
der laths of the same wood within the frame. These 
feeble vessels of bark will 'carry twenty-five pieces of 
goeds, each weighing ninety pounds, exclusive of the 
necessary provision and baggage for the crew of five 
or six men, amounting in the whole to about three 
thousand three hundred pounds' weight. This great 
lading they annually carry between the depots and the 
posts, in the interior ; and it rarely happens that any 
accidents occur, if they are managed by experienced 
bowmen and steersmen, on whose skill the safety of 
the canoe entirely depends in the rapids and difficult 
places. When a total portage is made, these two men 
carry the canoe, and they often run with it, though its 
weight is estimated at about three hundred pounds, 
exclusive of the poles and oars, which are occasionally 
left in where the distance is short. 

July 13. — This morning Mr. Back and I had the 
sincere gratification of welcoming our long separated 



92 Thirty Years 



friends, Dr. Kichardson and Mr. Hood, who arrived in 
perfect health with two canoes, having made a very 
expeditious journey from Cumberland, notwithstand- 
ing they were detained near three days in consequence 
of the melancholy loss of one of their bowmen, by 
the upsetting of a canoe in a strong rapid ; but, as 
the occurrences of this journey, together with the 
mention of some other circumstances that happened 
previous to their departure from Cumberland, which 
have been extracted from Mr. Hood's narrative, will 
appear in the following chapter, it will be unnecessa- 
ry to enter farther into these points now. 

The zeal and talent displayed by Dr. Richardson 
and Mr. Hood in the discharge of their several duties, 
since my separation from them, drew forth my highest 
approbation. These gentlemen had brought all the 
stores they could procure from the establishments at 
Cumberland and at Isle £ la Crosse ; and at the latter 
place they had received ten bags of pemmican from 
the North- West Company, which proved to be mouldy 
and so totally unfit for use that it was left at the Me- 
thye portage. They got none from the Hudson's Bay 
post. The voyagers belonging to that Company, 
being destitute of provisions, had eaten what was in- 
tended for us. In consequence of these untoward 
circumstances, the canoes arrived with only one's day 
supply of this most essential article. The prospect 



In the Arctic Regions. 93 

of having to commence our journey from hence, almost 
destitute of provision, and scantily supplied with 
stores, was distressing to us, and very discouraging to 
the men. It was evident, however, that any unneces- 
sary delay here would have been very imprudent, as 
Fort Chipewyan did not, at the present time, furnish 
the means of subsistence for so large a party, much 
less was there a prospect of our receiving any supply 
to carry with us. We, therefore, hastened to make 
the necessary arrangements for our speedy departure. 
All the stores were demanded that could possibly be 
spared from both the establishments ; and we rejoiced 
to find, that when this collection was added to the ar- 
ticles that had been brought up by the canoes, that 
we had a sufficient quantity of clothing for the equip- 
ment of the men who had been engaged here, as well 
as to furnish a present to the Indian??, besides some 
few goods for the winter's consumption ; hut we could 
not procure any ammunition, which was the most es- 
sential article, or spirits, and but little tobacco. 

We then made a final arrangement respecting the 
voyagers, who were to accompany the party ; and for- 
tunately, there was no difficulty in doing this, as Dr. 
Richardson and Mr. Hood had taken the very judicious 
precaution of bringing up ten men from Cumberland, 
who were engaged to proceed forward if their services 
weie required. The Canadians, whom they brought, 



94 Thirty Years 

were most desirous of being continued, and we felt sin- 
cere pleasure in being able to keep men who were so 
zealous in the cause, and who had given proofs of their 
activity on their recent passage to this place, by dis- 
charging those men who were less willing to undertake 
the journey ; of these three were Englishman, one 
American, and three Canadians. When the numbers 
were completed, which we had been recommended by 
the traders to take as a protection against the Esqui- 
maux, we had sixteen Canadian-voyagers, and our 
worthy and only English attendant John Hepburn, 
besides the two interpreters whom we were to receive 
at the Great Slave Lake ; we were also accompanied 
by a Chipewyan woman. An equipment of goods 
was given to each of the men who had been engaged 
at this place, similar to what had been furnished to the 
others at Cumberland ; and when this distribution 
had been made, the remainder were made up into 
bales, preparatory to our departure on the following 
day. We were cheerfully assisted in these and all our 
occupations by Mr. Smith, who evinced an anxious 
desire to supply our wants as far as his means per- 
mitted. 



In the Arctic Regions. 95 



CHAPTER V. 

July's. Early this morning the stores were distributed 
to the three canoes. Oar stock of provision unfortu- 
nately did not amount to more than sufficient for one 
day's consumption, exclusive of two barrels of flour, 
three cases of preserved meats, some chocolate, arrow- 
root, and portable soup^ which we had brought from 
England, and intended to reserve for our journey to 
the coast next season. Seventy pounds of moose meat 
and a little barley were all that Mr. Smith was ena- 
bled to give us. It was gratifying, however^ to per- 
ceive that this scarcity of food did not depress the 
spirits of our Canadian companions, who cheerfully 
loaded their canoes, and embarked in high glee after 
they had received the customary dram. At noon we 
bade farewell to our kind friend Mr. Smith. The 
crews commenced a lively paddling song on quitting 
the shore, which was continued until we had lost 
sight of the houses. We soon reached the wastern 
boundary of the lake, and at two entered the Stoney 
River, one of the discharges of the Athabasca Lake, 



9(5 Thirty Years 



into the Slave River, and having a favoring current 
passed swiftly along. This narrow stream is confined 
between low swampy banks, which support willows, 
dwarf birch, and alder. At five we passed its conflux 
with Peace River. The Slave River, formed by the 
union of these streams, is about three-quarters of a 
mile wide. We descended this magnificent river with 
much rapidity, and after passing through several nar- 
row channels, formed by an assemblage of islands, 
crossed a spot where the waters had a violent whirl- 
ing motion, which, when the river is low, is said to 
subside into a dangerous rapid ; on the present occa- 
sion, no other inconvenience was felt than the inabili- 
ty of steering the canoes, which were whirled about in 
every direction by the eddies, until the current carried 
them beyond their influence. We encamped at seven, 
on the swampy bank of the river, but had scarcely 
pitched the tents before we were visited by a terrible 
thunder-storm ; the rain fell in torrents, and the vio- 
lence of the wind caused the river to overflow its 
banks, so that we were completely flooded. Swarms 
of musquitoes succeeded the storm, and their torment- 
ing stings, superadded to other inconveniences, induced 
us to embark, and, after taking a hasty supper, to 
pursue our voyage down the stream during the night. 
At six on the following morning we passed the 
Reindeer Islands, and at ten reached the entrance of 






In the Arctic Regions, 97 



the Dog Eiver, where we halted to set the fishing nets. 
These were examined in the evening, but to our mor- 
tification we obtained only four small trout, and were 
compelled to issue part of our preserved meats for sup- 
per. The latitude of the mouth of Dog Eiver, was 
observed 59° 52' 16" N. 

The nets were taken up at daylight, but they fur- 
nished only a solitary pike. We lost no time in em- 
barking, and crossed the crooked channel of the Dog 
Eapid, when two of the canoes came in such violent 
contact with each other, that the sternmost had its 
bow broken off. We were fortunately near to the 
shore, or the disabled canoe would have sunk. The 
injury being repaired in two hours, we again embarked, 
and having descended another rapid, arrived at the 
Cassette Portage of four hundred and sixty paces, over 
which the cargoes and canoes were carried in about 
twenty-six minutes. We next passed through a nar- 
row channel full of rapids, crossed the Portage d'Em- 
barras of seventy yards ; and the portage of the Little 
Eock, of three hundred yards, at which another acci- 
dent happened to one of the canoes, by the bowman 
slipping and letting it fall upon a rock, and breaking 
it in two. Two hours were occupied in sewing the de- 
tached pieces together, and covering the seam with 
pitch , but this being done, it was as effective as be- 
fore. After leaving this place we soon came to the 



98 Thirty Years 



next portage, of two hundred and seventy-three paces ; 
and shortly afterwards to the Mountain Portage, of on« 
jundred and twenty : which is appropriately named, 
as the path leads over the summit of a high hill. 
This elevated situation commands a very grand and 
picturesque view, for some miles along the river, which 
at this part is about a mile wide. 

We next crossed a portage of one hundred and 
twenty yards ; and then the Pelican portage of eight 
hundred paces. Mr. Back took an accurate sketch of 
the interesting scenery which the river presents at this 
place. After descending six miles further we came to 
the last portage on the route to Slave Lake, which we 
crossed, and encamped at its lower end. It is called 
" The Portage of the Drowned" and it received that 
name from a melancholy accident which took place 
many years ago. Two canoes arrived at the upper 
end of the portage, in one of which there was an ex- 
perienced guide. This man, judging from the height 
of the river, deemed it practicable to shoot the rapid, 
and determined upon trying it. He accordingly 
placed himself in the bow of his canoe, having pre- 
viously agreed, that if the passage was found easy, he 
should, on reaching the bottom of the rapid, fire a 
musket, as a signal for the other canoe to follow. 
The rapid proved dangerous, and called forth all the 
skill of the guide, and the utmost exertion of hi? 



In the Arctic Regions. 99 

crew, and they narrowly escaped destruction. Just 
as they were landing, an unfortunate fellow, seizing 
the loaded fowling-piece, fired at a duck which rose 
at the instant. The guide anticipating the conse- 
quences, ran with the utmost haste to the other end 
of the portage, but he was too late : the other canoe, 
had pushed off, and he arrived only to witness the 
fate of his comrades. They got alarmed in the mid- 
dle of the rapid, the canoe was upset, and every man 
perished. 

The various rapids we have passed to-day, are pro- 
duced by an assemblage of islands and rocky ledges, 
which obstruct the river, and divide it into many nar- 
row channels. Two of these channels are rendered 
still more difficult by accumulations of drift timber ; 
a circumstance which has given a name to one of the 
portages. The rocks which form the bed of the river, 
and the numerous islands, belong to the granite 
formation. The distance made to-day was thirteen 
miles. 

July 21. — We embarked at four A.M., and pursued 
our course down the river. The rocks cease at the 
last portage ; and below it the banks are composed of 
alluvial soil, which is held together by the roots of 
the trees and shrubs that crown their summits. The 
river is about a mile wide, and the current is greatly 
diminished. At eight we landed at the mouth of the 



100 Thirty Years 



Salt River, and pitched our tents, intending to remain 
here this and the next day for the purpose of fishing. 
After breakfast, which made another inroad on our 
preserved meats, we proceeded up the river in a light 
canoe, to visit the salt springs, leaving a party behind 
to attend the nets. This river is about one hundred 
yards wide at its mouth. Its waters did not become 
brackish until we had ascended it seven or eight 
miles ; but when we had passed several rivulets of 
fresh water which flowed in, the main stream became 
very salt, at the same time contracting to the width 
of fifteen or twenty yards. At a distance of twenty- 
two miles, including the windings of the river, the 
plains commence. Having pitched the tent at this 
spot, we set out to visit the principal springs, and 
walked about three miles when the musquitoes com- 
pelled us to give up our project. We did not see the 
termination of the plains towards the east, but on the 
north and west they are bounded by an even ridge, 
about six or seven hundred feet in height. Several 
salt springs issue from the foot of this ridge, and 
spread their waters over the plain, which consists of 
tenacious clay. During the summer much evapora- 
tion takes place, and large heaps of salt are left 
behind crystalized in the form of cubes. Some beds 
of greyish compact gypsum were exposed on the sides 
of the hills. 



In the Arctic Regions. 101 

The next morning after filling some casks with salt 
for our use during winter, we embarked to return, and 
had descended the rrver a few miles, when turning 
round a point, we perceived a buffalo plunge into the 
river before us. Eager to secure so valuable a prize, ' 
we instantly opened a fire upon him from four muskets, 
and in a few minutes he fell, but not before he had 
received fourteen balls. The carcass was towed to the 
bank, and the canoe speedily laden with meat. After 
this piece of good fortune, we descended the stream 
merrily, our voyagers chanting their liveliest songs. 
On arrival at the mouth of the river, we found that 
our nets had not produced more than enough to sup- 
ply a scanty meal to the men whom we had left 
behind, but this was now of little importance as the 
acquisition of meat we had made, would enable us to 
proceed without more delay to Slave Lake. In the 
evening, a violent thunder-storm came on with heavy 
rain ; thermometer 70°. 

At a very early hour on the following morning, we 
embarked, and continued to paddle against a very 
strong wind and high waves, under the shelter of the 
bank of the rivers, until two P. M., when having 
arrived at a more exposed part of the stream, the 
oanoes took In so much water that we were obliged to 
disembark on a small island. The river here is from 
one mile and a quarter to one mile and three-quarters 



102 Thirty Tears 



wide. Its banks are of moderate height, sandy, and 
well wooded. 

July 24. — We made more progress notwithstanding 
the continuance of the wind. The course of the river 
is very winding, making in one place a circuit of seven 
or eight miles round a peninsula, which is joined to 
the west bank by a narrow isthmus. Near the foot 
of this elbow, a long island occupies the centre of the 
river, which it divides into two channels. 

Soon after landing, I visited the Hudson's Bay post 
on the game island, and engaged Pierre St. German, 
an interpreter for the Copper Indians. We regretted 
to find the posts of both the Companies extremely 
bare of provision ; but as the gentleman in charge had 
despatched men on the preceding evening, to a band 
of Indians, in search of meat, and they promised to 
furnish us with whatever should be brought, it was 
deemed advisable to wait for their return, as the small- 
est supply was now of importance to us. Advantage 
was taken of the delay to repair effectually the canoe, 
which had been broken in the Dog Rapid. On the next 
evening, the men arrived with the meat, and enabled 
Mr. M'Cleod, of the North- West Company, to furnish 
us with four hundred pounds of dried provisions. Mr. 
M' Vicar, of the Hudson's Bay Company, also supplied 
one hundred and fifty pounds. This quantity we con- 
sidered would be sufficient, until we could join the hun- 



In the Arctic Regions. 103 

ters. We also obtained three fishing nets, a gun ; and 
a pair of pistols, which were all the stores these posts 
could furnish, although the gentlemen in charge were 
muoh disposed to assist us. 

On the 27th of July we embarked at four A. M., 
and proceeded along the south shore of the lake, 
through a narrow channel, formed by some islands, 
beyond the confluence of the principal branch of the 
Slave Kiver ; and as far as Stoney Island, where we 
breakfasted. This island is merely a rock of gneiss, 
that rises forty or fifty feet above the lake, and is pre- 
cipitous on the north side. As the day was fine, and 
the lake smooth, we ventured upon paddling across to 
the Keindeer Islands, which were distant about thir- 
teen miles in a northern direction, instead of pursuing 
the usual track by keeping further along the south 
shore, which inclines to the eastward from this point. 
These islands are numerous, and consist of granite, 
rising from one hundred to two hundred feet above the 
water. They are for the most part naked ; but to- 
wards the centres of the larger ones, there is a little 
soil, and a few groves of pines. At seven in the 
evening we landed upon one of them, and encamped. 
On the following morning we ran before a strong breeze 
and a heavy swell, for some hours, but at length were 
obliged to seek shelter on a large island adjoining to 
Isle d la Cache of Mackenzie. 



104 Thirty Years 



The wind and swell having subsided in the after- 
noon, we re-embarked ? and steered towards the western 
point of the Big Island of Mackenzie, and when four 
miles distant from it, had forty- two fathoms soundings. 
Passing between this island and a promontory of the 
main shore, termed Big Cape, we entered into a deep 
bay, which receives the waters from several rivers that 
come from the northward ; and we immediately per- 
ceived a decrease in the temperature of the water, 
from 59° to 48°. We coasted along the eastern side 
of the day, its western shore being always visible, but 
the canOes were exposed to the hazard of being broken 
by the numerous sudden rocks, which were scattered 
in our track. We encamped for the night on a rocky 
island, and by eight A. M. on the following morning, 
arrived at Fort Providence, which is situated twenty- 
one miles from the entrance of the bay. The post is 
exclusively occupied by the North- West Company, 
the Hudson's Bay Company having no settlement to 
the northward of Great Slave Lake. We found Mr. 
Wentzel and our interpreter Jean Baptiste Adam 
here, with one of the Indian guides : but the chief of 
the tribe and his hunters were encamped with their 
families, some miles from the fort, in a good situation 
for fishing. Our arrival was announced to him by a 
fire on the top of a hill, and before night a messenger 
came to communicate his intention of seeing us next 



In the Arctic Regions. 105 

morning. The customary present, of tobacco and 
some other articles, was immediately sent to him. 

Mr. Wentzel prepared me for the first conference 
with the Indians, by mentioning all the information 
they had already given to him. The duties allotted 
to this gentleman were, the management of the In- 
dians, the superintendence of the Canadian voyagers, 
the obtaining, and the general distribution, of the 
provision, and the issue of the other stores. These 
services he was well qualified to perform, having been 
accustomed to execute similar duties, during a resi- 
dence of upwards of twenty years in this country. We 
also deemed Mr. Wentzel to be a great acquisition to 
our party, as a check upon the interpreters, he being 
one of the few traders who speak the Chipewyan 
language. 

As we were informed that external appearances 
made lasting impressions upon the Indians, we pre- 
pared for the interview by decorating ourselves in uni- 
form, and suspending a medal round each of our necks. 
Our tents had been previously pitched, and over one 
of them a silken union flag was hoisted. Soon after 
noon, on July 30th, several Indian canoes were seen 
advancing in a regular line, and on their approach, 
the chief was discovered in the headmost, which was 
paddled by two men. On landing at the fort, the 

chief assumed a very grave aspect, and walked up to 

5* 



106 Thirty Tears 



Mr. Wentzel with a measured and dignified step, 
looking neither to the right nor to the left/ at the per- 
sons who had assembled on the beach to witness his 
debarkation, but preserving the same immovability 
of countenance until he reached the hall, and was in- 
troduced to the officers. When he had smoked his 
pipe, drank a small portion of spirits and water him- 
self, and issued a glass to each of his companions, who 
had seated themselves on the floor, he commenced his 
harangue, by mentioning the circumstances that led 
to his agreeing to accompany the expedition, an en- 
gagement which he was quite prepared to fulfil. He 
was rejoiced, he said, to see such great chiefs on his 
lands, his tribe were poor, but they loved white men 
who had been their benefactors ; and he hoped that 
our visit would be productive of much good to them. 
The report which preceded our arrival, he said, had 
caused much grief to him. It was at first rumo/ed 
that -a great medicine ehi< j f accompanied us, who was 
able to restore the dead to life ; at this he rejoiced, 
the prospect of again seeing his departed relatives had 
enlivened his spirits, but his first communication with 
Mr. Wentzel had removed these vain hopes, and he 
felt as if his friends had a second time been torn from 
Mm. He now wished to be informed exactly of the 
nature of our expedition. 

In reply to this speech^ which I understood had 



In the Arctic Regions. IGT* 

been prepared for many days, I endeavored to explain 
the objects of our mission in a manner best calculated 
to ensure his exertions in our service. With this view ? 
I told him that we were sent out by the greatest chief 
in the world, who was the sovereign also of the trad- 
ing companies in the country ; that he was the friend 
of peace, and had the interest of every nation at heart. 
Having learned that his children in the north, were 
much in want of articles of merchandize, in conse- 
quence of the extreme length and difficulty of the 
present route ; he had sent us to search for a passage 
by the sea, which, if found, would enable large vessels 
to transport great quantities of goods more easily to 
their lands. That we had not come for the purpose of 
traffic, but solely to make discoveries for their benefit, 
as well as that of every other people. That we had 
been directed to inquire into the nature of all the pro- 
ductions of the countries we might pass through, and 
particularly respecting their inhabitants. That we 
desired the assistance of the Indians in guiding us, 
and providing us with. food; finally, that we were 
most positively enjoined by the great chief to recom- 
mend that hostilities should cease throughout this 
country ; and especially between the Indians and Es- 
quimaux ? whom he considered his children, in com- 
mon with other natives ; and by way of enforcing 
the latter point more strongly, I assured him that a 



108 Thirty Years 



forfeiture of all the advantages which might be anti- 
cipated from the expedition would be a certain conse- 
quence, if any quarrel arose between his party and the 
Esquimaux. I also communicated to him that owing 
to the distance we had traveled, we had now few more 
stores than were necessary for the use of our own 
party, a part of these, however, should be forthwith 
presented to him ; on his return, he and his party 
should be remunerated with cloth, ammunition, to- 
bacco, and some useful iron materials, besides having 
their debts to the North-West Company discharged. 

The chief, whose name is Akaitcho or Big-foot, 
replied by a renewal of his assurances, that he and his 
party would attend us to the end of our journey, and 
that they would do their utmost to provide us with 
the means of subsistence. He admitted that his tribe 
made war upon the Esquimaux, but said they were 
now desirous of peace, and unanimous in their opinion 
as to the necessity of all who accompanied us abstain- 
ing from every act of enmity against that nation. 
He added, however, that the Esquimaux were very 
treacherous, and therefore recommended that we should 
advance towards them with caution. 

The communication which the chief and the guides 
then gave respecting the route to the Copper-Mine 
River, and its course to the sea, coincided in every 
material point with the statements which were made 



In the Arctic Regions. 109 

by Boileau and Black-meat at Chipewyan, but they 
differed in the descriptions of the coast. The infor- 
mation, however, collected from both sources was very 
vague and unsatisfactory. None of his tribe had been 
more than three days' march along the sea-coast to 
the eastward of the river's mouth. 

As the water was unusually high this season, the 
Indian guides recommended our going by a shorter 
route to the Copper-Mine River than that they had 
first proposed to Mr. Wentzel, and they assigned as a 
reason for the change, that the rein-deer would be 
sooner found upon this tract. They then drew a chart 
of the proposed route on the floor with charcoal, ex- 
hibiting a chain of twenty-five small lakes extending 
towards the north, about one-half of them connected 
by a river which flows into Slave Lake, near Fort 
Providence. One of the guides, named Keskarrah, 
drew the Copper-Mine River, running through the 
Upper Lake in a westerly direction towards the G-reat 
Bear Lake, and then northerly to the sea. The other 
guide drew the river in a straight line to the sea from 
the above mentioned place, but after some dispute, 
admitted the correctness of the first delineation. The 
latter was elder brother to Akaitcho, and he said that 
he had accompanied Mr. Hearne on his journey, and 
though very young at the time, still remembered 
many of the circumstances, and particularly the mas 



110 Thirty Years 



sacre committed by the Indians on the Esquimaux. 
They pointed out another lake to the southward of 
the river, about three days' journey distant from it, 
on which the chief proposed the next winter's estab- 
lishment should be formed, as the rein-deer would pass 
there in the autumn and spring. Its waters con- 
tained fish, and there was a sufficiency of wood for 
building as well as for the winter's consumption. 
These were important considerations, and determined 
me in pursuing the route they now proposed. They 
could not inform us what time we should take in 
reaching the lake, until they saw our manner of 
traveling in the large canoes, but they supposed we 
might be about twenty days, in which case I enter- 
tained the hope that if we could then procure pro- 
vision we should have time to descend the Copper- 
Mine River for a considerable distance, if not to the 
sea itself, and return to the lake before the winter 
set in. 

It may here be proper to mention that it had been 
my original plan to descend the Mackenzie's River, 
and to cross the Great Bear Lake, from the eastern 
side of which, Boileau informed me, there is a com- 
munication with the Copper- Mine River by four small 
lakes and portages ; but, under our present circum- 
stances, this course could not be followed, because it 
would remove us too far from the establishments, at 



In the Artie Regions. Ill 

the Great Slave Lake, to receive the supplies oi 
ammunition and some other stores in the winter which 
were absolutely necessary for the prosecution of our 
journey, or to get the Esquimaux interpreter, whom 
we expected. If I had not deemed these circumstances 
paramount I should have preferred the route by Bear 
Lake. 

Akaitcho and the guides having communicated all 
the information they possessed on the different points 
to which our questions had been directed, I placed my 
medal round the neck of the chief, and the officers 
presented theirs to an elder brother of his and the two 
guides, communicating to them that these marks of 
distinction were given as tokens of our friendship and 
as pledges of the sincerity of our professions. Being 
conferred in the presence of all the hunters, their ac- 
quisition was highly gratifying to them, but they stu- 
diously avoided any great expression of joy, because 
such an exposure would have been unbecoming the 
dignity which the senior Indians assume during a con- 
ference. They assured us, however, of their being 
duly sensible of these tokens of our regard, and that 
they should be preserved during their lives with the 
utmost care. The chief evinced much penetration and 
intelligence during the whole of this conversation, 
which gave us a favorable opinion of his intellectual 
powers. He made many inquiries respecting the 



112 Thirty Years 



Discovery ships, under the command of Captain Parry, 
which had been mentioned to him, and asked why a 
passage had not been discovered long ago, if one exist- 
ed. It may be stated that we gave a faithful explana- 
tion to all his inquiries, which policy would have 
prompted us to do if a love of truth had not ; for 
whenever these northern nations detect a falsehood in 
the dealings of the traders, they make it an unceasing 
subject of reproach, and their confidence is irrecovera- 
bly lost. 

We presented to the chief, the two guides, and the 
seven hunters, who had engaged to accompany us, 
some cloth, blankets, tobacco, knives, daggers, besides 
other useful iron materials, and a gun to each ; also a 
keg of very weak spirits and water, which they kept 
until the evening, as they had to try their guns before 
dark, and make the necessary preparations for com- 
mencing the journey on the following day. The In- 
dians, however, did not leave us on the next day, as 
the chief was desirous of being present, with his party, 
at the dance, which was given in the evening to our 
Canadian voyagers. They were highly entertained by 
the vivacity and agility displayed by our companions 
in their singing and dancing : and especially by their 
imitating the gestures of a Canadian, who placed him- 
self in the most ludicrous postures ; and, whenever 
this was done, the gravity of the chief gave way U 



In the Arctic Regions, 113 

violent bursts of laughter. In return for the gratifi- 
cation Akaitcho had enjoyed, he desired his young men 
to exhibit the Dog-Rib Indian dance ; and immediate- 
ly they ranged themselves in a circle, and keeping their 
legs widely separated, began to jump simultaneously 
sideways ; their bodies were bent, their hands placed 
on their hips, and they uttered forcibly the interjec- 
tion tsa at each jump. Devoid as were their attitudes 
of grace, and their music of harmony, we were 'much 
amused by the novelty of the exhibition. 

In the midst of this scene an untoward accident oc- 
curred, which for a time interrupted our amusements. 
The tent in which Dr. Richardson and I lodged hav- 
ing caught fire from some embers that had been placed 
in it to expel the musquitoes, was entirely burnt. 
Hepburn, who was sleeping within it, close to some 
powder, most providentially awoke in time to throw it 
clear of the flame, and rescue the baggage, before any 
material injury had been received. We dreaded the 
consequences of this disaster upon the fickle minds of 
the Indians, and wished it not to be communicated to 
them. The chief, however, was soon informed of it 
by one of his people, and expressed his desire that no 
future misfortune should be concealed from him. We 
found he was most concerned to hear that the flag had 
been burnt, but we removed his anxiety on that point 
by the assurance that it could easily be repaired. We 



114 Thirty Years 

were advised by Mr. Wentzel to recommence the 
dancing after this event, lest the Indians should l;na-* 
gine, by our putting a stop to it, that we considered 
the circumstance as an unfavorable commencement of 
our undertaking. We were, however, deeply impress- 
ed with a grateful sense of the Divine Providence, in 
averting the threatened destruction of our stores, 
which would have been fatal to every prospect of pro- 
ceeding forward this season. 

August 1. — This morning the Indians set out, in- 
tending to wait for us at the mouth of the Yellow- 
Knife Kiver. We remained behind to pack cur stores, 
in bales of eighty pounds each, an operation which 
could not be done in the presence of these [ndians, as 
they are in the habit of begging for every thing they 
see. Our stores consisted of two barrels of gunpow- 
der, one hundred and forty pounds of biil and small 
shot, four fowling pieces, a few old trading guns, eight 
pistols, twenty-four Indian daggers, some packages of 
knives, chisels, axes, nails, and fastenings for a boat ; 
a few yards of cloth, some blankets, needles, looking- 
glasses, and beads ; together with nine fishing nets, 
having meshes of different sizes. Our provision was 
two casks of fluur, two hundred dried reindeer tongues, 
some dried moose meat, portable soup, and arrow- root, 
sufficient in the whole for ten days' consumption, be- 
sides two cases of chocolate, and two canisters of tea. 



In the Arctic Regions, 115 



We engaged another Canadian voyager at this place, 
and the expedition then consisted of twenty-eight 
persons, including the officers, and the wives of three 
of the voyagers, who were brought for the purpose of 
making shoes and clothes for the men at the winter 
3stablishment ; there were also three children, belong- 
ing to two of these women.* 

* The following is the list of the officers and men who composed the 
expedition on its departure from Fort Providence : 

John Franklin, Lieutenant of the Royal Navy and Commander. 
John Richardson, M. D., Surgeon of the Royal Navy. 
Mr. George Back, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman. 
Mr. Robert Hood, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman, 
Mr. Frederic Wentzel, Clerk to the North-West Company. 
John Hepburn. English seaman. 

Canadian Voyagers. 

John Peltier, Gabriel Beauparlant, 
Mathew Pelonquin. dit Credit, Vincenza Fontano, 

Solomon Belanger, Registe Vaillant, 

Joseph Bennoit, Jean Baptiste Parent, 

Joseph Gagne, Jean Baptiste Belanger, 

Pierre Dumas, Jean Baptiste Belleau, 

Joseph Forcier, Emanuel Cournoyee, 

Ignace Perrault, Michel Teroahaute an Troquois, 
Francais Samandre. 

Interpretebs. 

Pierre St. German, Chipewyan Bois Brules, 

Jean Baptiste Adam, 



116 Thirty Years 



Our observations place Fort Providence in latitude 
62° 17' 19" N., longitude 114° 9' 28" W. ; the vari- 
ation of the compass is 33° 35' 55 n E., and the dip 
of the needle 86° 38' 02". It is distant from Moose- 
Deer Island sixty-six geographic miles. This is the 
last establishment of the traders in this direction, but 
the North-West Company have two to the northward 
of it, on the Mackenzie Kiver. It has been erected 
for the convenience of the Copper and Dog- rib Indians, 
who generally bring such a quantity of reindeer meat 
that the residents are enabled, out of their superabun- 
dance, to send annually some provision to the fort at 
Moose-Deer Island. They also occasionally procure 
moose and buffalo meat, but these animals are not nu- 
merous on this side of the lake. Few furs are collect- 
ed. Les poissons inconnus, trout, pike, carp, and 
white fish, are very plentiful, and on these the resi- 
dents principally subsist. Their great supply of fish 
is procured in the latter part of September and the 
beginning of October, but there are a few taken daily 
in the nets during the winter. The surrounding coun- 
try consists almost entirely of coarse grained granite, 
frequently enclosing large masses of reddish felspar. 
These rocks form hills which attain an elevation of 
three hundred or four hundred feet, about a mile be- 
hind the house ; their surface is generally naked, but 
in the valleys between them a few spruces, aspens, arid 



In the Arctic Regions. 117 

birches grow, together with a variety of shrubs and 
berry-bearing plants. 

On the afternoon of the 2d of August we commen- 
ced our journey, having, in addition to our three canoes, 
a smaller one to convey the women ; we were all in 
high spirits, being heartily glad that the time had at 
length arrived when our course was to be directed to- 
wards the Copper-Mine Eiver, and through a line of 
country which had not been previously visited by any 
European. We proceeded to the northward, along the 
eastern side of a deep bay of the lake, passing through 
various channels, formed by an assemblage of rocky 
islands ; and, at sunset, encamped on a projecting 
point of the north main shore, eight miles from Fort 
Providence. To the westward of this arm, or bay, of 
the lake, there is another deep bay, that receives the 
waters of a river, which communicates with great Mar- 
ten Lake, where the North-West Company had once 
a post established. 

Aug. 3. — We embarked at three A. M, and proceed- 
ed to the entrance of the Yellow-Knife Kiver of the 
traders, which is called by the Natives Beg-ho-lo-des- 
sy ; or, Kiver of the Toothless Fish. We found Akait-. 
cho, -and the hunters with their families, encamped 
here. There were also several other Indians of his 
tribe, who intended to accompany us some distance 
into the interior. This party was quickly in motion 



118 Thirty Tears 



after our arrival, and we were soon surrounded by a 
fleet of seventeen Indian canoes. In company with 
them we paddled up the river, which is one hundred 
and fifty yards wide, and, in an hour, came to a cas- 
cade of five feet, where we were compelled to make a 
portage of one hundred and fifty-eight yards. We 
next crossed a dilatation of the river, about six miles 
in length, upon which the name of Lake Prosperous 
was bestowed. Its shores, though scantily supplied 
with wood, are very picturesque. 

Akaitcho caused himself to be paddled by his slave, 
a young man, of the Dog-rib nation, whom he had 
taken by force from his friends ; when he thought him- 
self, however, out of reach of our observation, he laid 
aside a good deal of his state, and assisted in the la- 
bor ; and after a few days' further acquaintance with 
us, he did not hesitate to paddle in our presence, or 
even carry his canoe on the portages. Several of the 
canoes were managed by women, who proved to be 
noisy companions, for they quarrelled frequently, and 
the weakest was generally profuse in her lamentations, 
which were not at all diminished, when the husband 
attemped to settle the difference by a few blows with 
his paddle. 

Leaving the lake, we ascended a very strong rapid, 
and arrived at a range of three steep cascades, situa- 
ted in the bend of the river. Here we made a portage 



In the Arctic Regions. 119 



of one thousand three hundred yards over a rocky hill, 
which received the name of the Bowstring Portage, 
from its shape. We found that the Indians had great- 
ly the advantage of us in this operation ; the men 
carried their small canoes, the women and children 
the clothes and provisions, and at the end of the por- 
tage they were ready to embark ; whilst it was neces- 
sary for our people to return four times, before they 
could transport the weighty cargo with which we were 
burthened. After passing through another expansion 
of the river, and over the steep portage of one hun- 
dred and fifteen yards, we encamped on a small rocky 
isle, just large enough to hold our party, and the In- 
dians took possession of an adjoining rock. We were 
now distant thirty miles from Fort Providence. 

As soon as the tents were pitched, the officers and 
men were divided into watches for the night ; a pre- 
caution intended to be taken throughout the journey, 
not merely to prevent our being surprised by strangers, 
but also to show our companions that we were con- 
stantly on our guard. The chief, who suffered noth- 
ing to escape his observation, remarked, " that he 
should sleep without anxiety among the Esquimaux, 
for he perceived no enemy could surprise us." 

After supper we retired to rest, but our sleep was 
soon interrupted by the Indians joining in loud lamen- 
tations over a sick child, whom they supposed to be 



120 Thirty Years 



dying. Dr. Richardson, however, immediately went 
to the boy, and administered some medicine which re- 
lieved his pain, and put a stop to their mourning. 
The temperatures, this day, were at 4 A.M 54°, three 
P.M. 72°, at seven P.M. 65°. 

On the 4th we crossed a small lake, and passed over 
in succession the Blue Berry Cascade, and Double 
Fall Portages, where the river falls over ridges of rocks 
that completely obstruct the passage for canoes. We 
came to three strong rapids beyond these barriers, 
which were surmounted by the aid of the poles and 
lines, and then to a bend of the river in which the cas- 
cades were so frequent, that to avoid them we cairied 
the canoes into a chain of small lakes. We entered 
theni by a portage of nine hundred and fifty paces, 
and during the afternoon traversed three other grassy 
lakes, and encamped on the banks of the river, at the 
end of the Yellow-Knife Portage, of three hundred 
and fifty paces. This day's work was very laborious 
to our men. Akaitcho, however, had directed his 
party to assist them in carrying their burdens on the 
portages, which they did cheerfully. This morning 
Mr. Back caught several fish with a fly, a method of 
fishing entirely new to the Indians ; and they were 
not more delighted than astonished at his skill and 
success. The extremes of temperature to-day were 
54° ami 65°. 



In the Arctic Regions. 121 

On August 5th, we continued the ascent of the riv- 
sr which varied much in breadth as did the current in 
rapidity. It flows between high rocky banks on which 
there is sufficient soil to support pines, birch, and pop- 
lars. Five portages were crossed, then the Rocky 
Lake, and we finished our labors at the end of the 
sixth portage. The issue of dried meat for breakfast 
this morning had exhausted all our stock ; and no 
other provision remained but the portable soups, and 
a few pounds of preserved meat. At the recommen- 
dation of Akaitcho, the hunters were furnished with 
ammunition, and desired to go forward as speedily as 
possible, to the part where the reindeer were expect- 
to be found ; and to return to us with any provision 
they could procure. He also assured us that in our 
advance towards them we should come to lakes abound- 
ing in fish. Many of the Indians, being also in dis- 
tress for food, decided on separating from us, and 
going on at a quicker pace than we could travel. 

Akaitcho himself was always furnished with a por- 
tion at our meals, as a token of regard which the trad- 
ers have taught the chiefs to expect, and which we 
willingly paid. 

The next morning we crossed a small lake and a 
portage, before we entered the river ; shortly after- 
wards, the canoes and cargoes were carried a mile along 

its banks to avoid three very strong rapids, and over 

6 



122 Thirty Years 



another portage into a narrow lake ; we encamped on 
an island" in the middle of it, to set the nets ; but 
they only yielded a few fish, and we had a very scanty 
supper ; as it was necessary to deal out our provision 
sparingly. 

We had the mortification of finding the nets en- 
tirely empty next morning, an untoward circumstance 
that discouraged our voyagers very much ; and they 
complained of being unable to support the fatigue to 
which they were daily exposed, on their present scanty 
fare. We had seen with regret that the portages were 
more frequent as we advanced to the northward, and 
feared that their strength would fail, if provision were 
not soon obtained. We embarked at six, proceeded 
to the head of the lake, and crossed a portage of two 
thousand five hundred paces, leading over ridges of 
sand-hills, which nourished pines of a larger size than 
we had lately seen. This conducted us to Mossy 
Lake, from whence we regained the river, after travers- 
ing another portage. The Birch and Poplar Porta- 
ges next followed, and beyond these we came to a part 
where the river takes a great circuit, and its course is 
interrupted by several heavy falls. The guide, there- 
fore, advised us to quit it, and proceed through a 
chain of nine lakes extending to the north-east, which 
we did, and encamped on Icy Portage, where the nets 
were set The bottom of the valley, through which 



In the Arctic Regions. 123 

the track across this portage led, was covered with ice 
four or five feet thick, the remains of a large iceberg, 
which is annually formed there, by the snow drifting 
into the valley, and becoming consolidated into ice by 
the overflowing of some springs that are warm enough 
to resist the winter's cold. 

We were alarmed in the night by our fire commu- 
nicating to the dry moss, which spreading by the force 
of a strong wind, encircled the encampment and 
threatened destruction to our canoes and baggage. 
The watch immediately aroused all the men, who 
quickly removed whatever could be injured to a dis- 
tant part, and afterward succeeded in extinguishing 
the flame. 

Aug. 8. — During this day we crossed five portages, 
passing over a very bad road. The men were quite 
exhausted with fatigue by five P.M., when we were 
obliged to encamp on the borders of the fifth lake, in 
which the fishing-nets were set. We began this eve- 
ning to issue some portable soup and arrow- root, 
which our companions relished very much ; but this 
food is too unsubstantial to support their vigor under 
their daily exhausting labor, and we could not fur- 
nish them with a sufficient quantity even of this to 
satisfy their desires. We commenced our labors on 
the next day in a very wet, uncomfortable state, as it 
had rained through the night until 4 A.M. The fifth 



124 Thirty Years 



grassy lake was crossed, and four others, with their in- 
tervening portages, and we returned to the river by a 
portage of one thousand four hundred and fifteen 
paces. The width of the stream here is about one 
hundred yards, its banks are moderately high, and 
scantily covered with wood. We afterwards twice 
carried the cargoes along its banks to avoid a very 
stony rapid, and then crossed the first Carp portage, 
and encamped on the borders of Lower Carp Lake. 

The chief having told us that this was a good lake 
for fishing, we determined on halting for a day or two 
to recruit our men, of whom three were lame, and sev- 
eral others had swelled legs. The chief himself went 
forward to look after the hunters, and he promised to 
make a fire as a signal if they had killed any reindeer. 
All the Indians had left us in the course of yesterday 
and to-day to seek these animals, except the guide 
Keskarrah. 

Aug. 10. — The nets furnishing only four carp, we 
embarked for the purpose of searching for a better spot, 
and encamped again on the shores of the same lake. 
The spirits of the men were much revived by seeing 
some recent traces of reindeer at this place, which 
circumstance caused them to cherish the hope of soon 
getting a supply of meat from the hunters. They 
were also gratified by finding abundance of blue ber- 
ries near to the encampment, which made an agreeable 



In the Arctic Regions. 125 



and substantia] addition to their otherwise scanty fare. 
We were teased by the sand-flies this evening, al- 
though the thermometer did not rise above 45°. The 
country through which we have traveled for some days 
consists principally of granite, intermixed in some 
spots with mica slate, often passing into clay-slate. 
But the borders of Lower Carp Lake, where the gneiss 
formation prevails, are composed of hills, having less 
altitude, fewer precipices, and more rounded summits. 
The valleys are less fertile, containing a gravelly soil 
and fewer trees ; so. that the country has throughout 
a more barren aspect. 

Aug. 11. — Having caught sufficient trout, white 
fish, and carp, yesterday and this morning, to afford 
the party two hearty meals, and the men being re- 
covered of their fatigue, we proceeded on our journey, 
crossed the Upper Carp Portage, and embarked on 
the lake of that name, where we had the gratification 
of paddling for ten miles. We put up at its termina- 
tion to fish, by the advice of our guide. At this place 
we first perceived the north end of our dipping-needle 
to pass the perpendicular line when the instrument 
was faced to the west. 

We had scarcely quitted the encampment next day 
before an Indian met us, with the agreeable commu- 
nication, that the hunters had made several fires, 
which were certain indications of their having killed 



126 Thirty Years 



reindeer. This intelligence inspired our companions 
with fresh energy, and they quickly traversed the next 
portage, and paddled through the Keindeer Lake ; 
at the north side of it we found the canoes of our 
hunters, and learned from our guide that the Indians 
usually leave their canoes here, as the water commu- 
nication on their hunting grounds is bad. The Yel- 
low-Knife Kiverhas now dwindled into an insignificant 
rivulet, and we could not trace it beyond the next 
lake, except as a mere brook. The latitude of its 
source 64° V 30" K, longitude 113° 36' W., and its 
length is one hundred and fifty-six statute miles. 
Though this river is of sufficient breadth and depth 
for navigating in canoes, yet I conceive its course is 
too much interrupted by cascades and rapids for its 
ever being used as a channel for the conveyance ot 
merchandize. Whilst the crews were employed in 
making a portage over the foot of Prospect Hill, we 
ascended to the top of it, and as it is the highest 
ground in the neighborhood, its summit, which is 
about five hundred feet above the water, commands 
an extensive view. 

Akaitcho, who was here with his family, pointed 
out to us the smoke of the distant fires which the 
hunters had made. The prospect from the hill is 
agreeably diversified by an intermixture of hill and 
valley, and the appearance of twelve lakes in different 



In the Arctic Regions, 127 

directions. On the borders of these lakes a few thin 
pine groves occur, but the country in general is desti- 
tute of almost every vegetable, except a few berry- 
bearing shrubs and lichens, and has a very barren 
aspect. The hills are composed of gneiss, but their 
acclivities are covered with a coarse gravelly soil. 
There are many loose stones both on their summits 
and acclivities, composed of the same materials as 
solid rock. 

We crossed another lake in the evening, encamped, 
and set the nets. The chief made a large fire to 
announce our situation to the hunters. 

August 13. — We caught twenty fish this morning, 
but they were small, and furnished but a scanty break- 
fast for the party. Whilst this meal was preparing, 
our Canadian voyagers, who had been for some days 
past murmuring at their meagre diet, and striving to 
get the whole of our little provision to consume at 
once, broke out into open discontent, and several of 
them threatened they would not proceed forward unless 
more food was given to them. This conduct was the 
more unpardonable, as they saw we were rapidly ap- 
proaching the fires of the hunters, and that pro- 
vision might soon be expected. I therefore felt the 
duty incumbent on me, to address them in the 
strongest manner on the danger of insubordination, 
ond to assure them of my determination to inflict the 



128 Thirty Years 



heaviest punishment on any that should persist in 
their refusal to go on, or in any other way attempt to 
retard the Expedition. I considered this decisive 
step necessary, having learned from the gentlemen 
most intimately acquainted with the character of the 
Canadian voyagers, that they invariably try how far 
they can impose upon every new master with whom 
they may serve, and that they will continue to be 
disobedient and intractable if they once gain any 
ascendency over him. I must admit, however, that 
the present hardships of our companions were of a kind 
which few could support without murmuring, and no 
one could witness without feeling a sincere pity for 
their sufferings. 

After this discussion we went forward until sunset. 
In the course of the day we crossed seven lakes and 
as many portages. Just as we had encamped, we 
were delighted to see four of the hunters arrive, with 
the flesh of two reindeer. This seasonable supply, 
though only sufficient for this evening's and the next 
day's consumption, instantly revived the spirits of our 
companions, and they immediately forgot all their 
cares. As we did not, after this period, experience 
any deficiency of food during this journey, they worked 
extremely well, and never again reflected upon us as 
they had done before, for rashly bringing them into an 
inhospitable country, where the means of subsistence 
could not be procured. 



In tin Arctic Regions. 129 

Several blue fish, resembling the grayling, were 
caught in a stream which flows out of Hunter's Lake. 
It is remarkable for the largeness of its dorsal fins, 
and the beauty of its colors. 

August 14. — Having crossed the Hunter's Portage, 
we entered the lake of the same name, but soon quitted 
it by desire of the Indian guide, and diverged more to 
the eastward, that we might get into the line upon 
which our hunters had gone. This was the only con- 
sideration that could have induced us to remove to a 
chain of small lakes, connected by long portages. We 
crossed three of these, and then were obliged to en- 
camp to rest the men. 

After starting we first crossed the Orkney Lake, 
then a portage which brought us to Sandy Lake, and 
here we missed one of our barrels of powder, which 
the steersman of the canoe then recollected had been 
left yesterday. He and two other men were sent back 
to search for it, in the small canoe. The rest of the 
party proceeded to the portage on the north side of 
the Grizzle-Bear Lake, where the hunters had made 
a deposit of meat, and there encamped to await 
their return, which happened at nine P. M. with the 
powder. 

On August the 17th, having finished drying the 
meat, which had been retarded by the heavy showers 

of rain that fell in the morning, we embarked at one 

6* 



130 Thirty Years 

P. M. and crossed two lakes and two portages. The 
last of these w&s two thousand and sixty-six paces 
long, and very rugged, so that the men were much 
fatigued. On the next day we received the flesh of 
four reindeer by the small canoe which had been sent 
for it yesterday, and heard that the hunters had kill- 
ed several more deer on our route. We saw many of 
those animals as we passed along to-day ; and our 
companions, delighted with the prospect of having 
food in abundance, now began to accompany their pad- 
dling with singing, which they had discontinued ever 
since our provisions became scarce. 

Aug. 19.— After crossing a portage of five hundred 
and ninety-five paces, a small lake and another portage 
of two thousand paces, which occupied the crews seven 
hours, we embarked on a small stream, running to- 
wards the north-west, which carried us to the lake, 
where Akaitcho proposed that we should pass the win- 
ter. The officers ascended several of the loftiest hills 
in the course of the day, prompted by a natural 
anxiety to examine the spot which was to be their 
residence for many months. The prospect, however, 
was not then the most agreeable, as the borders of 
the lake seemed to be scantily furnished with wood, 
and that of a kind too small for the purposes of 
building. 

We perceived the smoke of a distant fire which the 



In the Arctic Regions. 131 

Indians supposed had been made by some of the Dog- 
ribbed tribe, who occasionally visit, this part of the 
country. 

Embarking at seven next morning, we paddled to 
the western extremity of the lake, and there found a 
small river, which flows out of it to the S.W. To 
avoid a strong rapid at its commencement, we made a 
portage, and then crossed to the north bank of the 
river, where the Indians recommended that the winter 
establishment should be erected, and we soon found 
that the situation they had chosen possessed all the 
advantages we could have desired. The trees were 
numerous, and of a far greater size than we had sup- 
posed them to be yesterday — some of the pines being 
thirty or forty feet high, and two feet in diameter at 
the root. We determined on placing the house on the 
summit of the bank, which commands a beautiful 
prospect of the surrounding country. The view in 
the front is bounded at the distance of three miles, by 
round-backed hills ; to the eastward and westward lie 
the Winter and round- rock Lakes, which are connect- 
ed by the Winter Kiver, whose banks are well ciothed 
with pines, and ornamented with a profusion of mos- 
ses, lichens, and shrubs. 

In the afternoon we read divine service, and offered 
our thanksgiving to the Almighty for his goodness in 
having brought us thus far on our journey ; a duty 



132 Thirty Years 



which we never neglected, when stationary on the sab- 
bath. 

The united length of the portages we have crossed, 
since leaving Fort Providence, is twenty-one statute 
miles and a half ; and as our men had to traverse 
each portage four times, with a load of one hundred 
and eighty pounds, and return three times light, they 
walked in the whole upwards of one hundred and fifty 
miles. The total length of our voyage from Chipew- 
yan is five hundred and fifty three-miles.* 

A fire was made on the south side of the river to 
inform the chief of our arrival, which spreading before 
a strong wind, caught the whole wood, and we were 
completely enveloped in a cloud of smoke for the three 
followiDg days. 

On the next morning our voyagers were divided into 
two parties, the one to cut the wood for the building 
of a store house, and the other to fetch the meat as 
fast as the hunters procured it. An interpreter was 
sent with Keskarrah, the guide, to search for the In- 
dians who had made the fire seen on Saturday, from 
whom we might obtain some supplies of provision. 

Statute Miles. 

* Stony and Slave Rivers- 260 

Slave Lake 107 

Yellow-Knife River - 156.5 

Barren country between the source of the Yellow- 
Knife River and Fort Enterprise - 29.5 

558 



In the Arctic Regions. 133 

An Indian was also despatched to Akaitcho, with di- 
rections for him to come hither directly^ and bring 
whatever provision he had, as we were desirous of pro- 
ceeding, without delay, to the Copper-Mine Kiver, 
In the evening our men brought in the carcasses of 
seven reindeer, which two hunters had shot j^ester- 
day, and the women commenced drying the meat for 
our journey. We also obtained a good supply of fish 
from our nets to-day. 

A heavy rain, on the 23d, prevented the men from 
working, either at the building, or going for meat ; 
but on the next day the weather was fine, and they 
renewed their labors. The thermometer, that day, 
did not rise higher than 42°, and it fell to 31° before 
midnight. On the morning of the 25th, we were sur- 
prised by some early symptoms of the approach of 
winter ; the small pools were frozen over, and a flock 
of geese passed to the southward. In the afternoon, 
however, a fog came on, which afterwards changed into 
rain, and the ice quickly disappeared. We suffered 
great anxiety all the next day respecting John Hep- 
burn, who had gone to hunt before sunrise on the 25 th, 
and been absent ever since. About four hours after 
his departure the wind changed, and a dense fog ob- 
scured every mark by which his course to the tents 
could be directed, and we thought it probable he had 
been wandering in an opposite direction to our situa- 



134 Thirty Tears 



tion, as the two hunters, who had been sent out to 
look for him, returned at sunset without having seen 
him. Akaitcho arrived with his party, and we were 
greatly disappointed at finding they had stored up 
only fifteen reindeer for us. St. Germain informed us, 
that having heard of the death of the chiefs brother- 
in-law, they had spent several days in bewailing his 
loss, instead of hunting. We learned also, that the 
decease of this man had caused another party of the 
tribe, who had been sent by Mr. Wentzel to prepare 
provision for us on the banks of the Copper-Mine 
River, to remove to the shores of the Great Bear Lake, 
distant from our proposed route. Mortifying as these 
circumstances were, they produced less painful sensa- 
tions than we experienced in the evening, by the re- 
fusal of Akaitcho to accompany us in the proposed de- 
scent of the Copper Mine River. When Mr. Wentzel, 
by my direction, communicated to him my intention 
of proceeding at once on that service, he desired a con- 
ference with me upon the subject, which being imme- 
diately granted, he began by stating, that the very 
attempt would be rash and dangerous, as the weather 
was cold, the leaves were falling, some geese had 
passed to the southward, and the win ter would shortly 
set in ; and that, as he considered the lives of all who 
went on such a journey would be forfeited, he neither 
would go himself, nor permit his hunters to accompany 



In the Arctic Regions. 135 



us. He said there was no wood within eleven days' 
march, during which time we could not have any fire, 
as the moss, which the Indians use in their summer 
excursions, would be too wet for burning, in conse* 
quence of the recent rains ; that we should be forty 
days in descending the Copper- Mine Kiver, six of 
which would be expended in getting to its banks, and 
that we might be blocked up by the -ice in the next 
moon ; and during the whole journey the party must 
experience great suffering for want of food, as the 
reindeer had already left the river. 

He was now reminded that these statements were 
very different from the account he had given, both at 
Port Providence and on the route hither ; and that 
up to this moment, we had been encouraged by hi? 
conversation to expect that the party might descend 
the Copper-Mine Eiver, accompanied by the Indians. 
He replied, that at the former place he had been un- 
acquainted with our slow mode of traveling, and that 
the alteration, in his opinion, arose from the advance 
of winter. 

We now informed him, that we were provided 
with instruments by which we could ascertain the 
state of the air and water, and that we did not ima- 
gine the winter to be so near as he supposed ; how- 
ever, we promised to return on discovering the first 
change in the season. He was also told that all the 



136 Thirty Years 



baggage being left behind, our canoes would now, of 
course, travel infinitely more expeditiously than any 
thing he had hitherto witnessed. Akaitcho appeared 
to feel hurt, that we should continue to press the 
matter further, and answered with some warmth : 
" Well, I have said everything I can urge, to dissuade 
you from going on this service, on which it seems, you 
wish to sacrifice your own lives, as well as the Indians 
who might attend you : however, if after all I have 
said, you are determined to go, some of my young men 
shall join the party, because it shall not be said, that 
we permitted you to die alone after having brought 
you hither ; but from the moment they embark in the 
canoes, I and my relatives shall lament them as dead." 

We could only reply to this forcible appeal, by 
assuring him and the Indians who were seated around 
him, that we felt the most anxious solicitude for the 
safety of every individual, and that it was far from 
our intention to proceed without considering every 
argument for and against the proposed journey. 

We next informed him, that it would be very de- 
sirable to see the river at any rate, that we might 
give some positive information about its situation and 
size, in our next letters to the great chief ; and that 
we were very anxious to get on its banks for the pur- 
pose of observing an eclipse of the sun, which we 
described to him, and said would happen in a few 



In the Arctic Regions. 137 

t tys. He received this communication with more 
temper than the preceding, though he immediately 
assigned as a reason for his declining to go, that " the 
Indians must now procure a sufficient quantity of 
deer-skins for winter clothing for themselves, and 
dresses for the Canadians, who would need them if 
they had to travel in the winter." Finding him so 
averse to proceed, and feeling, at the same time, how 
essential his continuance with us was, not only to our 
future success, but even to our existence during the 
winter ; I closed the conversation here, intending to 
propose to him next morning some modification of the 
plan, which might meet his approbation. Soon after 
we were gone, however, he informed Mr. Wentzel, 
with whom he was in the habit of speaking confi- 
dentially, that as his advice was neglected, his presence 
was useless, and he should, therefore, return to Fort 
Providence with his hunters, after he had collected 
some winter provision for us. Mr. Wentzel having 
reported this to me, the night was passed in great 
anxiety, and after weighing all the arguments that 
presented themselves to my mind, I came reluctantly 
to the determination of relinquishing the intention of 
going any distance down the river this season. 

The month of September commenced with very 
disagreeable weather. The temperature of the atmos- 
phere ranged between 39° and 31° during the first 



138 Thirty Tears 



three days, and that of the water in the river de- 
creased from 49° to 44°. 

In the afternoon of September the 6th, we removed 
our tent to the summit of a hill, about three miles 
distant, for the better observing the eclipse, which 
was calculated to occur on the next morning. We 
were prevented, however, from witnessing it by a 
heavy snow-storm, and the only observation we could 
then make was to examine whether the temperature 
of the atmosphere altered during the eclipse, but we 
found that both the mercurial and spirit thermometers 
remained steadily at 30° for a quarter of an hour 
previous to its commencement, during its continuance, 
and for half an hour subsequent to its termination ; 
we remarked the wind increased very much, and the 
snow fell in heavier flakes just after the estimated 
time of its commencement. This boisterous weather 
continued until three P.M., when the wind abated, 
and the snow changed to rain. 

The men continued to work diligently at the house, 
and by the 30th of September had nearly completed 
it for our reception, when a heavy fall of rain washed 
the greater part of the mud off the roof. This rain 
was remarked by the Indians as unusual, after what 
they had deemed so decided a commencement of winter 
in the early part of the month. The mean temper- 
ature for the month was 33M°, but the thermometer had 
sunk as low as 16°, and on one occasion risen to 53°. 



In the Arctic Regions. 139 



OHAPTEE VI. 

On the 6th of October, the house being completed , 
we struck our tents, and removed into it. It was 
merely a log building, fifty feet long, and twenty-four 
wide, divided into a hall, three bed-rooms, and a 
kitchen. The walls and roof were plastered with 
clay, the floors laid with planks rudely squared with 
the hatchet, and the windows closed with parchment 
of deerskin. The clay, which, from the coldness of 
the weather, required to be tempered before the fire 
with hot water, froze as it was daubed on, and after- 
wards cracked in such a manner as to admit the wind 
from every quarter ; yet, compared with the tents, 
our new habitation appeared comfortable ; and having 
filled our capacious clay-built chimney with fagots, 
we spent a cheerful evening before the invigorating 
blaze. The change was peculiarly beneficial to Dr. 
Richardson, who having, in one of his excursions, 
incautiously laid down on the frozen side of a hill 
when heated with walking, had caught a severe in- 



140 Thirty Years 



flammatory sore throat, which became daily worse 
whilst we remained in the tents, hut began to amend 
soon after he was enabled to confine himself to the 
more equable warmth of the house. We took up our 
abode at first on the floor, but our working party, who 
had shewn such skill as house-carpenters, soon proved 
themselves to be, with the same tools, the hatchet 
and crooked knife, excellent cabinet-makers, and 
daily added a table, a chair, or bedstead, to the com- 
forts of our establishment. 

On the 1st of December the sky was clear, a slight 
appearance of stratus only being visible near the hori- 
zon ; but a kind of snow fell at intervals in the fore- 
noon, its particles so minute as to be observed only in 
the sunshine. Towards noon the snow became more 
apparent, and the two limbs of a prismatic arch were 
visible, one on each side of the sun near its place in 
the heavens, the centre being deficient. We have 
frequently observed this descent of minute icy spiculge 
when the sky appears perfectly clear, and could even 
perceive that its silent, but continued action, added 
to the snowy covering of the ground. 

Having received one hundred balls from Fort Provi- 
dence by Belanger, we distributed them among the 
Indians, informing the leader at the same time, that 
the residence of so large a party as his at the house, 
amounting, with women and children, to forty souls, 



In the Arctic Regions. 141 

was producing a serious reduction in our stock of 
provisions. 

As it may be interesting to the reader to know how 
we passed our time at this season of the year. I shall 
mention briefly, that a considerable portion of it was 
occupied in writing up our journals. Some newspa- 
pers and magazines, that we had received from Eng- 
land with our letters, were read again and again, and 
commented upon, at our meals ; and we often exer- 
cised ourselves with conjecturing the changes that 
might take place in the world before we could hear 
from it again. The probability of our receiving let- 
ters, and the period of their arrival, were calculated to 
a nicety. We occasionally paid the woodmen a visit, 
or took a walk for a mile or two on the river. 

In the evenings we joined the men in the hall, and 
took a part in their games, which generally continued 
to a late hour ; in short, we never found the time to 
hang heavy upon our hands ; and the peculiar occu- 
pations of each of the officers afforded them more em- 
ployment than might at first be supposed. I re-cal- 
culated the observations made on our route ; Mr. 
Hood protracted the charts, and made those drawings 
of birds, plants, and fishes, which cannot appear in 
this work, but which have been the admiration of every 
one who has seen them. Each of the party sedulous- 
ly and separately recorded their observations on the 



142 Thirty Years 



aurora, and Dr. Kichardson contrived to obtain from 
under the snow specimens of most of the lichens in the 
neighborhood, and to make himself acquainted with 
the mineralogy of the surrounding country. 

The Sabbath was always a day of rest with us ; the 
woodmen were required to provide for the exigencies 
of that day on Saturday, and the party were dressed in 
their best attire. Divine service was regularly per- 
formed, and the Canadians attended, and behaved 
with great decorum, although they were all Eoman 
Catholics, and but little acquainted with the language 
in which the prayers were read. I regretted much that 
we had not a French prayer-book, but the Lord's 
Prayer and Creed were always read to them in their 
own language. 

Our diet consisted almost entirely of the reindeer 
meat, varied twice a week by fish, and occasionally by 
a little flour, but we had no vegetables of any descrip- 
tion. On the Sunday mornings we drauk a cup ot 
chocolate, but our greatest luxury was tea (without 
sugar), of which we regularly partook twice a day. 
With reindeer's fat, and strips of cotton shirts, we 
formed candles ; and Hepburn acquired considerable 
skill in the manufacture of soap, from wood- ashes, fat, 
and salt. The formation of soap was considered as 
rather a mysterious operation by our Canadians, and, 
in their hands, was always supposed to fail if a woman 



In the Arctic Regions. 143 



approached the kettle in which the ley was boiling. 
Such are our simple domestic details. 

On the 30th, two hunters came from the leader, to 
convey ammunition to him, as soon as our men should 
bring it from Fort Providence. 

The men, at this time, coated the walls of the 
house on the outside, with a thin mixture of clay and 
water, which formed a crust of ice, that, for some 
days, proved impervious to the air ; the dryness of the 
atmosphere, however, was such, that the ice in a short 
time evaporated, and gave admission to the wind as 
before. It is a general custom at the forts to give 
this sort of coating to the walls at Christmas time. 
When it was gone we attempted to remedy its defect, 
by heaping up snow against the walls. 

jan 21 L This morning our men collected, and greeted us 
with the customary salutation on the commencement 
of the New Year. That they might enjoy a holiday, 
they had yesterday collected double the usual quantity 
of fire- wood, and we anxiously expected the arrival of 
the men from Fort Providence, with some additions to 
their comforts. We were led the more readily to hope 
for their arrival before the evening,, as we knew that 
every voyager uses his utmost endeavor to reach a post 
upon, or previous to, the jour de Van, that he may 
partake of the wonted festivities. It forms the theme 
of their conversation for months before and after the 



144 Thirty Years 



period of its arrivaL On the present occasion we 
could only treat them with a little flour and fat; 
these were both considered as great luxuries, but still 
the feast was defective from the want of rum, although 
we promised them a little when it should arrive. 

The early part of January proved mild, the ther- 
mometer rose to 20° above zero, and we were surpris- 
ed by the appearance of a kind of damp fog approach- 
ing very nearly to rain. The Indians expressed their 
astonishment at this circumstance, and declared the 
present to be one of the warmest winters they had ever 
experienced. Some of them reported that it had ac- 
tually rained in the woody parts of the country. In 
the latter part of the month, however, the thermome- 
ter again descended to — 49°, and the mean temper- 
ature for the month proved to be — 15.6°. Owing to 
the fogs that obscured the sky, the aurora was visible 
only upon eighteen nights in the month. 

On the 15th seven of our men arrived from Fort 
Providence with two kegs of rum, one barrel of pow- 
der, sixty pounds of ball, two rolls of tobacco, and 
some clothing. They had been twenty-one days on 
their march from Slave Lake, and the labor they un- 
derwent was sufficiently evinced by their sledge-collars 
having worn out the shoulders of their coats. Their 
loads weighed from sixty to ninety pounds each, exr 
elusive of their bedding and provisions, which at start- 



In the Artie Regions, 146 

ins: must have been at least as much more. We were 
much rejoiced at their arrival, and proceeded forthwith 
to pierce the spirit cask, and issue to each of the 
household the portion of rum which had been promis- 
ed to them on the first day of the year. The spirits, 
which were proof, were frozen, but after standing at 
the fire for some time, they flowed out of the consis- 
tency of honey. The temperature of the liquid, even 
in this state, was so low as instantly to convert into 
ice the moisture which condensed on the surface of the 
dram-glass. The fingers also adhered to the glass, 
and would, doubtless, have been speedily frozen had 
they been kept in contact with it, yet each of the 
voyagers swallowed his dram without experiencing the 
slightest inconvenience, or complaining even of the 
tooth-ach. 

The temperature in February was considerably low- 
er than in the preceding month, although not so low 
as in December, the mean being — 25.3°. The great- 
est temperature was 1° above zero, and the lowest 51° 
below. 

On the 5th of March the people returned from Slave 

Lake, bringing the remainder of our stores, consisting 

of a cask of flour, thirty-six pounds of sugar, a roll of 

tobacco, and forty pounds of tobacco. 1 received a 

letter from Mr. Weeks, wherein he denied that he had 

ever circulated any reports to our disadvantage ; and 

7 



146 Thirty Years 

stated that he had done every thing in his power to 
assist us, and even discouraged Akaitcho from leaving 
us. when he had sent him a message, saying, that he 
wished to do so, if he was sure of being well received 
at Fort Providence. 

On the 29th Akaitcho arrived at the house, having 
been sent for to make some arrangements respecting 
the procuring of provision, and that we might learn 
from him what his sentiments were with regard to ac- 
companying us on our future journey. Next morning 
we had a conference, which I commenced by shewing 
him the charts and drawings that were prepared to be 
sent to England, and explaining fully our future in- 
tentions. He appeared much pleased at this mark of 
attention, and, when his curiosity was satisfied, began 
his speech by saying, that " although a vast number 
of idle rumors had been floating about the barren 
grounds during the winter," yet he was convinced that 
the representations that had been made to him at Fort 
Providence regarding the purport of the Expedition 
were perfectly correct. I next pointed out to him the 
necessity of our proceeding with as little delay as pos- 
sible during the short period of the year that was fit 
for our operations, and that to do so it was requisite 
we should have a large supply of provisions at starting. 

On the 7th of May, Dr. Kichardson returned from 
his excursion. He informed me that the reindeer were 



In the Arctic Regions, 147 



again advancing to the northward, but that the leader 
had been joined by several families of old people, and 
that the daily consumption of provision at the Indian 
tents was consequently great. This information exci- 
ted some painful apprehensions of being very scantily 
provided when the period for our departure should arrive. 

The weather in the beginning of May was fine and 
warm. On the 2d some patches of sandy ground near 
the house were cleared of snow. On the 7th the sides 
of the hills began to appear bare, and on the 8th a 
large house-fly was seen. This interesting event 
spread cheerfulness through our residence and formed 
a topic of conversation for the rest of the day. 

Dr. Richardson and Mr. Back having visited the 
country to the northward of the Slave Rock, and 
reported that they thought we might travel over it, 
I signified my intention of sending the first party off 
on Monday the 4th of June. I was anxious to get the 
Indians to move on before, but they lingered about 
the house, evidently with the intention of picking up 
such articles as we might deem unnecessary to take. 
When Akaitcho was made acquainted with my pur- 
pose of sending away a party of men, he came to in- 
form me that he would appoint two hunters to accom- 
pany them, and at the same time requested that Dr, 
Richardson, or as he called him, the Medicine Ghiei^ 
might be sent with his own band. 



148 Thirty Years 

On the 7th the wind changing to the southward, 
dispersed the clouds which had obscured the sky for 
several days, and produced a change of temperature 
under which the snow rapidly disappeared. The 
thermometer rose to 73°, many flies came forth, mus- 
quitoes shewed themselves for the first time, and one 
swallow made its appearance. "We were the more 
gratified with these indications of summer, that St. 
Germain was enabled to commence upon the repair of 
the canoes, and before night had completed the two 
which had received the least injury. Augustus killed 
two deer to-day. 

On the 10th the dip of the magnetic needle being 
observed, shewed a decrease of 22' 44", since last 
autumn. The repairs of the third canoe were finished 
this evening. 

The snow was now confined to the bases of the hills, 
and our Indian hunter told us the season was early. 
The operations of nature, however, seemed to us very 
tardy. We were eager to be gone, and dreaded the 
lapse of summer, before the Indians would allow it 
had begun. 

On the 11th the geese and ducks had left the 
vicinity of Fort Enterprize, and proceeded to the 
northward. Some young ravens and whiskey-johns 
made their appearance at this time. 

On the 12th, Winter Kiver was nearly cleared of 



In the Arctic Regions. 149 

ice, and on the 13th the men returned, having left Dr. 
Kichardson on the borders of Point Lake. Dr. Eich- 
ardson informed me by letter that the snow was deeper 
in many parts near his encampment than it had been 
at any time last winter near Fort Enterprize, and 
that the ice on Point Lake had scarcely begun to 
decay. Although the voyagers were much fatigued 
on their arrival, and had eaten nothing for the last 
twenty- four hours, they were very cheerful, and ex- 
pressed a desire to start with the remainder of the 
stores next morning. 



150 Thirty Years 



CHAPTER VII 



1821 
June 



\ L The trains for the canoes having been fin- 
ished during the night, the party attached to them 
eommenced their journey at ten this morning. Each 
canoe was dragged by four men assisted by two dogs. 
They took the route of Winter Lake, with the inten- 
tion of following, although more circuitous, the water- 
course as far as 'practicable, it being safer for the 
canoes than traveling over land. After their de- 
parture, the remaining stores, the instruments, and 
our small stock of dried meat, amounting only to 
eighty pounds, were distributed equally among Hep- 
burn, three Canadians, and the two Esquimaux ; with 
this party and two Indian hunters, we quitted Fort 
Enterprize, most sincerely rejoicing that the long- 
wished for day had arrived, when we were to proceed 
towards the final object of the Expedition. 

We left in one of the rooms a box, containing a 
journal of the occurrences up to this date, the charts, 
and some drawings, which was to be conveyed to Fort 



In the Arctic Begions. 151 

Chipewyan by Mr. Wentzel, on his return from the 
sea, and from thence to be sent to England. The 
room was blocked up, and, by the advice of Mr. 
Wentzel, a drawing representing a man holding a 
dagger in a threatening attitude, was affixed to the 
door, to deter any Indians from breaking it open. 
We directed our course towards the Dog-rib Bock, 
but as our companions were loaded with the weight of 
near one hundred and eighty pounds weight each, we 
of necessity proceeded at a slow pace. The day was 
extremely warm, and the musquitoes, whose attacks 
had hitherto been feeble, issued forth in swarms from 
the marshes, and were very tormenting. Having 
walked five miles we encamped near a small cluster of 
pines about two miles from the Dog-rib Rock. The 
canoe party had not been seen since they set out. 
Our hunters went forward to Marten Lake, intending 
to wait for us at a place where two deer were de- 
posited. At nine P. M. the temperature of the air 
vas 63°. 

We resumed our march at an early hour, and 
' rossed several lakes which lay in our course, as the 
' ce enabled the men to drag their burdens on trains 
:.brmed of sticks and deers' horns, with more ease than 
they could carry them on their backs. We were kept 
constantly wet by this operation, as the ice had 
broken near the shores of the lakes, but this incon- 



152 Thirty Years 



venience was not regarded, as the day was unusually 
warm ; the temperature at two P. M. being 82}^°. 
At Marten Lake we joined the canoe party, and en- 
camped with them. We had the mortification of 
learning from our hunters that the meat they had put 
en cache here, had been destroyed by the wolverenes, 
and we had in consequence, to furnish the supper 
from our scanty stock of dried meat. The wind 
changed from S.E. to N.E. in the evening, and the 
weather became very cold, the thermometer being 43° 
at nine P.M. The few dwaif birches we could collect 
afforded fire insufficient to keep us warm, and we 
retired under the covering of our blankets as soon as 
the supper was despatched. The N.E. breeze ren- 
dered the night so extremely cold, that we procured 
but little sleep, having neither fire nor shelter, for 
though we carried our tents, we had been forced to 
leave the tent poles which we could not now replace ; 
we therefore gladly recommenced the journey at five 
in the morning, and traveled through the remaining 
part of the lake on the ice. Its surface being quite 
smooth, the canoes were dragged along expeditiously 
by the dogs, and the rest of the party had to walk 
very quick to keep pace with them, which occasioned 
them to get many heavy falls. By the time we had 
reached the end of the lake, the wind had increased to 
a perfect gale, and the atmosphere was so cold that 



In the Arctic Begions. 15b 

wt x)uld not proceed with the canoes further without 
the. fisk of breaking the bark and seriously injuring 
thei^a, we therefore crossed Winter River in them, and 
put up on a ridge of sand hills in a well sheltered 
plac< : But as the stock of provision was scanty, we 
detei£iiiiod on proceeding as quick as possible, and 
leaving the canoe party under the charge of Mr. 
Wentzel. We parted from them in the afternoon, 
and first dxiected our course towards a range of hills, 
where we expected to find Antonio Fontano, who had 
separated fiom us in the morning. In crossing to- 
wards these hills I fell through the ice into the lake, 
with my bundle on my shoulders, but was soon extri- 
cated without receiving any injury ; and Mr. Back, 
who left us to go in search of the straggler, met with 
a similar accident in the evening. We put up on a 
ridge of sand hills, where we found some pines, and 
made a large fire to apprise Mr. Back and Fontano of 
our situation. St. Germain having killed a deer in 
the afternoon, we received an acceptable supply of 
meat. The night was stormy and very cold. 

At five next morning our men were sent in different 
directions after our absent companions, but as the 
weather was foggy, we despaired of finding them unless 
they should chance to hear the muskets our people 
were desired to fire. They returned, however, at ten, 
bringing intelligence of them. I went immediately 

7* 



154 Thirty Years 



with Heburn to join Mr. Back, and directed Mr. Hood 
to proceed with the Canadians, and halt with them at 
a spot where the hunters had killed a deer. Though 
Mr. Back was much fatigued, he set off with me im- 
mediately, and in the evening we rejoined our friends 
on the borders of the Big Lake. The Indians inform- 
ed us that Fontano only remained a few hours with 
them, and then continued his journey. We had to 
oppose a violent gale and frequent snow storms 
through the day, which unseasonable weather caused 
the temperature to descend below the freezing point 
this evening. The situation of our encampment being 
bleak, and our fuel stunted green willows, we passed 
a very cold and uncomfortable night. 

June 18. — Though the breeze was moderate this 
morning, the atmosphere was piercingly keen. When 
on the point of starting, we perceived Mr. Wentzel's 
party coming, and awaited his arrival to learn whether 
the canoes had received any injury during the severe 
weather of yesterday. Finding that they had not, we 
proceeded to get upon the ice on the lake, which could 
not be effected without walking up to the waist in 
water, for some distance from its borders. We had 
not the command of our feet in this situation, and the 
men fell often ; poor Junius broke through the ice 
with his heavy burden on his back, but fortunately 
was not hurt, 



In the Arctic Regions. 155 

This lake is extensive, and large arms branch from 
its main course in different directions. At these parts 
we crossed the projecting points of laud, and on each 
occasion had to wade as before, which so wearied every 
one, that we rejoiced when we reached its north side 
and encamped, though our resting-place was a bare 
rock. We had the happiness of finding Fontano at 
this place. The poor fellow had passed the three pre- 
ceding days without tasting food, and was exhausted 
by anxiety and hunger. His sufferings were consider- 
ed to have been a sufficient punishment for his impru- 
dent conduct in separating from us, and we only ad- 
monished him to be more cautious in future. 

Having received information that the hunters had 
killed a deer, we sent three men to fetch the meat, 
which was distributed between our party, and the 
canoe men who had been encamped near to us. The 
thermometer at three P.M. was 46°, and at nine 34°. 

We commenced the following day by crossing a 
lake about four miles in length, and then passed over 
a succession of rugged hills for nearly the same dis- 
tance. The men being anxious to reach some pine 
trees, which they had seen on their former journey, 
walked a quick pace, though they were suffering from 
6 welled legs and rheumatic pains ; we could not, how- 
ever, attain the desired point, and therefore encamped 
on the declivity of a hill 5 which sheltered us from the 



156 Thirty Years 



wind ; and used the reindeer moss for fuel, which af- 
forded us more warmth than we expected. We per- 
ceived several patches of snow yet remaining on the 
surrounding hills. The thermometer varied to-day 
between 55° and 45°. 

On the 20th of June we began our march by cross- 
ing a small lake, not without much risk, as the sur- 
face of the ice was covered with water to the depth of 
two feet, and there were many holes into which we 
slipped, in spite of our efforts to avoid them. A few 
of the men being fearful of attempting the traverse 
with their heavy loads, walked round the eastern end 
of the lake. The parties met on the sandy ridge, 
which separates the streams that fall into Winter 
Lake from those that flow to the northward ; and here 
we killed three deer. Near the base of this ridge we 
crossed a small but rapid stream, in which there is a 
remarkable cascade of about fifty feet descent. Some 
Indians joined us here, and gave us information re- 
specting the situation of Dr. Richardson's tent, which 
our hunters considered was sufficient for our guidance, 
and therefore proceeded as quickly as they could. 
We marched a few miles farther in the evening, and 
encamped among some pines ; but the comfort of a 
good fire did not compensate for the torment we suf- 
fered from the host of musquitoes we found at this spot 
The temperature was 52°. 



In the Arctic Regions. 157 

We set off next morning at a very early hour The 
men took the course of Point Lake, that they might 
use their sledges, but the officers pursued the nearest 
route by land to Dr. Richardson's tent, which we 
reached at eleven A. M. It was situated on the west- 
ern side of an arm of the lake, and near to the part 
tnrough which the Copper- Mine Eiver runs. Our men 
arrived soon after us, and in the evening Mr. Wentzel 
and his party, with the canoes in excellent condition. 
They were much jaded by their fatiguing journey, and 
several were lame from swellings of the lower extrem- 
ities. The ice on the lake was still six or seven feet 
thick, and there was no appearance of its decay except 
near the edges ; and as it was^evident that, by remain- 
ing here until it should be removed, we might lose 
every prospect of success in our undertaking, I deter- 
mined on dragging our stores along its surface, until 
we should come to a part of the river where we could 
embark ; and directions were given this evening for 
each man to prepare a train for the conveyance of his 
portion of the stores. I may remark here, as a proof 
of the strong effect of radiation from the earth in 
melting the ice, that the largest holes in the ice were 
always formed at the base of the high and steep cliffs, 
which abound on the borders of this lake. 

We found Akaitcho and the hunters encamped here, 
but their families, and the rest of the tribe, had gone 



158 Thirty Years 



off two days before to the Beth-see-to, a large lake to 
the northward, where they intended passing the sum- 
mer. Long-legs and Keskarrah had departed, to de- 
sire the Hook to collect as much meat as he could 
against our arrival at his lodge. We were extremely 
distressed to learn from Dr. Kichardson, that Akaitcho 
and his party had expended all the ammunition they 
had received at Fort Enterprize, without having con- 
tributed any supply of provision. The Doctor had, 
however, through the assistance of two hunters he 
kept with him, prepared two hundred pounds of dried 
meat, which was now our sole dependence for the 
journey. On the following morning I represented to 
Akaitcho that we had been greatly disappointed by 
his conduct, which was so opposite to the promise of 
exertion he had made, on quitting Fort Enterprize. 
He offered many excuses, but rinding they were not 
satisfactory, he admitted that the greater part of the 
ammunition had been given to those who accompanied 
the women to the Beth-see-to, and promised to behave 
better in future. I then told him, that I intended in 
future to give them ammunition only in proportion to 
the meat which was brought in, and that we should 
commence upon that plan, by supplying him with 
fifteen balls, and the hunters with ten each. 

The number of our hunters was -now reduced to 
five, as two of the most active declined going any fur- 



In the Arctic Regions. 159 



ther, their father, who thought himself dying, having 
solicited them to remain and close his eyes. These 
five were furnished with ammunition, and sent for- 
ward to hunt on the south border of the lake, with 
directions to place any meat they might procure near 
to the edge of the lake, and set up marks to guide us 
to the spots. Akaitcho, his brother, the guide, and 
three other men, remained to accompany us. We 
were much surprised to perceive an extraordinary dif- 
ference in climate in so short an advance to the north- 
ward as fifty miles. The snow here was lying in large 
patches on the hills. The dwarf-birch and willows 
were only just beginning to open their buds, which 
had burst forth at Fort Enterprize many days previous 
to our departure. Vegetation seemed to be three weeks 
or a month later here than at that place. We had 
heavy showers of rain through the night of the 22d, 
which melted the snow, and visibly wasted the ice. 

On the 23d, the men were busily employed in mak- 
ing their trains, and in pounding the meat for pem- 
mican. The arrangements being completed, we 
purposed commencing our journey next morning, but 
the weather was too stormy to admit of our venturing 
upon the lake with the canoes. In the afternoon a 
heavy fall of snow took place, which was succeeded by 
sleet and rain. The north-east gale continued, bu» 
the thermometer rose to 39°. 



160 Thirty Years 



June 25. — The wind having abated during the night, 
we prepared for starting at an early hour. The three 
canoes were mounted on sledges, and nine men were 
appointed to conduct them, having the assistance of 
two dogs to each canoe. The stores and provisions 
were distributed equally among the rest of our men, 
except a few small articles which the Indians carried. 
The provision consisted of only two bags of pemmi- 
can, two of pounded meat, five of suet, and two small 
bundles of dried provision, together with fresh meat 
sufficient for our supper at night. It was gratifying 
to witness the readiness with which the men prepared 
for and commenced the journey, which promised to 
be so very laborious, as each of them had to drag 
upwards of one hundred and eighty pounds on his 
sledge. 

Our course led down the main channel of the lake, 
which varied in breadth from half a mile to three 
miles ; but we proceeded at a slow pace, as the snow 
which fell last night, and still lay on the lake, very 
much impeded the sledges. Many extensive arms 
branched off on the north side of this channel, and it 
was bounded on the south by a chain of lofty islands. 
The hills on both sides rose to the height of six hun- 
dred or seven hundred feet, and high steep cliffs are 
numerous. Clusters of pines were occasionally seen 
in the valleys. We put up, at eight P.M., in a spot 



In the Arctic Regions. 161 

which afforded us but a few twigs for fuel. The party 
was much fatigued, and several of the men were af- 
fected by an inflammation on the inside of the thigh, 
attended with hardness and swelling. The distance 
made to-day was six miles. 

We started at ten next morning. The day was ex- 
tremely hot, and the men were soon jaded ; their lame- 
ness increased very much, and some not previously af- 
fected began to complain. The dogs too shewed 
symptoms of great weakness, and one of them stretch- 
ed himself obstinately on the ice, and was obliged to 
be released from the harness. Under these circum- 
stances we were compelled to encamp at an early hour, 
having come only four miles. The sufferings of the 
people in this early stage of our journey were truly 
discouraging to them, and very distressing to us, whose 
situation was comparatively easy. I, therefore, deter- 
mined on leaving, the third canoe, which had been 
principally carried to provide against any accident 
happening to the others. By this we gained three 
men, to lighten the loads of those who were most 
lame, and an additional dog for each of the other ca- 
noes. It was accordingly properly secured on a stage 
erected for the purpose near the encampment. Dried 
meat was issued for supper, but in the course of the 
evening the Indians killed two deer, which were imme- 
diately sent for. 



162 Thirty Years 



The channel of the lake through which we had pass- 
ed to-day was bounded on both sides by islands of 
considerable height, presenting bold and rugged 
scenery. We were informed by our guide, that a large 
body of the lake lies to the northward of a long island 
which we passed. 

Another deer was killed next morning, but as the 
men breakfasted off it before they started, the addi- 
tional weight was not materially felt. The burthens 
of the men being considerably lightened by the ar- 
rangements of last evening, the party walked at the 
rate of one mile and three-quarters an hour until the 
afternoon, when our pace was slackened, as the sur- 
face of the ice was more rough, and our lame com- 
panions felt their sores very galling. At noon we 
passed a deep bay on the south side, which is said to 
receive a river. Throughout the day's march the 
hills on each side of the lake bore a strong resem- 
blance, in height and form, to those about Fort En- 
terprise. We encamped on the north main shore, 
among some spruce trees, having walked eight miles 
and a half. Three or four fish were caught with lines 
through holes, which the water had worn in the ice. 
"We perceived a slight westerly current at those places. 

It rained heavily during the night, and this was 
succeeded by a dense fog on the morning of the 28 th. 
Being short of provisions we commenced our journey, 



In the Arctic Regions. 163 

though the points of land were not discernible "beyond 
a short distance. The surface of the ice, being honey- 
combed by the recent rains, presented innumerable 
sharp points, which tore our shoes, and lacerated the 
feet at every step. The poor dogs, too, marked their 
path with their blood. 

In the evening the atmosphere became clear, and, 
at five P.M., we reached the rapid by which Point 
Lake communicates with Red-Rock Lake. This rapid 
is only one hundred yards wide, and we were much 
disappointed at finding the Copper-Mine River such 
an inconsiderable stream. The canoes descended the 
rapid, but the cargoes were carried across the penin- 
sula, and placed again on the sledges, as the next lake 
was still frozen. We passed an extensive arm, 
branching to the eastward, and encamped just below 
it, on the western bank, among spruce pines, having 
walked six miles of direct distance. The rolled stones 
on the beach are principally red clay slate, hence its 
Indian appellation, which we have retained. 

We continued our journey at the usual hour next 
morning. At noon the variation was observed to be 
47° east. Our attention was afterwards directed to 
some pine branches, scattered on the ice, which prov- 
ed to be marks placed by our hunters, to guide us to 
the spot where they had deposited the carcasses of two 
small deer. This supply was very seasonable, and the 



164 Thirty Years 



men cheerfully dragged the additional weight. Akait- 
cho, judging from the appearance of the meat, thought 
it had been placed here three days ago, and that the 
hunters were considerably in advance. We put up at 
six P.M., near the end of the lake, having come twelve 
miles and three-quarters, and found the channel open 
by which it is connected with the Rock-nest Lake. A 
river was pointed out, bearing south from our encamp- 
ment, which is said to rise near Great. Mar ten Lake. 
Red-rock Lake is in general narrow, its shelving banks 
are well clothed with wood, and even the hills, which 
attain an elevation of four hundred or five hundred 
feet, are ornamented, half way up, with stunted 
pines. 

On June 30, the men having gummed the canoes, 
embarked with their burdens to descend the river ; 
but we accompanied the Indians about five miles 
across a neck of land, when we also embarked. The 
river was about two hundred yards wide, and its 
course being uninterrupted, we cherished a sanguine 
hope of now getting on more speedily, until we per- 
ceived that the waters of Rock-nest Lake were still 
bound by ice, and that recourse must again be had 
to the sledges. The ice was much decayed, and we 
were exposed to great risk of breaking through in 
making the traverse. In one part we had to cross an 
open channel in the canoes, and in another were com- 



In the Arctic Regions. 1G5 

pelled to quit the lake, and make a portage along the 
land. When the party had got upon the ice again, 
our guide evinced much uncertainty as to the route. 
He first directed us towards the west end of the lake ; 
but when we had nearly gained that point, he discov- 
ered a remarkable rock to the north-east, named by 
the Indians the Eock-nest, and then recollected that 
the Kiver ran at its base. Our course was immediate- 
ly changed to that direction, but the traverse we had 
then to make was more dangerous than the former one. 
The ice cracked under us at every step, and the party 
were obliged to separate themselves widely to prevent 
accidents. We landed at the first point we could ap- 
proach, but having found an open channel close to the 
shore, we were obliged to ferry the goods across on 
pieces of ice. The fresh meat being expended, we had 
to make another inroad on our pounded meat. The 
evening was very warm, and the musquitoes numerous. 
A large fire was made to apprise the hunters of our 
advance. The scenery of Kock-nest Lake is pictu- 
resque, its shores are rather low, except at the Kock's- 
nest, and two or three eminences on the eastern side. 
The only wood is the pine, which is twenty or thirty 
feet high, and about one foot in diameter. Our dis- 
tance to-day was six miles. 

July 1. — Our guide directed us to proceed towards 
a deep bay on the north side of the lake, where I19 



166 Thirty Years 

supposed we should find the river. In consequence of 
the bad state of the ice, we employed all the different 
modes of traveling we had previously followed in at- 
taining this place ; and, in crossing a point of land, 
had the misfortune to lose one of the dogs, which set 
off in puisuit of some reindeer. Arriving at the bay, 
we only found a stream that fell into it from the 
north-east, and looked in vain for the Copper-Mine 
River. This circumstance confused the guide, and he 
confessed that he was now doubtful of the proper 
route ; we, therefore, halted, and despatched him, 
with two men, to look for the river from the top of the 
high hills near the Nest-rock. During this delay a 
Blight injury was repaired, which one of the canoes had 
received. We were here amused by the interesting 
spectacle of a wolf chasing two reindeer on the ice. 
The pursuer being alarmed at the sight of our men, 
gave up the chase when near to the hindmost, much to 
our regret, for we were calculating upon the chance of 
sharing in his capture. 

At four P.M. our men returned, with the agreeable 
information that they had seen the river flowing at the 
base of the Rock-nest. The canoes and stores were 
immediately placed on the ice, and dragged thither ; 
we then embarked, but soon had to cut through a bar- 
rier of drift ice that blocked up the way. We after- 
wards descended two strong rapids, and encamped 



In the Arctic Regions 167 

dear to the discharge of a small stream which flows 
from an adjoining lake. The Copper-Mine River, at 
this point, is about two hundred yards wide, and ten 
feet deep, and flows very rapidly over a rockv bottom. 
The scenery of its banks is picturesque, the hills 
shelve to the water-side, and are well covered with 
wood, and the surface of the rocks is richly orna- 
mented with lichens. The Indians say that the same 
kind of country prevails as far as Mackenzie's River 
in this parallel ; but that the land to the eastward is 
perfectly barren. Akaitcho and one of the Indians 
killed two deer, which were immediately sent for. 
Two of the hunters arrived in the night, and we 
learned that their companions, instead of being in 
advance, as we supposed, were staying at the place 
where we first found the river open. They had only 
seen our fires last evening, and had sent to examine 
who we were. The circumstance of having passed 
them was very vexatious, as they had three deer en 
cache at their encampment. However, an Indian was 
sent to desire those who remained to join us, and bring 
the meat. 

We embarked at nine A. M. on July 2nd, and 
descended a succession of strong rapids for three 
miles. We were carried along with extraordinary 
rapidity, shooting over large stones, upon which a 
single stroke would have been destructive to the 



168 Thirty Years 



canoes ; and we were also in danger of breaking them, 
from the want of the long poles which lie along their 
bottoms and equalize their cargoes, as they plunged 
very much, and on one occasion the first canoe w&s 
almost filled with the waves. But there was no re- 
ceding after we had once launched into the stream, 
and our safety depended on the skill and dexterity 
of the bowmen and steersmen. The banks of the 
river here are rocky, and the scenery beautiful ; con- 
sisting of gentle elevations and dales wooded to the 
edge of the stream, and flanked on both sides at the 
distance of three or four miles by a range of round- 
backed barren hills, upwards of six hundred feet high. 
At the foot of the rapids the high lands receded to a 
greater distance, and the river flowed with a more 
gentle current, in a wider channel, through a level 
and open country consisting of alluvial sand. In one 
place the passage was blocked up by drift ice, still 
covered to some depth with snow. A channel for the, 
canoes was made for some way with the hatchets and 
poles ; but on reaching the more compact part wo 
were under the necessity of transporting the canoes 
and cargoes across it ; an operation of much hazard, 
as the snow concealed the numerous holes which the 
water had made in the ice. This expansion of the 
river being mistaken by the guide for a lake, which 
he spoke of as the last on our route to the sea, wa 



In the Arctic Regions. 



169 



supposed that we should have no more ice to cross, 
and therefore encamped after passing through it, for 
the purpose of fitting the canoes properly for the voy- 
ac(£, and to provide poles, which are not only necessary 
to strengthen them when placed in the bottom, buo 
essentially requisite for the safe management of them 
in dangerous rapids. The guide began afterwards to 
doubt whether- the lake he meant was not further on, 
and he was sent with two men to examine into the 
fact, who returned in the evening with the informa- 
tion of its being below us, but that there was an open 
channel through it. This day was very sultry, several 
plants appeared in flower. 

The men were employed in repairing their canoes to 
a late hour, and commenced very early next morning, 
as we were desirous of availing ourselves of every part 
of this favorable weather for their operations. The 
hunters arrived in the course of the night. It ap- 
peared that the dog which escaped from us two days 
ago came into the vicinity of their encampment, 
howling piteously ; seeing him without his harness, 
they came to the hasty conclusion that our whole 
party had perished in a rapid ; and throwing away 
part of their baggage, and leaving the meat behind 
them, they set off with the utmost haste to join Long- 
legs. Our messenger met them in their flight, but too 
far advanced to admit of their returning for the meat. 



8 



170 Thirty Years 



Akaitcho scolded them heartily for their thoughtless- 
ness in leaving the meat, which we so much wanted. 
They expressed their regret, and being ashamed ol 
their panic, proposed to remedy the evil as much as 
possible by going forward, without stopping until they 
came to a favorable spot for hunting, which they ex- 
pected to do about thirty or forty miles below our 
present encampment. Akaitcho accompanied them, 
but previous to setting off he renewed his charge that 
we should be on our guard against the bears, which 
was occasioned by the hunters having fired at one this 
morning as they were descending a rapid in their 
canoe. As their small canoes would only carry five 
persons, two of the hunters had to walk in turns along 
the banks. 

In our rambles round the encampment, we witnessed 
with pleasure the progress which the vegetation had 
made within the few last warm days ; most of the 
trees nad put forth their leaves, and several flowers 
ornamented the moss-covered ground ; many of the 
smaller summer birds were observed in the woods, and 
k variety of ducks, gulls, and plovers, were seen on the 
banks of the river. The river is about three hundred 
yards wide at this part, is deep and flows over a bed 
of alluvial sand. We caught some trout of con- 
siderable size with our lines, and a few white fish in 
the nets, which maintained us, with a little assistance 



In the Arctic Regions. 171 

from the pemmican. The repair of our canoes was 
completed this evening. Previous to embarking I 
issued an order that no rapid should in future he 
descended ' until the bowmen had examined it, and 
decided upon its being safe to run. Wherever the 
least danger was to be apprehended, or the crew had 
to disembark for the purpose of lightening the canoe, 
the ammunition, guns and instruments, were always 
to be put out and carried along the bank ; that we 
might be provided with the means of subsisting our- 
selves, in case of any accident befalling the canoes. 

At four in the morning of July 4th, we embarked 
and descended a succession of very agitated rapids, 
but took the precaution of landing the articles men- 
tioned y3sterday, wherever there appeared any hazard ; 
notwithstanding all our precautions the leading canoe 
struck with great force against a stone, and the bark 
was split, but this injury was easily repaired, and we 
regretted only the loss of time. At eleven we came 
to an expansion of the river where the current ran 
with less force, and an accumulation of drift ice had, 
in consequence, barred the channel ; which the canons 
and cargoes were carried over. The ice in many places 
adhered to the banks, and projected in wide ledges 
several feet thick over the stream, which had hollowed 
them out beneath. On one occasion, as the people 
were embarking from one of these ledges, it suddenly 



172 Thirty Years 



gave way, and three men were precipitated into the 
water, but were rescued without further damage than 
a sound ducking, and the canoe fortunately (and nar- 
rowly) escaped being crushed. Perceiving one of the 
Indians sitting on the east bank of the river, we 
landed, and having learned from him that Akaitcho 
and the hunters had gone in pursuit of a herd of musk 
oxen, we encamped, having come twenty-four miles 
and a half. 

In the afternoon they brought us the agreeable 
intelligence of their having killed eight cows, of which 
four were full grown. All the party were immediately 
despatched to bring in this seasonable supply. A 
young cow, irritated by the firing of the hunters, ran 
down to the river, and passed close to me when walk- 
ing at a short distance from the tents. I fired and 
wounded it, when the animal instantly turned, and 
ran at me, but I avoided its fury by jumping aside 
and getting upon an elevated piece of ground. In the 
mean time some people came from the tents, and it 
took to flight. 

The musk oxen, like the buffalo, herd together in 
bands, and generally frequent the barren grounds du- 
ring the summer months, keeping near to the banks 
of the river, but retire to the woods in winter. They 
seem to be less watchful than most other wild ani- 
mals, and when grazing are not difficult to approach, 



In the Arctic Regions, 173 

provided the hunters go against the wind ; when two 
or three men get so near a herd as to fire at them from 
different points, these animals, instead of separating 
or running away, huddle closer together, and several 
are generally killed ; but if the wound is not mortal 
they become enraged and dart in the most furious 
manner at the hunters, who must be very dexterous 
to evade them. They can defend themselves by their 
powerful horns against the wolves and bears, which, 
as the Indians say, they not un frequently kill. 

The musk oxen feed on the same substances with 
the reindeer, and. the prints of the feet of these two 
animals are so much alike that it requires the eye of 
an experienced hunter to distinguish them. The 
largest of these animals killed by us did not exceed in 
weight three hundred pounds. The flesh has a 
musky, disagreeable flavor, particularly when the ani- 
mal is lean, which unfortunately for us, was the case 
with all that were now killed by us. 

During this day's march the river varied in breadth 
from one hundred to two hundred feet, and except in 
two open spaces, a very strong current marked a deep 
descent the whole way. It flows over a bed of gravel, 
of which also its immediate banks are composed. 
Near to our encampment it is bounded by cliffs of fine 
sand from one hundred to two hundred feet high. 
Sandy plains extend on a level with the summit oi 



174 Thirty Years 



these cliffs, and at the distance of six or seven miles 
are terminated by ranges of hills eight hundred or one 
thousand feet high. The grass on these plains affords 
excellent pasturage for the musk oxen, and they gen- 
erally abound here. The hunters added two more to 
our stock in the course of the night. As we had now 
more meat than the party could consume fresh, we de- 
layed our voyage next day for the purpose of drying 
it. The hunters were supplied with more ammuni- 
tion and sent forward ; but Akaitcho, his brother, and 
another Indian remained with us. 

It may here be proper to mention, that the officers 
had treated Akaitcho more distantly since our depar- 
ture from Point Lake, for the purpose of shewing him 
their opinion of his misconduct. The diligence in 
hunting, however, which he had evinced at this place, 
induced us to receive him more familiarly when he 
came to the tent this evening. During our conversa- 
tion he endeavored to excite suspicions in our minds 
against the Hook, by saying, " I am aware that you 
consider me the worst man of my nation ; but I know 
the Hook to be a great rogue, and, I think, he will 
disappoint you." 

On the morning of the 6th we embarked, and de- 
scended a series of rapids, having twice unloaded the 
canoes where the water was shallow. After passing 
the mouth of the Fairy Lake Kiver the rapids ceased. 



In the A relic Regions. 175 

The main stream was then about three hundred yards 
wide, and generally deep, though, in one part, the 
channel was interrupted by several sandy banks, and 
low alluvial islands covered with willows. It flows 
between banks of sand thinly wooded, and as we ad- 
vanced the barren hills approached the water's edge. 

At ten we rejoined our hunters, who had killed a 
deer, and halted to breakfast. We sent them forward ; 
one of them, who was walking along the shore after- 
wards, fired upon two brown bears, and wounded one 
of them, which instantly turned and pursued him. 
His companions in the canoes put ashore to his as- 
sistance, but did not succeed in killing the bears, 
which fled upon the reinforcement coming up. 
During the delay thus occasioned we overtook them, 
and they continued with us during the rest of the day. 



176 Thirty Years 



CHAPTER VIII. 

On the 11th we traveled nine miles to the foot of 
the Copper Mountains, the day being hot. On the 
12th passed on our way twelve miles. In the evening 
we had the gratification of meeting Junius, who was 
hastening back to inform us that they had found four 
Esquimaux tents at the fall which we recognized to be 
the one described by Mr. Hearne. The inmates were 
asleep at the time of their arrival, but rose soon after- 
wards, and then Augustus presented himself, and had 
some conversation across the river. He told them the 
white people had arrived, who would make them very 
useful presents. The information of our arrival seem- 
ed to alarm them very much, but as the noise of the 
rapid prevented them from hearing distinctly, one of 
them came nearer to him in his canoe, and received 
the rest of the message. He would not, however, 
land on his side of the river, but returned to their 
tents without receiving the present. His language 
differed in some respects from Augustus's, but they 
understood each other tolerably well. Augustus 



In the Arctic Begiona. Ill 

trusting for a supply of provision to the Esquimaux, 
had neglected to carry any with him, and this was the 
main cause of Junius's return. We now encamped, 
having come fourteen miles. After a few hours' rest, 
Junius set off again to rejoin his companion, being ac- 
companied by Hepburn, who was directed to remain 
about two miles above the fall, to arrest the canoes on 
their passage, lest we should too suddenly surprise the 
Esquimaux. About ten P.M. we were mortified by 
the appearance of the Indians with Mr. Wentzel, who 
had in vain endeavored to restrain them from follow- 
ing us. The only reason assigned by Akaitcho for this 
conduct was, that he wished a re-assurance of my 
promise to establish peace between his nation and the 
Esquimaux. I took this occasion of pointing out 
again the necessity of their remaining behind, until 
we had obtained the confidence and good will of their 
enemies. After supper Dr. Kichardson ascended a 
lofty hill about three miles from the encampment, and 
obtained the first view of the sea ; it appeared to be 
covered with ice. A large promontory, which I nam- 
ed Cape Hearne, bore N.E., and its lofty mountains 
proved to be the blue land we had seen in the fore- 
nDon, and which had led us to believe the sea was still 
far distant. He saw the sun set a few minutes before 
midnight from the same elevated situation. It did 

not rise during the half hour he remained there, but 

8* 



178 Thirty Years 



before he reached the encampment its rays gilded the 
tops of the hills. 

The night was warm and we were much annoyed by 
the musquitoes. 

June 15. — We this morning experienced as much 
difficulty as before in prevailing upon the Indians to 
remain behind, and they did not consent to do so until 
I had assured them that they should lose the reward 
which had been promised, if they proceeded any far- 
ther, until we had prepared the Esquimaux to receive 
them. We left a Canadian with them, and proceeded 
on our journey, not without apprehension that they 
would follow us, and derange our whole plan by their 
obstinacy. Two of the officers and a party of the 
men walked on the shore, to lighten the canoes. The 
river, in this part, flows between high sand-stone cliffs, 
reddish slate clay rocks, and shelving banks of white 
clay, and is full of shoals and dangerous rapids. One 
of these was termed Escape Eapid, from both the 
canoes having narrowly escaped foundering in its high 
waves. We had entered the rapid before we were 
aware, and the steepness of the cliffs preventing us 
from landing, we were indebted to the swiftness of our 
descent for our preservation. Two waves made a com- 
plete breach over the canoes ; a third would in all 
probability have filled and overset them, which must 
have proved fatal to every one in them. The powder 



In the Arctic Regions. 173 

fortunately escaped the water, which was soon dis- 
charged when we reached the bottom of the rapid. 
At Doon we perceived Hepburn lying on the left bank 
of the river, and we landed immediately to receive his 
information. As he represented the water to be shoal 
the whole way to the rapid, (below which the Esqui- 
maux were,) the shore party were directed to continue 
their march to a sandy bay at the head of the fall, 
and there await the arrival of the canoes. The land 
in the neighborhood of the rapid, is of the most sin- 
gular form : large irregular sand hills bounding both 
banks, apparently so unconnected that they resemble 
icebergs ; the country around them consisting of high 
round green hills. The river became wide in this part 
and full of shoals, but we had no difficulty in finding 
a channel through them. On regaining the shore 
party, we regretted to find that some of the men had 
incautiously appeared on the tops of the hills, just at 
the time Augustus was conversing with one of the 
Esquimaux, who had approached in his canoe, and 
was almost persuaded to land. The unfortunate ap- 
pearance of so many people at this instant, revived 
his fears, and he crossed over to the eastern bank of 
the river, and fled with the whole of his party. . We 
learned from Augustus that this party, consisting of 
four men and as many women, had manifested a 
friendly disposition. Two of the men were very tall. 



180 Thirty Tears 



The man who first came to speak to him, inquired the 
number of canoes that we had with us, expressed him- 
self to be not displeased at our arrival, and desired 
him to caution us not to attempt running the rapid, 
but to make the portage on the -west side of the river. 
Notwithstanding this appearance of confidence and 
satisfaction, it seems they did not consider their situa- 
tion to be free from danger, as they retreated the first 
night to an island somewhat farther down the river, 
and in the morning they returned and threw down 
their lodges, as if to give notice to any of their na- 
tion that might arrive, that there was an enemy in the 
neighborhood. From seeing all their property strewed 
about, and ten of their dogs left, we entertained the 
hope that these poor people would return after their 
first alarm had subsided ; and therefore I determined 
on remaining until the next day, in the expectation oi 
seeing them, as I considered the opening of an early 
communication to be a matter of the greatest impor- 
tance in our state of absolute ignorance respecting the 
sea coast. The canoes and cargoes were carried across 
the portage, and we encamped on the north side of it. 
We sent Augustus and Junius across the river to look 
for the runaways, but their search was fruitless. 
They put a few pieces of iron and trinkets in their 
canoes, which were lying on the beach. We also sent 
some men to put up the stages of fish, and secure 



In the Arctic Regions. 181 

them as much as possible from the attacks of the dogs. 
Under the covering of their tents were observed some 
stone kettles and hatchets, a few fish spears made of 
copper, two small bits of iron, a quantity of skins, 
and some dried salmon, which was covered with mag- 
gots, and half putrid. The entrails of the fish were 
spread out to dry. A great many skins of small birds 
were hung up to a stage, and even two mice were pre- 
served in the same way. Thus it would appear that 
the necessities of these poor people induce them to 
preserve every article that can be possibly used as food. 
Several human skulls, which bore the marks of vio- 
lence, and many bones were strewed about the ground 
near to the encampment, and as the spot exactly an- 
swers the description given by Mr. Hearne, of the 
place where the Chipewyans who accompanied him 
perpetrated the dreadful massacre on the Esquimaux, 
we had no doubt of this being the place, notwithstand- 
ing the difference in its position as to latitude and 
longitude given by him, and ascertained by our ob- 
servation. We have, therefore, preserved the appel- 
lation of Bloody Fall, which he bestowed upon it. 
This rapid is a sort of shelving cascade, about three 
hundred yards in length, having a descent of from ten 
to fifteen feet. It is bounded on each side by high 
walls of red sand stone, upon which rests a series of 
lofty green hills. On its north side, close to the east 



182 Thirty Years 



bank, is the low rocky island which the Esquimaux 
deserted. We caught forty excellent fish of the sal- 
mon and white fish species in a single net below the 
rapid. We had not seen any trees during this day's 
journey ; our fuel consisted of small willows and 
pieces of dried wood that were picked up near to the 
encampment. The ground is well clothed with grass, 
and nourishes most of the shrubs and berry-bearing 
plants that we have seen north of Fort Enterprize ; 
and the country altogether has a richer appearance 
than the barren lands of the Copper Indians. We 
had a distinct view of the sea from the summit of a 
hill behind the tents ; it appeared choked with ice 
and full of islands. 

On the morning of the 16th three men were sent up 
the river to search for dried wood to make floats for 
the nets. Adam, the interpreter, was also despatched 
with a Canadian to inform Akaitcho of the flight of 
the Esquimaux. We were preparing to go down to 
the sea in one of the canoes, leaving Mr. Back to await 
the return of the men who were absent ; but just as 
the crew were putting the canoe in the water, Adam 
arrived in the utmost consternation, and informed us 
that a party of Esquimaux were pursuing the men 
whom he had sent to collect floats. The orders for 
embarking were instantly countermanded, and we 
went with a party of men to their rescue. We soon 



In the Artie Regions. 183 



met our people returning at a slow pace, and learned 
that they had come unawares upon the Esquimaux 
party, which consisted of six men, with their women 
and children, who were traveling towards the rapid 
with a considerable number of dogs carrying their 
baggage. The women hid themselves on the first 
alarm, but the men advanced, and stopping at some 
distance from our men, began to dance in a circle, 
tossing up their hands in the air, and accompanying 
their motions with much shouting, to signify, I con- 
ceive, their desire of peace. Our men saluted them 
by pulling off their hats, and making bows, but 
neither party was willing to approach the other ; and, 
at length, the Esquimaux retired to the hill, from 
whence they had descended when first seen. We 
proceeded in the hope of gaining an interview with 
them, but lest our appearance in a body should alarm 
them, we advanced in a long line, at the head of 
which was Augustus. We were led to their baggage, 
which they had deserted, by the howling of the dogs ; 
and on the summit of the hill we found, lying behind 
a stone, an old man, who was too infirm to effect his 
escape with the rest. He was much terrified when 
Augustus advanced, and probably expected immediate 
death ; but that the fatal blow might not be unre- 
venged, he seized his spear, and made a thrust, with it 
at his supposed enemy. Augustus, however, easily 



184 Thirty Years 



repressed his feeble effort, and soon calmed his fears 
by presenting him with some pieces of iron, and 
assuring him of his friendly intentions. Dr. Richard- 
son and I then joined them, and, after receiving our 
presents, the old man was quite composed, and be- 
came communicative. His dialect differed from that 
used by Augustus, but they understood each other 
tolerably well. 

It appeared that his party consisted of eight men 
and their families, who were returning from a hunting 
excursion with dried meat. After being told who we 
were, he said, that he had heard of white people from 
different parties of his nation which resided on the sea- 
coast to the eastward ; and to our inquiries respecting 
the provision and fuel we might expect to get on our 
voyage, he informed us that the reindeer frequent the 
coast during summer, the fish are plentiful at the 
mouths of the rivers, the seals are abundant, but there 
are no sea-horses nor whales, although he remember- 
ed one of the latter, which had been killed by some 
distant tribe, having been driven on shore on his 
part of the coast by a gale of wind ; that musk oxen 
were to be found a little distance up the rivers, and 
that we should find drift wood along the shore. He 
had no knowledge of the coast to the eastward beyond 
the next river, which he called Nappa-arktok-towock, 
9r Tree River. The old man, contrary to the Indian 



In the Arctic Regions. 185 

practice, asked eacb of our names ; and, in reply to a 
similar question on our part, said his was Terregan- 
ncsuck, or the White Fox ; and that his tribe denomi- 
nated themselves Nagge-ook-tor-mceoot, or Deer Horn 
Esquimaux. They usually frequent the Bloody Fall 
during this and the following moons, for the purpose 
of salting salmon, and then retire to a river which 
flows into the sea, a short way to the westward, (since 
denominated Richardson's River,) and pass the win- 
ter in snow-houses. 

After this conversation, Terregannoeuck proposed 
going down to his baggage, and we then perceived he 
was too infirm to walk without the assistance of sticks. 
Augustus, therefore, offered him his arm, which he 
readily accepted, and, on reaching his store, he distri- 
buted pieces of dried meat to each person, which, 
though highly tainted, were immediately eaten ; this 
being an universal token among the Indians of peace- 
able intention. 

We then informed him of our desire to procure as 
much meat as we possibly could, and he told us that 
he had a large quantity concealed in the neighborhood, 
which he would cause to be carried to us when his 
people returned. 

I now communicated to him that we were accom- 
panied by some Copper Indians, who were very desi- 
rous to make peace with his nation, and that they 



186 Thirty Years 



had requested me to prevail upon the Esquimaux to 
receive them in a friendly manner ; to which he re- 
plied, he should rejoice to see an end put to the hos- 
tility that existed between the nations, and, therefore, 
would most gladly welcome our companions. Having 
despatched Adam to inform Akaitcho of this circum- 
stance, we left Terragannceuck, in the hope that his 
party would rejoin him ; but as we had doubts whe- 
ther the young men would venture upon coming to 
our tents, on the old man's bare representation, we 
sent Augustus and Junius back in the evening, to re- 
main with him until they came, thai they might fully 
detail to them our intentions. 

The countenance of Terregannoeuck was oval, witu 
a sufficiently prominent nose, and had nothing very 
different from an European face, except in the srnall- 
ness of his eyes, and, perhaps, in the narrowness oi 
his forehead. His complexion was very fresh and red, 
and he had a longer beard than I have hitherto seen 
on any of the Aboriginal inhabitants of America. It 
was between two and three inches long, and perfectly 
white. His face was nottattoed. His dress consisted 
of a shirt, or jacket with a hood, wide breeches, reach- 
ing only to the knee, and tight leggins sewed to the 
shoes, all of deers' skins. The soles of the shoes were 
made of seal-skin, and stuffed with feathers instead of 
socks. He was bent with age, but appeared about 



In the Arctic Megions. 187 

five feet ten inches high. His hands and feet were 
small in proportion to his height. Whenever Terre- 
gannoeuck received a present, he placed each article 
first on his right shoulder, then on his left ; and when 
he wished to express still higher satisfaction, he rub- 
bed it over his head. He held hatchets, and other 
iron instruments, in the highest esteem. On seeing 
his countenance in a glass for the first time, he ex- 
claimed, " I shall never kill deer more," and immedi- 
ately put the mirror down. The tribe to which he 
belongs repair to the sea in spring, and kill seals ; as 
the season advances they hunt deer and musk oxen 
at some distance from the coast. Their weapon is 
the bow and arrow, and they get sufficiently near to 
the deer, either by crawling, or leading these animals 
by ranges of turf towards a spot where the archer can 
conceal himself. Their bows are formed of three 
pieces of fir, the centre piece alone bent, the other 
two lying in the same straight line with the bow- 
string ; the pieces are neatly tied together with sinew. 
Their canoes are similar to those we saw in Hudson's 
Straits, but smaller. They get fish constantly in the 
rivers, and in the sea as soon as the ice breaks up. 
This tribe does not make use of nets, but they are 
tolerably successful with the hook and line. Then 
cooking utensils are made of pot-stone, and they form 
very neat dishes of fir, the sides being made of thin 



188 Thirty Years 



deal bent into an oval form, secured at the ends by 
sewing, and fitted so nicely to the bottom as to be 
perfectly water tight. They have also large spoons 
made of the horns of the musk oxen. 

Akaitcho and the Indians arrived at our tents in the 
evening, and we learned that they had seen the Esqui- 
maux the day before, and endeavored, without success, 
to open a communication with them. They exhibited 
no hostile intention, but were afraid to come near. 
Akaitcho keeping out of their sight, followed them at 
a distance, expecting that ultimately finding them- 
selves enclosed between our party and his, they would 
be compelled to come to a parley with one of us. 
Akaitcho had seen Terregannceuck soon after our de- 
parture ; he was much terrified at their approach, and 
thrust his spear at Akaitcho as he had done at Au- 
gustus ; but he was soon reconciled after the demon- 
strations of kindness the Indians made, in cutting off 
the buttons from their dress to present to him. 

July 17. — We waited all this forenoon in momentary 
expectation of the return of Augustus and Junius, but 
as they did not appear at two P.M., I sent Mr. Hood, 
with a party of men, to inquire into the cause of their 
detention, and to bring the meat which Terregan- 
nceuck had promised us. He returned at midnight 
with the information, that none of the Esquimaux 
had yet ventured to come near Terregannceuck except 



In the Arctic Regions. 189 



his aged wife, who had concealed herself among the 
rocks at our first interview ; and she told him the rest 
of the party had gone to a river, a short distance to 
the westward, where there was another part}' of 
Esquimaux fishing. Augustus and Junius had erected 
the tent, and done every thing in their power to make 
the old man comfortable in their absence. Terre- 
gannoeuck being unable to walk to the place where 
the meat was concealed, readily pointed the spot out 
to Mr. Hood, who went thither ; but after ex- 
periencing much difficulty in getting at the column of 
rock on which it was deposited, he found the meat too 
putrid for our use. The features of Terregannceuck's 
wife were remarkable for roundness and flatness ; her 
face was much tattoed, her dress differed little from 
the old man's. 

In the afternoon a party of nine Esquimaux ap- 
peared on the east bank of the river, about a mile 
below our encampment, carrying their canoes and bag- 
gage on their backs ; but they turned and fled as soon 
as they perceived our tents. The appearance of so 
many different bands of Esquimaux terrified the Indians 
to such a degree, that they determined on leaving us 
the next day, lest they should be surrounded, and 
their retreat cut off. I endeavored, by the offer of 
any remuneration they would choose, to prevail upon 
one or two of the hunters to proceed, but in vain ; and 



190 Thirty Years 



I had much difficulty even in obtaining their promise 
to wait at the Copper Mountains for Mr. Wentzel and 
the four men, whom I intended to discharge at the 
sea. 

The fears which our interpreters, St. Germain and 
Adam, entertained respecting the voyage, were now 
greatly increased, and both of them came this evening 
to request their discharges, urging that their services 
could be no longer requisite, as the Indians were going 
from us. St. Germain even said that he had under- 
stood he was only engaged to accompany us as long as 
the Indians did, and persisted in this falsehood until 
.his agreement to go with us throughout the voyage 
had been twice read to him. As these were the only 
two of the party on whose skill in hunting we could 
rely, I was unable to listen for a moment to their de- 
sire of quitting us, and lest they should leave us by 
stealth, their motions were strictly watched. This 
was not an unnecessary precaution, as I was informed 
that they had actually laid a plan for eloping ; but the 
rest of the men knowing that their own safety would 
have been compromised had they succeeded, kept a 
watchful eye over them. We knew that the dread of 
the Esquimaux would prevent these men from leaving 
us as soon as the Indians were at a distance, and we 
trusted to their becoming reconciled to the journey 
when once the novelty of a sea voyage had worn off 



In the Arctic Regions. 191 

July 18. — As the Indians persevered in their deter- 
mination of setting out this morning, I reminded them 
through Mr. Wentzel and St. Germain, of the neces- 
sity of our having the deposit of provision made at 
Fort Enterprize, and received a renewed assurance of 
their attending to that point. They were also desired 
to put as much meat as they could en cache on the 
banks of the Copper-Mine River on their return. We 
then furnished them with as much ammunition as we 
could spare, and they took their departure, promising 
to wait three days for Mr. Wentzel at t- e Copper 
Mountains. We afterwards learned that heir fears 
did not permit them to do so, and that Ms Wentzel 
did not rejoin them until they were a day'? march to 
the southward of the mountains. 

We embarked at five A.M. and proceed* i towards 
the sea, which is about nine mile distant from the 
Bloody Fall. After passing a few rapids, the river 
became wider, and more navigable for canons, flowing 
between banks of alluvial sand. We encamped at 
ten on the western bank at its junction with the sea. 
The river is here about a mile wide, but very shallow, 
being barred nearly across by sand banks, which run 
out from the main land on each side to a low alluvial 
island that lies in the centre, and forms two channels ; 
of these the westermost only is navigable even for ca- 
noes, the other being obstructed by a stony bar. The 



192 Thirty Years 



islands to seaward are high and numerous, and fill the 
horizon in many points of the compass ; the only open 
space, seen from an eminence near the encampment, 
being from N.bE. to N.E.bN. Towards the east the 
land was like a chain of islands, the ice surrounded 
the islands apparently in a compact body, leaving a 
channel between its edge and the main of about three 
miles. The water in this channel was of a clear green 
color, and decidedly salt. Mr. Hearne could have 
only tasted it at the mouth of the river, when he pro- 
nounced it to be merely brackish. A rise and fall of 
four inches in the water was observed. The shore is 
strewed with a considerable quantity of drift timber, 
which is principally of the wood of the populus bal- 
samifera, but none of it of great size. We also pick- 
ed up some decayed wood far out of the reach of the 
water. A few stunted willows were growing near the 
encampment. Some ducks, gulls, and partridges were 
seen to-day. As I had to make up despatches for 
England to be sent by Mr. Wentzel, the nets were 
set in the interim, and we were rejoiced to find that 
they produced a sufficiency offish to supply the party. 
The fish caught were, the Copper-Mine Eiver salmon, 
white fish, and two species of pleuronectes. We felt 
a considerable change of temperature on reaching the 
sea-coast, produced by the winds changing from the 
southward to the N. W. Our Canadian voyagers com- 



In the Arctic Regions. 193 

plained much of the cold, but they were amused with 
their first view of the sea, and particularly with the 
sight of the seals that were swimming about near the 
entrance of the river, but these sensations gave place 
to despondency before the evening had elapsed. They 
were terrified at the idea of a voyage through an icy 
sea in bark canoes. They speculated on the length 
of the journey, the roughness of the sea, the uncer- 
tainty of provisions, the exposure to cold where we 
could expect no fuel, and the prospect of having to 
traverse the barren grounds to get to some establish- 
ment. The two interpreters expressed their appre- 
hensions with the least disguise, and again urgently 
applied to be discharged ; but only one of the Cana- 
dians made a similar request. Judging that the con- 
stant occupation of their time as soon as we were ena- 
bled to commence the voyage, would prevent them 
from conjuring up so many causes of fear, and that 
familiarity with the scenes on the coast, would in a 
short time enable them to give scope to their natural 
cheerfulness, the officers endeavored to ridicule their 
fears, and happily succeeded for the present. The 
manner in which our faithful Hepburn viewed the ele- 
ment that he had been so long accustomed to, con- 
tributed not a little to make them ashamed of their 
fears. 

On the morning of the 19 th, Dr. Kichardson, accom- 



194 Thirty Years 



panied by Augustus, paid another visit to Terregan- 
noeuck, to see if he could obtain any additional infor- 
mation respecting the country to the eastward ; but 
he was disappointed at finding that his affrighted fami- 
ly had not jet rejoined him, and the old man could 
add nothing to his former communication. The Doc- 
tor remarked that Terregannoeuck had a great dislike 
to mentioning the name of the Copper-Mine Kiver, 
and that he evaded the question with much dexterity 
as often as it was put to him ; but that he willingly 
told the name of a river to the eastward, and also of 
his tribe. He attempted to persuade Augustus to re- 
main with him, and offered him one of his daughters 
for a wife. These Esquimaux strike fire with two 
stones, catching the sparks in the down of the catkins 
of a willow. 

The despatches being finished were delivered this 
evening to Mr. Wentzel, who parted from us at eight 
P. M. with Parent, G-agnier, Dumas, and Forcier, 
Canadians, whom I had discharged for the purpose of 
reducing our expenditure of provisions as much as 
possible. The remainder of the party, including 
officers, amounted to twenty persons. I made Mr. 
Wentzel acquainted with the probable course of our 
future proceedings, and mentioned to him that if we 
were far distant from this river, when the season or 
other circumstances rendered it necessary to put a stop 



In the Arctic Regions. 195 



to our advance, we should, in all probability, be 
unable to return to it, and should have to travel 
across the barren grounds towards some established 
post ; in which case I told him that we should cer- 
tainly go first to Fort Enterprize, expecting that he 
would cause the Indians to place a supply of dried 
provision there, as soon as possible after their arrival 
in its vicinity. My instructions to him were, that he 
should proceed to Point Lake, transport the canoe that 
was left there to Fort Enterprize, where he was to 
embark the instruments and books, and carry them to 
Slave Lake, and to forward the box containing the 
journals, &a, with the present despatches by the next 
winter packet to England. But before he quitted 
Fort Enterprise, he was to be assured of the intention 
of the Indians to lay up the provision we required, 
and if they should be in want of ammunition for that 
purpose, to procure it if possible from Fort Providence, 
or the other forts in Slave Lake, and send it imme- 
diately to them by the hunters who accompanied him 
thither. I also requested him to ascertain from 
Akaitcho and the other leading Indians, where their 
different parties would be hunting in the months of 
September and October, and to leave this information 
in a letter at Fort Enterprize, for our guidance in 
finding them, as we should require their assistance. 
Mr. Wentzel was furnished with a list of the stores 



196 Thirty Years 



that had been promised to Akaitcho and his party as 
a remuneration for their services, as well as with an 
official request to the North- West Company that 
these goods might he paid to them on their next visit 
to Fort Providence, which they expected to make in 
the latter part of November. I desired him to men- 
tion this circumstance to the Indians as an encourage- 
ment to their exertion in our behalf, and to promise 
them an additional reward for the supply of provision 
they should collect at Fort Enterprize. 

If Mr. Wentzel met the Hook, or any of his party, 
he was instructed to assure them that he was provided 
with the necessary documents to get them payment 
for any meat they should put en cache for our use ; 
and to acquaint them, that we fully relied on their 
fulfilling every part of the agreement they had made 
with us. Whenever the Indians, whom he was to 
join at the Copper Mountains, killed any animals on 
their way to Fort Enterprize, he was requested to put 
en cache whatever meat could be spared, placing con- 
spicuous marks to guide us to them ; and I par- 
ticularly begged he would employ them in hunting 
in our service, immediately after his arrival at the 
house. 

When Mr. Wentzel's party had been supplied with 
ammunition, our remaining stock consisted of one 
thousand balls, and a little more than the requisite 



In the Arctic Begions. 197 

proportion of powder. A bag of small shot was miss- 
ing, and we afterwards discovered that the Canadians 
had secreted and distributed it among themselves, in 
order that when provision should become scarce, they 
might privately procure ducks and geese, and avoid 
the necessity of sharing them with the officers. 



198 Thirty Years 



CHAPTEK IX. 

3u\y'i\. ^ e intended to have embarked early this morn- 
ing, and to have launched upon an element, which 
was more congenial with our habits than the fresh- 
water navigations, and their numerous difficulties and 
impediments we had hitherto encountered, but which 
was altogether new to our Canadian voyagers. We 
were detained, however^ by a strong north-east gale, 
which continued the whole day, with constant thunder 
showers ; the more provoking as our nets procured 
but few fish, and we had to draw upon our store of 
dried meat ; which, with other provision for the jour- 
ney, amounted only to fifteen days' consumption. 
Indeed, we should have preferred going dinnerless to 
bed rather than encroach on our small stock, had we 
not been desirous of -satisfying the appetites, and 
cheering the spirits of our Canadian companions at 
the commencement of our voyage. These thoughtless 
people would, at any time, incur the hazard of abso- 
lute starvation, at a future period, for the present 
gratification of their appetites ; to indulge which they 



In the Arctic Regions. 199 

do not hesitate, as we more than once experienced, 
helping themselves secretly ; it being, in their opinion, 
no disgrace to be caught in the act of pilfering food. 

Our only luxury now was a little salt, which had 
long been our substitute both for bread and vegetables. 
Since our departure from Point Lake we had boiled 
the Indian tea plant, ledum palustre, which produced 
a beverage in smell much resembling rhubarb; not- 
withstanding which we found it refreshing, and were 
gratified to see this plant flourishing abundantly, 
though of dwarfish growth, on the sea-shore. 

July 21. — The wind, which had blown strong 
through the night, became moderate in the morning, 
but a dense fog prevented us from embarking until 
noon, when we commenced our voyage on the Hyper- 
borean Sea. Soon afterwards we landed on an island 
where the Esquimaux had erected a stage of drift 
timber, and stored up many of their fishing imple- 
ments and winter sledges, together with a great many 
dressed seal, musk ox, and deer skins. Their spears 
headed with bone, and many small articles of the 
same material, were worked with extreme neatness, as 
well as their wooden dishes, and cooking utensils of 
stone ; and several articles very elegantly formed of 
bone, were evidently intended for some game, but 
Augustus was unacquainted with their use. We took 
from this deposit four seal-skins to repair our shoes, 



200 Thirty Years 



and left in exchange a copper-kettle, and some awls 
and beads. 

We paddled all day along the coast to the east- 
ward, on the inside of a crowded range of islands, and 
saw very little ice ; the " blink" of it, however, was 
visible to the northward, and one small iceberg was 
seen at a distance. A tide was distinguishable among 
the islands by the foam floating on the water, but we 
could not ascertain its direction. In the afternoon 
St. Germain killed, on an island, a fat deer, which 
was a great acquisition to us ; it was the first we had 
seen for some months in good condition. 

Having encamped on the main shore, after a run of; 
thirty-seven miles, we set up a pole to ascertain the 
rise and fall of the water, which was repeated at every 
halting-place, and Hepburn was ordered to attend to 
the result. We found the coast well covered with 
vegetation, of moderate height, even in its outline, 
and easy of approach. The islands are rocky and bar- 
ren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure. I 
have named the westernmost group of those we pass- 
ed " Berens' Isles," in honor of the Governor of the 
Hudson's Bay Company ; and the easternmost, " Sir 
Graham Moore's Islands." At the spot where we 
landed, some muscle- shells and a single piece of sea- 
weed lay on the beach ; this was the only spot en 
the coast where we saw shells. We were rejoiced to 



In the Arctic Regions. 201 

find the beach strewed with abundance of small drift- 
wood, none of it recent. 

It may be remarked that the Copper-Mine River 
does not bring down any drift-wood ; nor does any 
other known stream, except Mackenzie's River ; hence, 
from its appearance on this part of the coasfc, an east- 
erly current may be inferred. This evening we were 
all in high glee at the progress we had made ; the 
disappearance of the ice, and the continuance of the 
land in an eastern direction, and our future prospects 
formed an enlivening subject of conversation. The 
thermometer varied during the day between 43° and 
45°. The fishing nets were set, but produced nothing. 

On the 22d we embarked at four A.M., and having 
the benefit of a light breeze continued our voyage 
along the coast, under sail, until eleven, when we halt- 
ed to breakfast, and to obtain the latitude. The coast 
up to this point presented the same general appear- 
ance as yesterday, namely, a gravelly or sandy beach, 
skirted by green plains ; but as we proceeded, the 
shore became exceedingly rocky and sterile ; and, at 
last, projecting considerably to the northward, it form- 
ed a high and steep promontory. Some ice had drift- 
ed down upon this cape, which we feared might check 
our progress ; but, as the evening was fine, we ven- 
tured upon pushing the canoes through the small 

channels formed among it. After pursuirg this kind 

9* 



202 Thirty Years 



of navigation, with some danger and more anxiety, we 
landed and encamped on a smooth rocky point ; from 
whence we perceived, with much satisfaction, that the 
ice consisted only of detached pieces, which would be 
removed by the first breeze. We sounded in seven- 
teen fathoms, close to the shore, this day. The least 
depth ascertained by the lead, since our departure 
from the river, was six fathoms ; and it may be remark- 
ed, that any ship might pass safely between the 
islands and the main. The water is of a light green 
color, but not very clear ; and it is much less salt than 
that of the Atlantic, judging from our recollection of 
its taste. In the course of the day we saw geese and 
ducks with their young, and two deer ; and experien- 
ced very great variations of temperature, from the 
light breezes blowing alternately from the ice and the 
land. The name of si Lawford's Islands" was bestow- 
ed on a group we passed in the course of the' day, as a 
mark of my respect for Vice- Admiral Lawford, under 
whose auspices I first entered the naval service. 

A fresh breeze blowing through the night had 
driven the ice from the land, and opened a channel of 
a mile in width ; we therefore embarked at nine A.M. 
to pursue our journey along the coast, but at the dis • 
tance of nine miles were obliged to seek shelter in 
Port Epworth, the wind having become adverse, and 
too strong to admit of our proceeding. The Tree 



In the Arctic Begions. 203 

River of the Esquimaux, which discharges its waters 
into this bay, appears to be narrow, and much inter- 
rupted by rapids. The fishing-nets were set, but they 
obtained only one white fish and a few bull-heads, 
This part of the coast is the most sterile and inhospi- 
table that can be imagined. One trap cliff succeeds 
another with a tiresome uniformity, and their debris 
cover the narrow valleys that intervene, to the exclu- 
sion of every kind of herbage. From the summit of 
these cliffs the ice appeared in every direction. 

The wind abating, at eight P.M. we re-embarked, 
and soon afterwards discovered, on an island, a rein- 
deer, which the interpreters fortunately killed. Re- 
suming our voyage we were much impeded by the ice, 
and, at length, being unable to force a passage through 
a close stream that had collected round a cape, we 
put ashore at four A.M. On the 24th, several stone 
fox-traps, and other traces of the Esquimaux, were 
seen near to the encampment. The horizontal refrac- 
tion varied so much this morning, that the upper 
limb of the sun twice appeared at the horizon before 
it finally rose. 

For the last two days the water rose ar^d fell about 
nine inches. The tides, however, seemed to be very 
irregular, and we could not determine the direction of 
the ebb or flood. A current setting to the eastward 
was running about two miles an hotir during our stay, 



204 Thirty Years 



The ice having removed a short distance from the 
shore, by eleven A.M. we embarked, and with some 
difficulty effected a passage ; then making a traverse 
across Gray's Bay, we paddled up under the eastern 
shore against a strong wind. The interpreters landed 
here, and went in pursuit of a deer, but had no suc- 
cess. This part of the coast is indented by deep bays, 
which are separated by peninsulas formed like wedges, 
sloping many miles into the sea, and joined by low 
land to the main ; so that often mistaking them for 
islands, we were led by a circuitous route round the 
bays. Cliffs were numerous on the islands, which 
were all of the trap formation. 

At seven, a thunder-storm coming on, we encamped 
at the mouth of a river about eighty yards wide, and 
set four nets. This stream, which has received the 
name of Wentzel, after our late companion, discharges 
a considerable body of water. Its banks are sandy 
and clothed with herbage. The Esquimaux had re- 
cently piled up some drift timber here. A few ducks, 
ravens, and snow birds, were seen to-day. The dis- 
tance we made was thirty-one miles. 

July 25. — We had constant rain with thunder dur- 
ing the night. The nets furnished only three salmon- 
trout. We attributed the want of greater success to 
the entrance of some seals into the mouth of the river. 
Embarking at six A.M., we paddled against a cold 



In the Arctic Regions. 205 

breeze, until the spreading of a thick fog caused us to 
land. The rocks here consisted of a beautiful mixture 
of red and gray granite, traversed from north to south 
by veins of red felspar, which were crossed in various 
directions by smaller veins filled with the same sub- 
stance. 

At noon the wind coming from a favorable quarter 
tempted us to proceed, although the fog was unabated. 
We kept as close as we could to the main shore, but 
having to cross some bays, it became a matter of 
doubt whether we had not left the main, and were 
running along an island. Just as we were endeavor- 
ing to double a bold cape, the fog partially cleared 
away, and allowed us an imperfect view of a chain of 
islands on the outside, and of much heavy ice which 
was pressing down upon us. The shore near us was 
so steep and rugged that no landing of the cargoes 
could be effected, and we were preserved only by some 
men jumping on the rocks, and thrusting the ice off 
with poles. There was no alternative but to continue 
along this dreary shore, seeking a channel between the 
different masses of ice which had accumulated at the 
various points. In this operation both the canoes 
were in imminent danger of being crushed by the ice, 
which was now tossed about by the waves that the 
gale had excited. We effected a passage, however, 
and keeping close to the shore, landed at the entrance 



206 Thirty Years 



of Detention Harbor at nine P. M., having como 
twenty-eight miles. An old' Esquimaux encampment 
was traced on this spot ; and an ice chisel ; a copper 
knife, and a small iron knife were found under the 
turf. I have named this cape after Mr. Barrow of the 
Admiralty,, to whose exertions are mainly owing the 
discoveries that have recently been made in Arctic 
geography. An opening on its eastern side has re- 
ceived the appellation of Inman Harbor, after my 
friend the Professor at the Eoyal Naval College, 
Portsmouth ; and to a group of islands to seaward of 
it, we gave the name of Jameson, in honor of the dis- 
tinguished Professor of Mineralogy at Edinburgh. 

We had much wind and rain during the night, and 
by the morning of the 26th a great deal of ice had 
drifted into the inlet. We embarked at four and at- 
tempted to force a passage, when the first canoe got 
enclosed, and remained for some time in a very peril- 
ous situation ; the pieces of ice, crowded together by 
the action of the current and wind, pressing strongly 
against its feeble sides. A partial opening, however, 
occurring, we landed without having sustained any 
serious injury. Two men were then sent round the 
bay, and it was ascertained that instead of having 
entered a narrow passage between an island and the 
main, we were at the mouth of a harbor, having an 
island at its entrance ; and that it was necessary to 



In the Arctic Regions. 207 

return by the way we came, and get round a point to 
the northward. This was, however, impracticable, 
the channel being blocked up by drift ice ; and we 
had no prospect of release except by a change of wind. 
This detention was extremely vexatious, as We were 
losing the benefit of a fair wind, and expending our 
stock of provision. In the afternoon the weather 
cleared up, and several men went hunting, but they 
were unsuccessful. During the day the ice floated 
backwards and forwards in the harbor, moved by cur- 
rents, not regular enough to deserve the name of tide, 
and which appeared to be governed by the wind. We 
perceived great diminution by melting in the pieces 
near us. That none of this ice survives the summer 
is evident, from the rapidity of its decay ; and because 
no ice of last year's formation was hanging on the 
rocks. Whether any body of it exists at a distance 
from the shore, we cannot determine. ■ 

The land around Cape Barrow, and to Detention 
Harbor, consists of steep craggy mountains of granite 
rising so abruptly from the water's edge, as to admit 
of few landing places even for a canoe. The higher 
parts attain an elevation of one thousand four hundred 
or one thousand five hundred feet ; and the whole is 
entirely destitute of vegetation. 

On the morning of the 27th the ice remained 
stationary at the entrance ; we went to the bottom of 



208 Thirty Years 



the harbor, and carried the canoes and cargoes about 
a mile and a half across the point of land that forms 
the east side of it ; but the ice was not more favor- 
able there for our advancement than at the place we 
had left. It consisted of small pieces closely packed 
together by the wind extending along the shore, but 
leaving a clear passage beyond the chain of islands 
with which the whole of this coast is girt. Indeed, 
when we started we had little hope of finding a pas- 
sage ; and the principal object in moving was, to em- 
ploy the men, in order to prevent their reflecting upon 
and discussing the dangers of our situation, which we 
knew they were too apt to do when leisure permitted. 
Our observations place the entrance of Detention 
Harbor in latitude 67° 53' 45", longitude 110 9 41' 
20" W., variation 40° 49' 34" E. It is a secure 
anchorage, being sheltered from the wind in every di- 
rection ; the bottom is sandy. 

July 28. — As the ice continued in the same state, 
several of the men were sent out to hunt ; and one of 
them fired no less than four times at deer, but un- 
fortunately without success. It was satisfactory, 
however, to ascertain that the country was not desti- 
tute of animals. We had the mortification to dis- 
cover that two of the bags of pemmican, which was 
our principal reliance, had become mouldy by wet. 
Our beef, too, had been so badly cured, as to be 



In the Arctic Regions. 209 

scarcely eatable ; this was occasioned by our having 
been compelled, through haste, to dry it by fire instead 
of the sun. It was not, however, the quality of our 
provision that gave us uneasiness, but its diminution, 
and the utter incapacity to obtain any addition. Seals 
were the only animals that met our view at this place, 
and these we could never approach. 

Dr. Richardson discovered near the beach a small 
vein of galena, traversing gneiss rocks, and the people 
collected a quantity of it in the hope of adding to our 
stock of balls ; but their endeavors to smelt it, were, 
as may be supposed, ineffectual. The drift timber on 
this part of the coast consists of pine and tacca mahac, 
(populus balsamiferd) most probably from Macken- 
zie's, or some other river to the eastward of the Cop- 
per-Mine. It all appears to have lain long in the 
water, the bark being completely worn off, and the 
ends of the pieces rubbed perfectly smooth. There 
was a sharp frost last night, which formed a pretty 
thick crust of ice in a kettle of water that stood in the 
tents ; and for several nights past thin films of ice 
have been formed on the salt water amongst the cakes 
of stream ice.* Notwithstanding this state of tem- 
perature, we were tormented by swaims of musqui- 
toes ; we had persuaded ourselves that these pests 
could not sustain the cold in the vicinity of the sea, 

* This is termed bay ice by the Greenland-men. 



i 



210 Thirty Years 



but it appears they haunt every part of this country 
in defiance of climate. Mr. Back made an excursion 
to a hill at seven or eight miles distance, and from its 
summit he perceived the ice close to the shore as far 
as his view extended. 

On the morning of the 29th the party attended di- 
vine service. About noon the ice appearing less com- 
pact, we embarked to change our situation, having 
consumed all the fuel within our reach. The wind 
came off the land just as the canoes had started, and 
we determined on attempting to force a passage along 
the shore ; in which we fortunately succeeded, after 
seven hours' labor and much hazard to our frail ves- 
sels. The ice lay so close that the crews disembarked 
on it, and effected a passage by bearing against the 
pieces with their poles ; but in conducting the canoes 
through the narrow channels thus formed, the great- 
est care was requisite, to prevent the sharp projecting 
points from breaking the bark. They fortunately re- 
ceived no material injury, though they were split in 
two places. 

At the distance of three miles, we came to tne en- 
trance of a deep bay, whose bottom was filled by a 
body of ice so compact as to preclude the idea of a 
passage through it ; whilst at the same time, the tra- 
verse across its mouth was attended with much dan- 
ger, from the approach of a large field of ice, which 



In the Arctic Regions 211 

was driving down before the wind. The dread of fur- 
ther detention, however, prevented us from hesitating ; 
and we had the satisfaction of landing in an hour and 
a half on the opposite shore, where we halted to re- 
pair the canoes and to dine. I have named this bay 
after my friend Mr. Daniel Moore of Lincoln's Inn ; 
to whose zeal for science, the Expedition was indebt- 
ed for the use of a most valuable chronometer. Its 
shores are picturesque ; sloping hills receding from 
the beach, and clothed with verdure, bound its bot- 
tom and western side ; and lofty cliffs of slate clay, 
with their intervening grassy valleys, skirt its eastern 
border. Embarking at midnight, we pursued our voy- 
age without interruption, passing between the Stock- 
port and Marcet Islands and the main, until -six A.M. 
on July 30th ; when having rounded Point Kater, we 
entered Arctic Sound, and were again involved in a 
stream of ice, but after considerable delay extricated 
ourselves, and proceeded towards the bottom of the 
inlet in search of the mouth of a river, which we sup- 
posed it to receive, from the change in the color of 
the water. 

About ten A.M. we landed, to breakfast on a small 
deer which St. Germain had killed : and sent men in 
pursuit of some others in sight, but with which they 
did not come up. Re-embarking, we passed the river 
without perceiving it, and entered a deep arm of the 



212 Thirty Years 



sound ; which I have named Baillie's Cove, in honor 
of a relative of the lamented Mr. Hood. As it was 
too late to return, we encamped, and by walking across 
the country, discovered the river, whose mouth being 
barred by low sandy islands and banks, was not per- 
ceived when we passed it. Course and distance from 
Galena Point to this encampment, were S.E.fS. — 
forty-one miles. 

From the accounts of Black-meat and Boileau at 
Fort Chipewyan, we considered this river to be the 
Anatessy ; and Cape Barrow to be the projection 
which they supposed to be the N.E. termination of 
America. The outline of the coast, indeed, bears 
some resemblance to the chart they sketched ; and 
the distance of this river from the Copper-Mine, nearly 
coincides with what we estimated the Anatessy to be, 
from their statements. In our subsequent journey, 
however, across the barren grounds, we ascertained 
that this conjecture was wrong, and that the Anatessy, 
which is known to come from Eum Lake, must fall 
into the sea to the eastward of this place. 

Our stock of provision being now reduced to eight 
days' consumption, it had become a matter of the first 
importance to obtain a supply ; and as we had learned 
from Terregannoeuck that the Esquimaux frequent 
the rivers at this season, I determined on seeking a 
communication with them here, with the view of ob- 



In the Arctic Regions. 213 

taming relief for our present wants, or even shelter for 
the winter, if the season should prevent us from re- 
turning either to the Hook's party, orFortEnterprize ; 
and I was the more induced to take this step at this 
time, as several deer had been seen to-day, and the 
river appeared good for fishing ; which led me to hope 
we might support the party during our stay, if not 
add to our stock by our own exertions in hunting and 
fishing. Augustus, Junius, and Hepburn, were there- 
fore furnished with the necessary presents, and desired 
to go along the bank of the river as far as they could, 
on the following day, in search of the natives, to ob- 
tain provision and leather, as well as information 
respecting the coast. 

They started at four A.M., and at the same time 
our hunters were sent off in search of deer ; and the 
rest of the party proceeded in the canoes to the first 
cascade in the river, at the foot of which we encamped, 
and set four nets. This cascade, produced by a ridge 
of rocks crossing the stream, is about three or four 
feet in height, and about two hundred and fifty yards 
wide. Its position by our observations is latitude 67° 
19' 23" K, longitude 109° 44' 30" W., variation 41° 
43' 22', dip88° 58' 48". I have named this river Hood, 
as a small tribute to the memory of our lamented 
friend and companion. It is from three to four hun- 
dred yards wide below the cascade, but it is in many 



214 Thirty Years 



places very shallow. The banks, bottom, and adja- 
cent hills, are formed of a mixture of sand and clay. 
The ground was overspread with small willows and the 
dwarf birch, both too diminutive for fuel ; and the 
stream brought down no drift wood. We were morti- 
fied to find the nets only procured one salmon and 
five white fish, and that we had to make another in- 
road upon our dried meat. 

August 1. — At two this morning the hunters re- 
turned with two small deer and a brown bear. Au- 
gustus and Junius arrived at the same time, having 
traced the river twelve miles further up, without dis- 
covering any vestige of inhabitants. We had now 
an opportunity of gratifying our curiosity respecting 
the bear*so much dreaded by the Indians, and of whose 
strength and ferocity we had heard such terrible ac- 
counts. It proved to be a lean male of a yellowish 
brown color, and not longer than a common black 
bear. It made a feeble attempt to defend itself, and 
was easily despatched. The flesh was brought to the 
tent, but our fastidious voyagers supposing, from its 
leanness, the animal had been sickly, declined eating 
it ; the officers, however, being less scrupulous, boiled 
the paws, and found them excellent. 

We embarked at ten A.M., and proceeding down 
the river, took on board another deer that had been 
killed by Credit last evening. We then ran along 



In the Artie Regions. 215 

the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, distinguished by 
the name of Bank's Peninsula, in honor of the late 
Right Honorable Sir Joseph Banks, President of the 
Royal Society ; and rounding Point Wollaston at its 
eastern extremity, opened another extensive sheet of 
water ; and the remainder of the afternoon was spent 
in endeavoring to ascertain, from the tops of the hills, 
whether it was another bay, or merely a passage en- 
closed by a chain of islands. Appearances rather 
favoring the latter opinion, we determined on proceed- 
ing through it to the southward. During the delay 
four more deer were killed, all young and lean. It 
appears that the coast is pretty well frequented by 
reindeer at thi>~ season ; but it is rather singular, that 
hitherto we ha e killed none (excepting the first) but 
young ones of ist season, which were all too lean to 
aave been eate . by any but persons who had no choice. 
We paddle- along the western shore with the inten- 
sion of encar .ping, but were prevented from the want 
of drift woe \ on the beach. This induced us to make 
a traverse $ > an island, where we put up at midnight, 
having foa: 1 a small bay, whose shores furnished us 
with a VJ e fire- wood. A heavy gale came on from 
the westv rd, attended with constant rain, and one of 
the squalls overthrew our tents. The course and dis • 
tance made to-day were north-east sixteen miles and 
a- half. I may here mention, that Arctic Sound ap- 



216 Thirty Years 

pears to be the most convenient, and perhaps the best, 
place for ships to anchor that we have seen along the 
coast ; at this season especially, when they might in- 
crease their stock of provision, if provided with good 
marksmen. Deer are numerous in its vicinity, musk- 
oxen also may be found up Hood's Eiver, and the fine 
sandy bottom of the bays promise favorably for fishing 
with the seine. The hills on the western side are 
even in their outline and slope gradually to the water's 
edge. The rocks give place to an alluvial sandy soil, 
towards the bottom of the sound ; but on Banks' 
Peninsula rocky eminences again prevail, which are 
rugged and uneven, but they are intersected by val- 
leys, now green ; along their base is a fine sandy beach. 
From Point Wollaston to our present encampment the 
coast is skirted with trap cliffs, which have often a 
columnar form, and are very difficult of access. These 
cliffs lie in ranges parallel to the shore, and the deer 
that we killed were feeding in small marshy grassy 
plats that lie in the valleys between them. 

Being detained by the continuance of the gale, on 
the 2d of August some men were sent out to hunt, 
and the officers visited the tops of the highest hills, 
to ascertain the best channels to be pursued. The 
wind abating at ten P.M., we embarked and paddled 
round the southern end of the island, and continued 
our course to the south-east. Much doubt at this 



Li the Arctic Regions. 217 

time prevailed as to the laud on the right being the 
main shore, or merely a chain of islands. The latter 
opinion was strengthened by the broken appearance 
of the land, and the extensive view we had up Brown's 
Channel, (named after my friend Mr. Kobert Brown,) 
the mouth of which we passed, and were in some ap- 
prehension of being led away from the main shore ; 
and, perhaps, after passing through a group of islands, 
of coming to a traverse greater than we durst venture 
upon in canoes. On the other hand, the continuous 
appearance of the land on the north side of the chan- 
nel, and its tending to the southward, produced a fear 
that; we were entering a deep inlet. 

In this state of doubt we landed often, and endea- 
vored, from the summits of the highest hills adjoining 
the shore, to ascertain the true nature of the coast, but 
in vain, and we continued paddling through the chan- 
nel all night against a fresh breeze, which, at half past 
four, increased to a violent gale, and compelled us to 
land. The gale diminished a short time after noon 
on the 3d, and permitted us to re-embark and continue 
our voyage until four P.M., when it returned with its 
former violence, and finally obliged us to encamp, hav- 
ing come twenty-four miles on a south-east three-quar- 
ter south course. 

From the want of drift wood to make a fire we had 

fasted all dav, and were under the necessity, in the 

10 



218 Thirty Years 



evening, of serving out pemmiean, which was done 
with much reluctance, especially as we had some fresh 
deers' meat remaining. The inlet, when viewed from 
a high hill adjoining to our encampment, exhibited so 
many arms, that the course we ought to pursue was 
more uncertain than ever. It was absolutely necessary, 
however, to see the end of it before we could deter- 
mine that it was not a strait. Starting at three A.M., 
on the 4th, we paddled the whole day through chan- 
nels, from two to five or six miles wide, all tending to 
the southward. In the course of the day's voyage we 
ascertained, that the land which we had seen on our 
right hand since yesterday morning, consisted of sev 
eral large islands, which have been distinguished by 
the names of Goulburn, Elliot, and Young ; but the 
land on our left preserved its unbroken appearance, 
and when we encamped, we were still uncertain whe- 
ther it was the eastern side of a deep sound or merely 
a large island. It differed remarkably from the main 
.shore, being very rugged, rocky, and sterile, whereas 
the outline of the main on the opposite side was even, 
and its hills covered with a comparatively good sward 
of grass, and exhibited little naked rock. There was 
no drift timber, but the shores near the encampment 
were strewed with small pieces of willow, which indi- 
cated our vicinity to the mouth of a river. This fuel 
enabled us to make a hearty supper off a small deer 
killed this evening. 



in the Arctic Regions. 219 

The shallows we passed to-day were covered with 
shoals of capelin, the angmaggceiik of the Esquimaux. 
It was known to Augustus, who informed us that it 
frequents the coast of Hudson's Bay, and is delicate 
eating. The course and distance made was, south by 
east half east, thirty- three miles. 

After paddling twelve miles in the morning of the 
5th, we had the mortification to find the inlet termi- 
nated by a river ; the size of which we could not as- 
certain, as the entrance was blocked by shoals. I 
have named this stream Back, as a mark of my friend- 
ship for my associate. We were somewhat consoled 
for the loss of time in exploring this inlet, by the 
success of Junius in killing a musk-ox, the first we 
had seen on the coast ; and afterwards by the acquisi 
tion of the flesh of a bear, that was shot as we were 
returning up the eastern side in the evening. The 
latter proved to be a female, in very excellent condi- 
tion ; and our Canadian voyagers, whose appetite for 
fat meat is insatiable, were delighted. 

We encamped on the shores of a sandy bay, -and 
set the nets ; and finding a quantity of dried willows 
on the beach, we were enabled to cook the bear's 
flesh, which was superior to any meat we had tasted 
on the coast. The water fell two feet at this place 
during the night. Our pets produced a great variety 
of fish, namely, a salmon-trout, some round fish, 



220 Thirty Years 



tittameg, bleak, star-fish, several herrings, and a flat 
fish resembling plaice, but covered on the back with 
horny excrescences. 

On the 6th we were detained in the encampment by 
stormy weather until five P.M., when we embarked 
and paddled along the northern shore of the inlet ; 
the weather still continuing foggy, but the wind mod- 
erate. Observing on the beach a she bear with three 
young ones, we landed a party to attack them ; but, 
being approached without due caution, they took the 
alarm and scaled a precipitous rocky hill, with a 
rapidity that baffled all pursuit. At eight o'clock, 
the fog changing into rain, we encamped. Many 
seals were seen to-day, but as they kept in deep water 
we did not fire at them. 

On August 7th the atmosphere was charged with 
fog and rain all the day, but as the wind was moderate, 
we pursued our journey ; our situation, however, was 
very unpleasant, being quite wet and without room to 
stretch a limb, much less to obtain warmth by exer- 
cise. We passed a cove, which I have named after 
my friend Mr. W. H. Tinney ; and proceeded along 
the coast until five P.M., when we put up on a rocky 
point nearly opposite to our encampment on the 3d, 
having come twenty-three miles on a north-north-wesfc 
course. 

We were detained on the 8th by a northerly gale, 



In the Arctic Regions. 221 

which blew violently throughout the day, attended 
by fog and rain. Some of the men went out to hunt, 
but they saw no other animal than a white wolf, which 
could not be approached. The fresh meat being ex- 
panded, a little pemmican was served out this evening. 

The gale abated on the morning of the 9 th ; and 
the sea, which it had raised, having greatly subsided, 
we embarked at seven A.M., and after paddling three 
or four miles, opened Sir J. A. Gordon's Bay, into 
which we penetrated thirteen miles, and then dis- 
covered from the summit of a hill that it would be 
vain to proceed in this direction, in search of a passage 
out of the inlet. 

Our breakfast diminished our provision to two bags 
of pemmican, and a single meal of dried meat. The 
men began to apprehend absolute want of food, and 
we had to listen to their gloomy forebodings of the 
deer entirely quitting the coast in a few days. As we 
were embarking, however, a large bear was discovered 
on the opposite shore, which we had the good fortune 
to kill ; and the sight of this fat meat relieved their 
fears for the present. Dr. Richardson found in the 
stomach of this animal the remains of a seal, several 
marmots, a large quantity of the liquorice root of 
Mackenzie, which is common on these shores, and 
some berries. There was also intermixed with these 
substances a small quantity of grass. 



222 Thirty Years 



We got again into the main inlet, and paddled 
along its eastern shore until forty minutes after eight 
A.M., when we encamped in a small cove. We found 
a single log of drift wood ; it was pine, and sufficient- 
ly large to enable us to cook a portion of the bear, 
which had a slight fishy taste, but was deemed very 
palatable. 

August 10. — We followed up the east border of 
the. inlet about twenty-four miles, and at length emer- 
ged into the open sea ; a body of islands to the west- 
ward concealing the channel by which we had entered. 
Here our progress was arrested by returning bad wea-^ 
ther. We killed a bear and its young cub of this 
year, on the beach near to our encampment. We 
heartily congratulated ourselves at having arrived at 
the eastern entrance of this inlet, which had cost us 
nine invaluable days in exploring. It contains several 
secure harbors, especially near the mouth of Back's 
Eiver, where there is a sandy bottom in forty fathoms. 
There also fish are plentiful, and reindeer and musk- 
oxen may be procured at this season, by spending a 
little time in hunting. 

On the 3d and 4th of August we observed a fall of 
more than two feet in the water during the night. 
There are various irregular and partial currents in the 
inlet, which may be attributed to the wind. I have 
distinguished it by the name Bathursfs Inlet, in hon- 



In the Arctic Regions. 223 

or of the noble Secretary of State, under whose orders 
I had the honor to act. It runs about seventy-six 
miles south-east from Cape Everitt, but in coasting 
its shores we went about one hundred and seventy-four 
geographical miles. It is remarkable that none of the 
Indians with whom we had spoken had mentioned this 
inlet ; and we subsequently learned, that in their jour- 
neys they strike across from the mouth of one river 
to the mouth of another, without tracing the interme- 
diate line of coast. 

August 11. — Embarking at five A.M., we rounded 
Point Everitt, and then encountered a strong breeze 
and heavy swell, which by causing the canoes to pitch 
very much, greatly impeded our progress. Some deer 
being seen grazing in a valley near the beach, we land- 
ed, and sent St. Germain and Adam in pursuit of 
them, who soon killed three which were very small 
and lean. Their appearance, however, quite revived 
the spirits of our men, who had suspected that the 
deer had retired to the woods. It would appear, from 
our not having seen any in passing along the shores of 
Bathurst's Inlet, that at this season they confine them- 
selves to the sea-coast and the islands. The magpie 
berries (arbutus alpind) were found quite ripe at this 
place, and very abundant on the acclivities of the hills, 
We also ascended the highest hill, and gained a view 
of a distant chain of islands, extending as far as the 



224 Thirty Tears 



eye could reach, and perceived a few patches of ice 
still remaining near to some of them ; but in every 
other part the sea was quite open. Resuming our 
voyage after noon, we proceeded along the coast, which 
is fringed by islands ; and, at five P.M., entered ano- 
ther bay, where we were for some time involved in our 
late difficulties by the intricacy of the passages ; but 
we cleared them in the afternoon, and encamped near 
the northern entrance of the bay, at a spot which had 
recently been visited by a small party of Esquimaux, 
as the remains of some eggs, containing young, were 
lying beside some half-burnt fire- wood. There were 
also several piles of stones put up by them. I have 
named this bay after my friend, Captain David Bu- 
chan, of the Royal Navy. It appears to be a safe an- 
chorage, being well sheltered from the wind and sea by 
islands ; the bottom is sandy. Its shores are high, . 
and composed of red sand-stone. Two deer were seen 
on its beach, but could not be approached. The dis- 
tance we made to-day was eighteen miles and three- 
quarters. 

Embarking at four on the morning of the 12th, we 
proceeded against a fresh piercing north-east wind, 
which raised the waves to a height that quite terrified 
our people, accustomed only to the navigation of rivers 
and lakes. We were obliged, however, to persevere in 
our advance, feeling, as we did, that the short season 



In the Arctic Begions. 225 

for our operations was hastening away ; but after 
rounding Cape Croker the wind became so strong that 
we could proceed no further. The distance we had 
made being only six miles on a north-east by east 
course. The shore on which we encamped is formed 
of the debris of red sand-stone, and is destitute of vege- 
tation. The beach furnishes no drift wood, and we 
dispensed with our usual meal rather than expend 
our pemmican. Several deer were seen, but the hunt- 
ers could not approach them ; they killed two swans. 
We observed the latitude 68° 1' 20", where we halted 
to breakfast this morning. 

August 13. — Though the wind was not diminished, 
we were urged, by the want of fire-wood, to venture 
upon proceeding. We paddled close to the shore for 
some miles, and then ran before the breeze with reefed 
sails, scarcely two feet in depth. Both the canoes 
received much water, and one of them struck twice on 
sunken rocks. At the end of eighteen miles we halted 
to breakfast in a bay, which I have named after Vice- 
Admiral Sir William Johnstone Hope, one of the 
Lords of the Admiralty. 

We found here a considerable quantity of small 
willows, such as are brought down by the rivers we 
have hitherto seen ; and hence we judged, that a river 
discharges itself into the bottom of this bay. A pad- 
dle was also found, which Augustus, on examination, 
10* 



226 Thirty Years 



declared to be made after the fashion of the White 
Goose Esquimaux, a tribe with whom his countrymen 
had had some trading communication, as has been 
mentioned in a former part of the Narrative. 

This morning we passed the embouchure of a pretty- 
large stream, and saw the vestiges of an Esquimaux 
encampment not above a month old. Having obtained 
the latitude 68° 6' 40" N., we recommenced our voy- 
age under sail, taking the precaution to embark all the 
pieces of willow we could collect, as we had found the 
drift wood become more scarce as we advanced. Our 
course was directed to a distant point, which we sup- 
posed to be a cape, and the land stretching to the 
westward of it to be islands ; but we soon found our- 
selves in an extensive bay, from which no outlet could 
be perceived but the one by which we had entered. 
After examining, however, from the top of a hill, we 
found a winding shallow passage running to the north- 
west, which we followed for a short time and then en- 
camped, having come twenty-three miles, north by 
east half east. 

Some articles left by the Esquimaux attracted our 
attention ; we found a winter sledge raised upon four 
stones, with some snow-shovels, and a small piece of 
whalebone. An ice-chisel, a knife, and some beads, 
were left at this pile. The shores of this bay, which 
I have named after Sir George Warrender, are low 



In the Arctic Regions. 227 

and clayey, and the country for many miles is level, 
and much intersected with water ; but we had not 
leisure to ascertain whether they were branches of the 
bay or fresh- water lakes. Some white geese were seen 
this evening, and some young grey ones were caught 
on the beach, being unable to fly. We fired at two 
reindeer, but without success. 

On August 14th we paddled the whole day along 
the northern shores of the sound, returning towards 
its mouth. The land which we were now tracing is 
generally so fiat, that it could not be described from 
the canoes at the distance of four miles, and is invisi- 
ble from the opposite side of the sound, otherwise a 
short traverse might have saved us some days. The 
few eminences that are on this side were mistaken for 
islands when seen from the opposite shore ; they are 
for the most part cliffs of basalt, and are not above 
one hundred feet high ; the subjacent strata are of 
white sand-stone. The rocks are mostly confined to 
the capes and shores, the soil inland being flat, clayey, 
and barren. Most of the headlands shewed traces of 
visits from the Esquimaux, but none of them recent. 
Many ducks were seen to-day, belonging to a species 
termed by the voyagers, from their cry, " caccawees." 
We also saw some grey geese and swans. The only 
seal we procured during our voyage, was killed this 
day ; it happened to be blind, and our men imagining 



228 Thirty Years 

it to be in bad health, would not taste the flesh ; we, 
however, were less nice. 

We encamped at the end of twenty- four miles' 
march, on the north-west side of a bay, to which I 
have given the name of my friend Captain Parry, now 
employed in the interesting research for a North- West 
Passage. Drift wood had become very scarce, and we 
found none near the encampment ; a fire, however, 
was not required, as we served out pemmican for sup- 
per, and the evening was unusually warm. 

On the following morning the breeze was fresh, and 
the waves rather high. In paddling along the west 
side of Parry's Bay, we saw several deer, but owing 
to the openness of the country, the hunters could not 
approach them. They killed, however, two swans 
that were moulting, several cranes, and many grey 
geese. We procured also some caccawees, which were 
then moulting and assembled in immense flocks. In 
the evening, having rounded Point Beechy, and passed 
Hurd's Islands, we were exposed to much inconveni- 
ence and danger from a heavy rolling sea ; the canoes 
receiving many severe blows, and shipping a good 
deal of water, which induced us to encamp at five 
P.M. opposite to Cape Croker, which we had passed 
on the morning of the 12th ; the channel, which lay be- 
tween our situation and it, being about seven miles 
wide. We had now reached the northern point of en- 



In the Arctic Regions. 229 

traDce into this sound, which I have named in honoi 
of Lord Viscount Melville, the First Lord of the Ad- 
miralty. It is thirty miles wide from east to west, 
and twenty from north to south ; and in coasting it 
we had sailed eighty-seven and a quarter geographi- 
cal miles. Shortly after the tents were pitched, Mr. 
Back reported from the steersmen that both canoes 
had sustained material injury during this day's voyage. 
I found upon examination that fifteen timbers of the 
first canoe were broken, some of them in two places, 
and that the second canoe was so loose in the frame 
that its timbers could not be bound in the usual se- 
cure manner, and consequently there was danger of its 
bark separating from the gunwales if exposed to a 
heavy sea. Distressing as were these circumstances, 
they gave me less pain than the discovery that oiu 
people, who had hitherto displayed, in following us 
through dangers and difficulties no less novel than ap- 
palling to them, a courage beyond our expectation, 
now felt serious apprehensions for their safety, which 
so possessed their minds that they were not restrained 
even by the presence of their officers from expressing 
them. Their fears, we imagined, had been principally 
excited by the interpreters, St. Germain and Adam, 
who from the outset had foreboded every calamity ; 
and we now strongly suspected that their recent want 
of success in their hunting excursions, had proceeded 



230 Thirty Tears 



from an intentional relaxation in their efforts to kill 
deer, in order that the want of provision might compel 
us to put a period to our voyage. 

I must now mention that many concurrent circum- 
stances had caused me, during the few last days, to 
meditate on the approach of this painful necessity. 
The strong breezes we had encountered for some days, 
led me to fear that the season was breaking up, and 
severe weather would soon ensue, which we could not 
sustain in a country destitute of fuel. Our stock of 
provision was now reduced to a quantity of pemmican 
only sufficient for three days' consumption, and the 
prospect of increasing it was not encouraging, for 
though reindeer were seen, they could not be easily 
approached on the level shores we were now coasting, 
besides, it was to be apprehended they would soon 
migrate to the south. It was evident that the time 
spent in exploring the Arctic and Melville Sounds, 
and Bathurst's Inlet, had precluded the hope of reach- 
ing Kepulse Bay, which at the outset of the voyage 
we had fondly cherished ; and it was equally obvious 
that as our distance from any of the trading establish- 
ments would increase as we proceeded, the hazardous 
traverse across the barren grounds, which we should 
have to make, if compelled to abandon the canoes 
upon any part of the coast, would become greater. 
I this evening communicated to the officers my sen- 



In the Arctic Regions. 231 



timents on these points, as well as respecting our re- 
turn, and was happy to find that their opinions coin- 
cided with my own. We were all convinced of the 
necessity of putting a speedy termination to our ad- 
vance, as the hope which we had cherished of meeting 
the Esquimaux and procuring provision from them, 
could now scarcely be entertained ; but yet we were 
desirous of proceeding, until the land should be seen 
trending again to the eastward ; that we might be 
satisfied of its separation from what we had conceived, 
in passing from Cape Barrow to Bathurst's Inlet, to 
be a great chain of islands. As it was necessary, 
however, at all events, to set a limit to our advance, 
I announced my determination of returning after four 
days examination, unless, indeed, we should previous- 
ly meet the Esquimaux, and be enabled to make 
some arrangement for passing the winter with them. 
This communication was joyfully received by the men, 
and we hoped that the industry of our hunters being 
once more excited, we should be able to add to our 
stock of provision. 

It may here be remarked that we observed the first 
regular return of the tides in Warrender's and Parry's 
Bays ; but their set could not be ascertained. The 
rise of the water did not amount to more than two 
feet. Course to-dav south one quarter east— nine 
miles and a quarter. 



232 Thirty Years 



August 16. — Some rain fell in the night, but the 
morning was unusually fine. We set forward at five 
A. M., and the men paddled cheerfully along the coast 
for ten miles, when a dense fog caused us to land on 
Slate-clay Point. Here we found more traces of the 
Esquimaux, and the skull of a man placed between 
two rocks. The fog dispersed at noon, and we dis- 
cerned a group of islands to the northward, which I 
have named after Vice- Admiral Sir George Cockburn, 
one of the Lords of the Admiralty. Re-embarking, 
we rounded the point and entered Walker's Bay, where, 
as in other instances, the low beach which lay between 
several high trap cliffs, could not be distinguished un- 
til we had coasted down the east side nearly to the 
bottom of the bay. When the continuity of the land 
was perceived, we crossed to the western shore, and 
on landing, discovered a channel leading through a 
group of islands. Having passed through this chan- 
nel, we ran under sail by the Porden Islands, across 
Kiley's Bay, and rounding a cape which now bears the 
name of my lamented friend Captain Flinders, had the 
pleasure to find the coast trending north-north-east, 
with the sea in the offing unusually clear of islands ; 
a circumstance which afforded matter of wonder to our 
Canadians, who had not previously had an uninter- 
rupted view of the ocean. 

Our course was continued along the coast until 



In the Arctic Regions. 233 

eight P.M., when a change in the wind and a threat- 
ening thunder squall induced us to encamp ; but the 
water was so shallow, that we found some difficulty 
in approaching the shore. Large pieces of drift wood 
gave us assurance that we had finally escaped from 
the bays. Our tents were scarcely pitched before we 
were assailed by a heavy squall and rain, which was 
succeeded by a violent gale from west-north-west ; 
which thrice overset the tents in the course of the 
night. The wind blew with equal violence on the fol- 
lowing day, and the sea rolled furiously upon the 
beach. The Canadians had now an opportunity of 
witnessing the effect of a storm upon the sea ; and 
the sight increased their desire of quitting it. 

Our hunters were sent out, and saw many deer, but 
the flatness of the country defeated their attempts to 
approach them ; they brought, however, a few un- 
fledged geese. As there was no appearance of increas- 
ing our stock of provision, the allowance was limited 
to a handful of pemmican, and a small portion of por- 
table soup to each man per day. The thermometer 
this afternoon stood at 41°. The following observa- 
tions were obtained : latitude, 68° 18' 50" K, longi- 
tude 110' 5' 15" W. ; but 109° 25' 00" W. was used 
in the construction of the chart, as the chronometers 
were foand, on our return to Hood's River, to have 
altered their rates ; variation 44° 15' 46" E., and dip 
of the needle 89° 31' 12". 



234 Thirty Years 



On August 18th the stormy weather and sea con- 
tinuing, there was no prospect of our being able to 
embark. Dr. Kichardson, Mr. Back, and I, therefore, 
set out on foot to discover whether the land within a 
day's march, inclined more to the east. We went 
from ten to twelve miles along the coast, which con- 
tinued flat, and kept the same direction as the en- 
campment. The most distant land we saw had the 
same bearing north-north-east, and appeared like two 
islands, which we estimated to be six or seven miles 
off ; the shore on their inside seemingly trended more 
to the east, so that it is probable Point Turnagain, 
for so this spot was named, forms the pitch of a low 
flat cape. 

Augustus killed a deer in the afternoon, but the 
men were not able to find it. The hunters found the 
burrows of a number of white foxes, and Hepburn 
killed one of these , animals, which proved excellent 
eating, esteemed by us as equal to the young geese, 
with which it was boiled, and far superior to the lean 
deer we had upon the coast. Large flocks of geese 
passed over the tents, flying to the southward. The 
lowest temperature to-day was 38°. 

Though it will appear from the chart, that the posi- 
tion of Point Turnagain is only six degrees and a half 
to the east of the mouth of the Copper-Mine Eiver , 
we sailed, in tracing the deeply-indented coast, five 
hundred and fifty-five geographic miles, which is little 



In the Arctic Regions. 235 

less than the direct distance between the Copper- Mine 
River and Repulse Bay ; supposing the latter to be 
in the longitude assigned to it by Middleton. 

When the many perplexing incidents which occurred 
during the survey of the coast are considered in con- 
nection with the shortness of the period, during which 
operations of the kind can be carried on, and the dis- 
tance we had to travel before we could gain a place of 
shelter for the winter, I trust it will be judged that 
we prosecuted the enterprize as far as was prudent, 
and abandoned it only under a well-founded conviction 
that a further advance would endanger the lives of the 
whole party, and prevent the knowledge of what had 
been done from reaching England. The active assist- 
ance I received from the officers, in contending with 
the fears of the men, demands my warmest gratitude. 

Our researches as far as they have gone, seem to 
favor the opinion of those who contend for the practi- 
cability of a North- West Passage. The general line 
of coast probably runs east and west, nearly in the 
latitude assigned to Mackenzie's River, the Sound 
into which Kotzebue entered, and Repulse Bay ; and 
very little doubt can, in my opinion, be entertained of 
the existence of a continued sea, in or about that line 
of direction. The existence of whales, too, on this 
part of the coast, evidenced by the whalebone we found 
in Esquimaux Cove, may be considered as an argu- 
ment for an open sea ; and a connection with Hud- 



236 Thirty Years 



son's Bay is rendered more probable from the same 
kind of fish abounding on the coasts we visited, and 
on those to the north of Churchill Eiver. I allude 
more particularly to the Capelin or Salmo Arcticus, 
which we found in large shoals in Bathurst's Inlet, 
and which not only abounds, as Augustus told us, in 
the bays in his country, but swarms in the Greenland 
firths. The portion of the sea over which we passed 
is navigable for vessels of any size ; the ice we met, 
particularly after quitting Detention Harbor, would 
not have arrested a strong boat. The chain of islands 
affords shelter from all heavy seas, and there are good 
harbors at convenient distances. I entertain indeed, 
sanguine hopes that the skill and exertions of my 
friend Captain Parry will soon render this question no 
longer problematical. His task is doubtless an 
arduous one, and, if ultimately successful, may occupy 
two and perhaps three seasons ; but confiding as I do, 
from personal knowledge, in his perseverance and 
talent for surmounting difficulties, the strength of his 
ships, and the abundance of provisions with which 
they are stored, I have very little apprehension of his 
safety. As I understand his object was to keep the 
coast of America close on board, he will find in the 
spring of the year, before the breaking up of the ice 
can permit him to pursue his voyage, herds of deer 
flocking in abundance to all parts of the coast, which 
may be procured without difficulty ; and, even late» 



In the Arctic Regions. 237 

k *ie season, additions to his stock of provision may 
be obtained on many parts of the coast, should cir- 
cumstances give him leisure to send out hunting 
parties. With the trawl or seine nets also, he may 
almost every where get abundance of fish even without 
retarding his progress. Under these circumstances I 
do not conceive that he runs any hazard of wanting 
provisions, should his voyage be prolonged even 
beyond the latest period of time which is calculated 
upon. Drift timber may be gathered at many places 
in considerable quantities, and there is a fair prospect 
of his opening a communication with the Esquimaux, 
who come down to the coast to kill seals in the spring, 
previous to the ice breaking up ; and from whom, if 
he succeeds in conciliating their good will, he may 
obtain provision, and much useful assistance. 

If he makes for Copper-Mine River, as he probably 
will do, he will not find it in the longitude as laid 
down on the charts ; but he will probably find what 
would be more interesting to him, a post which we 
erected on the 26th August at the mouth of Hood's 
River, which is nearly, as will appear hereafter, in 
that longitude, with a flag upon, it, and a letter at the 
foot of it, which may convey to him some useful in- 
formation. It is possible, however, that he might 
keep outside of the range of islands which skirt this 
part of the coast. 



538 Thirty Years 



CHAPTEK X. 

Au|St 17. My original intention, whenever the season 
should compel us to relinquish the survey, had been 
to return by the way of the Copper-Mine Kiver, and, 
in pursuance of my arrangement with the Hook to 
travel to Slave Lake through the line of woods extend- 
ing thither by the Great Bear and Marten Lakes, but 
our scanty stock of provision and the length of the 
voyage rendered it necessary to make for a nearer 
place. We had already found that the country, be- 
tween Cape Barrow and the Copper-Mine Biver, would 
not supply our wants, and this it seemed probable 
would now be still more the case ; besides, at this ad- 
vanced season, we expected the frequent recui rence of 
gales, which would cause great detention, if not dan- 
ger in proceeding along that very rocky part of the 
coast. 

I determined, therefore, to make at once for Arctic 
Sound, where we had found the animals more numer- 
ous than at any other place ; and entering Hood's 



In the Arctic Regions. 239 



.River, to advance up that stream as far as it was navi- 
gable, and then to construct small canoes out of the 
materials of the larger ones, "which could be carried in 
crossing the barren grounds to Fort Enterprize. 

August 19. — We. were almost beaten out of our 
comfortless abodes by rain during the night, and this 
morning the gale continued without diminution. The 
thermometer fell to 33°. Two men were sent with 
Junius to search for the deer which Augustus had kill- 
ed. Junius returned in the evening bringing part of 
the meat, but owing to the thickness of the weather, 
his companions parted from him and did not make 
their appearance. Divine service was read. On the 
20th we were presented with the most chilling pros- 
pect, the small pools of water being frozen over, the 
ground being covered with snow, and the thermometer 
at the freezing point at mid-day. Flights of geese 
were passing to the southward. The wind however 
was more moderate, having changed to the eastward. 
Considerable anxiety prevailing respecting Belanger 
and Michel, the two men who strayed from Junius 
yesterday, the rest were sent out to look for them. 
The search was successful, and ■ they all returned in 
the evening. The stragglers were much fatigued, and 
had suffered severely from the cold, one of them hav- 
ing his thighs frozen, and what under our circumstan- 
ces was most grievous, they had thrown away all the 



240 Thirty Years 



meat. The wind during the night returned to the 
north-west quarter, blew more violently than ever, and 
raised a very turbulent sea. The next day did not 
improve our condition, the snow remained on the 
ground, and the small pools were frozen. Our hunt- 
ers were sent out, but they returned after a fatiguing 
day's march without having seen any animals. We 
made a scanty meal off a handful of pemmican, after 
which only half a bag remained. 

The wind abated after midnight, and the surf di- 
minished rapidly, which caused us to be on the alert 
at a very early hour on the 22d, but we had to wait 
until six A.M. for the return of Augustus, who had 
continued out all night on an unsuccessful pursuit of 
deer. It appears that he walked a few miles farther 
along the coast, than the party had done on the 18th, 
and from a sketch he drew on the sand, we were con- 
firmed in our former opinion that the shore inclined 
more to the eastward beyond Point Turnagain. He 
also drew a river of considerable size, that dis- 
charges its waters into Walker's Bay ; on the banks 
of which stream he saw a piece of wood, such as the 
Esquimaux use in producing fire, and other marks so 
fresh that he supposed they had recently visited the 
spot. We therefore left several iron materials for 
them. Our men, cheered by the prospect of returning, 
embarked with the utmost alacrity ; and, paddling 



In the Artie Regions. 241 

with unusual vigor, carried us across Biley's and 
Walker's Bays, a distance of twenty miles before noon, 
when we landed on Slate- Clay Point, as the wind had 
freshened too much to permit us to continue the voy- 
age. The whole party went to hunt, but returned 
without success in the evening, drenched with the 
heavy rain which commenced soon after they had set 
out. Several deer were seen, but could not be ap- 
proached in this naked country ; and as our stock of 
pemmican did not admit of serving out two meals, we 
went dinnerless to bed. 

Soon after our departure to-day, a sealed tin-case, 
sufficiently buoyant to float, was thrown overboard, 
containing a short account of our proceedings, and the 
position of the most conspicuous points. The wind 
blew off the land, the water was smooth, and as the 
sea is in this part more free from islands than in any 
other, there was every probability of its being driven 
off the shore into the current ; which, as I have before 
mentioned, we suppose, from the circumstance of 
Mackenzie's Eiver being the only known stream that 
brings down the wood we have found along the shores, 
to set to the eastward. 

August 23. — A severe frost caused us to pass a 
comfortless night. At 2 P.M. we set sail, and the 
men voluntarily launched out to make a traverse of 
fifteen miles across Melville Sound, before a strong 



242 Thirty Years 



wind and heavy sea. The privation of food, under 
which our voyagers were then laboring, absorbed every 
other terror ; otherwise the most powerful persuasion 
could not have induced them to attempt such a tra- 
verse. It was with the utmost difficulty that the 
canoes were kept from turning their broadsides to the 
waves, though we sometimes steered with all the pad- 
dles. One of them narrowly escaped being overset by 
this accident, happening, in mid-channel, where the 
waves were so high that the mast-head of our canoe 
was often hid from the other, though it was sailing 
within hail. 

The traverse, however, was made ; we were then 
near a high rocky lee shore, on which a heavy surf was 
beating. The wind being on the beam, the canoes 
drifted fast to leeward ; and, on rounding a point, the 
recoil of the sea from the rocks was so great that they 
were with difficulty kept from foundering. We looked 
In vain for a sheltered bay to land in ; but, at length, 
bping unable to weather another point, we were obliged 
to put ashore on the open beach, which, fortunatety, 
was sandy at this spot. The debarkation was effected 
without further injury than the splitting of the head 
of the second canoe, which was easily repaired. 

Our encampment being near to the place where we 
killed -the deer on the 11th, almost the whole party- 
went out to hunt, but they returned in the evening 



In the Arctic Regions. 243 

^without having seen any game. The berries, how- 
ever, were ripe and plentiful, and, with the addition 
of some country tea, furnished a supper. There were 
some showers in the afternoon, and the weather was 
cold, the thermometer being 42°, but the evening and 
night were calm and fine. It may be remarked that 
the musquitoes disappeared when the late gales com- 
menced. 

August 24. — Embarking at three A.M., we stretch- 
ed across the eastern entrance of Bathurst's Inlet, and 
arrived at an inland, which I have named after Colo- 
nel Barry, of Newton Barry. Some deer being seen 
on the beach, the hunters went in pursuit of them, 
and succeeded in killing three females, which enabled 
us to save our last remaining meal of pemmican. 
They saw also some fresh tracks of musk oxen on the 
banks of a small stream, which flowed into a lake in 
the centre of the island. These animals must have 
crossed a channel, at least three miles wide, to reach 
the nearest of these islands. Some specimens of varie- 
gated pebbles and jasper were found here imbedded 
in the amygdaloidal rock. 

Re-embarking at two P.M., and continuing through 
what was supposed to be a channel between two 
islands, we found our passage barred by a gravelly 
isthmus of only ten yards in width ; the canoes and 
cargoes were carried across it, ard we passed into 



244 Thirty Years 



Bathurst's Inlet through another similar channel, 
bounded on both sides by steep rocky hills. The 
wind then changing from S.E. to N.W. brought heavy 
rain, and we encamped at seven P.M., having advan- 
ced eighteen miles. 

August 25. — Starting this morning with a fresh 
breeze in our favor, we soon reached that part of Bar- 
ry's Island where the canoes were detained on the 2d 
and 3d of this month, and contrary to what we then 
experienced, the deer were now plentiful. The hunt- 
ers killed two, and we were relieved from all appre- 
hension of an immediate want of food. One would 
suppose the deer were about to retire to the main 
shore, from their assembling at this time in such num- 
bers on the islands nearest the coast. Those we saw 
were generally females with their young, and all of 
them very lean. 

The wind continued in the same direction until we 
had rounded Point Wollaston, and then changed to a 
quarter which enabled us to steer for Hood's River, 
which we ascended as high as the first rapid, and en- 
camped. Here terminated our voyage on the Arctic 
sea, during which we had gone over six hundred and 
fifty geographical miles. Our Canadian voyagers 
could not restrain their expressions of joy at having 
turned their backs on the sea, and they passed the 
evening talking over their past adventures with much 



In the Arctic Regions. s 245 

humor and no little exaggeration. The consideration 
that the most painful, and certainly the most hazard- 
ous, part of the journey was yet to come, did not de- 
press their spirits at all. It is due to their charac- 
ter to mention that they displayed much courage in 
encountering the dangers of the sea, magnified to them 
by their novelty. 

The shores between Cape Barrow and Cape Flin- 
ders, including the extensive branches of Arctic and 
Melville Sounds, and Bathurst's Inlet, may be com- 
prehended in one great gulf, which I have distinguish- 
ed by the appellation of George IV.'s Coronation 
Gulf, in honor of His Most Gracious Majesty, the lat- 
ter name being added to mark the time of its discov- 
ery. The Archipelago of islands which fringe the 
coast from Copper-Mine Kiver to Point Turnagain, I 
have named in honor of His Koyal Highness the Duke 
of York. 

It may be deserving of notice, that the extremes in 
temperature of the sea water during our voyage were 
53° and 35°, but its general temperature was between 
43° and 48°. Throughout our return from Point 
Turnagain we observed that the sea had risen several 
feet above marks left at our former encampments. 
This may, perhaps, be attributed to the north-west 
gales 

August 26. — Previous tc our departure this mora- 



24G Tliirty Years 



ing, an assortment of iron materials, beads, looking- 
glasses, and other articles were put up in a conspicu- 
ous situation for the Esquimaux, and the English 
CJnion was planted on the loftiest sand-hill, where it 
might be seen by any ships passing in the offing. 
Here also, was deposited in a tin box, a letter contain- 
ing an outline of our proceedings, the latitude and 
longitude of the principal places, and the course we 
intended to pursue towards Slave Lake. 

Embarking at eight A. M. we proceeded up the 
river, which is full of sandy shoals, but sufficiently 
deep for canoes in the channels. It is from one hun- 
dred to two hundred yards wide, and is bounded by 
high and steep banks of clay. We encamped at a 
cascade of eighteen or twenty feet high, which is pro- 
duced by a ridge of rock crossing the river, and the 
nets were set. A mile below this cascade Hood's River 
is joined by a stream half its own size, which I have 
called James' Branch. Bear and deer tracts had been 
numerous on the banks of the river when we were here 
before, but not a single recent one was to be seen at this 
time. Credit, however, killed a small deer at some 
distance inland, which, with the addition of berries, 
furnished a delightful repast this evening. The 
weather was remarkably fine, and the temperature so 
mild, that the musquitoes again made their appear- 
ance, but not in any great numbers. Our distance 
made to-dav was not more than six miles. 



In the Arctic Regions. 247 

The next morning the net furnished us with ten 
white fish and trout. Having made a further deposit 
of iron work for the Esquimaux, we pursued our voy- 
age up the river, but the shoals and rapids in this part 
were so frequent, that we walked along the banks the 
whole day, and the crews labored hard in carrying the 
canoes thus lightened over the shoals or dragging them 
up the rapids, yet our journey in a direct line was only 
about seven miles. In the evening we encamped at 
the lower end of a narrow chasm through which the 
river flows for upwards of a mile. The walls of this 
chasm are upwards of two hundred feet high, quite 
perpendicular, and in some places only a few yards 
apart. The river precipitates itself into it over a rock, 
forming two magnificent and picturesque falls close to 
each other. The upper fall is about sixty feet high, 
and the lower one at least one hundred, but perhaps 
considerably more, for the narrowness of the chasm 
into which it fell prevented us from seeing its bottom, 
and we could merely discern the top of the spray far 
beneath our feet. The lower fall is divided into two, 
by an insulated column of rock which rises about forty 
feet above it. The whole descent of the river at this 
place probably exceeds two hundred and fifty feet. 
The rock is very fine felspathose sandstone. It has a 
smooth surface and a light red color. I have named 
these magnificent cascade " Wilberforce Falls," as a 



248 Thirty Years 



tribute of my respect for that distinguished philan- 
thropist and Christian. Messrs. Back and Hood took 
beautiful sketches of this majestic scene. 

The river being surveyed from the summit of a hill, 
above these falls, appeared so rapid and shallow, that 
it seemed useless to attempt proceeding any farther in 
the large canoes. I therefore determined on con- 
structing out of their materials two smaller ones of 
sufficient size to contain three persons, for the purpose 
of crossing any river that might obstruct our progress. 
This operation was accordingly commenced, and by 
the 31st both the canoes being finished, we prepared 
for our departure on the following day. 

The leather which had been preserved for making 
shoes was equally divided among the men, two pair of 
flannel socks were given to each person, and such ar- 
ticles of warm clothing as remained, were issued to 
those who most required them. They were also fur- 
nished with one of the officers' tents. This being 
done, I communicated to the men my intention of 
proceeding in as direct a course as possible to the part 
of Point Lake, opposite to our spring encampment, 
which was only distant one hundred and forty-nine 
miles in a straight line. They received the communi- 
cation cheerfully, considered the journey to be short, 
and left me, in high spirits, to arrange their own 
packages. The stores, books, &c, which were not 



In the Arctic Regions. 249 

absolutely necessary to be carried, were then put up in 
boxes to be left en cache here, in order that the men's 
burdens might be as light as possible. 

The next morning was warm, and very fine. Every 
one was on the alert at an early hour, being anxious 
to commence the journey. Our luggage consisted of 
ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice chisels, astronomical 
instruments, clothing, blankets, three kettles, and the 
two canoes, which were each carried by one man. The 
officers carried such a portion of their own things as 
their strength would permit ; the weight carried by 
each man was about ninety pounds, and with this we 
advanced at the rate of about a mile an hour, including 
rests. In the evening the hunters killed a lean cow, 
out of a large drove of musk-oxen ; but the men were 
too much laden to carry more than a small portion of 
its flesh. The alluvial soil, which towards the mouth 
of the river spreads into plains, covered with grass 
and willows, was now giving place to a more barren 
and hilly country ; so that we could but just collect 
sufficient brush wood to cook our suppers. The part 
of the river we skirted to-day was shallow, and flowed 
over a bed of sand ; its width about one hundred and 
twenty yards. About midnight our tent was blown 
down by a squall, and we were completely drenched 
with rain before it could be re-pitched. 

In the morning of the 1st of September a fall oX 



250 Thirty Tears 

snow took place ; the canoes beeame a cause of delay, 
by the difficulty of carrying them in a high wind, and 
they sustained much damage from the falls of those 
who had charge of them. The face of the country 
was broken by hills of moderate elevation, but the 
ground was plentifully strewed with small stones, 
which, to men bearing heavy burdens, and whose feet 
were protected only by soft moose skin shoes, occasion- 
ed great pain. At the end of eleven miles we encamp- 
ed, and sent for a musk-ox and a deer, which St. Ger- 
main and Augustus had killed. The day was extreme- 
ly cold, the thermometer varying between 34° and 36°. 
In the afternoon a heavy fall of snow took place, on 
the wind changing from north-west to south-west. 
We found no wood at the encampment, but made a 
fire of moss to cook the supper, and crept under our 
blankets for warmth. At sun rise the thermometer 
was at 31°, and the wind fresh from north-west ; bufc 
the weather became mild in the course of the forenoon, 
and the snow disappeared from the gravel. The after- 
noon was remarkably fine, and the thermometer rose 
to 50°. One of the hunters killed a musk-ox. The 
hills in this part are lower and more round-backed 
than those we passed yesterday, and exhibited but lit- 
tle naked rock ; they were covered with lichens. 

Having ascertained from the summit of the highest 
hill near the tents, that the river continued to preserve 



In the Arctic Begions. 251 

a west course ; and fearing that by pursuing it further 
we might loose much time, and unnecessarily walk 
over a great deal of ground, I determined on quitting 
its banks the next day, and making as directly as we 
could for Point Lake. We accordingly followed the 
river on the 3d, only to the place where the musk-ox 
had been killed last evening, and after the meat was 
procured, crossed the river in our two canoes lashed 
together. We now emerged from the valley of the 
river, and entered a level, but very barren country, 
varied only by small lakes and marshes, the ground 
being covered with small stones. Many old tracks of 
rem-deer were seen in the clayey soil, and some more 
recent ones of the musk-ox. We encamped on the 
borders of Wright's Kiver, which flows to the eastward ; 
the direct distance walked to-day being ten miles and 
three-quarters. The next morning was very fine, and 
as the day advanced, the weather became quite warm. 
We set out at six A.M., and having forded the river, 
walked over a perfectly level country, interspersed with 
small lake's, which communicated with each other, by 
streams running in various directions. £To berry-bear- 
ing plants were found in this part, the surface of the 
earth being thinly covered in the moister places with 
a few grasses, and on the drier spots with lichens. 

Having walked twelve miles and a half, we encamp- 
ed at seven P.M., and distributed our last piece oi 



252 Thirty Years 



pemmican, and a little arrow-root for supper, which 
afforded but a scanty meal. This evening was warm, 
but dark clouds overspread the sky. Our men now 
began to find their burdens very oppressive, and were 
much fatigued by this day's march, but did not com- 
plain. One of them was lame from an inflammation in 
the knee. Heavy rain commenced at midnight, and 
continued without intermission until five in the morn- 
ing, when it was succeeded by snow on the wind 
changing to north-west, which soon increased to a vio- 
lent gale. As we had nothing to eat, and were desti- 
tute of the means of making a fire, we remained in 
our beds all the day ; but the covering of our blankets 
was insufficient to prevent us from feeling the severity 
of the frost, and suffering inconvenience from the drift- 
ing of the snow into our tents. There was no abate- 
ment of the storm the next day ; our tents were com- 
pletely frozen, and the snow had drifted around, them 
to a depth of three feet, and even on the inside there 
was a covering of several inches on our blankets. Our 
suffering from cold, in a comfortless canvass tent in 
such weather, with the temperature at 20°, and with- 
out fire, will easily be imagined ; it was, however, less 
than that which we felt from hunger. 

The morning of the 7th cleared up a little, but tha 
wind was still strong, and the weather extremely cold. 
From the unusual continuance of the storm, we feared 



In the Arctic Regions. 253 

the winter had set in with all its rigor, and that "by 
longer delay we should only be exposed to an accumu- 
lation of difficulties ; we therefore prepared for our 
journey, although we were in a very unfit condition 
for starting, being weak from fasting, and our gar- 
ments stiffened by the frost. We had no means 
of making a fire to thaw them, the moss, at all times 
difficult to kindle, being now covered with ice and 
snow. A considerable time was consumed in packing 
up the frozen tents and bed clothes, the wind blowing 
so strong that no one could keep his hands long out of 
his mittens. 

Just as we were about to commence our march, 1 
was seized with a fainting fit, in consequence of ex- 
haustion and sudden exposure to the wind ; but 
after eating a morsel of portable soup, I recovered, so 
far as to be able to move on. I was unwilling at first 
to take this morsel of soup, which was diminishing 
the small and only remaining meal of the party ; but 
several of the men urged me to it, with much kindness. 
The ground was covered a foot deep with snow, the 
margin of the lakes was incrusted with ice, and the 
swamps over which we had to pass were entirely 
frozen ; but the ice not being sufficiently strong to 
bear us, we frequently plunged knee-deep in water. 
Those who carried the canoes were repeatedly blown 
down by the violence of the wind, and they often fell. 



254 Thirty Years 



from making an insecure step on a slippery stone ; on 
one of these occasions, the largest canoe was so much 
broken as to be rendered utterly unserviceable. This 
was felt as a serious disaster, as the remaining canoe 
having through mistake been made too small, it was 
doubtful whether it would be sufficient to carry us 
across a river. Indeed we had found it necessary in 
crossing Hood's River, to lash the two canoes together. 
As there was some suspicion that Benoit, who carried 
the canoe, had broken it intentionally, he having on a 
former occasion been overheard by some of the men to 
say, that he would do so when he got it in charge, we 
closely examined him on the point ; he roundly denied 
having used the expressions attributed to him, and 
insisted that it was broken by his falling accidentally ; 
and as he brought men to attest the latter fact, who 
saw him tumble, we did not press the matter further. 
I may here remark, that our people had murmured a 
good deal at having to carry two canoes, though they 
were informed of the necessity of taking both, in case 
it should be deemed advisable to divide the party ; 
which it had been thought probable we should be 
obliged to do, if animals proved scarce, in order to 
give the whole the better chance of procuring sub- 
sistence, and also for the purpose of sending forward 
some of the best walkers to search for Indians, and to 
get them to meet us with supplies of provision. The 



In the Arctic Regions. 255 

power of doing this was now at an end. As the acci- 
dent could not be remedied, we turned it to the best 
account, by making a fire of the bark and timbers of 
the broken vessel, and cooked the remainder of our 
portable soup and arrow-root. This was a scanty 
meal after three days' fasting, but it served to allay 
the pangs of hunger, and enabled us to proceed at a 
quicker pace than before. The depth of the snow 
caused us to march in Indian file, that is, in each 
other's steps ; the voyagers taking it in turn to lead 
the party. A distant object was pointed out to this 
man in the direction we wished to take, and Mr. Hood 
followed immediately behind him, to renew the bear- 
ings, and keep him from deviating more than could be 
helped from the mark. It may be here observed, that 
we proceeded in this manner throughout our route 
across the barren grounds. 

In the afternoon we got into a more hilly country, 
where the ground was strewed with large stones. The 
surface of these was covered wi th lichens of the genus 
gyrophora, which the Canadians term tripe de roche. 
A considerable quantity was gathered, and with half 
a partridge each, (which were shot in the course of the 
day,) furnished us with a slender supper, which we 
cooked with a few willows, dug up from beneath the 
deep snow. , We passed a comfortless night in our 
damp clothes, but took the precaution of sleeping 



256 Thirty Years 

upon our socks and shoes to prevent them from freez- 
ing. This plan was afterwards adopted throughout 
the journey. 

At half-past five in the morning we proceeded ; and 
after walking about two miles, came to Cracroft's Eiv- 
er, flowing to the westward, with a very rapid current 
over a rocky channel. We had much difficulty in 
crossing this, the canoe being useless, not only from 
the bottom of the channel being obstructed by large 
stones, but also from its requiring gumming, an opera- 
tion which, owing to the want of wood and the frost, 
we were unable to perform. However, after following 
the course of the river some way, we effected a pass- 
age by means of a range of large rocks that crossed a 
rapid. As the current was strong, and many of the 
rocks were covered with water to the depth of two or 
three feet, the men were exposed to much danger in 
carrying their heavy burdens across, and several of 
them actually slipped into the stream, but were im- 
mediately rescued by the others. Junius went farther 
up the river in search of a better crossing place, and 
did not rejoin us to-day. As several of the party were 
drenched from head to foot, and we were all wet to 
the middle, our clothes became stiff with the frost, and 
we walked with much pain for the remainder of the 
day. The march was continued to a late hour, being 
anxious to rejoin the hunters who had gone before, but 



In the Arctic Regions. 257 

we were obliged to encamp at the end of ten miles and 
a quarter, without seeing them. Our only meal to- 
day consisted of a partridge each, (which the hunters 
shot,) mixed with tripe de roche. This repast, 
although scanty for men with appetites such as our 
daily fatigue created, proved a cheerful one, and was 
received with thankfulness. Most of the men had to 
sleep in the open air, in consequence of the absence 
of Credit, who carried their tent ; but we fortunately 
found an unusual quantity of roots to make a fire, 
which prevented their suffering much from the cold, 
though the thermometer was at 17°. 

We started at six on the 9 th, and at the end of two 
miles regained our hunters, who were halting on the 
borders of a lake amidst a clump of stunted willows. 
This lake stretched to the westward as far as we could 
see, and its waters were discharged by a rapid stream 
one hundred and fifty yards wide. Being entirely ig- 
norant where we might be led by pursuing the course 
of the lake, and dreading the idea of going a mile un- 
necessarily out of the way, we determined on crossing 
the river if possible ; and the canoe was gummed for 
the purpose, the willows furnishing us with fire. But 
we had to await the return of Junius before we could 
make the traverse. In the mean time we gathered a 
little tripe de roche, and breakfasted upon it and a 
few partridges that were killed in the morning. St. 



258 Thirty Years 



Germain and Adam were sent upon some recent tracks 
of deer. Junius arrived in the afternoon, and inform- 
ed us that he had seen a large herd of musk-oxen on 
the banks of Cracroft's River, and had wounded one 
of them, but it had escaped. He brought about four 
pounds of meat, the remains of a deer that had been 
devoured by the wolves. The poor fellow was much 
fatigued, having walked throughout the night, but as 
the weather was particularly favorable for our crossing 
the river, we could not allow him to rest. After he 
had taken some refreshment we proceeded to the river. 
The canoe being put into the water was found extreme- 
ly ticklish, but it was managed with much dexterity 
by St. Germain, Adam, and Peltier, who ferried over 
one passenger at a time, causing him to lie flat in its 
bottom, by no means a pleasant position, owing to its 
leakiness, but there was no alternative. The transport 
of the whole party was effected by five o'clock, and we 
walked about two miles further, and encamped, hav- 
ing come five miles and three-quarters on a south-west 
course. Two young alpine hares were shot by St. 
Germain, which, with the small piece of meat brought 
in by Junius, furnished the supper of the whole party. 
There was no tripe de roche here. The country had 
now become decidedly hilly, and was covered with 
snow. The lake preserved its western direction, as 
far as I could see from the summit of the highest 



In the Arctic Regions. 259 



mountain near the encampment. We subsequently 
learned from the Copper Indians, that the part at 
which we had crossed the river was the Congecatha 
wha chaga of Hearne, of which I had little idea at the 
time, not only from the difference of latitude, but also 
from its being so much farther east of the mouth of 
the Copper- Mine Kiver, than his track is laid down. 
He only making one degree and three-quarters differ- 
ence of longitude, and we upwards of four. Had I 
been aware of the fact, several days' harassing march, 
and a disastrous accident would have been prevented 
by keeping on the western side of the lake, instead of 
crossing the river. We were informed also, that this 
river is the Anatessy, or Eiver of Strangers, and is sup- 
posed to fall into Bathurst's Inlet ; but although the 
Indians have visited its mouth, their description was 
not sufficient to identify it with any of the rivers whose 
mouths we had seen. It probably falls in that part 
of the coast which was hid from our view by Goul- 
barn's or Elliot's Islands. 

September 10. — We had a cold north wind, and the 
atmosphere was foggy. The thermometer 18° at five 
A.M. In the course of our march this morning, we 
passed many small lakes ; and the ground, becoming 
higher and more hilly as we receded from the river, 
was covered to a much greater depth with snow. 
This rendered walking not only extremely laborious, 



26C Thirty Years 



but also hazardous in the highest degree ; for the 
sides of the hills, as is usual throughout the barren 
grounds, abounding in accumulations of u*ige angular 
stones, it often happened that the men fell into the 
interstices with their loads on their backs, being de- 
ceived by the smooth appearance of the drifted snow. 
If any one had broken a limb here, his fate would 
have been melancholy indeed ; we could neither have 
remained with him, nor carried him on. We halted 
at ten to gather tripe de roche } but it was so frozen, 
that we were quite benumbed with cold before a suffi- 
ciency could be collected even for a scanty meal. On 
proceeding, our men were somewhat cheered, by ob- 
serving on the sandy summit of a hill, from whence 
the snow had been blown, the summer track of a man ; 
and afterwards by seeing several deer tracks on the 
snow. About noon the weather cleared up a little, 
and, to our great joy, we saw a herd of musk-oxen 
grazing in a valley below us. The party instantly 
halted, and the best hunters were sent out ; they ap- 
proached the animals with the utmost caution, no less 
than two hours being consumed before they got within 
gun-shot. In the meantime we beheld their proceed 
ings with extreme anxiety, and many secret prayers 
were, doubtless, offered up for their success. At 
length they opened their fire, and we had the satisfac- 
tion of seeing one of the largest cows fall ; another 



In the Arctic Regions. 261 

was wounded, but escaped. This success infused 
spirit into our starving party. To skin and cut up 
the animal was the work of a few minutes. The con- 
tents of its stomach were devoured upon the spot, and 
the raw intestines, which were next attacked, were 
pronounced by the most delicate .amongst us to be 
excellent. A few willows, whose tops were seen 
peeping through the snow in the bottom of the valley, 
were quickly grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper 
cooked, and devoured with avidity. This was the 
sixth day since we had had a good meal. The tripe de 
roche, even where we got enough, only serving to allay 
the pangs of hunger for a short time. After supper, 
two of the hunters went in pursuit of the herd, but 
could not get near them. 

We were detained all the next day by a strong 
southerly wind, and were much incommoded in the 
tents by the drift snow. The temperature was 20°. 
The average for the last ten days about 24 5°. We 
restricted ourselves to one meal to-day as we were at 
rest, and there was only meat remaining sufficient for 
trte next day. 

The gale had not diminished on the 12th, and, as we 
were fearful of its continuance for some time, we de- 
termined on going forward ; our. only doubt regarded 
the preservation of the canoe, but the men promised 
to pay particular attention to it, and the most careful 



262 Thirty Tears 



persons were appointed to take it in charge. The 
snow was two feet deep, and the ground much broken, 
which rendered the march extremely painful. The 
whole party complained more of faintness and weak- 
ness than they had ever done before ; their strength 
Seemed to have been impaired by the recent supply of 
animal food. In the afternoon the wind abated, and 
the snow ceased ; cheered with the change, we pro- 
ceeded forward at a quicker pace, and encamped at 
six P.M., having come eleven miles. Our supper con- 
sumed the last of our meat. 

We set out on the 13th, in thick hazy weather, 
and, after an hour's march, had the extreme mortifica- 
tion to find ourselves on the borders of a large lake, 
which w r e subsequently learned from the Indians was 
named Contwoy-to, or Rum Lake ; neither of its ex- 
tremities could be seen. As the portion which lay to 
the east seemed the widest, we coasted along to the 
westward portion in search of a crossing-place This 
lake being bounded by steep and lofty hills, our march 
was very fatiguing. Those sides which were exposed 
to the sun were free from snow, and we found upon 
them some excellent berries. We encamped at six P. 
M., having come only six miles and a half. Credit 
was then missing, and he did not return during the 
night. We supped off a single partridge and some 
tripe de roche ; this unpalatable weed was now qui to 



In the Artie Regions. 263 

nauseous to the whole party, and in several it produced 
bowel complaints. Mr. Hood was the greatest suffer- 
er from this cause. This evening we were extremely 
distressed at discovering that our improvident com- 
panions, since we left Hood's River, had thrown away 
three of the fishing nets, and burnt the floats ; they 
knew we had brought them to procure subsistence for 
the party, when the animals should fail, and we could 
scarcely believe the fact of their having wilfully de- 
prived themselves of this resource, especially when we 
considered that most of them had passed the greater 
part of their servitude in situations where the nets 
alone had supplied them with food. Being thus de- 
prived of our principal resource, that of fishing, and 
the men evidently getting weaker every day, it became 
necessary to lighten their burdens of every thing 
except ammunition, clothing, and the instruments 
that were required to find our way. I, therefore, 
issued directions to deposit at this encampment the 
dipping needle, azimuth compass, magnet, a large 
thermometer, and a few books we had carried, having 
torn out of these such parts as we should require to 
work the observations for latitude and longitude. I 
also promised, as an excitement to the efforts in hunt- 
ing, my gun to St. Germain, and an ample compensa- 
tion to Adam, or any of the other men who should kill 
any animals. Mr. Hood, on this occasion, lent his 



264 Thirty Years 



gun to Michel, the Iroquois, who was very eage^- in 
the chase, and often successful. 

September 14. — This morning the officers being as- 
sembled round a small fire, Perrault presented each 
of us with a small piece of meat which he had saved 
from his allowance. It was received with great thank- 
fulness, and such an act of self-denial and kindness, 
being totally unexpected in a Canadian voyager, filled 
our eyes with tears. In directing our course to a river 
issuing from the lake, we met Credit, who communi- 
cated the joyful intelligence of his having killed two 
deer in the morning. We instantly halted, and hav- 
ing shared the deer that was nearest .to us, prepared 
breakfast. After which, the other deer was sent for, 
and we went down to the river, which was about three 
hundred yards wide, and flowed with great velocity 
through a broken rocky channel. Having searched 
for a part where the current was most smooth, the 
canoe was placed in the water at the head of a rapid, 
and St. Germain, Solomon, Belanger, and I, embarked 
in order to cross. We went from the shore very well, 
but in mid-channel the canoe became difficult to man- 
age under our burden, as the breeze was fresh. The 
current drove us to the edge of the rapid, when Be- 
langer unfortunately applied his paddle to avert the 
apparent danger of being forced down it, and lost his 
balance. The canoe was overset in consequence in 



In the Arctic Regions. 265 

the middle of the rapid. We fortunately kept hold 
of it, until we touched a rock where the water did not 
reach higher than our waists ; here we kept our foot- 
ing, notwithstanding the strength of the current, un- 
til the water was emptied out of the canoe. Belanger 
then held the canoe steady whilst St. G-ermain placed 
me in it, and afterwards embarked himself in a very 
dexterous manner. It was impossible, however, to 
embark Belanger, as the canoe would have been hur- 
ried down the rapid, the moment he should have 
raised his foot from the rock on which he stood. Wc 
were, therefore, compelled to leave him in his perilous 
situation. We had not gone twenty yards before the 
canoe, striking on a sudden rock, went down. The 
place being shallow, we were again enabled to empty 
it, and the third attempt brought us to the shore. In 
the mean time Belanger was suffering extremely, im- 
mersed to his middle in the centre of a rapid, the tem- 
perature of which was very little above the freezing 
point, and the upper part of his body covered with 
wet clothes, exposed in a temperature not much above 
zero, to a strong breeze. He called piteously for re- 
lief, and St. Germain on his return endeavored to em- 
bark him, but in vain. The canoe was hurried down 
the rapid, and when he landed he was rendered by the 
cold incapable of further exertion, and Adam attempt- 
ed to embark Belanger, but found it impossible. An 

12 



%66 Thirty Years 



attempt was next made to carry out to him a line, 
made of the slings of the men's loads. This also 
failed, the current acting so strongly upon it, as to 
prevent the canoe from steering, and it was finally 
broken and carried down the stream. At length, 
when Belanger's strength seemed almost exhausted, 
the canoe reached him with a small cord belonging to 
one of the nets, and he was dragged perfectly sense- 
less through the rapid. By the direction of Dr. Bich- 
ardson, he was instantly stripped, and being rolled 
up in blankets, two men undressed themselves and 
went to bed with him ; but it was some hours before 
he recovered his warmth and sensations. As soon as 
Belanger was placed in his bed, the officers immedia- 
tely sent over my blankets and a person to make a 
fire. Augustus brought the canoe over, and in return- 
ing he was obliged to descend both the rapids, be- 
fore he could get across the stream ; which hazardous 
service he performed with the greatest coolness and 
judgment. It is impossible to describe my sensations 
as I witnessed the various unsuccessful attempts to 
relieve Belanger. The distance prevented my seeing 
distinctly what was going on, and I continued pacing 
up and down upon the rock on which I landed, regard- 
less of V'l-e coldness of my drenched and stiffening gar- 
ments. The canoe, in every attempt to reach him, 
was Jim ied down the rapid, and was lost to the view 



In the Arctic Begions. 2G7 

amongst the rocky islets, with a rapidity that seemed 
to threaten certain destruction ; once, indeed, I fan- 
cied that I saw it overwhelmed in the waves. Such 
an event would have "been fatal to the whole party, 
Separated as I was from my companions, without gun, 
ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making a fire, 
and in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily 
sealed. My companions too, driven to the necessity 
of coasting the lake, must have sunk under the fatigue 
of rounding its innumerable arms and bays, which, as 
we have learned from the Indians, are very extensive. 
By the goodness of Providence, however, we were 
spared at that time, and some of us have been permit- 
ted to offer up our thanksgivings, in a civilized land, 
for the signal deliverances we then and afterwards ex- 
perienced. 

By this accident I had the misfortune to loose my 
port- folio, containing my journal from Fort Enterprize, 
together with all the astronomical and meteorological 
observations made during the descent of the Copper- 
Mine Kiver, and along the sea coast, (except those for 
the dip and, variation.) I was in the habit of carry- 
ing it strapped across my shoulders, but had taken it 
off on entering the canoe, to reduce the upper weight. 
The results of most of the observations for latitude 
and longitude had been registered in the sketch books, 
so that we preserved the requisites for the construe- 



268 Thirty Years 



tion of the chart. The meteorological observations, 
not having been copied, were lost. My companions, 
Dr. Richardson, Mr. Back, and Mr. Hood, had been 
so careful in noting every occurrence in their journals, 
that the loss of mine could fortunately be well sup- 
plied. These friends immediately offered me their 
documents, and every assistance in drawing up another 
narrative, of which kindness I availed myself at the 
earliest opportunity afterwards. 

September 15. — The rest of the party were brought 
across this morning, and we were delighted to find 
Belanger so much recovered as to be able to proceed, 
but we could not set out until noon, as the men had 
to prepare substitutes for the slings which were lost 
yesterday. Soon after leaving the encampment we 
discerned a herd of deer, and after a long chase a fine 
male was killed by Perrault ; several others were 
wounded, but they escaped. After this we passed 
round the north end of a branch of the lake, and as- 
cended the Willingham Mountains, keeping near the 
border of the lake. These hills were steep, craggy, 
and covered with snow. We encamped at seven, and 
enjoyed a substantial meal. The party were in good 
spirits this evening at the recollection of having cross- 
ed the rapid, and being in possession of piovision for 
the next day. Besides we had taken the precaution 
of bringing away the skin of the deer to eat when 



In the Arctic Regions. 269 

the meat should fail. The temperature at six P.M. 
was 30°. 

We started at seven next morning and marched un- 
til ten, when the appearance of a few willows, peeping 
through the snow, induced us to halt and breakfast. 
Ee-commencing the journey at noon, we passed over a 
more rugged country, where the hills were separated 
by deep ravines, whose steep sides were equally diffi- 
cult to descend and to ascend. 

The party was quite fatigued, and we encamped, 
having come ten miles and three-quarters. We ob- 
served many summer deer roads, and some recent 
tracks. Some marks that had been put up by the 
Indians were also noticed. We have since learned 
that this is a regular deer pass, and on that account, 
annually frequented by the Copper Indians. The 
lake is called by them Contwoy-to, or Rum Lake, in 
consequence of Mr. Hearne having here given the In- 
dians who accompanied him some of that liquor. 
They do not get fish here 

We walked next day over a more level country, but 
it was strewed with large stones. These galled our 
feet a good deal ; we contrived, however, to wade 
through the snow at a tolerably quick pace until five 
P.M., having made twelve miles and a half. We had 
made to-day our proper course, south by east, which 
we could not venture upon doing befure, for fear of 



270 Thirty Years 



falling again upon some branch of the Oontwoy-to. 
JSome deer were seen in the morning, but the hunters 
failed of killing any, and in the afternoon we fell into 
the track of a large herd, which had passed the day 
before, but did not overtake them. In consequence 
of this want of success we had no breakfast, and but a 
scanty supper ; but we allayed the pangs of hunger, 
by eating pieces of singed hide. A little tripe de roche 
was also obtained. These would have satisfied us in 
ordinary times, but we were now almost exhausted by 
slender fare and travel, and our appetites had become 
ravenous. Ws looked, however, with humble confi- 
dence to the great Author and Giver of all good, for 
a continuance of the support which had hitherto been 
always supplied to us at our greatest need. The 
thermometer varied to-day between 25° and 28°. 
The wind blew fresh from the south. 

On the 18th the atmosphere was hazy, but the day 
was more pleasant for walking than usual. The coun- 
try was level and gravelly, and the snow very deep. 
We went for a short time along a deeply beaten road, 
made by the reindeer, which turned suddenly off to 
the south-west, which was a direction so wide of our 
course that we could not venture upon following it. 
All the small lakes were frozen, and we marched across 
those which lay in our track. We supped off the 
tripe de roche which had been gathered during our 



In tlie Arctic Regions. 271 

halts in the course of the inarch. Thermometer at six 
P.M. 32°. 

Showers of snow fell without intermission through 
the night, but they ceased in the morning, and we set 
out at the usual hour. The men were very faint from 
hunger, and marched with difficulty, having to oppose 
a fresh breeze, and to wade through the snow two feet 
deep. We gained, however, ten miles by fuur o'clock, 
and then encamped. The canoe was unfortunately 
broken by the fall. of the person who had it in charge. 
No tripe de roche v/as seen to-day, but in clearing the 
snow to pitch the tents we found a quantity of Ice- 
land moss, which was boiled for supper. This weed, 
not having been soaked, proved so bitter, that few of 
the party could eat more than a few spoonfuls of it. 

Our blankets did not suffice this evening to keep us 
in tolerable warmth ; the slightest breeze seeming to 
pierce through our debilitated frames. The reader 
will, probably, be desirous to know how we passed our 
time in such a comfortless situation : the first opera- 
tion after encamping was to thaw our frozen shoes, if 
a sufficient fire could be made, and dry ones were put 
on ; each person then wrote his notes of the daily oc- 
currences, and evening prayers were read ; as soon as 
supper was prepared it was eaten, generally in the 
dark, and we went to bed, and kept up a cheerful con- 
versation until our blankets were thawed by the heat 



272 Thirty Years 



of our bodies, and we had gathered sufficient warmth 
to enable us to fall asleep. On many nights we had 
not even the luxury of going to bed in dry clothes, for 
when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes, we 
durst not venture to pull them off, lest they should 
freeze so hard as to be unfit to put on in the morning, 
and, therefore, inconvenient to carry. 

On the 20th we got into a hilly country, and the 
marching became much more laborious ; even the 
stoutest experienced great difficulty in climbing the 
craggy eminences. Mr. Hood was particularly weak, 
and was obliged to Relinquish his station of second in 
the line, which Dr. Kichardson now took, to direct the 
leading man in keeping the appointed course. I was 
ulso unable to keep pace with the men, who put forth 
*heir utmost speed, encouraged by the hope, which 
our reckoning had led us to form, of seeing Point Lake 
in the evening, but we were obliged to encamp with- 
out gaining a view of it. We had not seen either 
deer or their tracks through the day, and this circum- 
stance, joined to the disappointment of not discovering 
the lake, rendered our voyagers very desponding, and 
the meagre supper of tripe de roche was little calcu- 
lated to elevate their spirits. They now threatened 
to throw avvay their bundles, and quit us, which rash 
act they would probably have done, if they had known 
what track to pursue. 



In the Arctic He g ions. 273 

Sept. 21. — We set out at seven this morning in 
dark foggy weather, and changed our course two 
points to the westward. The party were very feeble, 
and the men much dispirited ; we made slow pro- 
gress, having to march over a hilly and very rugged 
country. 

Just before noon the sun beamed through the haze 
for the first time for six days, and we obtained an ob- 
servation in latitude 65° 7' 06" N., which was six 
miles to the southward of that part of Point Lake to 
which our course was directed. By this , observation 
we discovered that we had kept to the eastwaro^of the 
proper course, which may be attributed partly to the 
difficulty of preserving a straight line through an un- 
known country, unassisted by celestial observations, 
and in such thick weather, that our view was often 
limited to a few hundred yards ; but chiefly to our 
total ignorance of the amount of the variation of the 
compass. 

We altered the course immediately to west-south- 
west, and fired guns to apprize the hunters who were 
out of 'our view, and ignorant of our having done so. 
After walking about two miles we put up to collect 
the stragglers. Two partridges were killed, and these 
with some tripe de rocJie, furnished our supper. Not- 
withstanding a full explanation was given to the men 

of the reasons for altering the course, and they were 

12® 



^74 Thirty Years 



assured that the observation had enabled us to disco- 
ver our exact distance from Fort Enterprize, they 
could not divest themselves of the idea of our having 
lost our way, and a gloom was spread over every coun- 
tenance. At this encampment Dr. Kichardson was 
obliged to deposit his specimens of plants and minerals, 
collected on the sea-coast, being unable to carry them 
any further. The way made to-day was five miles 
and a quarter. 

Sept. 22. — After walking about two miles this morn- 
ing, we came upon the borders of a large lake, whose 
extremities could not be discerned in consequence of 
the density of the atmosphere ; but as its shores seem- 
ed to approach nearer to each other to the southward 
than to the northward, we determined on tracing; it 
in that direction. We were grieved at finding the 
lake expand very much beyond the contracted part we 
had first seen, and incline now to the eastward of 
south. As it was considered more than probable, from 
the direction and size of the body of water we were 
now tracing, that it was a branch of Point Lake ; and 
as, in any case, we knew that by passing round its 
south end, we must shortly come to the Copper-Mine 
River, our course was continued in that direction. 
The appearance of some dwarf pines and willows, lar- 
ger than usual, induced us to suppose the river was 
near. We encamped early, having come eight miles. 



In the Arctic Regions. 2Y<) 

Our supper consisted of tripe de roclie and half a par- 
tridge each. 

Our progress next day was extremely slow, from the 
difficulty of managing the canoe in passing over the 
hills, as the breeze was fresh. Peltier, who had it in 
charge, having received several severe falls, became 
impatient, and insisted on leaving his burden, as it 
had already been much injured by the accidents of 
this day ; and no arguments we could use were suffi- 
cient to prevail on him to continue carrying it. Vail- 
lant was, therefore, directed to take it, and we proceed- 
ed forward. Having found he got on very well, and 
was walking even faster than Mr. Hood could,. in his 
present debilitated state, I pushed forward to stop the 
rest of the party, who had got out of our sight during 
the delay which the discussion about the canoe had 
occasioned. I accidentally passed the body of the men, 
and followed the tracks of two persons, who had sepa- 
rated from the rest, until two P.M., when, not seeing 
any person, I retraced my steps, and on my way met 
Dr. Eichardson, who had also missed the party whilst 
he was employed gathering tripe de roclie, and we 
went back together in search of them. We found 
they had halted among some willows, where they had 
picked up some pieces of skin, and a few bones of deer 
that had been devoured by the wolves last spring. 
They had rendered the bones friable by burning, and 



276 Thirty Years 

eaten them, as well as the skin ; and several of thera 
had added their old shoes to the repast. Peltier and 
Vaillant were with them, having left the canoe, which, 
they said, was so completely broken by another fall, 
as to be rendered incapable of repair, and entirely use- 
less. The anguish this intelligence occasioned may be 
conceived, but it is beyond my power to describe it. 
Impressed, however, with the necessity of taking it 
forward, even in the state these men represented it to 
be, we urgently desired them to fetch it ; but they de- 
clined going, and the strength of the officers was inade- 
quate to the task. To their infatuated obstinacy on 
this Occasion, a great portion of the melancholy circum- 
stances which attended our subsequent progress may, 
perhaps, be attributed. The men now seemed to have 
lost all hope of being preserved ; and all the argu- 
ments we could use failed in stimulating them to the 
least exertion. After consuming the remains of the 
bones and horns of the deer we resumed our march, 
and, in the evening, reached a contracted part of the 
lake, which perceiving to be shallow, we forded and 
encamped on the opposite side. Heavy rain began 
soon afterwards, and continued all the night. On the 
following morning the rain had so wasted the snow, 
that the tracks of Mr. Back and his companions, who 
had gone before with the hunters, were traced with 
difficulty ; and the frequent showers during the day 



In the Arctic Regions. 277 

almost obliterated them. The men became furious at 
the apprehension of being deserted by the hunters, and 
some of the strongest throwing down their bundles, 
prepared to set out after them, intending to leave the 
more weak to follow as they could. The entreaties 
and threats of the officers, however, prevented their 
executing this mad scheme ; but not before Solomon 
Belanger was despatched with orders for Mr. Back to 
halt until we should join him. Soon afterwards a thick 
fog came on, but we continued our march and overtook 
Mr. Back, who had been detained in consequence of 
his companions having followed some recent tracks of 
deer. After halting an hour, during which we refresh* 
ed ourselves with eating our old shoes and a few scraps 
of leather, we set forward in the hope of ascertaining 
whether an adjoining piece of water was the Copper- 
Mine River or not, but were soon compelled to return 
and encamp, for fear of a separation of the party, as 
we could not see each other at ten yards' distance. 
The fog diminishing towards the evening, Augustus 
was sent to examine the water, but having lost his 
way he did not reach the tents before miflnight, when 
he brought the information of its being a lake. We 
supped upon tripe de roche, and enjoyed a comforta- 
ble fire, having found some pines, seven or eight feet 
high, in a valley near the encampment. 

The bounty of Providence was most seasonably 
manifested to us next morning, in our killing fivQ 



278 Thirty Years 



Bmall deer out of a herd, which came in sight as we 
were on the point of starting. This unexpected sup- 
ply reanimated the drooping spirits of our men, and 
filled every heart with gratitude. 

The voyagers instantly petitioned for a day's rest, 
which we were most reluctant to grant, being aware 
of the importance of every moment at this critical 
period of our journey. But they so earnestly and 
strongly pleaded their recent sufferings, and their con- 
viction, that the quiet enjoyment of two substantial 
meals, after eight days' famine, would enable them to 
proceed next day more vigorously, that we could not 
resist their entreaties. The flesh,, the skins, and even 
the contents of the stomachs of the deer were equally 
distributed among the party by Mr. Hood, who had 
volunteered, on the departure of Mr. Wentzel, to per- 
form the duty of issuing the provision. This invidious 
task he had all along performed with great impartiali- 
ty, but seldom without producing some grumbling 
amongst the Canadians ; and on the present occasion, 
the hunters were displeased that the heads, and some 
other parts, h&d not been added to their portions. It 
is proper to remark, that Mr. Hood always took the 
smallest portion for his own mess, but this weighed 
little with these men, as long as their own appetites 
remained unsatisfied. We all suffered much inconve- 
nience from eating animal food after our long absti- 
nence, but particularly those men who indulged them- 



In the Arctic Regions. 279 



selves beyond moderation. We learned, in the even- 
ing, that the Canadians, with their usual thoughtless- 
ness, had consumed above a third of their portions of 
meat. 

We set out early on the 26th, and, after walking 
about three miles along the lake, came to the river, 
which we at once recognized, from its size, to be the 
Copper-Mine. It flowed to the northward, and after 
winding about five miles, terminated in Point Lake. 
Its current was swift, and there were two rapids in 
this part of its course, but in a canoe we could have 
crossed with ease and safety. These rapids, as well as 
every other part of the river, were carefully examined 
in search of a ford ; but finding none, the expedients 
occurred, of attempting to cross on a raft made of the 
willows which were growing there, or in a vessel 
framed with willows, and covered with the canvass of 
the tents ; but both these schemes were abandoned, 
through the obstinacy of the interpreters and the 
most experienced voyagers, who declared that they 
would prove inadequate to the conveyance of the 
party, and that much time would be lost in the 
attempt. The men, in fact, did not believe that this 
was the Copper-Mine Eiver, and so little confidence 
had they in our reckoning, and so much had they be- 
wildered themselves on the march, that some of them 
asserted it was Hood's River, and others that it was 
the Bethe-tessy, (a river which rises from a lake to th« 



280 Thirty Years 

northward of Rum Lake, and holds a course to the 
sea parallel to the Copper-Mine.) In short, their 
despondency had returned, and they all despaired of 
seeing Fort Enterprize again. However, the steady 
assurances of the officers, that we were actually on the 
banks of the Copper-Mine River, and that the dis- 
tance to Fort Enterprize did not exceed forty miles, 
made some impression upon them, which was increas- 
ed upon our rinding some bear-berry plants, which is 
reported by the Indians not to grow to the eastward 
of that river. Then they deplored their folly and im- 
patience in breaking the canoe, being all of opiuion, 
that had it not been so completely demolished on the 
23d, it might have been repaired sufficiently to take 
the party over. We again closely interrogated Pel- 
tier and Yaillant as to its state, with the intention of 
sending for it ; but they persisted in the declaration, 
that it was in a totally unserviceable condition 
St. Germain being again called upon, to endeavor t(? 
construct a canoe frame from willows, stated that he 
was unable to make one sufficiently large. It became 
necessary, therefore, to search for pines of sufficient 
size to form a raft ; and being aware that such trees 
grow on the borders of Point Lake, we considered it 
best to trace its shores in search of them ; we, there- 
fore, resumed our march, carefully looking, but in 
vain, for a fordable part, and encamped at the east 
end of Point Lake. 



In the Arctic Regions. 281 



CHAPTER XI. 

As there was little danger of our losing the path 
of our hunters whilst we coasted the shores of this 
lake, I determined on again sending Mr. Back forward, 
with the interpreters, to hunt. I had in view, in this 
Arrangement, the further object of enabling Mr. Back 
to get across the lake with two of these men, to con- 
vey the earliest possible account of our situation to 
the Indians. Accordingly I instructed him to halt at 
the first pines he should come to, and then prepare a 
raft ; and if his hunters had killed animals, so that the 
party could be supported whilst we were making our 
raft, he was to cross immediately with St. Germain and 
Beauparlant, and send the Indians to us as quickly as 
possible with supplies of meat. 

We had this evening the pain of discovering that 
two of our men had stolen part of the officers' provi- 
sion, which had been allotted to us with strict impar- 
tiality. This conduct was the more reprehensible, as 
it was plain that we were suffering, even in a greater 



^82 Thirty Years 

degree than themselves, from the effects of famine, 
owing to our being of a less robust habit, and less ac- 
customed to privations. We had no means of punish- 
ing this crime, but by the threat that they should for- 
feit their wages, which had now ceased to operate. 

Mr. Back and his companions set out at six in the 
morning, and we started at seven. As the snow had 
entirely disappeared, and there were no means of dis- 
tinguishing the footsteps of stragglers, I gave strict 
orders, previously to our setting out, for all the party 
to keep together : and especially I desired the two 
Esquimaux not to leave us, they having often strayed 
in search of the remains of animals. Our people, how- 
ever, through despondency, had become careless and 
disobedient, and had ceased to dread punishment, or 
hope for reward. Much time was lost in halting and 
firing guns to collect them, but the labor of walking 
was so much lightened by the disappearance of the 
snow, that we advanced seven or eight miles along the 
lake before noon, exclusive of the loss of distance in 
rounding its numerous bays. At length we came to 
an arm, running away to the north-east, and apparent- 
ly connected with the lake which we had coasted on 
the 22d, 23d, and 24th of the month. 

The idea of again rounding such an extensive piece 
of water and of traveling over so barren a country was 
dreadful, and we feared that other arms, equally large, 



In the Arctic Regions. 283 

might obstruct our path, and that the strength of the 
party would entirely fail, long before we could reach 
the only part where we were certain of finding wood, 
distant in a direct line twenty-five miles. While we 
halted to consider of this subject, and to collect the 
party, the carcass of a deer was discovered in the cleft 
of a rock into which it had fallen in the spring. It 
was putrid, but it was little less acceptable to us on 
that account, in our present circumstances ; and a 
fire being kindled, a large portion of it was devoured 
on the spot, affording us an unexpected breakfast, for 
in order to husband our small remaining portion of 
meat, we had agreed to make only one scanty meal a 
day. The men, cheered by this unlooked-for supply, 
became sanguine in the hope of being able to cross the 
stream on a raft of willows, although they had before 
declared such a project impracticable, and they un- 
animously entreated us to return back to the rapid, 
a request which accorded with our own opinion, and 
was therefore acceded to. Credit and Junius, how- 
ever, were missing, and it was also necessary to send 
notice of our intention to Mr. Back and his party. 
Augustus being promised a reward, undertook the task, 
and we agreed to wait for him at the rapid. It was 
supposed he could not fail meeting with the two 
stragglers on his way to or from Mr. Back, as it was 
likely they would keep on the borders of the lake. He 



284 Thirty Tears 

accordingly set out after Mr. Back, whilst we returned 
about a mile towards the rapid, and encamped in a 
deep valley amongst some large willows. We supped 
on the remains of the putrid deer, and the men having 
gone to the spot where it was found, scraped together 
the contents of its intestines which were scattered on 
the rock, and added them to their meal. We also 
enjoyed the luxury to-day of eating a large quantity 
of excellent blueberries and cranberries, (vaccinium 
idiginosum and v. Vitus idcea,) which were laid bare 
by the melting of the snow, but nothing could allay 
our inordinate appetites. 

In the night we heard the report of Credit's gun in 
answer to our signal muskets, and he rejoined us in 
the morning, but we got no intelligence of Junius. 
We set out about an hour after daybreak, and en- 
camped at two P. M. between the rapids, where the 
river was about one hundred and thirty yards wide, 
being its narrowest part. 

Eight deer were seen by Michel and Credit, who 
loitered behind the rest of the party, but they could 
not approach them. A great many shots were fired 
by those in the rear at partridges, but they missed, or 
at least did not choose to add what they killed to the 
common stock. We subsequently learned that the 
hunters often secreted the partridges they shot, and 
eat them unknown to the officers. Some tripe de 



In the Artie Regions. 285 



roche was collected, which we boiled for supper, with 
the moiety of the remainder of our deer's meat. The 
men commenced cutting the willows for the con- 
struction of the raft. As an excitement to exertion, 
I promised a reward of three hundred livres to the 
first person who should convey a line across the river, 
by which the raft could be managed in transporting 
the party. 

September 29. — Strong south-east winds with fog 
in the morning, more moderate in the evening. Tem- 
perature of the rapid 38°. The men began at an early 
hour to bind the willows in fagots for the construction 
of the raft, and it was finished by seven ; but as the 
willows were green, it proved to be very little buoyant, 
and was unable to support more than one man at a 
time. Even on this, however, we hoped the whole 
party might be transported, by hauling it from one 
side to the other, provided a line could be carried to 
the other bank. Several attempts were made by Be- 
langer and Benoit, the strongest men of the party, to 
convey the raft across the stream, but they failed for 
want of oars. A pole constructed by tying the tent 
poles together, was too short to reach the bottom at 
a short distance from the shore ; and a paddle which 
had been carried from the sea coast by Dr. Kichardson, 
did not possess sufficient power to move the raft in 
opposition to a strong breeze, which blew from the 



286 Thirty Years 



opposite shore. All the men suffered extremely from 
the coldness of the water, in which they were neces- 
sarily immersed up to the waists, in their endeavors to 
aid Belanger and Benoit ; and having witnessed re- 
peated failures, they began to consider the scheme as 
hopeless. At this time Dr. Richardson, prompted by 
a desire of relieving his suffering companions, proposed 
to swim across the stream with a line, and to haul the 
raft over. He launched into the stream with the line 
round his middle, but when he had got a short dis- 
tance from the bank, his arms became benumbed with 
cold, and he lost the power of moving them ; still he 
persevered, and turning on his back, had nearly gained 
the opposite bank, when his legs also became power- 
less, and to our infinite alarm we beheld him sink. 
We instantly hauled upon the line and he came again 
on the surface, and was gradually drawn ashore in an 
almost lifeless state. Being rolled up in blankets, he 
was placed before a good fire of willows, and fortu- 
nately was just able to speak sufficiently to give some 
slight directions respecting the manner of treating 
him. He recovered strength gradually, and by the 
blessing of God was enabled in the course of a few 
hours to converse, and by the evening was sufficiently 
recovered to remove into the tent. We then regretted 
to learn, that the skin of his whole left side was 
deprived of feeling in consequence of exposure to too 



In the Arctic Regions. 287 

great heat. He did not perfectly recover the sensa- 
tion of that side until the following summer. I can- 
not describe what every one felt at beholding the 
skeleton which the Doctor's debilitated frame exhibi- 
ted. When he stripped, the Canadians simultaneous- 
ly exclaimed, " Ah que nous sommes maigres." I 
shall best explain his state and that of the party, by 
the following extract from his journal : " It may be 
worthy of remark, that I would have had little hesita- 
tion in any former period of my life, of plunging into 
water even below 38° Fahrenheit ; but at this time 
I was reduced almost to skin and bone, and like the 
rest of the party, suffered from degrees of cold that 
would have been disregarded whilst in health and 
vigor. During the whole of our march we experienced 
that no quantity of clothing could keep us warm 
whilst we fasted, but on those occasions on which we 
were enabled to go to bed with full stomachs, we 
passed the night in a warm and comfortable manner." 

In following the detail of our friend's narrow escape, 
I have omitted to mention, that when he was about to 
step into the water, he put his foot on a dagger, which 
cut him to the bone ; but this misfortune could not 
stop him from attempting the execution of his gene- 
ous undertaking. 

In the evening Augustus came in. He had walked 
a day and a half beyond the place from whence we 



Thirty Tears 



turned back, but had neither seen Junius nor Mr. 
Back. Of the former he had seen no traces, but he 
had followed the tracks of Mr. Back's party for a con- 
siderable distance, until the hardness of th3 ground 
rendered them imperceptible. Junius was well 
equipped with ammunition, blankets, knives, a kettle, 
and other necessaries ; and it was the opinion of Au- 
gustus, that when he found he could not rejoin the 
party, he would endeavor to gain the woods on the 
west end of Point Lake, and follow the river until he 
fell in with the Esquimaux, who frequent its mouth. 
The Indians too, with whom we have since conversed 
upon this subject, are confident that he would be able 
to subsist himself during the winter. Credit, on his 
hunting excursion to-day, found a cap, which our 
people recognized to belong to one of the hunters who 
had left us in the spring. This circumstance produced 
the conviction of our being on the banks of the Cop- 
per-Mine Kiver, which all the assertions of the officers 
had hitherto failed to do with some of the party ; and 
it had the happy effect of reviving their spirits con- 
siderably. We consumed the last of our deer's meat 
this evening at supper. 

Kext morning the men went out in search of dry 
willows, and collected eight large fagots, with which 
they formed a more buoyant raft than the former, but 
the wind being still adverse and strong, they delayed 



In the Arctic Regions. 289 

attempting to cross until a more favorable opportunity, 
Pleased, however, with the appearance of this raft, 
they collected some tripe de roclie, and made a cheer- 
ful supper. Dr. Richardson was gaining strength, but 
his leg was much swelled and very painful. An ob- 
servation for latitude placed the encampment in 
65° 00" 00" K, the longitude being 112° 20' 00" W., 
deduced from the last observation. 

On the morning of the 1st of October, the wind was 
strong, and the weather as unfavorable as before for 
crossing on the raft. We were rejoiced to see Mr. 
Back and his party in the afternoon. They had tra- 
ced the lake about fifteen miles farther than we did, 
and found it undoubtedly connected, as we had sup- 
posed, with the lake we fell upon on the 22d of Sep- 
tember, and dreading, as we had done, the idea of 
coasting its barren shores, they returned to make an 
attempt at crossing here. St. Germain now proposed 
to make a canoe of the fragments of painted canvass, 
in which we wrapped up our bedding. This scheme 
appearing practicable, a party was sent to our encamp- 
ment of the 24th and 25th last, to collect pitch amongst 
the small pines that grew there, to pay over the seams 
of the canoe. 

In the afternoon we had a heavy fall of snow, which 

continued all the night. A small quantity of tripe de 

rochc was gathered ; and Credit, who had been hunt- 

13 



290 Thirty Years 



ing, brought in the antlers and back bone of a deer 
which had been killed in the summer. The wolves 
and birds of prey had picked them clean, but there 
still remained a quantity of the spinal marrow which 
they had not been able to extract. This, although 
putrid, was esteemed a valuable prize, and the spine 
being divided into portions, was distributed equally. 
After eating the marrow, which was so acrid as to ex- 
crociate the lips, we rendered the bones friable by burn- 
ing, and ate them also. 

On the following morning the ground was covered 
with snow to the depth of a foot and a half, and the 
weather was very stormy. These circumstances ren- 
dered the men again extremely despondent ; a settled 
gloom hung over their countenances, and they refused 
to pick tripe de roche, choosing rather to go entirely 
without eating, than to make any exertion. The 
party which went for gum returned early in the morn- 
ing without having found any ; but St. Germain said 
he could still make the canoe with the willows cover- 
ed with the canvass, and removed with Adam to a 
clump of willows for that purpose. Mr. Back accom- 
panied them to stimulate his exertion, as we feared 
the lowness of his spirits would cause him to be slow 
in his operations. Augustus went to fish at the rapid, 
but a large trout having carried away his bait, we had 
nothing to replace it. 



In the Arctic Regions. 291 

The snow storm continued all the night, and during 
the forenoon of the 3d. Having persuaded the people 
to gather some (ripe de roche, I partook of a meal 
with them ; and afterwards set out with the inten- 
tion of going to St. Germain to hasten his operations, 
but though he was only three-quarters of a mile dis- 
tant, I spent three hours in a vain attempt to reach 
him, my strength being unequal to the labor of wad- 
ing through the deep snow ; and I returned quite ex- 
hausted, and much shaken by the numerous falls I 
had got. My associates were all in the same debilita- 
ted state, and poor Hood was reduced to a perfect 
shadow, from the severe bowel complaints which the 
tripe de roche never failed to give him. Back was so 
feeble as to req aire the support of a stick in walking ; 
and Dr. Richardson had lameness superadded to weak- 
ness. The voyagers were somewhat stronger than 
ourselves, but more indisposed to exertion, on account 
of their despondency. The sensation of hunger was 
no longer felt by any of us, yet we were scarcely able 
to converse upon any other subject than the pleasures 
of eating. We were much indebted to Hepburn at 
this crisis. The officers were unable from weakness 
to gather tripe de roche themselves, and Samandre, 
who had acted as our cook on the journey from the 
coast, sharing in the despair of the rest of the Cana- 
dians, refused to make the slightest exertions. Hep- 



292 . Thirty Tears 



burn, on the contrary, animated by a firm reliance on 
the beneficence of the Supreme Being, tempered with 
resignation to his will, was indefatigable in his exer- 
tions to serve us, and daily collected all the tripe de 
roche that was used in the officers* mess. Mr. Hood 
could not partake of this miserable fare, and a par- 
tridge which had been reserved for him was, I lament 
to say, this day stolen by one of the men. 

Oct. 4. — The canoe being finished, it was brought 
to the encampment, and the whole party being assem- 
bled in anxious expectation on the beach, St. Ger- 
main embarked, arid amidst our prayers for his success, 
succeeded in reachiug the opposite shore. The canoe 
was then drawn back again, and another person trans- 
ported, and in this manner, by drawing it backwards 
and forwards, they were all conveyed over without any 
serious accident. By these frequent traverses the ca- 
noe was materially injured ; and latterly it filled each 
time with water before reaching the shore, so that all 
our garments and bedding were wet, and there was 
not a sufficiency of willows upon the side on which 
we now were, to make a fire to dry them. 

That no time might be lost in procuring relief, I 
immediately despatched Mr. Back with St. Germain, 
Solomon Belanger, and Beauparlant, to search for the 
Indians, directing him to go to Fort Enterprize, where 
we expected they would be, or where, at least, a noto 



In the Arctic Region? 203 



from Mr. Wentzel would be found to direct us in out 
search for them. If St. Germain should kill any ani- 
mals on his way, a portion of the meat was to be 
put up securely for us, and conspicuous marks placed 
over it. 

It is impossible to imagine a more gratifying change 
than was produced in our voyagers after we were all 
safely landed on the southern banks of the river. 
Their spirits immediately revived, each of them shook 
the officers cordially by the hand, and declared they 
now considered the worst of their difficulties over, as 
they did not doubt of reaching Fort Enterprize in a 
few days, even in their feeble condition,. We had in- 
deed every reason to be grateful, and our joy would 
have been complete were it not mingled with sincere 
regret at the separation of our poor Esquimaux, the 
faithful Junius. 

The want of tripe de roche caused us to go supper- 
less to bed. Showers of snow fell frequently during 
the night. The breeze was light next morning, the 
weather cold and clear. We were all on foot by day- 
break, but from the frozen state of our tents and bed 
clothes, it was long before the bundles could be made, 
and as usual the men lingered over a small fire they 
had kindled, so that it was eight o'clock before we 
started. Our advance from the depth of the snow was 
slow, and about noon coming to a spot where there 



294 Thirty Year 8 

was some tripe de rocJie, we stopped to collect it, and 
breakfasted. Mr. Hood, who was now very feeble, and 
Dr. Richardson, who attached himself to him, walked 
together at a gentle pace in the rear of the party. I 
kept with the foremost men, to cause them to halt oc- 
casionally, until the stragglers came up. Resuming 
our march after breakfast, we followed the track of 
Mr. Back's party, and encamped early, as all of us 
were much fatigued, particularly Credit, who having 
to-day carried the men's tent, it being his turn to do 
so, was so exhausted, that when he reached the en- 
campment he was unable to stand. The tripe de roche 
disagreed with this man and with Vaillant, in conse- 
quence of which they were the first whose strength 
totally failed. We had a small quantity of this weed 
in the evening, and the rest of our supper was made 
up of scraps of roasted leather. The distance walked 
to-day was six miles. As Credit was very weak in 
the morning, his load was reduced to little more than 
his personal luggage, consisting of his blanket, shoes, 
and gun. Previous to setting out, the whole party 
ate the remains of their old shoes, and whatever 
scraps of leather they had, to strengthen their stomachs 
for the fatigue of the day's journey. We left the en- 
campment at nine, and pursued our route over a range 
of bleak hills. The wind having increased to a strong 
gale in the course of the morning, became piercingly 



In the Arctic Regions. 295 

cold, and the drift rendered it difficult for those in the 
rear to follow the track over the heights, whilst in the 
valleys, where it was sufficiently marked, from the 
depth of the snow, the labor of walking was propor- 
tionably great. Those in advance made as usual fre- 
quent halts, yet being unable from the severity of the 
weather to remain long still, they were obliged to move 
on before the rear could come up, and the party, of 
course, straggled very much. 

About noon Samandre coming up, informed us that 
Credit and Vaillant could advance no further. Some 
willows being discovered in a valley near to us, I pro- 
posed to halt the party there whilst Dr. Kichardson 
went back to visit them. I hoped too, that when the 
sufferers received the information of a fire being kin- 
dled at so short a distance, they would be cheertd, and 
use their utmost efforts to reach it, but this proved a 
vain hope. The Doctor found Valliant about a mile 
and a half in the rear, much exhausted with cold and 
fatigue. Having encouraged him to advance to the 
fire, after repeated solicitations he made the attempt, 
but fell down amongst the deep snow at every step. 
Leaving him in this situation, the Doctor went about 
half a mile farther back, to the spot where Credit was 
said to have halted, and the track being nearly oblite- 
rated by the snow drift, it became unsafe for him to 
go further. Keturning he passed Vaillant, who hav- 



296 Thirty Years 



ing moved only a few yards in his absence, had fallen 
down, was unable to rise, and could scarcely answer 
his questions. Being unable to afford him any effec- 
tual assistance, he hastened on to inform us of his situ- 
ation. When J. B. Belanger had heard the melan • 
choly account, he went immediately to aid Vaillant, 
and bring up his burden. Respecting Credit, we were 
informed by Samandre, that he had stopped a short 
distance behind Vaillant, but that his intention was 
to return to the encampment of the preceding even- 
ing. 

When Belanger came back with Vaillant's load, he 
informed us that he had found him lying on his back, 
benumbed with cold, and incapable of being roused. 
The stoutest men of the party were now earnestly en- 
treated to bring him to the fire, but they declared 
themselves unequal to the task ; and, on the contrary, 
urged me to allow them to throw down their loads, 
and proceed to FortEnterprize with the utmost speed. 
A compliance with their desire would have caused the 
loss of the whole party, for the men were totally ig- 
norant of the course to be taken, and none of the offi- 
cers, who could have directed the march, were suffi- 
ciently strong to keep up at the pace they would then 
walk ; besides, even supposing them to have found 
their way, the strongest men would certainly have 
deserted the weak. Something, however, was abso- 



In the Arctic Regions. 297 

lutely necessary to be done, to relieve them as much 
as possible from their burdens, and the officers con- 
sulted on the subject. Mr. Hood and Dr. Kichardson 
proposed to remain behind, with a single attendant, 
at the first place where sufficient wood and tripe de 
roclie should be found for ten days' consumption ; and 
that I should proceed as expeditiously as possible with 
the men to the house, and thence send them imme- 
diate relief. They strongly urged that this arrange- 
ment would contribute to the safety of the rest of the 
party, by relieving them from the burden of a tent, 
and several other articles ; and that they might afford 
aid to Credit, if he should unexpectedly come up. I 
was distressed beyond description at the thought of 
leaving them in such a dangerous situation, and for a 
long time combated their proposal ; but they strenu- 
ously urged, that this step afforded the only chance of 
safety for the party, and I reluctantly acceded to it. 
The ammunition, of which we had a small barrel, 
was also to be left with them, and it was hoped that 
this deposit would be a strong inducement for the 
Indians to venture across the barren grounds to their 
aid. We communicated this resolution to the men, 
who were cheered at the slightest prospect of allevia- 
tion of their present miseries, and they promised with 
great appearance of earnestness to return to those offi- 
cers, upon the first supply of food. 

'13* 



298 Thirty Years 



The party then moved on ; Vaillant's blanket and 
other necessaries were left in the track, at the request 
of the Canadians, without any hope, however, of his 
being able to reach them. After marching until dusk 
without seeing a favorable place for encamping, night 
compelled us to take shelter under the lee of a hill, 
amongst some willows, with which, after many at- 
tempts, we at length made a fire. It was not suffi- 
cient, however, to warm the whole party, much less to 
thaw our shoes ; and the weather not permitting the 
gathering of tripe de roche, we had nothing to cook. 

The painful retrospection of the melancholy events 
of the day banished sleep, and we shuddered as we con- 
templated the dreadful effects of this bitterly cold night 
on our two companions, if still living. Some faint 
hopes were entertained of Credit's surviving the storm, 
as he was provided with a good blanket, and had 
leather to eat. 

The weather was mild next morning. We left the 
encampment at nine, and a little before noon came to 
a pretty extensive thicket of small willows, near which 
there appeared a supply of tripe de roche on the face 
of the rocks. At this place Dr. Eichardson and Mr. 
Hood determined to remain, with John Hepburn, who 
volunteered to stop with them. The tent was securely 
pitched, a few willows collected, and the ammunition 
a nd all other articles were deposited, except each man's 



In the Arctic Regions, 299 

clothing, one tent, a sufficiency of ammunition for the 
journey, and the officer's journals. I had only one 
Maimer., which was carried for me, and two pair of 
shoes. The offer was now made for any of the men, 
who felt themselves too weak to proceed, to remain 
with the officers, but none of them accepted it. Mi- 
chel alone felt some inclination to do so. After we 
had united in thanksgiving and prayers to Almighty 
God, I separated from my companions, deeply afflicted 
that a train of melancholy circumstances should have 
demanded of me the severe trial of parting from friends 
in such a condition, who had become endeared to me 
by their constant kindness, and co-operation, and a 
participation of numerous sufferings. This trial I 
could not have been induced to undergo, but for the 
reasons they had so strongly urged the day before, to 
which my own judgment assented, and for the san- 
guine hope I felt of either finding a supply of pro- 
vision at Fort Enterprize, or meeting the Indians in 
the immediate vicinity of that place, according to my 
arrangements with Mr. Wentzel and Akaitcho. Pre- 
viously to our starting, Peltier and Benoit repeated 
their promises, to return to them with provision, ii 
any should be found at the house, or to guide the 
Indians to them, if any were met. 

Greatly as Mr. Hood was exhausted, and, indeed, 
incapable as he must have proved, of encountering the 



300 Thirty Years 



fatigue of our next day's journey, so that I felt his 
resolution to be prudent, I was sensible that his deter- 
mination to remain, was mainly prompted by the dis- 
interested and generous wish to remove impediments 
to the progress of the rest of the party. Dr. Richard- 
son and Hepburn, who were both in a state of strength 
to keep pace with the men, beside this motive which 
they shared with him, were influenced in their resolu- 
tion to remain ; the former by the desire which had 
distinguished his character, throughout the expedition, 
of devoting himself to the succor of the weak, and 
the latter by the zealous attachment he had ever 
shewn towards his officers. 

We set out without waiting to take any of the 
tripe de roche, and walked at a tolerable pace, and in 
an hour arrived at a fine group of pines, about a mile 
and a quarter from the tent. We sincerely regretted 
not having seen these before we had separated from 
our companions, as they would have been better sup- 
plied with fuel here, and there appeared to be more 
tripe de roche than where we had left them. 

Descending afterwards into a more level country, 
we found the snow very deep, and the labor of wading 
through it so fatigued the whole party, that we were 
compelled to encamp, after a march of four miles and 
a half. Belanger and Michel were left far behind, 
and when they arrived at the encampment appeared 



In the Arctic Regions . 301 

quite exhausted. The former, bursting into tears, 
declared his inability to proceed with the party, and 
begged me to let him go back next morning to the 
tent, and shortly afterwards Michel made the same 
request. I was in hopes they might recover a little 
strength by the night's rest, and therefore deferred 
giving any permission until the morning. The sud- 
den failure in the strength of these men cast a gloom 
over the rest, which I tried in vain to remove, by re- 
peated ass-urances that the distance to Fort Enterprize 
was short, and that we should, in all probability, reach 
it in four days. Not being able to find any tripe de 
roclie, we drank an infusion of the Labrador tea plant, 
{ledum palustre,) and ate a few morsels of burnt 
leather for supper. We were unable to raise the tent, 
and found its weight too great to carry it on ; we, 
therefore, cut it up, and took a part of the canvass for 
a cover. The night was bitterly cold, and though we 
lay as close to each other as possible, having no sheh 
ter, we could not keep ourselves sufficiently warm to 
sleep. A strong gale came on after midnight, which 
increased the severity of the weather. In the morning 
Belanger and Michel renewed their request to be per- 
mitted to go back to the tent, assuring me they were 
still weaker than on the preceding evening, and less 
capable of going forward ; and they urged, that the 
stopping at a place where there was a supply of tripe 



302 Thirty Years 



de roche was their only chance of preserving life ; un- 
der these circumstances, I could not do otherwise than 
yield to their desire. I wrote a note to Dr. Kichard- 
son and Mr. Hood, informing them of the pines we 
had passed, and recommending their removing thither. 
Having found that Mrchel was carrying a considerable 
quantity of ammunition, I desired him to divide it 
among my party, leaving him only ten balls and a lit- 
tle shot, to kill any animals he might meet on his 
way to the tent. This man was very particular in his 
inquiries respecting the direction of the house, and 
the course we meant to pursue ; he also said, that if 
he should be able, he would go and search for Vail- 
lant and Credit ; and he requested my permission to 
take Vaillant's blanket, if he should find it, to which 
I agreed, and mentioned it in my notes to the officers. 
Scarcely were these arrangements finished, before 
Perrault and Fontano were seized with a fit of dizzi- 
ness, and betrayed other symptoms of extreme debility. 
Some tea was quickly prepared for them, and after 
drinking it, and eating a few morsels of burnt leather, 
they recovered, and expressed their desire to go for- 
ward ; but the other men, alarmed at what they had 
just witnessed, became doubtful of their own strength, 
and, giving way to absolute dejection, declared their 
own inability to move. I now earnestly pressed upon 
them the necessity of continuing our journey, as the 



In the Arctic Regions. 303 

only means of saving their own lives, as well as those 
of our friends at the tent ; and, after much entreaty, 
got them to set out at ten A.M. : Belanger and Michel 
were left at the encampment, and proposed to start 
shortly afterwards. By the time we had gone about 
two hundred yards, Perrault be'came again dizzy, and 
desired us to halt, which we did, until he, recovering, 
proposed to march on. Ten minutes more had hardly 
elapsed before he again desired us to stop, and, burst- 
ing into tears, declared he was totally exhausted, and 
unable to accompany us further. As the encampment 
was not more than a quarter of a mile distant, we pro- 
posed that he should return to it, and rejoin Belanger 
and Michel, whom we knew to be still there, from 
perceiving the smoke of a fresh fire ; and. because they 
had not made any preparation for starting when we 
left them. He readily acquiesced in the proposition, 
and having taken a friendly leave of each of us, and 
enjoined us to make all the haste we could in sending 
relief, he turned back, keeping his gun and ammuni- 
tion. We watched him until he was near to the fire 5 
and then proceeded. During these detentions, Augus- 
tus becoming impatient of the delay, had walked on, 
and we lost sight of him. The labor we experienced 
in wading through the deep snow induced us to cross 
a moderate sized lake, which lay in our track, but we 
found this operation far more harassing. As the sur- 



304 Thirty Years 



face of the ice was perfectly smooth, we slipt at almost 
every step, and were frequently blown down by the 
wind with such force as to shake our whole frames. 
Poor Fontano was completely exhausted by the la- 
bor of making this traverse, and we made a halt until 
his strength was recruited, by which time the party 
was benumbed with cold. Proceeding again, he got 
on tolerably well for a little time, but being again 
seized with faintness and dizziness, he fell often, and 
at length exclaimed that he could go no further. We 
immediately stopped, and endeavored to encourage 
him to persevere, until we should find some willows, 
to encamp ; he insisted, however, that he could not 
march any longer through this deep snow ; and said, 
that if he should even reach our encampment this 
evening, he must be left there, provided tripe de roche 
could not be procured to recruit his strength. The 
poor man was overwhelmed with grief, and seemed de- 
sirous to ^emain at that spot. We were about two 
miles from the place where the other men had been 
left, and as the track to it was beaten, we proposed to 
him to return thither, as we thought it probable he 
would find the men still there : at any rate he would 
be able to get fuel to keep him warm during the night ; 
and, on the next day, he could follow their track to 
the officers' tent ; and, should the path be covered by 
the snow, the pines we had passed yesterday would 
guide him, as they were yet in view. 



In the Arctic Regions. 305 

I cannot describe my anguish on the occasion of 
separating from another companion under circumstan- 
ces so distressing. There was, however, no alternative. 
The extreme debility of the rest of the party, put the 
carrying him quite out of the question, as he himself 
admitted ; and it was evident that the frequent delays 
he must occasion if he accompanied us, and did not 
gain strength, must have endangered the lives of the 
whole. By returning he had the prospect of getting 
to the tent where tripe cle roche could be obtained, 
which agreed with him better than with any other of 
the party, and which he was always very assiduous in 
gathering. After some hesitation he determined on 
returning, and set out, having bid each of us farewell 
in the tenderest manner. We watched him with in- 
expressible anxiety for some time, and were rejoiced to 
find, though he had got on slowly, that he kept on his 
legs better than before. Antonio Fontano was an 
Italian, and had served many years in De Meuron's 
regiment. He had spoken to me that very morning, 
and after his first attack of dizziness, about his father ; 
and had begged, that should he survive, I would take 
him with me to England, and put him in the way of 
reaching home. 

The party was now reduced to five persons, Adam, 
Peltier, Benoit, Samandrfc, and myself. Continuing 
the journey, we came, after an hour's walk, to some 



306 Tldriy Years 



willows, and encamped under the shelter of a rock, 
having walked in the whole four miles and a half. 
We made an attempt to gather some tripe de roche, 
but could not, owing to the severity of the weather. 
Our supper, therefore, consisted of tea and a few mor- 
sels of leather. 

Augustus did not make his appearance, but we felt 
no alarm at his absence, supposing he would go to the 
tent if he missed our track. Having fire, we procured 
a little sleep. Next morning the breeze was light and 
the weather mild, which enabled us to collect some 
tripe de roche, and to enjoy the only meal we had for 
four days. We derived great benefit from it, and 
walked with considerably more ease than yesterday. 
Without the strength it supplied, we should certainly 
have been unable to oppose the strong breeze we had 
in the afternoon. After walking about five miles, we 
came upon the borders of Marten Lake, and were re- 
joiced to find it frozen, so that we could continue oui 
course straight for Fort Enterprize. We encamped at 
the first rapid in Winter Kiver amidst willows and al- 
ders ; but these were so frozen, and the snow fell so thick, 
that the men had great difficulty in making a fire. 
This proving insufficient to warm us, or even thaw 
our shoes, and having no food to prepare, we crept 
under our blankets. The arrival in a well known part 
raised the spirits of the men to a high pitch, and we 



In the Arctic Regions. 307 

kept up a cheerful eonveisation until sleep overpowered 
us. The night was very stormy, and the morning 
scarcely less so ; but, being desirous to reach the 
house to-day, we commenced our journey very early. 
We were gratified by the sight of a large herd of rein- 
deer on the side of the hill near the track, but our 
only hunter, Adam, was too feeble to pursue them. 
Our shoes and garments were stiffened by the frost, 
and we walked in great pain until we arrived at some 
stunted pines, at which we halted, made a good fire, 
and procured the refreshment of tea. The weather 
becoming fine in the afternoon, we continued our 
Journey, passed the Dog-rib Kock, and encamped 
among a clump of pines of considerable growth, about 
a mile further on. Here we enjoyed the comfort of a 
large fire for the first time since our departure from 
the sea coast ; but this gratification was purchased at 
the expense of many severe falls that we had in cross- 
ing a stony valley, to get to these pines. There was 
no tripe de rocJie, and we drank tea and ate some of 
our shoes for supper. Next morning, after taking the 
usual repast of tea, we proceeded to the house. Mus- 
ing on what we were likely to find there, our minds 
were agitated between hope and fear, and, contrary to 
the custom we had kept up, of supporting our spirits 
by conversation, we went silently forward. 

At length we reached Fort Enterprize, and to ouf 



308 Thirty Tears 



infinite disappointment and grief found it a perfectly 
desolate habitation. There was no deposit of pro- 
vision, no trace of the Indians, no letter from Mr. 
Wentzel to point out where the Indians might be 
found. It would be impossible for me to describe our 
sensations after entering this miserable abode, and 
discovering how we had been neglected ; the whole 
party shed tears, not so much for our own fate, as for 
that of our friends in the rear, whose lives depended 
entirely on our sending immediate relief from this 
place. 

I found a note, however, from Mr. Back, stating 
that he had reached the house two days ago, and was 
going in search of the Indians, at a part where St. 
Germain deemed it probable they might be found. If 
lie was unsuccessful, he purposed walking to Fort 
Providence, and sending succor from thence. But he 
doubted whether he or his party could perform the 
journey to that place in their present debilitated state. 
It was evident that any supply that could be sent 
from Fort Providence would be long in reaching us, 
and could not be sufficient to enable us to afford any 
assistance to our companions behind, and that the only 
relief for them must be procured from the Indians. I 
resolved, therefore, on going also in search of them ; 
but my companions were absolutely incapable of pro- 
ceeding, and I thought, by halting two or three days. 



In the Artie Regions. 30f> 

they might gather a little strength, whilst the delay 
would afford us the chance of learning whether Mr. 
Back had seen the Indians. 

We now looked round for the means of subsistence, 
and were gratified to find several deer skins, which 
had been thrown away during our former residence. 
The bones were gathered from the heap of ashes, these 
with the skins, and the addition of tripe de roche, we 
considered would support us tolerably well for a time, 
As to the house, the parchment being torn from the 
windows, the apartment we selected for our abode 
was exposed to all the rigor of the season. We en- 
deavored to exclude the wind as much as possible, by 
placing loose boards against the apertures. The tem- 
perature was now between 15° and 20° below zero. 
We procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the 
other rooms, and water for the purpose of cooking by 
melting the snow. Whilst we were seated round the 
fire, singing the deer skin for supper, we were rejoiced 
by the unexpected entrance of Augustus. He had 
followed quite a different course from ours, and the 
circumstance of his having found his way through a 
part of the country he had never been in before, must 
be considered a remarkable proof of sagacity. The 
unusual earliness of this winter became manifest to us 
from the state of things at this spot. Last year at 
the same season, and still later, there had been very 



310 'Thirty Years 



little snow on the ground, and we were surrounded by- 
vast herds of reindeer. Now there were but few 
recent tracks of these animals, and the snow was up- 
wards of two feet deep. Winter Eiver was then open, 
now it was frozen two feet thick. 

When I arose the following morning, my body and 
limbs were so swollen that I was unable to walk more 
than a few yards. Adam was in a still worse condi- 
tion, being absolutely incapable oi rising without as- 
sistance. My other companions fortunately experienced 
this inconvenience in a less degree, and went to col- 
lect bones, and some tripe de roc7ie, which supplied 
us with two meals. The bones were quite acrid, and 
the soup extracted from them excoriated the mouth 
if taken alone, but it was somewhat milder when 
boiled with tripe de roche, and we even thought the 
mixture palatable, with the addition of salt, of which 
a cask had been fortunately left here in the spring. 
Augustus to-day set two fishing-lines below the rapid. 
On his way thither he saw two deer, but had not 
strength to follow them. 

On the 13th the wind blew violently from south- 
east, and the snow drifted so much, that the party 
was confined to the house. In the afternoon of the 
following day Belanger arrived with a note from Mr. 
Back, stating that he had seen no trace of the Indians, 
and desiring further instructions as to the course he 



In th& Arctic Regions. 311 

should pursue. Belanger's situation, however, re- 
quired our first care, as he came in almost speechless, 
and covered with ice, having fallen into a rapid, and 
for the third time since we left the coast, narrowly es- 
caped drowning. He did not recover sufficiently to 
answer our questions, until we had rubbed him for 
some time, changed his dress, and given him some 
warm soup. My companions nursed him with the 
greatest kindness, and the desire of restoring him to 
health seemed to absorb all regard for their own situ- 
ation. I witnessed with peculiar pleasure this con- 
duct, so different from that which they had recently 
pursued, when every tender feeling was suspended by 
the desire of self-preservation. They now no longer 
betrayed impatience or despondency, but were com- 
posed and cheerful, and had entirely given up the 
practice of swearing, to which the Canadian voyagers 
are so lamentably addicted. Our conversation natu- 
rally turned upon the prospect of getting relief, and 
upon the means which were best adapted for obtain- 
ing it. The absence of all traces of Indians on Win- 
ter Kiver, convinced me that they were at this time 
on the way to Fort Providence, and that by proceed- 
ing towards that post we should overtake them, as 
they move slowly when they have their families with 
them. This route also offered us the prospect of kill- 
ing deer, in the vicinity of Reindeer Lake, in which 



312 Thirty Years 



neighborhood, our men in their journeys to and fro 
last winter, had always found them abundant. Upon 
these grounds I determined on taking the route to 
Fort Providence as soon as possible, and wrote to Mr. 
Back desiring him to join me at Keindeer Lake, and 
detailing the occurrences since we had parted, that 
our friends might receive relief in case of any accident 
happening to me. 

Belanger did not recover sufficient strength to leave 
us before the 18th. His answers as to the exact part 
of Kound-Kock Lake in which he had left Mr. Back, 
were very unsatisfactory ; and we could only collect that 
it was a considerable distance, and he was still going 
on with the intention of halting at the place where 
Akaitcho was encamped last summer, about thirty 
miles off. This distance appeared so great, that I 
told Belanger it was very unsafe for him to attempt it 
alone, and that he would be several days in accom- 
plishing it. He stated, however, that as the track 
was beaten, he should experience little fatigue, and 
seemed so confident, that I suffered him to depart 
with a supply of singed hide. Next day I received 
information which explained why he was so unwilling 
to acquaint us with the situation of Mr. Back's party. 
Tie dreaded that I should resolve upon joining it, 
when our numbers should be so great as to consume 
at once everything St. Germain might kill, if by acci- 



In the Arctic Regions. 313 

dent he should be successful in hunting. He even 
endeavored to entice away our other hunter Adam, 
and proposed to him to carry off the only kettle we 
had > and without which we could not have subsisted 
two days. Adam's inability to move, however, pre 
eluded him from agreeing to the proposal, but he 
could assign no reason for not acquainting me with it, 
previous to Belanger' s departure. I was at first in- 
clined to consider the whole matter as a fiction of 
Adam't-s, but he persisted in his story without waver- 
ing ; and Belanger, when we met again, confessed 
that every part of it ^vas true. It is painful to have 
to record a fact so derogatory to human nature, but I 
have deemed it proper to mention it, to shew the dif- 
ficulties we had to contend with, and the effect which 
distress had in warping the feelings and understanding 
of the most diligent and obedient of our party ; for 
such Belanger had been always esteemed up to this 
time. 

In making arrangements for our departure, Adam 
disclosed to me, for the first time, that he was affect- 
ed with cedematous swellings in some parts of the 
body, to such a degree as to preclude the slightest at- 
tempt at marching ; and upon my expressing my sur- 
prise at his having hitherto concealed from me the ex- 
tent of his malady, among other explanations the de- 
tails of the preceding story came out. It now became 



314 Thirty Tears 



necessary to abandon the original intention of proceed- 
ing with the whole party towards Fort Providence, 
and Peltier and Samandre having volunteered to re- 
main with Adam, I determined on setting out with 
Benoit and Augustus, intending to send them relief 
by the first party of Indians we should meet. My 
clothes were so much torn, as to be quite inadequate 
to screen me from the wind, and Peltier and Samandre 
fearing that I might suffer on the journey in conse- 
quence, kindly exchanged with me parts of their dress, 
desiring me to send them skins in return by the In- 
dians. Having patched up three pair of snow-shoes, 
and singed a considerable quantity of skin for the jour- 
ney, we started on the morning of the 20th. Previous 
to my departure, I packed up the journals of the offi- 
cers, the charts, and some other documents, together 
with a letter addressed to the Under Secretary of 
State, detailing the occurrences of the Expedition up 
to this period, which package was given in charge to 
Peltier and Samandre, with direction that it should be 
brought away by the Indians who might come to them. 
I also instructed them to forward succor immediately 
on its arrival to our companions in the rear, which 
they solemnly promised to do, and I left a letter for 
my friends, Bichardson and Hood, to be sent at the 
same time. I thought it necessary to admonish Pel- 
tier, Samandre, and Adam, to eat two meals every day, 



In the Arctic Beg ions. 315 

in order to keep up their strength, which they pro- 
mised me they would do. No language that I can 
use could adequately describe the parting scene. I 
shall only say there was far more calmness and resig- 
nation to the Divine will evinced by every one than 
could have been expected, We were all cheered by 
the hope that the Indians would be found by the one 
party, and relief sent to the other. Thoss who re- 
mained entreated us to make all the haste we could, 
and expressed their hope of seeing the Indians in ten 
or twelve days. 

At first starting we were so feeble as scarcely to be 
able to move forwards, and the descent of the bank 
of the river through the deep snow was a severe labor. 
When we came upon the ice, where the snow was less 
deep, we got on better, but after walking six hours 
we had only gained four miles, and were then com- 
pelled by fatigue to encamp on the borders of Kound- 
Rock Lake. Augustus tried for fish here, but without 
success, so that our fare was skin and tea. Compo- 
sing ourselves to rest, we lay close to each other for 
warmth. We found the night bitterly cold, and the 
wind pierced through our famished frames. 

The next morning was mild and pleasant for travel- 
ing, and we set out after breakfast. We had not, 
however, gone many yards before I had the misfortur e 
to break my snow-shoes, by falling between two rocks 



316 Thirty Years 



This accident prevented me from keeping pace with 
Benoit and Augustus, and in the attempt I became 
quite exhausted. Being convinced that their being 
delayed on my account might prove of fatal conse- 
quence to the rest, I resolved on returning to the 
house, and letting them proceed alone in search of the 
Indians. I therefore halted them only whilst I wrote 
a note to Mr. Back, stating the reason of my return, 
and requesting he would send meat from Reindeer 
Lake by these men, if St. Germain should kill any 
animals there. If Benoit should miss Mr. Back, I di- 
rected him to proceed to Fort Providence, and fur- 
nished him with a letter to the gentleman in charge 
of it, requesting immediate supplies might be sent 
to us. 

On my arrival at the house, I found Samandie very 
dispirited, and too weak, as he said, to render any as- 
sistance to Peltier ; upon whom the whole labor of 
getting wood and collecting the means of subsistence 
would have devolved. Conscious, too, that his 
strength would have been unequal to these tasks, they 
had determined upon taking only one meal each day ; 
under these circumstances I considered my return as 
particularly fortunate, as I hoped to stimulate Sa- 
mandre to exertion, and %t any rate I could contribute 
some help to Peltier. I undertook the office of cook- 
ing, and insisted that they should eat twice a day 



In the Arctic Regions. 317 

whenever food could be procured, but as I was too 
weak to pound the bones, Peltier agreed to do that in 
addition to his more fatiguing task of getting wood. 
We had a violent snow storm all the next day, and 
this gloomy weather contributed to the depression of 
spirits under which Adam and Samandre were laboring. 
Neither of them would quit their beds, and they 
scarcely ceased from shedding tears all day ; in vain 
did Peltier and myself endeavor to cheer them. We 
had even to use much entreaty before we prevailed 
upon them to take the meals we had prepared. Our 
situation was indeed distressing, but in comparison 
with that of our friends in the rear, we considered it 
happy. Their condition gave us unceasing solicitude, 
and was the principal subject of our conversation. 

Though the weather was stormy on the 26th, Sa- 
mandre assisted me to gather tripe de roche. Adam, 
who was very ill, and could not now be prevailed upon 
eat this weed, subsisted principally on bones, though 
he also partook of the soup. I 1 he tripe de roche had 
hitherto afforded us our chief support, and we natu- 
rally felt great uneasiness at the prospect of being de- 
prived of it, by its being so frozen as to render it 
impossible for us to gather it. 

We perceived our strength decline every day, and 
every exertion began to be irksome ; when we were 
once seated the greatest effurt was necessary in order 



318 Thirty Years 



to rise, and we had frequently to lift each other from 
our seats ; but even in this pitiable condition we con- 
versed cheerfully, being sanguine as to the speedy ar- 
rival of the Indians. We calculated indeed that if 
they should be near the situation where they had re- 
mained last winter, our men would have reached them 
by this day. Having expended all the wood which we 
could procure from our present dwelling, without en- 
dangering its falling, Peltier began this day to pull 
down the partitions of the adjoining houses. Though 
these were only distant about twenty yards, yet the 
increase of labor in carrying the wood fatigued him so 
much, that by the evening he was exhausted. On the 
next day his weakness was such, especially in the arms, 
of which he chiefly complained, that he with difficulty 
lifted the hatchet ; still he persevered, Samandre and 
I assisting him in bringing in the wood, but our uni- 
ted strength could only collect sufficient to replenish 
the fire four times in the course of the day. As the 
insides of our mouths had become sore from eating the 
bone soup, we relinquished the use of it, and now boiled 
our skin, which mode of dressing we found more 
palatable than frying it, as we had hitherto done. 

On the 29th, Peltier felt his pains more severe, and 
could only cut a few pieces of wood. Samandre, who 
was still almost as weak, relieved him a little time, 
and 1 assisted them in carrying in the wood. We 



In the Arctic Regions. 319 

endeavored to pick some tripe de roche, but in vain, 
as it was entirely frozen. In turning up the snow, in 
searching for bones, I found several pieces of bark, 
which proved a valuable acquisition, as we were almost 
destitute of dry wood proper for kindling the fire. We 
saw a herd of reindeer sporting on the river, about 
half a mile from the house ; they remained there a 
considerable time, but none of the party felt them- 
selves sufficiently strong to go after them, nor was 
there one of us who could have fired a gun without 
resting it. 

Whilst we were seated round the fire this evening, 
discoursing about the anticipated relief, the conversa- 
tion was suddenly interrupted by Peltier's exclaiming 
with joy, " Ah ! le monde !" imagining that he heard 
the Indians in the other room ; immediately after- 
wards, to his bitter disappointment, Dr. Kichardson 
and Hepburn entered, each carrying his bundle. Pel- 
tier, however, soon recovered himself enough to express 
his joy at their safe arrival, and his regret that their 
companions were not with them. When I saw them 
alone my own mind was instantly filled with apprehen- 
sions respecting my friend Hood, and our other com- 
panions, which were immediately confirmed by the 
Doctor's melancholy communication, that Mr. Hood 
and Michel were dead. Perrault and Fontano had 
neither reached the tent, nor been heard of by them. 



320 Thirty Years 



This intelligence produced a melancholy despondency 
in the minds of my party, and on that account the 
particulars were deferred until another opportunity. 
We were all shocked at beholding the emaciated coun- 
tenances of the Doctor and Hepburn, as they strongly 
evidenced their extremely debilitated state. The al- 
teration in our appearance was equally distressing to 
them, for since the swellings had subsided, we were 
little more than skin and bone. The Doctor particu- 
larly remarked the sepulchral tone of our voices, 
which he requested us to make more cheerful ii 
possible, unconscious that his own partook of the same 
key. 

Hepburn having shot a partridge, which was brought 
to the house, the Doctor tore out the feathers, and 
having held it to the fire a few minutes, divided it 
into seven portions. Each piece was ravenously de- 
voured by my companions, as it was the first morsel 
of flesh any of us had tasted for thirty-one days, un- 
less indeed the small gristly particles which we found 
occasionally adhering to the pounded bones may be 
termed flesh. Our spirits were revived by this small 
supply, and the Doctor endeavored to raise them still 
higher by the prospect of Hepburn's being able to kill 
a deer next day, as they had seen, and even fired at, 
several near the house. He endeavored, too, to rouse 
us ±o some attention to the comfort of our apartment 



In the Arctic Regions. 321 

and particularly to roll up, in the day, our blankets 
which (expressly for the convenience of Adam and 
Samandre,) we had been in the habit of leaving by the 
fire where we lay on them. The Doctor having brought 
his prayer-book and Testament, some prayers and 
psalms, and portions of scripture, appropriate to our 
situation, were read, and we retired to bed. 

Next morning the Doctor and Hepburn went out 
early in search of deer ; but, though they saw several 
herds and fired some shots, they were not so fortunate 
as to kill any, being too weak to hold their guns 
steadily. The cold compelled the former to return 
soon, but Hepburn persisted until late in the evening. 

My occupation was to search for skins under the 
snow/ it being now our object immediately to get all 
that we could, but I had not strength to drag in more 
than two of those which were within twenty yards of 
the house until the Doctor came and assisted me. 
We made up our stock to twenty-six, but several of 
them were putrid, and scarcely eatable, even by men 
suffering the extremity of famine. Peltier and Sa- 
mandre continued very weak and dispirited, and they 
were unable to cut fire-wood. Hepburn had in con- 
sequence that laborious task to perform after he came 
back. The Doctor having scarified the swelled parts 
of Adam's body, a large quantity of water flowed out, 
and he obtained some ease, but still kept his bed. 



322 Thirty Tears 



After our usual supper of singed skin and bone 
soup, Dr. Kichardson acquainted me with the afflict- 
ing circumstances attending the death of Mr. Hood 
and Michel, and detailed the occurrences subsequent 
to my departure from them, which I shall give from 
his journal, in his' own words ; but I must here be per- 
mitted to express the heart-felt sorrow with which I 
was overwhelmed at the loss of so many companions ; 
especially for that of my friend Mr. Hood, to whose 
zealous and able co-operation I had been indebted for 
so much valuable assistance during the Expedition, 
whilst the excellent qualities of his heart engaged my 
warmest regard. His scientific observations, together 
with his maps and drawings, evince a variety of talent, 
-which, had his life been spared, must have rendered 
nim a distinguished ornament to his profession, and 
which will cause his death to be felt as a loss to the 
service. 



In the Arctic Regions. 323 



CHAPTER XII 



Dr. RICHARDSON'S NARRATIVE. 

After Captain Franklin Lad bidden us farewell, we 
remained seated by the fire-side as long as the willows, 
the men had cut for us before they departed, lasted. 
We had no tripe de roche that day, but drank an in- 
fusion of the country tea-plant, which was grateful 
from its warmth, although it afforded no sustenance. 
We then retired to bed, where we remained all the 
next day, as the weather was stormy, and the snow- 
drift so heavy, as to destroy every prospect of success 
in our endeavors to light a fire with the green and 
frozen willows, which were our only fuel. Through 
the extreme kindness and forethought of a lady, the 
party, previous to leaving London, had been furnished 
with a small collection of religious books ; of which we 
still retained two or three of the most portable, and 
they proved of incalculable benefit to us. We read 
portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in ad- 



324 Thirty Years 



dition to the morning and evening service, and found 
that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong a 
sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent God, that 
our situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longer 
destitute ; and we conversed, not only with calmness, 
but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained 
confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling 
with hope on our future prospects. Had my poor 
friend been spared to revisit his native land, I should 
look back to this period with unalloyed delight. 

On the morning of the 29th, the weather, although 
still cold, was clear, and I went out in quest* of tripe 
de roche, leaving Hepburn to cut willows for a fire, 
and Mr. Hood in bed. I had no success, as yester- 
day's snow drift was so frozen on the surface of the 
rocks that I could not collect any of the weed ; but, 
on my return to the tent, I found that Michel, the 
Iroquois, had come with a note from Mr. Franklin, 
which stated, that this man, and Jean Baptist Belan- 
ger being unable to proceed, were about to return to 
us, and that a mile beyond our present encampment 
there was a clump of pine trees, to which he recom- 
mended us to remove the tent. Michel informed us 
that he quitted Mr. Franklin's party yesterday morn- 
ing, but, that having missed his way, he had passed 
the night on the snow a mile or two to the northward 
of us. Belanger, he said, being impatient, had left 



In the Arctic Regions. 



the fire about two hours' earlier, and as he had not 
arrived, he supposed he had gone astray. It will be 
seen in the sequel, that we had more than sufficient 
reason to doubt the truth of this story. 

Michel now produced a hare and a partridge which 
he had killed in the morning. This unexpected sup- 
ply of provision was received by us with a deep sense 
of gratitude to the Almighty for his goodness, and wo 
looked upon Michel as the instrument he had chosen 
to preserve all our lives. He complained of cold, and 
Mr. Hood offered to share his buffalo robe with him 
at night : I gave him one of two shirts which I wore, 
whilst Hepburn, in the warmth of his heart, ex- 
claimed, " How I shall love this man if I find that 
he does not tell lies like the others." Our meals 
being finished, we arranged that the greatest part of 
the things should be carried to the pines the next day ; 
and after reading the evening service, retired to bed 
full of hope. 

Early in the morning Hepburn, Michel, and my- 
self, carried the ammunition, and most of the other 
Leavy articles to the pines. Michel was our guide, 
.ind it did not occur to us at the time that his con- 
ducting us perfectly straight was incompatible with 
his story of having gone astray on his way to us. He 
now informed us that he had, on his way to the tent, 
left on the hill above the pines a gun and forty-eight 



&&\> Tliirty Years 



balls, ^Ith Perrault had given him when with the 
rest ti Mr. Franklin's party, he took leave of him. 
It will be seen, on a reference to Mr. Franklin's jour- 
nal, that Perrault carried his gun and ammunition 
with him when they parted from Michel and Belan- 
ger. After we had made a fire, and drank a little of 
the country tea, Hepburn and I returned to the tent, 
where we arrived in the evening, much exhausted with 
our journey. Michel preferred sleeping where he was, 
and requested us to leave him the hatchet, which we 
didj after he had promised to come early in the morn- 
ing to assist us in carrying the tent and bedding. 
Mr. Hood remained in bed all day. Seeing nothing 
of Belanger to-day, we gave him up for lost. 

On the 11th, afwr waiting until late in the morn- 
ing for Michel, who did not come, Hepburn and I 
loaded ourselves with the bedding, and accompanied 
by Mr. Hood, set out fut the pines. Mr. Hood was 
much affected with dimness of sight, giddiness, and 
other symptoms of extreme debility, which caused us 
to move very slow, and to make frequent halts. On 
arriving at the pines, we were much alarmed to find 
that Michel was absent. We feared that he had lost 
his way in coming to us in the morning, although it 
was not easy to conjecture how that could have hap- 
pened, as our footsteps of yesterday were very distinct. 
Hepburn went back for the '^nt, and returned with it 



In the Arctic Regions. 



after dusk, completely worn out with the fatigue of 
the day. Michel, too, arrived at the same time, and 
relieved our anxiety on his account. He reported that 
he had been in chase of some deer which passed near hid? 
sleeping- place in the morning, and although he ds*i 
not come up with them, yet that he found a wolf 
which had been killed by the stroke of a deer's horn, 
and had brought a part of it. We implicitly believed 
this story then, but afterwards became convinced from 
circumstances, the detail of which may be spared, 
that it must have been a portion of the body of Be- 
langer or Perrault. A question of moment here 
presents itself; namely, whether he actually murdered 
these men, or either of them, or whether he found the 
bodies on the snow. Captain Franklin, who is the 
best able to judge of this matter, from knowing their 
situation when he parted from them, suggested the 
former idea, and that both Belanger and Perrault had 
been sacrificed. When Perrault turned back, Captain 
Franklin watched him until he reached a small group 
of wiljows, which was immediately adjoining to the fire, 
and concealed it from view, and at this time the smoke 
of fresh fuel was distinctly visible. Captain Franklin 
conjectures, that Michel having already destroyed Be- 
langer, completed his crime by Perrault't death^ in 
order to screen himself from detection. Although 
this opinion is founded only on circumstances, and isi 



8'2'S Thirty Years 



unsupported by direct evidence, it has been judged 
).:opor to mention it, especially as the subsequent 
conduct of the man shewed that he was capable of 
committing such a deed. The circumstances are very 
4-lrong. It is not easy to assign any other adequate 
motive for his concealing from us that Perrault had 
iurned back, and his request overnight that we should 
lo-ave him the hatchet ; and his cumbering himself 
with it when he went out in the morning, unlike a 
hunter who makes use only of his knife when he kills 
a deer, seem to indicate that he took it for the purpose 
of cutting up something that he knew to be frozen. 
These opinions, however, are the result of subsequent 
consideration. We passed this night in the open air. 

On the following morning the tent was pitched, and 
Michel went out early, refused my offer to accompany 
him, and remained out the whole day. He would not 
sleep in the tent at night, but chose to lie at the fire- 
side. 

On the 13th there was a heavy gale of wind, and 
we passed the day by the fire. Next day, about two 
P.M., the gale abating, Michel set out as he said to 
hunt, but returned unexpectedly in a very short time. 
This conduct surprised us, and his contradictory and 
evasory answers to our questions excited some sus- 
picions, but they did not turn towards the truth. 

October 15th. — In the course of this day Michel 



In the Artie Regions. 329 



expressed much regret that he had stayed behind Mr. 
Franklin's party, and declared that he would set out 
for the house at once if he knew the way. We en- 
deavored to soothe him, and to raise his hopes of the 
Indians speedily coming to our relief, but without 
success. He refused to assist us in cutting wood, but 
about noon, after much solicitation, he set out to hunt. 
Hepburn gathered a kettle of tripe de roche, but 
froze his fingers. Both Hepburn and I fatigued our- 
selves much to-day in pursuing a flock of partridges 
from one part to another of the group of willows, in 
which the hut was situated, but we were too weak to be 
able to approach them with sufficient caution. In the 
evening Michel returned, having met with no success. 
Next day he refused either to hunt or cat wood, 
spoke in a very surly manner, and threatened to leave 
us. Under these circumstances, Mr. Hood and I deem- 
ed it better to promise if he would hunt diligently for 
four days, that then we would give Hepburn a lettei 
for Mr. Franklin, a compass, inform him what course 
to pursue, and let them proceed together to the fort. 
The non-arrival of the Indians to our relief, now led us 
to fear that some accident had happened to Mr. Frank- 
lin, and we placed no confidence in the exertions of 
the Canadians that accompanied him, but we had the 
fullest confidence in Hepburn's returning the mement 
he could obtain assistance. 



330 ; Thirty Tears 

On the 17th I went to conduct Michel to where 
Vaillant/s blanket was left, and after walking about 
three miles, pointed out the hills to him at a distance/ 
and returned to the hut, having gathered a bagful of 
tripe de roclie on the way. It was easier to gather 
this weed on a march than at the tent, for the exercise 
of walking produced a glow of heat, which enabled us 
to withstand for a time the cold to which we were ex- 
posed in scraping the frozen surface of the rocks. On 
the contrary, when we left the fire, to collect it in the 
neighborhood of the hut, we became chilled at once, 
and were obliged to return very quickly. 

Michel proposed to remain out all night, and to hunt 
next day on his way back. He returned in the after- 
noon of the 18th, having found the blanket, together 
with a bag containing two pistols, and some other 
things which had been left beside it. We had some 
tripe de roche, in the evening, but Mr. Hood, from the 
constant griping it produced, was unable to eat more 
than one or two spoonfuls. He was now so weak as 
to be scarcely able to sit up at the fire-side, and com- 
plained that the least breeze of wind seemed to blow 
through his frame. He also suffered much from cold 
during the night. We lay close to each other, but the 
heat of the body was no longer sufficient to thaw the 
frozen rime formed by our breaths on the blankets that 
covered him. 



In the Arctic Regions. 331 

At this period we avoided as much as possible con- 
versing upon the hopelessness of our situation, and 
generally endeavored to lead the conversation towards 
our future prospects in life. The fact is, that with the 
decay of our strength, our minds decayed, and we were 
no longer able to bear the contemplation of the hor- 
rors that surrounded us. Each of us, if I may be al- 
lowed to judge from my own case, excused himself 
from so doing by a desire of not shocking the feelings 
of the others, for we were sensible of one another's 
weakness of intellect, though blind to our own. Yet 
we were calm and resigned to our fate, not a murmur 
escaped us, and we were punctual and fervent in our 
addresses to the Supreme Being. 

On the 19th Michel refused to hunt, or even to as- 
sist in carrying a log of wood to the fire, which was 
too heavy for Hepburn's strength and mine. Mr. Hood 
endeavored to point out to him the necessity and duty 
of exertion, and the cruelty of his quitting us without 
leaving something for our support ; but the discourse, 
far from producing any beneficial effect, seemed only 
to excite his anger, and amongst other expressions he 
made use of the following remarkable one : " It is no 
use hunting, there are no animals, you had better kill 
sad eat me." At length, however, he went out, but 
returned very soon, with a report that he had seen 
three deer, which he was unable to follow from having 



332 Thirty Years 



wet his foot in a small stream of water thinly covered 
with ice, and being consequently obliged to come to 
the fire. The day was rather mild, and Hepburn and 
I gathered a large kettleful of tripe de roche ; Michel 
siept in the tent this night. 

Sunday, October 20. — In the morning we again 
urged Michel to go a hunting, that he might if possi- 
ble leave us some provision, to-morrow being the day 
appointed for his quitting us ; but he shewed great 
unwillingness to go out, and lingered about the fire, 
under the pretense of cleaning his gun. After we had 
read the morning service, I went about noon to gathei 
some tripe de roche. leaving Mr. Hood sitting before 
the tent at the fire- side, arguing with Michel ; Hep- 
burn was employed cutting down a tree at a short dis- 
tance from the tent, being desirous of accumulating a 
quantity of fire- wood before he left us. A short time 
after I went out I heard the report of a gun, and 
about ten minutes afterwards Hepburn called to me in 
a voice of great alarm, to come directly. When I ar- 
rived, I found poor Hood lying lifeless at the fire-side, 
a ball having apparently entered his forehead. I was 
at first horror-struck with the idea, that in a fit of 
despondency he had hurried himself into the presence 
of his almighty Judge, by an act of his own hand ; but 
the conduct of Michel soon gave rise to other thoughts, 
and excited suspicions which were confirmed, when 



In the Arctic Regions. 333 

upon examining the body, I discovered that the shot 
had entered the back part of the head, and passed out 
at the forehead, and that the muzzle of the gun had 
been applied so close as to set fire to the night-cap be- 
hind. The gun, which was of the longest kin^ supplied 
to the Indians, could not have been placed in a posi- 
tion to inflict such a wound, except by a second person. 
Upon inquiring of Michel how it happened, he replied, 
that Mr. Hood had sent him into the tent for the short 
gun, and that during his absence the ldng gun had 
gone off, he did not know whether by accident or not 
He held the short gun in his hand at the time he was 
speaking to me. Hepburn afterwards informed me, 
that previous to the report of the gun, Mr. Hood and 
Michel were speaking to each other in an elevated, 
angry tone ; that Mr. Hood being seated at the fire- 
side, was hid from him by intervening willows, but 
that on hearing the report he looked up,- and saw 
Michel rising up from before the tent door, or just be- 
hind where Mr. Hood was seated, and then going into 
the tent. Thinking that the gun had been discharged 
for the purpose of cleaning it, he did not go to the fire 
at first ; and when Michel called to him that Mr. Hood 
was dead, a considerable time had elapsed. Although 
I dared not openly to evince any suspicion that I 
thought Michel guilty of the deed, yet he repeatedly 
protested that he was incapable of committing such 



334 Thirty Years 



an act, kept constantly on his guard, and carefully 
avoided leaving Hepburn and me together. He was 
evidently afraid of permitting us to converse in private, 
and whenever Hepburn spoke, he inquired if he accu- 
sed him of the murder. It is to be remarked, that he 
understood English very imperfectly, yet sufficient to 
render it unsafe for us to speak on the subject in his 
presence. We removed the body into a clump of 
willows behind the tent, and, returning to the fire, 
read the funeral service in addition to the evening 
prayers. The loss of a young officer, of such distin- 
guished and varied talents and application, may be 
felt and duly appreciated by the eminent characters 
under whose command he had served ; but the calm- 
ness with which he contemplated the probable termi- 
nation of a life of uncommon promise ; and the patience 
and fortitude with which he sustained, I may venture 
to say, unparalleled bodily sufferings, can only be 
known to the companions of his distresses. Owing to 
the effect that the tripe de roche invariably had, when 
he ventured to taste it, he undoubtedly suffered more 
than any of the survivors of the party. Bicker stetK 8 
Scripture Help was lying open beside the body, as if 
it had fallen from his hand, and it is probable that he 
was reading it at the instant of his death. We pass- 
ed the night in the tent together without rest, every 
one being on his guard. Next day, having determined 



In the Arctic Regions. 335 

on going to the Fort, we began to patch and prepare 
our clothes for the journey. We singed the hair off 
a part of the buffalo robe that belonged to Mr. Hood, 
and boiled and ate it. Michel tried to persuade me 
to go to the woods on the Copper-Mine Kiver, and 
hunt for deer, instead of going to the Fort. In the 
afternoon a flock of partridges coming near the tent, 
he killed several, which he shared with us. 

Thick snowy weather and a head wind prevented 
ue from starting the following day, but on the morning 
of the 23d we set out, carrying with us the remainder 
$f the singed robe. Hepburn and Michel had each a 
grm, and I carried a small pistol, which Hepburn had 
I'**ded for me. In the course of the march Michel 
s.W;K>*d us much by his gestures and conduct, was 
lunstantly muttering to himself, expressed an unwill- 
ingness to go to the Fort, and tried to persuade me 
t* go to the southward to the woods, where he said he 
^<uld maintain himself all the winter by killing deer. 
h\ consequence of this behavior, and the expression of 
*#& countenance, I requested him to leave us and to go 
3h iLe ^'Tithward by himself. This proposal increased 
>/in IH-saUire, he threw out some obscure . hints of 
iitiei t; i.imself from all restraint on the morrow ; and 
I overheard him muttering threats against Hepburn, 
whom he openly accused of having told stories against 
hinc. He also for the first time, assumed such a tone 



336 Thirty Years 



of superiority in addressing me, as evinced that he 
considered us to be completely in his power, and he 
gave vent to several expressions of hatred towards the 
white people, or as he termed us in the idiom of the 
voyagers, the French, some of whom, he said, had 
killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. In 
short, taking every circumstance of his conduct into 
consideration, I came to the conclusion, that he would 
attempt to destroy us on the first opportunity that 
offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing 
so from his ignorance of the way to the Fort, but that 
he would never suffer us to go thither in company 
with him. In the course of the day he had several 
times remarked that we were pursuing the same 
course that Mr. Franklin was doing when we left him, 
and that by keeping towards the Bering sun he could 
find his way himself. Hepburn and I were not in a 
condition to resist even an open attack, nor c< u* J we 
by any device escape from him. Our united strength 
was far inferior to his, and, beside his gun. ho v ^s armed 
with two pistols, an Indian b&y<K&&; and a knife. In 
the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there was 
some tripe de roche, he halKul, and said he would 
gather it whilst we went on, aiid. t\at he would soon 
overtake us. Hepburn and I vreu now left together 
for the first time since Mr. Hood's death, and he <* - 
quainted me with several material cirow^t^ne* *, 



In the Arctic Regions. 337 

which he had observed of Michel's behavior, and which 
confirmed me in the opinion that there was no safety 
for us except in his death, and he offered to be the 
instrument of it. I determined, however, as I was 
thoroughly convinced of the necessity of such a dread- 
ful act, to take the whole responsibility upon myself ; 
and immediately upon Michel's coming up, I put an 
end to his life by shooting him through the head with 
a pistol. Had my own life alone been threatened, I 
would not have purchased it by such a measure ; but 
I considered myself as intrusted also with the protec-. 
tion of Hepburn's, a man, who, by his humane atten- 
tions and devotedness, had so endeared himself to me, 
that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own. 
Michel had gathered no tripe de roche, and it was 
evident to us that he had halted for the purpose of 
putting his gun in order, with the intention of attack- 
ing us, perhaps, whilst we were in the act of encamp- 
ing. 

I have dwelt in the preceding part of the narrative 
upon many circumstances of Michel's conduct, not for 
the purpose of aggravating his crime, but to put the 
reader in possession of the reasons that influenced me 
in depriving a fellow creature of life. Up to the period 
of his return to the tent, his conduct had been good 
and respectful to the officers, and in a conversation 

between Captain Franklin, Mr. Hood, and myself, *t 

15 



338 Thirty Years 



Obstruction Kapid, it had been proposed to give him 
a reward upon our arrival at a post. His principles, 
however, unsupported by a belief in the divine truths 
of Christianity, were unable to withstand the pressure 
of severe distress. His countrymen, the Iroquois, are 
generally Christians, but he was totally uninstructed 
and ignorant of the duties inculcated by Christianity ; 
and from his long residence in the Indian country, 
seems to have imbibed, or retained, the rules of con- 
duct which the southern Indians prescribe to them- 
selves. 

On the two following days we had mild but thick 
snowy weather, and as the view was too limited to 
enable us to preserve a straight course, we remained 
encamped amongst a few willows and dwarf pines, 
about five miles from the tent. We found a species 
of cornicularia, a kind of lichen, that was good to eat 
when moistened and toasted over the fire ; and we 
had a good many pieces of singed buffalo hide remain- 
ing. 

On the 26th, the weather being clear and extremely 
cold, we resumed our march, which was very painful 
from the depth of the snow, particularly on the mar- 
gins of the small lakes that lay in our route. We fre- 
quently sunk under the load of our blankets, and 
were obliged to assist each other in getting up. After 
walking about three miles and a half, however, wo 



In the Arctic Regions. 339 

were cheered by the sight of a large herd of reindeer, 
and Hepburn went in pursuit of them ; but his hand 
being unsteady through weakness he missed. He was 
so exhausted by this fruitless attempt, that we were 
obliged to encamp upon the spot, although it was a 
very unfavorable one. 

Next day we had fine and clear, but cold weather. 
We set out early, and, in crossing a hill, found a con- 
siderable quantity of tripe de rocJie. About noon we 
fell upon Little Marten Lake, having walked about 
two miles. The sight of a place that we knew in- 
spired us with fresh vigor, and there being compara- 
tively little snow on the ice, we advanced at a pace 
to which we had lately been unaccustomed. In the 
afternoon we crossed a recent track of a wolverene, 
which, from a parallel maik in the snow, appeared to 
have "been dragging something. Hepburn traced it, 
and upon the borders of the lake found the spine of a 
deer, that it had dropped. It was clean picked, and 
at least one season old; but we extracted the spinal 
marrow from it, which, even in its frozen state, was so 
acrid as to excoriate the lips. We encamped within 
sight of the Dog-rib Kock, and from the coldness oi 
the night and the want of fuel, rested very ill. 

On the 28th we rose at day-break, but from the. 
want of the small fire, that we usually made in the 
mornings to warm our fingers, a very long time was 



340 Thirty Years 

spent in making up our bundles. This task fek tj 
Hepburn's share, as I suffered so much from the cold 
as to be unable to take my hands out of my mittens. 
We kept a straight course for the Dog- rib Kock, 
but owing to the depth of the snow in the valleys we 
had to cross, did not reach it until late in the after- 
noon. We would have encamped, but did not like to 
pass a second night without fire ; and though scarcely 
able to drag our limbs after us, we pushed on to a 
clump of pines, about a mile to the southward of the 
rock, and arrived at them in the dusk of the evening. 
During the last few hundred yards of our march, our 
track lay over some large stones, amongst which I fell 
down upwards of twenty times, and became at length 
so exhausted that I was unable to stand. If Hep- 
burn had not exerted himself far beyond his strength, 
and speedily made the encampment and kindled a 
fire, I must have perished on the spot. This night 
we had plenty of dry wood. 

On the 29th we had clear and fine weather. We 
set out at sunrise, and hurried on in our anxiety to 
reach the house, but our progress was much impeded 
by the great depth of the snow in the valleys. Al- 
though every spot of ground over which we traveled 
to-day, had been repeatedly trodden by us, yet we got 
bewildered in a small lake. We took it for Marten 
Lake, which was three times its size, and fancied that 



In the Arctic Begions. 811 



"W3 saw the rapid and the grounds ahout the fort, al~ 
tLough they were still far distant. Our disappoint- 
ment when this illusion was dispelled, by our reach- 
ing the end of the lake, so operated on our feeble 
minds as to exhaust our strength, and we decided 
upon encamping ; but upon ascending a small emi- 
nence to look for a clump of wood, we caught a 
glimpse of the Big- Stone, a well known rock upon the 
summit of a hill opposite to the Fort, and determined 
upon proceeding. In the evening we saw several 
large herds of reindeer, but Hepburn, who used to be 
considered a good marksman, was now unable to hold 
the gun straight, and although he got near them, all 
hia efforts proved fruitless. In passing through a 
small clump of pines we saw a flock of partridges, 
and he succeeded in killing one after firing several 
shots. We came in sight of the fort at dusk, and it 
is impossible to describe our sensations, when on at- 
taining the eminence that overlooks it, we beheld the 
smoke issuing from one of the chimneys. From not 
having met with any footsteps in the snow, as we drew 
nigh our once cheerful residence, we had been agitated 
by many melancholy forebodings. Upon entering the 
now desolate building, we had the satisfaction of em- 
bracing Captain Franklin, but nc words can convey 
an idea of the filth and wretchedness that met our 
eyes on looking around. Our own misery had stolen 



342 Thirty Years 



upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to the 
contemplation of each other's emaciated figures, but 
the ghastly countenances, dilated eye-balls, and 
sepulchral voices of Mr. Franklin and those with him, 
were more than we could at first bear. 

Conclusion of Dr. Bichardson's Narrative, 



The morning of the 31st was very cold, the wind 
being strong from the north. Hepburn went again in 
quest of deer, and the Doctor endeavored to kill some 
partridges : both were unsuccessful. A large herd of 
deer passed close to the house, the Doctor fired once 
at them, but was unable to pursue them. Adam was 
easier this day, and left his bed. Peltier and Samandre 
were much weaker, and could not assist in the 
labors of the day. Both complained of soreness in 
the throat, and Samandre suffered much from cramps 
in his fingers. The Doctor and Hepburn began this 
day to cut the wood, and also brought it to the house. 
Being too weak to aid in these laborious tasks, I was 
employed in searching for bones, and cooking, and at» 
tending to our more weakly companions. 



In the Arctic Regions. 343 

In the evening, Peltier, complaining much of cold, 
requested of me a portion of a blanket to repair his 
shirt and drawers. The mending of these articles oc- 
cupied him and Samandre until past one A.M., and 
their spirits were so much revived by the employment, 
that they conversed even cheerfully the whole time. 
Adam sat up with them. The Doctor, Hepburn, and 
myself, went to bed. We were afterwards agreeably 
surprised to see Peltier and Samandre carry three or 
four logs of wood across the room to replenish the fire, 
which induced us to hope they still possessed more 
strength than we had supposed. 

November 1. — This day was fine and mild. Hep- 
burn went hunting, but was as usual unsuccessful. As 
his strength was rapidly declining, we advised him to 
desist from the pursuit of deer ; and only to go out 
for a short time and endeavor to kill a few partridges 
for Peltier and Samandre. The Doctor obtained a 
little tripe de roche, but Peltier could not eat any of 
it, and Samandre only a few spoonfuls, owing to the 
soreness of their throats. In the afternoon Peltier 
was so much exhausted, that he sat up with difficulty, 
and looked piteously ; at length he slided from his 
stool upon his bed, as we supposed to sleep, and in 
this composed state he remained upwards of two hours, 
without our apprehending any danger. We were 
then alarmed by hearing a rattling in his throat, and 



344 Thirty Years 

on the Doctor's examining him he was found to ho 
speechless. He died in the course of the night. Sa- 
maudr6 sat up the greater part of the day, and even 
assisted in pounding some bones ; but on witnessing 
the melancholy state of Peltier, he became very low, 
and began to complain of cold and stiffness of the 
joints. Being unable to keep up a sufficient fire to 
warm him, we laid him down and covered him with 
several blankets. He did not, however, appear to get 
better, and I deeply lament to add, he also died before 
daylight. We removed the bodies of the deceased 
into the opposite part of the house, but our united 
strength was inadequate to the task of interring them, 
or even carrying them down to the river. 

It may be worthy of remark that poor Peltier, from 
the time of Benoit's departure, had fixed on the first 
of November as the time when he should cease to ex- 
pect any relief from the Indians, and had repeatedly 
said that if they did not arrive by that day, he should 
not survive. 

Peltier had endeared himself to each of us by hit 
cheerfulness, his unceasing activity, and affectionate 
care and attentions, ever since our arrival at this 
pla 3e. He had nursed Adam with the teuderest solic- 
itude the whole time. Poor Samandrd was willing to 
have taken his share in the labors of the party, had 
he not been wholly incapacitated by his weakness and 



In the Arctic Regions. 345 

low spirits. The severe shock occasioned by the sud- 
den dissolution of our two companions rendered us 
very melancholy. Adam became low and despondent, 
a change which we lamented the more, as we had per- 
ceived he had been gaining strength and spirits for the 
two preceding days. I was particularly distressed by 
the thought that the labor of collecting wood must 
now devolve upon Dr. Richardson and Hepburn, and 
that my debility would disable me from affording them 
any material assistance ; indeed both of them most 
kindly urged me not to make the attempt. They 
were occupied the whole of the next day in tearing 
down the logs of which the store-house was built, 
but the mud plastered between them was so hard 
frozen that the labor of separation exceeded their 
strength, and they were completely exhausted by 
bringing in wood sufficient for less than twelve hours' 
consumption. 

I found it necessary in their absence, to remain 
constantly near Adam, and to converse with him, in 
order to prevent his reflecting on our condition, and 
to keep up his spirits as far as possible. I also lay 
by his side at night. 

On the 3d the weather was very cold, though the 

atmosphere was cloudy. This morning Hepburn was 

affected with swelling in his limbs, his strength, as 

well as that of the Doctor, was rapidly declining ; 

15* 



346 Thirty Years 



they continued, however, to be full of hope. Theif 
utmost exertions could only supply wood to renew the 
fire thrice, and on making it up the last time we went 
to bed. Adam was rather in better spirits, but he 
could not bear to be left alone. Our stock of bones 
was exhausted by a small quantity of soup we made 
this evening. The toil of separating the hair from 
the skins, which in fact were our chief support, had 
now become so wearisome as to prevent us from eat- 
ing as much as we should otherwise have done. 

November 4. — Calm and comparatively mild wea- 
ther. The Doctor and Hepburn, exclusive of their 
usual occupation, gathered some tripe de roche. I 
went a few yards from the house in search of bones, 
and returned quite fatigued, having found but three. 
The Doctor again made incisions in Adam's legs, 
which discharged a considerable quantity of water, and 
gave him great relief. We read prayers and a portion 



of the New Testament in the morning and evening, as 
had been our practice since Dr. Kichardson's arrival ; 
and I may remark that the performance of these duties 
always afforded us the greatest consolation, serving to 
reanimate our hope in the mercy of the Omnipotent, 
who alone could save and deliver us. 

On the 5th the breezes were light, with dark cloudy 
weather, and some snow. The Doctor and Hepburn 
were getting much weaker, and the limbs of the ]at- 



In the Arctic Regions. 347 

ter were now greatly swelled. They came into the 
house frequently in the course of the day to rest them- 
selves, and when once seated, were unable to rise with- 
out the help of one another, or of a stick. Adam was 
for the most part in the same low state as yesterday, 
but sometimes he surprised us by getting up and walk- 
ing with an appearance of increased strength. His 
looks were now wild and ghastly, and his conversation 
was often incoherent. 

The next day was fine, but very cold. The swellings 
in Adam's limbs having subsided, he was free from 
pain, and arose this morning in much better spirits, 
and spoke of cleaning his gun ready for shooting par- 
tridges, or any animals that might appear near the 
house, but his tone entirely changed before the day 
was half over ; he became again dejected, and could 
scarcely be prevailed upon to eat. The Doctor and 
Hepburn were almost exhausted. The cutting of one 
log of wood occupied the latter half an hour ; and the 
other took as much time to drag it into the house, 
though the distance did not exceed thirty yards. I 
endeavored to help the Doctor, but my assistance was 
very trifling. Yet it was evident that, in a day or 
two, if their strength should continue to decline at 
the same rate, I should be the strongest of the party. 

I may here remark, that owing to our loss of flesh, 
the hardness of the floor, from which we were only 



348 Thirty Years 

protected by a blanket, produced soreness over the 
body, and especially those parts on which the weight 
rested in lying, yet to turn ourselves for relief was a 
matter of toil and difficulty. However, during this 
period, and indeed all along after the acute pains of 
hunger, which lasted but three or four days, had sub- 
sided, we generally enjoyed the comfort of a few hours' 
sleep. The dreams which for the most part, but not 
always accompanied it, were usually (though not in- 
variably,) of a pleasant character, being very often 
about the enjoyments of feasting. In the day-time 
we fell into the practice of conversing on common and 
light subjects, although we sometimes discussed with 
seriousness and earnestness topics connected with reli- 
gion. We generally avoided speaking directly of our 
present sufferings, or even of the prospect of relief. I 
observed, that in proportion as our strength decayed, 
our minds exhibited symptoms of weakness, evinced by 
a kind of unreasonable pettishness with each other. 
Each of us thought the other weaker in intellect thar 
himself, and more in need of advice and assistance 
So trifling a circumstance as a change of place re- 
commended by one as being warmer and more comfort- 
able, and refused by the other from a dread of motion, 
frequently called forth fretful expressions which were 
no sooner uttered than atoned for, to be repeated per- 
haps in the course of a few minutes. The same tbing 



In the Arctic Regions. 349 

often occurred when we endeavored to assist each other 
in carrying wood to the fire ; none of us were willing 
to receive assistance, although the task was dispro- 
portionate to our strength. On one of these occasions 
Hepburn was so convinced of this waywardness that 
he exclaimed, " Dear me, if we are spared to return 
to England, I wonder if we shall recover our under- 
standings." 

November 7. — Adam had passed a restless night, 
being disquieted by gloomy apprehensions of approach- 
ing death, which we tried in vain to dispel. He was 
so low in the morning as to be scarcely able to speak. 
I remained in bed by his side to cheer him as much as 
possible. The Doctor and Hepburn went to cut wood. 
They had hardly begun their labor, when they were 
amazed at hearing the report of a musket. They could 
scarcely believe that there was really any one near, 
until they heard a shout, and immediately espied three 
Indians close to the house. Adam and I heard the lat- 
ter noise, and I was fearful that a part of the house had 
fallen upon one of my companions, a disaster which 
had in fact been thought not unlikely. My alarm 
was only momentary, Dr. Richardson came in to com- 
municate the joyful intelligence that relief had arrived. 
He and myself immediately addressed thanksgiving 
to the throne of mercy for this deliverance, but poor 
Adam was in so low a state that he could scarcely 



350 Thirty Years 



comprehend the information. When the Indians en- 
tered, he attempted to rise but sank down again. Bat 
for this seasonable interposition of Providence, his ex- 
istence must have terminated in a few hours, and that 
of the rest probably in not many days. 

The Indians had left Akaitcho's encampment on the 
5th November, having been sent by Mr. Back with all 
possible expedition, after he had arrived at their tents. 
They brought but a small supply of provisions, that 
they might travel quickly. It consisted of dried deer's 
meat, some fat, and a few tongues. Dr. Eichardson, 
Hepburn, and I, eagerly devoured the food, which 
they imprudently presented to us, in too great abun- 
dance, and in consequence we suffered dreadfully from 
indigestion, and had no rest the whole night. Adam 
being unable to feed himself, was more judiciously 
treated by them, and suffered less ; his spirits reviv- 
ed hourly. The circumstance of our eating more food 
than was proper in our present condition, was another 
striking proof of the debility of our minds. We were 
perfectly aware of the danger, and Dr. Eichardson re- 
peatedly cautioned us to be moderate ; but he was 
himself unable to practise the caution he so judicious- 
ly recommended. 

Boudel-kell, the youngest of the Indians, after rest- 
ing about an hour, returned to Akaitcho with the in- 
telligence of our situation, and he conveyed a note 



In the Arctic Regions. 351 

from me to Mr. Back, requesting another supply of 
meat as soon as possible. The two others, " Crooked- 
Foot and the Eat," remained to take care of us 5 until 
we should be able to move forward. 

The note I received by the Indians from Mr. Back, 
communicated a tale of distress with regard to him- 
self and his party, as painful as that which we had 
suffered ; as will be seen hereafter, by his own narra- 
tive. 

November 8. — The Indians this morning requested 
us to remove to an encampment on the banks of the 
river, as they were unwilling to remain in the house 
in which the bodies of our deceased companions were 
lying exposed to view. We agreed to remove but the 
day proved too stormy, and Dr. Bichardson and Hep- 
burn having dragged the bodies to a short distance, and 
covered them with snow, the objections of the Indians 
to remain in the house were removed, and they began 
to clear our room of the accumulation of dirt and 
fragments of pounded bones. The improved state of our 
apartment, and the large and cheerful fires they kept 
up, produced in us a sensation of comfort to which we 
had long been strangers. In the evening they brought 
in a pile of dried wood, which was lying on the river 
side, and on which we had often cast a wishful eye, 
being unable to drag it up the bank. The Indians set 
about every thing with an activity that amazed us. 



352 Thirty Years 



Indeed, contrasted with our emaciated figures and ex- 
treme debility, their frames appeared to us gigantic, and 
their strength supernatural. These kind creatures next 
turned their attention to our personal appearance, and 
prevailed upon us to shave and wash ourselves. The 
beards of the Doctor and Hepburn had been untouch- 
ed since they left the sea coast, and were become of a 
hideous length, and peculiarly offensive to the In- 
dians.* The Doctor and I suffered extremely from 
distention, and therefore ate sparingly. Hepburn was 
getting better, and Adam recovered his strength with 
amazing rapidity. 

November 9. — This morning was pleasantly fine. 
Crooked-Foot caught four large trout in Winter Lake, 
which were very much prized, especially by the Doctor 
and myself, who had taken a dislike to meat, in con- 
sequence of our sufferings from repletion, which ren- 
dered us almost incapable of moving. Adam and 
Hepburn in a great measure escaped this. Though 
the night was stormy, and our apartment freely ad- 
mitted the wind, we felt no inconvenience, the Indians 
were so very careful in covering us up, and in keeping a 

* The first alvine discharges after we received food, were, as Hearne 
remarks on a similar occasion, attended with excessive pain. Previous 
to the arrival of the Indians, the urinary secretion was extremely abun- 
dant, and we were obliged to rise from bed in consequence upwards of 
ten times in a night. This was an extreme annoyance in our reduced 
state. It may, perhaps, be attributed to the quantity of the coun!ry 
tea that we drank. 



In the Arctic Regions* 353 

good fire ; and our plentiful cheer gave such power of 
resisting the cold, that we could scarcely believe other- 
wise than that the season had become milder. 

On the 13th, the weather was stormy, with constant 
snow. The Indians became desponding at the non- 
arrival of the supply, and would neither go to hunt 
nor fish. They frequently expressed their fears of 
some misfortune having befallen Boudel-kell ; and, in 
the evening, went off suddenly, without apprizing us 
of their intention, having first given to each of us a 
handful of pounded meat, which they had reserved. 
Their departure, at first, gave rise to a suspicion of 
their having deserted us, not meaning to return, espe- 
cially as the explanations of Adam, who appeared to 
be in their secret, were very unsatisfactory. At length 
by interrogations, we got from him the information, 
that they designed to march night and day, until they 
should reach Akaitcho's encampment, whence they 
would send us aid. As we had combated their fears 
about Boudel-kell, they, perhaps, apprehended that 
we should oppose their determination, and therefore 
concealed it. We were now left a second time with- 
out food, and with appetites recovered, and strongly 
excited by recent indulgence. 

On the following day the Doctor and Hepburn re- 
sumed their former occupation of collecting wood, and 
I was able to assist a little in bringing it into the 



354 Thirty Years 



house. Adam, whose expectation of the arrival of the 
Indians had been raised by the fineness of the weather, 
became, towards night, very desponding, and refused 
to eat the singed skin. The night was stormy, and 
there was a heavy fall of snow. The next day he be- 
came still more dejected. About eleven Hepburo, 
who had gone out for wood, came in with the intelli- 
gence that a party appeared upon the river. The 
room was instantly swept, and, in compliance with 
the prejudices of the Indians, every scrap of skin was 
carefully removed out of sight ; for these simple peo- 
ple imagine, that burning deer-skin renders them un- 
successful in hunting. The party proved to be 
Crooked-Foot, Thooee-yorre, and the Fop, with the 
wives of the two latter dragging provisions. They 
were accompanied by Benoit, one of our own men. 

We were rejoiced to learn, by a note from Mr. Back, 
dated November 11, that he and his companions had 
so recruited their strength that they were preparing to 
proceed to Fort Providence. Adam recovered his spirits 
on the arrival of the Indians, and even walked about 
the room with an appearance of strength and activity 
that surprised us all. As it was of consequence to get 
amongst the reindeer before our present supply should 
fail, we made preparations for quitting Fort Enter- 
prize the next day ; and, accordingly, at an early hour 
on the 16 th, having united in thanksgiving and prayer, 



In the Arctic Regions. 356 



the whole party left the house after breakfast. Our 
feelings on quitting the Fort, where we had formerly 
enjoyed much comfort, if not happiness, and, latterly, 
experienced a degree of misery scarcely to be paralelled, 
may be more easily conceived than described. The 
Indians treated us with the utmost tenderness, gave 
us their snow-shoes and walked without themselves, 
keeping by our sides, that they might lift us when we 
fell. We descended Winter River, and, about noon, 
crossed the head of Round-Rock Lake, distant about 
three miles from the house, where we were obliged to 
halt, as Dr. Richardson was unable to proceed. The 
swellings in his limbs rendered him by much the weak- 
est of the party. The Indians prepared our encamp- 
ment, cooked for us, and fed us as if we had been 
children ; evincing humanity that would have done 
honor to the most civilized people. The night was 
mild, and fatigue made us sleep soundly. 

From this period to the 26th of November we 
gradually continued to improve, under the kindness 
and attention of our Indians. On this day we arrived 
in safety at the abode of our chief and companion, 
Akaitcho. We were received by the party assembled 
in the leader's tent, with looks of compassion, and 
profound silence, which lasted about a quarter of an 
hour, and by which they meant to express their condo- 
lence for our sufferings. The conversation did not be- 



356 Thirty Tears 



gin until we had tasted food. The Chief, Akaitcho, 
shewed us the most friendly hospitality, and all sorts 
of personal attention, even to cooking for us with his 
own hands, an office which he never performs for him- 
self. Annoethaiyazzeh and Humpy, the Chiefs two 
brothers, and several of our hunters, with their fami- 
lies, were encamped here, together with a number of 
old men and women. In the course of the day we 
were visited by every person of the band, not merely 
from curiosity, I conceive, but rather from a desire to 
evince their tender sympathy in our late distress. Wg 
learned that Mr. Back, with St. Germain and Belan- 
ger, had gone to Fort Providence ; and that, previous 
to his departure, he had left a letter in a cache of 
pounded meat, which he had missed two days ago. 
As we supposed that this letter might acquaint us 
with his intentions more fully than we could gather 
from the Indians, through our imperfect knowledge 
of their language, Augustus, the Esquimaux, whom 
we found here in perfect health, and an Indian lad, 
were dispatched to bring it. 

"We found several of the Indian families in great 
affliction, for the loss of three of their relatives, who 
had been drowned in the August preceding, by the 
upsetting of a canoe near to Fort Enterprize. They 
bewailed the melancholy accident every morning and 
evening, by repeating the names of the persons in a 



In the Arctic Regions. 3.77 



loud singing tone, which was frequently inteiTupted 
by bursts of tears. One woman was so affected by the 
loss of her only son, that she seemed deprived of rea- 
son, and wandered about the tents the whole day, cry- 
ing and singing out his name. 

On the 1st of December we removed with the In- 
dians to the southward. 

On the 4th, we again set off after the Indians about 
noon, and soon overtook them, as they had halted to 
drag from the water, and cut up and share, a moose- 
deer, that had been drowned in a rapid part of the 
river, partially covered with ice. These operations de- 
tained us a long time, which was the more disagreea- 
ble, as the weather was extremely unpleasant from 
cold low fogs. We were all much fatigued at the 
hour of encampment, which was after dark, though 
the day's journey did not exceed four miles. At every 
halt the elderly men of the tribe used to make holes in 
the ice and put in their lines. One of them shared 
the produce of his fishery with us this evening. 

In the afternoon of the 6th, Belanger, and another 
Canadian, arrived from Fort Providence, sent by Mr. 
Weeks, with two trains of dogs, some spirits and to- 
bacco for the Indians, a change of dress for ourselves 
and a little tea and sugar. They also brought letters 
for us from England, and from Mr. Back and Mr. 
Wentzel. By the former we received the gratifying 



358 Thirty Tears 

intelligence of the successful termination of Captain 
Parry's voyage ; and were informed of the promotion 
of myself and Mr. Back, and of poor Hood, our grief 
for whose loss was renewed by this intelligence. The 
gratification which it would otherwise have afforded, 
was materially damped by our sincere regret that he 
had not lived to receive this just reward of his merit 
and services. The letter from Mr. Back stated, that 
the rival Companies in the fur trade had united ; but 
that, owing to some cause which had not been ex- 
plained to him, the goods intended as rewards to 
Akaitcho and his band, which we had demanded in the 
spring from the North- West Company, were not sent. 
There were, however, some stores lying for us at Moose- 
deer Island, which had been ordered for the equipment 
of our voyagers ; and Mr. Back had gone across to that 
establishment, to make a selection of the articles we 
could spare for a temporary present to the Indians. 
The disappointment at the non-arrival of the goods 
was seriously felt by us, as we had looked forward with 
pleasure to the time when we should be enabled to 
recompense our kind Indian friends, for their tender 
sympathy in our distresses, and the assistance they 
had so cheerfully and promptly rendered. I now re- 
gretted to find, that Mr. Wentzel and his party, in 
their return from the sea, had suffered severely on 
their march along the Copper-Mine River, hav?ng on 



In the Arctic Regions. 359 



one occasion, as he mentioned, had no food but tripe 
de roclie for eleven days. 

All the Indians flocked to our encampment to learn 
the news, and to receive the articles brought for them. 
Having got some spirits and tobacco, they withdrew to 
the tent of the Chief, and passed the greater part of 
the night in singing. We had now the indescribable 
gratification of changing our linen, which we had worn 
ever since our departure from the sea-coast. 

December 8. — After a long conference with Akaitcho, 
we took leave of him and his kind companions, and 
set out with two sledges, heavily laden with provision 
and bedding, drawn by the dogs, and conducted by 
Belanger and the Canadian sent by Mr. Weeks. Hep- 
burn and Augustus jointly dragged a smaller sledge, 
laden principally with their own bedding. Adam and 
Benoit were left to follow with the Indians. We en- 
camped on the Grassy-Lake Portage, having walked 
about nine miles, principally on the Yellow-Knife 
River. It was open at the rapids, and in these places 
we had to ascend its banks, and walk through the 
woods for some distance, which was very fatiguing, 
especially to Dr. Richardson, whose feet were seveiely 
galled in consequence of some defect in lis snow- 
shoes. 

On the 11th, however, we arrived at the Fort ; it 
was still under the charge of Mr. Weeks. He wel- 



360 Thirty Years 



corned us in the most kind manner, immediately gave 
us changes of dress, and did every thing in his. power 
to make us comfortable. 

Our sensations, on being once more in a comfortablo 
dwelling, after the series of hardships and miseries we 
had experienced, will be much better imagined than 
any language of mine can describe them. Our first 
act was again to return our grateful praises to the 
Almighty for the manifold instances of his mercy to- 
wards us. Having found here some articles, which 
Mr. Back had sent across from Moose-deer Island, I 
determined on awaiting the arrival of Akaitcho and 
his party, in order to present these to them, and to 
assure them of the promised reward, as soon as it 
could possibly be procured. 

In the afternoon of the 14th, Akaitcho, with his 
whole band, came to the Fort. He smoked his cus- 
tomary pipe, and made an address to Mr. Weeks in 
the hall, previous to his coming into the room in which 
Dr. Kichardson and I were. We discovered at the 
commencement of his speech to us, that he had been 
informed that our expected supplies had not come. 
He spoke of this circumstance as a disappointment, 
indeed, sufficiently severe to himself, to whom his 
band looked up for the protection of their interests, 
but without attaching any blame to us. " The world 
goes badly," he said, "all are poor, you are poor, the 



In the Arctic Regions. 361 

traders appear to be poor, I and my party are poor 
likewise ; and since the goods have not come in, we 
cannot have them. I do not regret having supplied 
you with provisions, for a Copper Indian can never 
permit white men to suffer from want of food on his 
lands, without flying to their aid. I trust, however, 
that we shall, as you say, receive what is due next 
autumn ; and at all events," he added, in a tone of 
good humor, " it is the first time that the white peo- 
ple have been indebted to the Copper Indians." We 
assured him the supplies should certainly be sent to 
him by the autumn, if not before. He then cheerfully 
received the small present we made to himself ; and, 
although we could give a few things only to those 
who had been most active in our service, the others 
who, perhaps, thought themselves equally deserving, 
did not murmur at being left out in the distribution. 
Akaitcho afterwards expressed a strong desire, that we 
should represent the character of his nation in a favor- 
able light to our countrymen. " I know," he said, 
" you write down every occurrence in your books ; but 
probably you have only noticed the bad things we 
have said and done, and have omitted to mention the 
good." In the course of the desultory conversation 
which ensued, he said, that he had been always told 
by us, to consider the traders in the same light as 

ourselves ; and that for his part, he looked upon both 

16 



362 Thirty Years 



as equally respectable. This assurance, made in the 
presence of Mr. Weeks, was particularly gratifying to 
us, as it completely disproved the defence that had 
been set up, respecting the injurious reports that had 
been circulated against us, amongst the Indians in 
the spring ; namely, that they were in retaliation foi 
our endeavors to lower the traders in the eyes of the 
Indians. I take this opportunity of stating my 
opinion, that Mr. Weeks, in spreading these reports, 
was actuated by a mistaken idea that he was serving 
the interest of his employers. On the present occasion, 
we felt indebted to him for the sympathy he displayed 
for our distresses, and the kindness with which he ad- 
ministered to our personal wants. After this con- 
ference, such Indians as were indebted to the Com- 
pany were paid for the provision they had given us, 
by deducting a corresponding sum from their debts ; 
in the same way we gave a reward of sixteen skins of 
beaver to each of the persons who had come to our re- 
lief at Fort Enterprize. As the debts of Akaitcho 
and his hunters had been effaced at the time of his 
engagement with us, we placed a sum, equal to the 
amount of provision they had recently supplied, to 
their credit on the Company's books. These things 
being, through the moderation of the Indians, adjust- 
ed with an unexpected facility, we gave them a keg 
of mixed liquors, (five parts water,) and distributed 



In the Artie Regions. 36" 3 

among them several fathoms of tobacco, and they re- 
tired to their tents to spend the night in merriment. 

/ iam, our interpreter, being desirous of uniting 
himself with the Copper Indians, applied to me for 
his discharge, which I granted, and gave him a bill 
on the Hudson's Bay Company for the amount of his 
wages. These arrangements being completed, we pre- 
pared to cross the lake. 

Mr. Weeks provided Dr. Eichardson and me with a 
cariole each, and we set out at eleven A.M., on the 
15th, for Moose-deer Island. Our party consisted ot 
Belanger who had charge of a sledge, laden with the 
bedding, and drawn by two dogs, our two cariole men 
Benoit, and Augustus. Previous to our departure, 
we had another conference with Akaitcho, who, as 
well as the rest of his party, bade us farewell, with a 
warmth of manner rare among the Indians. 

The badness of Belanger's dogs and the roughness 
of the ice, impeded our progress very much, and oblig- 
ed us to encamp early. We had a good fire made of 
the drift wood, which lines the shores of this lake in 
great quantities. The next day was very cold. We 
began the journey at nine A.M., and encamped at the 
Big Cape, having made another short march, in con- 
sequence of the roughness of the ice. 

On the 17th, we encamped on the most southerly 
of the Keindeer Islands. This night was very stormy, 



364 Thirty Years 



but the wind abating in the morning, we proceeded, 
and by sunset reached the fishing huts of the Com- 
pany at Stony Point. Here we found Mr. Andrews, 
a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company, who regaled 
us with a supper of excellent white fish, for which this 
part of Slave Lake is particularly celebrated. Two 
men with sledges arrived soon afterwards, sent by Mr. 
M'Vicar, who expected us about this time. We set 
off in the morning before day- break, with several 
companions, and arrived at Moose-deer Island about 
one P. M. Here we were received with the utmost 
hospitality by Mr. M'Vicar, the chief trader of the 
Hudson's Bay Company in this district, as well as by 
his assistant, Mr. M'Auley. We had also the happi- 
ness of joining our friend Mr. Back ; our feelings on 
this occasion can be well imagined ; we were deeply 
impressed with gratitude to him for his exertions in 
sending the supply of food to Fort Enterprize, to 
which, under Divine Providence, we felt the preserva- 
tion of our lives to be owing. He gave us an affecting 
detail of the proceedings of his party since our separa- 
tion ; the substance of which I shall convey to the 
reader, by the following extracts from Vis Journal. 



In the Arctic Regions, 365 



CHAPTEE XIII. 
Mr. BACK'S KABBATIVE. 

ocSr 4. Mr. Franklin having directed me to pro- 
ceed with St. Germain, Belanger, and Beauparlant, to 
Fort Enterprize, in the hope of obtaining relief for the 
party, I took leave of my companions, and set out on 
my journey, through a very swampy country, which, 
with the cloudy state of the weather, and a keen 
north-east wind, accompanied by frequent snow show- 
ers, retarded us so much that we scarcely got more 
than four miles, when we halted for the night, and 
made a meal of tripe de roche and some old leather. 
On the 5th, we set out early, amidst extremely deep 
snow, sinking frequently in it up to the thighs, a la- 
bor in our enfeebled and almost worn-out state, that 
nothing but the cheering hopes of reaching the house, 
and affording relief to our friends, could have enabled 
us to support. As we advanced, we lound. tc our mor- 
tification that the tripe de roche, hitherto our sole de- 



366 Thirty Years 

pendence, began to be scarce, so tbat we could only 
collect sufficient to make half a kettleful, which, with 
the addition of a partridge each, that St. Germain had 
killed, made us a tolerable meal ; during this day I 
felt very weak and sore in the joints, particularly be- 
tween the shoulders. At night we encamped among a 
small clump of willows. 

On the 6th we set out at an early hour, pursuing 
our route over a range of hills, at the foot of one of 
which we saw several large pines, and a great quan- 
tity of willows ; a sight that encouraged us to quicken 
our pace, as we were now certain w T e could not be far 
from the woods. Indeed we were making considerable 
progress, when Belanger unfortunately broke through 
the ice, and sunk up to the hips. The weather being 
cold, he was in danger of freezing, but some brushwood 
on the borders of the lake enabled us to make a fire 
to dry him. At the same time we took the oppor- 
tunity of refreshing ourselves with a kettle of swamp 
tea. 

My increasing debility had for some time obliged 
me to use a stick for the purpose of extending my 
arms ; the pain in my shoulders being so acute, that I 
could not bear them to remain in the usual position 
for two minutes together. We halted at five among 
some small brushwood, and made a sorry meal of an 
old pair of leather trowsers, and some swamp tea. 



In the Arctic Regions. 367 



The night was cold with a hard frost, and though 
fcwo persons slept together, yet we could not by any 
means keep ourselves warm, but remained trembling 
the whole time. The following morning we crossed 
several lakes, occasionally seeing the recent tracks of 
deer, and at noon we fell upon Marten Lake ; and it 
happened to be the exact spot where we had been the 
last year with the canoes, and though I immediately 
recognized the place, the men would not believe it to 
be the same ; at length, by pointing out several marks, 
and relating circumstances connected with them, they 
recovered their memory, and a simultaneous expres- 
sion of " Mon Dieu, nous sommes sauves," broke out 
from the whole. Contrary to our expectations, the 
lake was frozen sufficiently to bear us, so that we were 
excused from making the tours of the different bays. 
This circumstance seemed to add fresh vigor to us, 
we walked as fast as the extreme smoothness of the 
ice would permit, intending to reach the Slave Rock 
that night ; but an unforeseen and almost fatal acci- 
dent prevented the prosecution of our plan : Belanger 
(who seemed the victim of misfortune) again broke 
through the ice, in a deep part near the head of the 
rapid, but was timely saved, by fastening our worsted 
belts together, and pulling him out. By urging him 
forwards as quick as his icy garments would admit of, 
to prevent his freezing, we reached a few pines, and 



368 Thirty Years 



kindled a fire ; but it was late before he even felt warm, 
though he was so near the flame as to burn his hair 
twice ; and to add to our distress, three wolves crossed 
the lake close to us. 

The night of the 7th was extremely stormy, and 
about ten the following morning, on attempting to go 
on, we found it totally impossible, being too feeble to 
oppose the wind and drift, which frequently blew us 
over, and on attempting to cross a small lake that ]ay 
in our way, drove us faster backwards than under all 
advantages we could get forwards ; therefore we en- 
camped under the shelter of a small clump of pines, 
secure from the south-west storm that was raging 
around us. In the evening, from there being no tripe 
de roche, we were compelled to satisfy, or rather al- 
lay, the cravings of hunger, by eating a gun cover and 
a pair of old shoes ; at this time I had hardly strength 
to get on my legs. 

The wind did not in the least abate during the night, 
but in the morning of the 9th it changed to north-east, 
and became moderate. We took advantage of this 
circumstance, and rising with great difficulty, set out, 
though had it not been for the hope of reaching the 
house, I am certain, from the excessive faintness 
which almost overpowered me, that I must have re- 
mained where I was. We passed the Slave Kock, 
and making frequent halts, arrived within a short dis- 



In the Arctic Regions. 369 

tance of Fort Enterprize ; but as we perceived neither 
any marks of Indians, nor even of animals, the men 
began absolutely to despair : on a nearer approach, 
however, the tracks of large herds of deer, which had 
only passed a few hours, tended a little to revive their 
spirits, and shortly after we crossed the ruinous thres- 
hold of the long-sought-for spot ; but what was our 
surprise, what our sensations, at beholding every thing 
in the most desolate and neglected state ; the doors 
and windows of that room in which we expected to 
■find provision, had been thrown down, and carelessly 
left so ; and the wild animals of the woods had resort- 
ed there, as to a place of shelter and retreat. Mr. 
Wentzel had taken away the trunks and papers, but 
had left no note to guide us to the Indians. This was 
to us the most grievous disappointment : without the 
assistance of the Indians, bereft of every resource, we 
felt ourselves reduced to the most miserable state, 
which was rendered still worse, from the recollection 
that our friends in the rear were as miserable as our- 
selves. For the moment, however, hunger prevailed, 
and each began to gnaw the scraps of putrid and fro- 
zen meat that were laying about, without waiting to 
prepare them. A fire, however, was made, and the 
neck and bones of a deer, found lying in the house, 
were boiled and devoured. 

I determined to remain a day here to repose our- 

1G* 



370 Thirty Years 

selves, and then to go in search of the Indians, and in 
the event of missing them, to proceed to the first trad- 
ing establishment, which was distant about one hun- 
dred and thirty miles, and from thence send succor to 
my companions. This indeed I should have done im- 
mediately, as the most certain manner of executing 
my purpose, had there been any probability of the 
river and lakes being frozen to the southward, or had 
we possessed sufficient strength to have clambered over 
the rocks and mountains which impeded the direct 
way ; but as we were aware of our inability to do so, 
I listened to St. Germain's proposal, which was, to 
follow the deer into the woods, (so long as they did 
not lead us out of our route to the Indians,) and if 
possible to collect sufficient food to carry us to Fort 
Providence. We now set about making mittens and 
snow-shoes, whilst Belanger searched under the snow, 
and collected a mass of old bones, which when burned 
and used with a little salt, we found palatable enough, 
and made a tolerable meal. At night St. Germain 
returned, having seen plenty of tracks, but no ani- 
mals ; the day was cloudy, with fresh breezes, and the 
river was frozen at the borders. 

On the 11th we prepared for our journey, having 
fiist collected a few old skins of deer, to serve us as 
food, and written a note to be left for our commander, 
to apprize him of our intentions. We pursued the 



In the Arctic Regions. 371 

course of the river to the lower lake, when St. Germain 
fell in, which obliged us to encamp directly to prevent 
his being frozen ; indeed we were all glad of stopping, 
for in our meagre and reduced state it was impossible 
to resist the weather, which at any other time would 
have been thought fine ; my toes were frozen, and al- 
though wrapped in a blanket I could not keep euv 
hands warm. 

The 12 th was excessively cold with .fresh breezes. 
Our meal at night consisted of scraps of old deer skins 
ind swamp tea, and the men complained greatly ot 
their increasing debility. The following morning I 
sent St. Germain to hunt, intending to go some dis- 
tance down the lake, but the weather becoming ex- 
ceedingly thick with snow storms, we were prevented 
from moving. He returned without success, not hav- 
ing seen any animals. We had nothing to eat. 

In the morning of the 14th the part of the lake be- 
fore us was quite frozen. There was so much uncer- 
tainty in St. Germain's answers as to the chance of 
any Indians being in the direction we were then going, 
( although he had previously said that the leader had 
told him- he should be there,) and he gave me so much 
dissatisfaction in his hunting excursions, that I was in- 
duced to send a note to the Commander, whom I sup- 
posed to be by this time at Fort Enterprize, to inform 
him of our situation ; not that I imagined for a mo- 



372 Thirty Years 



ment he could better it, but that by all returning to 
the Fort we might, perhaps, have better success in 
hunting ; with this view I despatched Belanger, much 
against his inclination, and told him to return as 
quick as possible to a place about four miles fur- 
ther on, where we intended to fish, and to await his 
arrival. The men were so weak this day that I could 
get neither of them to move from the encampment ; 
and it was only necessity that compelled them to cut 
wood for fuel, in performing which operation Beau- 
parlant's face became so dreadfully swelled that he 
could scarcely see ; I myself lost my temper on the 
most trivial circumstances, and was become very peev- 
ish ; the day was fine but cold, with a freezing north- 
east wind. We had nothing to eat. 

October 15 — The nisrht was calm and clear, but 

O 7 

it was not before two in the afternoon that we set out ; 
and the one was so weak, and the other so full of com- 
plaints, that we did not get more than three-quarters 
of a mile from our last encampment, before we were 
obliged to put up ; but in tlrs distance we were for- 
tunate enough to kill a partridge, the bones of which 
were eaten, and the remainder reserved for baits to 
fish with. We were fortunate, however, in collecting 
sufficient tripe de roche to make a meal ; and I now 
anxiously awaited Belanger's return, to know what 
course to take. I was now so much reduced, that my 



In the Arctic Regions. 373 

shoulders were as if they would fall from my body, my 
legs seemed unable to support me, and in the disposi- 
tion which I then found myself, had it not been for 
the remembrance, of my friends behind, who relied on 
me for relief, as well as the persons of whom I had 
charge, I certainly should have preferred remaining 
where I was, to the miserable pain of attempting to 
move. 

October 16. — We waited until two in the afternoon 
for Belanger ; but not seeing any thing of him on tho 
lake, we set out, purposing to encamp at the Narrows, 
the place which was said to be so good for fishing, and 
where, according to St. Germain's account, the In- 
dians never failed to catch plenty ; its distance at most 
could not be more than two miles. We had not pro- 
ceeded far before Beauparlant began to complain of in- 
creasing weakness. This was so usual with us that 
no particular notice was taken of it, for in fact there 
was little difference, all being alike feeble ; among 
other things he said whilst we were resting, that he 
should never get beyond the next encampment, for his 
strength had quite failed him. I endeavored to en- 
courage him by explaining the mercy of the Supreme 
Being, who ever beholds with an eye of pity those that 
seek his aid. This passed as common discourse, when 
he enquired where we were to put up ; St. Germain 
pointed to a small clump of pines near us, the only 



374 Thirty Years 



place indeed that offered for fuel. " Well," re j lied 
the poor man, " take your axe, Mr. Back, and I will 
follow at my leisure, I shall join you by the time the 
encampment is made." This is a usual practice of the 
country, and St. Germain and myself went on towards 
the spot ; it was five o'clock and not very cold, but 
rather milder than we had experienced it for some 
time, when, on leaving the ice, we saw a number of 
crows perched upon the top of some high pines near 
us. St. Germain immediately said that there must 
be some dead animals thereabouts, and proceeded to 
search, when we saw several heads of deer, half buried 
in the snow and ice, without eyes or tongues; the 
previous severity of the weather only having obliged 
the wolves and other animals to abandon them. An 
expression of " Oh merciful God ! we are saved," 
broke from us both ; and with feelings more easily im- 
agined than described, we shook hands, not knowing 
what to say for joy. It was twilight, and a fog was 
rapidly darkening the surface of the lake, when St. 
Germain commenced making the encampment ; the 
task was too laborious for me to render him any assist- 
ance, and had we not thus providentially found pro- 
vision, I feel convinced that the next twenty-four 
hours would have terminated my existence. But this 
good fortune, in some measure, renovated me for the 
moment, and putting out my whole strength, I contriv- 



In the Arctic Regions. 375 

ed to collect a few heads, and with incredible difficul- 
ty carried them singly about thirty paces to the fire. 

Darkness stole on us apace, and I became extreme- 
ly anxious about Beauparlant ; several guns were 
fired, to each of which he answered. We then called 
out, and again heard his responses, though faintly, 
when I told St. Germain to go and look for him, as I 
had not strength myself, being quite exhausted. He 
said, that he had already placed a pine branch on the 
ice, and he could then hardly find his way back, but 
if he went now he should certainly be lost. In tbis 
situation I could only hope that as Beauparlant had 
my blanket, and every thing requisite to light a fire, 
he might have encamped at a little distance from us. 

October 17. — The night was cold and clear, but we 
could not sleep at all, from the pains of having eaten. 
We suffered the most excruciating torments, though 
I in particular did not eat a quarter of what would 
have satisfied me ; it might have been from using a 
quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the legs of deer, 
which neither of us could avoid doing, so great was 
our hunger. In the morning, being much agitated 
for the safety of Beauparlant, I desired St. Germain 
to go in search of him, and to return with him as 
quick as possible, when I would have something pre- 
pared for them to eat. 

It was, however, late when he arrived, with a small 



376 Thirty Years 



bundle which Beauparlant was accustomed to carry, 
and with tears in his eyes, told me that he fcuncl our 
poor companion dead. Dead ! I could not believe 
him. " It is so, Sir," said St. Germain, u after hal- 
looing and calling his name to no purpose, I went to- 
wards our last encampment, about three-quarters of a 
mile, and found him stretched upon his back on a sand 
bank frozen to death, his limbs all extended and 
swelled enormously, and as hard as the ice that was 
near him ; his bundle was behind him, as if it had 
rolled away when ho fell, and the blanket which he 
wore around his neck and shoulders thrown on one 
side. Seeing that there was no longer life in him, I 
threw your covering over him, and placed his snow- 
shoes on the top of it." 

I had not even thought of so serious an occurrence 
in our little party, and for a short time was obliged to 
give vent to my grief. Left with one person and both 
of us weak, no appearance of Belanger, a likelihood 
that great calamity had taken place amongst oui 
other companions, and upwards of seventeen days' 
march from the nearest Establishment, and myself 
unable to carry a burden, all these things pressed 
heavy on me ; and how to get to the Indians or to 
the Fort I did not know ; but that I might not depress 
St. Germain's spirits, I suppressed the feelings which 
these thoughts gave rise to, and made some arrange- 



In the Arctic Regions. 377 



ments for the journey to Fort Providence. We con- 
tinued very weak. 

October 18. — While we were this day occupied in 
scraping together the remains of some deers' meat, we 
observed Belanger coming round a point apparently 
scarcely moving. I went to meet him, and made im- 
mediate inquiries about my friends. Five, with the 
Captain, he said, were at the house, the rest were left 
near the river, unable to proceed ; but he was too 
weak to relate the whole. He was conducted to the 
encampment, and paid every attention to, and by de- 
grees we heard the remainder of his tragic tale, at 
which the interpreter could not avoid crying. He 
then gave me a letter from my friend the Commander, 
which indeed was truly afflicting. The simple story 
of Belanger I could hear, but when I read it in another 
language, mingled with the pious resignation of a good 
man, I could not sustain it any longer. The poor 
man was much affected at the death of our lamented 
companion, but his appetite prevailed over every other 
feeling ; and had I permitted it, he would have done 
himself an injury ; for after two hours' eating, prin- 
cipally skin and sinews, he complained of hunger. 
The day was cloudy, with snow and fresh breezes 
from the north-east by east. 

The last evening, as well as this morning, the 19th, 
I mentioned my wishes to the men, that we should 



378 Thirty Years 



proceed towards Keindeer Lake, but this proposal met 
with a direct refusal. Belanger stated his inability to 
move, and St. Germain used similar language ; add- 
ing, for the first time, that he did not know the route, 
and that it was of no use to go in the direction I men- 
tioned, which was the one agreed upon between the 
Commander and myself. I then insisted that we 
should go by the known route, and join the Com- 
mander, but they would not hear of it ; they would 
remain where they were until they had regained their 
strength ; they said I wanted to expose them again to 
death (/aire perir). In vain did I use every argu- 
ment to the contrary, for they were equally heedless to 
all. Thus situated, I was compelled to remain, and 
from this time to the 25th, we employed ourselves in 
looking about for the remnants of the deer and pieces 
of skin, which even the wolves had left ; and by 
pounding the bones, we were enabled to make a sort of 
soup, which strengthened us greatly, though each still 
complained of weakness. It was not without the 
greatest difficulty that I could restrain the men from 
eating every scrap they found, though they were well 
aware of the necessity there was of being economical 
in our present situation, and to save whatever they 
could for our journey ; yet they could not resist the 
temptation, and directly my back was turned they 
seldom failed to snatch at the nearest piece to 



In the Arctic Regions. 379 

them, whether cooked or raw it made no difference. 
We had set fishing-lines, but without any success ; 
and we often saw large herds of deei crossing the lake 
at full speed, and wolves pursuing them. 

The night of the 25th was cold, with harrl frost. 
Early the next morning I sent the men to cover the 
body of our departed companion, Beauparlant, with the 
trunks and branches of trees, which they did ; and 
shortly after their return I opened his bundle, and 
found it contained two papers of vermilion, several 
strings of beads, some fire-steels, flints, awls, fish- 
hooks, rings, linen, and the glass of an artificial hori- 
zon. My two men began to recover a little as well as 
myself, though I was by far the weakest of the three ; 
the soles of my feet were cracked all over, and the 
other parts were as hard as a horn, from constant 
walking. I again urged the necessity of advancing 
to join the Commander's party, but they said they 
were not yet sufficiently strong. 

On the 27th we discovered the remains of a deer, 
on which we feasted. The night was unusually cold, 
and ice formed in a pint-pot within two feet of a fire. 
The corruscations of the Aurora were beautifully bril- 
liant ; they served to shew us eight wolves, which we 
had some trouble to frighten away from our collection 
of deers' bones ; and, with their howling, and the con- 
stant cracking of the ice, we did not get much rest. 



380 Thirty Years 



Having collected with great care, and by self-denial, 
two small packets of dried meat or sinews, sufficient 
(for men who knew what it was to fast) to last for 
eight days, at the rate of one indifferent meal per day, 
we prepared to set out on the 30th. I calculated that 
we should be about fourteen days in reaching Fort 
Providence ; and, allowing that we neither killed deer 
nor found Indians, we could but be unprovided with 
food six days, and this we heeded not whilst the pros- 
pect of obtaining full relief was before us. According- 
ly we set out against a keen north-east wind, in order 
to gain the known route to Fort Providence. We 
saw a number of wolves and some crows on the middle 
of the lake, and supposing such an assembly was not 
met idly, we made for them, and came in for a share 
of a deer, which they had killed a short time before, 
and thus added a couple of meals to our stock. By 
four P.M. we gained the head of the lake, or the di- 
rect road to Fort Providence, and some dry wood being 
at hand, we encamped ; by accident it was the same 
place where the Commander's party had slept on the 
19 th, the day on which I suppose they had left Fort 
Enterprize ; but the encampment was so small, that 
we feared great mortality had taken place among them ; 
and I am sorry to say the stubborn resolution of my 
men, not to go to the house, prevented me from deter- 
mining this most anxious point, so that I now almost 



In the Arctic Regions. 381 

dreaded passing their encampments, lest I should see 
some of our unfortunate friends dead at each spot. 
Our fire was hardly kindled, when a fine herd of deer 
passed close to us. St. Germain pursued them a short 
distance, but with his usual want of success, so that 
we made a meal off the muscles and sinews we had 
dried, though they were so tough that we could scarce- 
ly cut them. My hands were benumbed throughout 
the march, and we were all stiff and fatigued. The 
marching of two days weakem d us all very much, and 
the more so on account of our exertion to follow the 
tracks of our Commander's party ; but we lost them, 
and concluded that they were not before us. Though 
the weather was not cold, I was frozen in the face, 
and was so reduced and affected by these constant ca- 
lamities, as well in mind as in body, that I found mucu 
difficulty in proceeding even with the advantages I had 
enjoyed. 

November 3. — We set out before day, though, in 
fact, we were all better adapted to remain, from the 
excessive pain which we suffered in our joints, and pro- 
ceeded till one P.M., without halting, when Belanger, 
who was before, stopped, and cried out, " Footsteps 
of Indians." It is needless to mention the joy that 
brightened the countenances of each at this unlooked- 
for sight ; we knew relief must be at hand, and con- 
sidered our sufferings at an end. St. Germain inspect- 



382 Thirty Years 



ed the tracks, and said that three persons had passed 
the day before ; and that he knew the remainder must 
be advancing to the southward, as it was customary 
with Indians, when they sent to the trading establish- 
ment on the first ice. On this information we en- 
camped, and, being too weak to walk myself, I sent 
St. Germain to follow the tracks, with instructions to 
the Chief of the Indians to provide immediate assist- 
ance for such of our friends who might be at Fort En- 
terprize, as well as for ourselves, and to lose no time 
in returning to me. I was now so exhausted, that 
had we not seen the tracks this day, I had determined 
on remaining at the next encampment, until the men 
could have sent aid from Fort Providence. We had 
finished our small portion of sinews, and were prepar- 
ing for rest, when an Indian boy made his appearance 
with meat. St. Germain had arrived before sunset at 
the tents of Akaitcho, whom he found at the spot 
where he had wintered last year ; but imagine my sur- 
prise, when he gave me a note from the Commander, 
and said, that Benoit and Augustus, two of the men, 
had just joined them. The note was so confused, by 
the pencil marks being partly rubbed out, that I could 
not decipher it clearly ; but it informed me, that he 
had attempted to come with the two men, but finding 
his strength inadequate to the task, he relinquished 
nis design, and returned to Fort Enterprize, to awaH 



In the Arctic Regions. 383 

relief with the others. There was another note for the 
gentleman in charge of Fort Providence, desiring him 
to send meat, blankets, shoes, and tobacco. Akaitcho 
wished me to join him on the ensuing day, at a place 
which the boy knew, where they were going to fish ; 
and I was the more anxious to do so, on account of 
my two companions : but particularly to hear a full 
relation of what had happened, and of the Command- 
er's true situation, which I suspected to be much 
worse than he had described. 

In the afternoon I joined the Indians, and repeated 
to Akaitcho what St. Germain had told him ; he 
seemed much affected, and said, he would have sent 
relief directly, though I had not been there ; indeed, 
his conduct was generous and humane. The next 
morning, at an early hour, three Indians, with loaded 
sledges of meat, skins, shoes, and a blanket, set out 
for Fort Enterprize ; one of them was to return 
directly with an answer from Captain Franklin, to 
whom I wrote ', but in the event of his death, he was 
to bring away all the papers he could find ; and he 
promised to travel with such haste, as to be able to 
return to us on the fourth day. I was now somewhat 
more easy, having done all in my power to succor my 
unfortunate companions ; but was \ery anxious for 
the return of the messenger. The Indians brought 
me meat in small quantities, though sufficient for our 



384 Thirty Years 



daily consumption ; and, as we had a little ammuni- 
tion, many were paid oh the spot for what they gave. 
On the 9th I had the satisfaction of seeing the In- 
dian arrive from Fort Enterprize. At first he said 
they were all dead, but shortly after he gave me a 
note, which was from the Commander, and then I 
learned all the fatal particulars which had befallen 
them. I now proposed that the Chief should imme- 
diately send three sledges, loaded with meat, to Fort 
Enterprize, to make a cache of provision at our present 
encampment, and also, that he should here await the 
arrival of the Commander. By noon, two large trains, 
laden with meat, were sent off for Fort Enterprize 
The next day we proceeded on our journey, and ar- 
rived at Fort Providence on the 21st of November. 

Conclusion of Mr. Bach's Narrative. 



I have little now to add to the melancholy detail 
into whioh I felt it proper to enter ; but I cannot 
omit to state, that the unremitting care and attentions 
of our kind friends, Mr. M'Vicar and Mr. M'Auley, 
together with the improvement of our diet, materially 



In the Arctic Regions. 385 

contributed to the restoration of our health ; so that, 
by the end of February, the swellings of our limbs, 
which had returned upon us, had entirely subsided, 
and we were able to walk to any part of the island. 
Our appetites gradually moderated, and we nearly re- 
gained our ordinary state of body before the spring. 
Hepburn alone suffered from a severe attack of rheu- 
matism, which confined him to his bed for some weeks. 
The usual symptoms of spring having appeared, on 
the 25th of May we prepared to embark for Fort 
Ohipewyan. Fortunately, on the following morning, 
a canoe arrived from that place with the whole of the 
stores which we required for the payment of Akaitcho 
and the hunters. It was extremely gratifying to us 
to be thus enabled, previous to our departure, to make 
arrangements respecting the payment of our late In- 
dian companions ; and the more so, as we had recently 
discovered that Akaitcho, and the whole of the tribe, 
in consequence of the death of the leader's mother, 
and the wife of our old guide Keskarrah, had broken 
and destroyed every useful article belonging to them, 
and that they were in the greatest distress. It was an 
additional pleasure to find our stock of ammunition 
was more than sufficient to pay them what was due, 
and that we could make a considerable present of this 
most essential article to every individual that had been 

attached to the Expedition. 

17 



38b' Thirty Tears 



We quitted Moose-deer Island at five P.M., on the 
26 th, accompanied by Mr. M' Vicar and Mr. M'Auley, 
and nearly all the voyagers at the establishment, hav- 
ing resided there about five months, not a day of which 
had passed without our having cause of gratitude, for 
the kind and unvaried attentions of Mr. M'Vicar and 
Mr. M'Auley. These gentlemen accompanied us as 
far as Fort Chipewyan, where we arrived on the 2d of 
June ; here we met Mr. Wentzel, and the four men, 
who had been sent with him from the mouth of the 
Copper-Mine Kiver ; and I think it due to that gen- 
tleman, to give his own explanation of the unfortunate 
circumstances which prevented him from fulfilling ray 
last instructions, respecting the provisions to have 
been left for us at Fort Enterprize.* 

* " After you sent me back from the mouth of the Copper-Mine 
River, and I had overtaken the Leader, Guides, and Hunters on the 
fifth day leaving the sea-coast, as well as on our journey up the River, 
they always expressed the same desire of fulfilling their promises, 
although somewhat dissatisfied at being exposed to privation while on 
our return, from a scarcity of animals ; for as I have already stated in 
my first communication from Moose-Deer Island, we had been eleven 
days with no other food but tripe de roche. In the course of this time 
an Indian, with his wife and child, who were traveling in company 
with us, were left in the rear, and are since supposed to have perished 
through want, as no intelligence had been received of them at Fort 
Providence in December last. On the 7th day after I had joined the 
Leader, &c, &c, and journeying on together, all the Indians except- 
ing Petit, Pied and Bald-Head, left me to seek their families, and 



In the Arctic Regions. 387 

In a subsequent conversation he stated to me, that 
the two Indians, who were actually with him at Fort 
Enterprize, whilst he remained there altering his 
canoe, were prevented from hunting, one by an acci- 
dental lameness, the other by the fear of meeting 
alone some of the Dog-Eib Indians. 

crossed Point Lake at the Crow's Nest, where Humpy had prom- 
ised to meet his brother Ekehcho* with the families, but did not fulfill, 
nor did any of my party of Indians know where to find them : for we 
had frequently made fires to apprize them of our approach, yet none 
appeared in return as answers. This disappointment, as might be ex- 
pected, served to increase the ill-humor of the Leader and party, the 
brooding of which (agreeably to Indian custom,) was liberally dis- 
charged on me in bitter reproach for having led them from their fam- 
ilies, and exposed them to dangers and hardships, which but 
for my influence, they said, they might have spared themselves. 
Nevertheless, they still continued to profess the sincerest desire of 
meeting your wishes in making caches of provisions, and remaining 
until a late season on the road that leads from Fort Enterprize to 
Fort Providence, through which the Expedition-men had traveled so 
often the year before — remarking, however, at the same time, that 
they had not the least hopes of ever seeing one person return from 
the Expedition. These alarming fears I never could persuade them 
to dismiss from their miuds ; they always sneered at what they called 
' my credulity,' — ' If,' said the Gros Pied,f ' the Great Chief (meaning 
Captain Franklin,) or any of his party, should pass at my tents, he or 
they shall be welcome to all my provisions, or any thing else that I 
may have.' And I am sincerely happy to understand, by your com- 
munication, that in this he had kept his word — in sending you with 

* Akaitcho the Leader. -\Also Akaitcho. 



388 Thirty Tears 



We were here furnished with a canoe by Mr Smith, 
and a bowman, to act as our guide ; and having left 
Fort Ohipewyan on the 5th, we arrived, on the 4th of 
July, at Norway House. Finding at this place, that 
canoes were about to go down to Montreal, I gave all 
our Canadian voyagers their discharges, and sent them 
by those vessels, furnishing them with orders on the 
Agent of the Hudson's Bay Company for the amount 
of their wages. We carried Augustus down to York 

such promptitude and liberality the assistance your truly dreadful 
situation required. But the party of Indians, on whom I had placed 
the utmost confidence and dependence, was Humpy and the White 
Capot Guide, with their sons and stweral of the discharged Hunters from 
the Expedition. This party was well-disposed, and readily promised 
to collect provisions for the possible return of the Expedition, provid- 
ed they could get a supply of ammunition from Fort Providence ; for 
when I came up with them, they were actually starving, and converting 
old axes into ball, having no other substitute — this was unlucky. Yet 
they were well inclined, and I expected to find means at Port Provi- 
dence to send them a supply, in which I was, however, disappointed, for 
I found that establishment quite destitute of necessaries ; and then, 
uhortly after I had left them, they had the misfortune of losing three 
of their hunters, who were drowned in Marten Lake ; this accident 
was, of all others, the most fatal that could have happened — a truth 
which no one, who has the least knowledge of the Indian character, 
will deny ; and as they were nearly connected by relationship to the 
Leader, Humpy, and White Capot Guide, the three leading men of this 
part of- the Copper Indian Tribe, it had the effect of unhinging (if I 
may use the expression,) the minds of all these families, and finally 
destroying all the fond hopes I had so sanguinely conceived of their 



In tfie Arctic Regions. 380 

Factory, where we arrived on the 14th of July, and 
were received with every mark of attention and kind- 
ness by Mr. Simpson, the Governor, Mr. M'Tavish, 
and, indeed, by all the officers of the United Com- 
panies. And thus terminated our long, fatiguing, 
and disastrous travels in North America, having jour- 
neyed by water and by land (including our navigation 
of the Polar Sea,) five thousand five hundred and fifty 
miles. 

assisting the expedition, should it come back by the Annadesse River. 
of which they were not certain. 

" As to my not leaving a letter at Fort Enterprize, it was because 
Dy some mischance, you had forgot to give me paper when we 
parted.* 

" I however wrote this news on a plank, in pencil, and placed it ir 
the top of your former bedstead, where I left it. Since it has not 
been found there, some Indians must have gone to the house after my 
departure, and destroyed it. These details, Sir, I have been induced 
to enter into (rather unexpectedly,) in justification of myself, and hope 
it will be satisfactory." 

* 1 certainly offered Mr. Wentzel some paper when he quitted us, but he 
declined it, having then a note book ; and Mr. Back gave him a pencil. 



390 Thirty Tears 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Franklin's Second Great Expedition was made 
in 1825, and over much of the same ground as that 
traversed in his first. His preparations were more 
complete than on his first Expedition. His old friends 
Richardson and Back accompanied him, the whole 
party crossing the Atlantic in an American packet, 
and passing through the State of New York. At 
New York, Albany, and other places on their route 
receiving the enthusiastic attention of the people — 
to Canada and thence to Methoye River, north of 
Hudson's Bay, where they — the officers — -joined the 
boats of the Expedition. 

On the 30th of June, the party entered the Methoye 
River, and early in July crossed the lake of the same 
name. On the 12th, Capt. Franklin and Dr. Richard- 
son set out in a canoe for Fort Chipewyan, to make 
preparations for the entire party. On the L5th they 
arrived at Athabasca Lake, and were by night at the 
Fort. By the end of the month Fort Resolution was 



In the Arctic Regions. 391 

reached, and all the portages on the road to Bear Lake 
crossed. The first week in August was spent on the 
Mackenzie River in getting to Fort Simpson. On the 
8th of August a voyage to the sea was agreed upon 
for Capt. Franklin, while Dr. Richardson should coast 
above the northern shore of Bear Lake to the Copper- 
Mine River, while Lieutenant Back was to prepare 
winter quarters for the entire party. Capt. Franklin 
set off at noon, arriving in two days at Fort G-ood 
Hope, the lowest station of the Hudson Company. 
By the middle of August they reached latitude 69°, 
14' N., — longitude 135°, 57 W., — the north-eastern 
entrance to the main channel of Mackenzie River, and 
1045 miles from Slave Lake. Salt water was 
reached, and the party indulged in a little enthusiasm. 
The next day the boats were turned towards the 
Mackenzie on their way back to winter quarters. 
September 1st, the river Mackenzie was left for a 
stream which flows from Bear Lake, and on the 5th 
reached the winter quarters. 

The winter of 1825-6 was passed by the company 
in comparative comfort. Buildings were erected and 
a plentiful supply of provisions stored in them, to- 
gether with the expected supplies from fishing and 
hunting, to carry the party cozily through another 
year. 

Amusements were also provided for the men, while 



392 Thirty Years 



the "officers made good use of a stock of books and 
quarterlies which they had brought with them. 

The winter, though severe, passed rapidly away, 
and spring opened. We quote from Franklin's 
Journal. 

Wednesday 0n t}l6 2 4th of May, 1826, the mosquitoes 
appeared, feeble at first, but, after a few days, they 
became vigorous and tormenting. The first flower, a 
tussilago, was gathered on the 27th. Before the close 
of the month, several others were in bloom, of which 
the most abundant was the white anemone. The 
leaf-buds had not yet burst, though just ready to 
open. 

The carpenters had now finished the new boat, 
which received the name of the Keliance. It was 
constructed of fir, with birch timbers, after the model 
of our largest boat, the Lion, but with a more full 
bow, and a finer run abaft. Its length was twenty- 
six feet, and breadth five feet eight inches. It was 
fastened in the same manner as the other boats, but 
with iron instead of copper, and to procure sufficient 
nails we were obliged to cut up all the spare axes, 
trenches, and ice-chisels. Being without tar, we 
substituted strips of water-proof canvas, soaked in 
some caoutchouc varnish, which we had brought out, 
to lay between the seams of the planks ; and for 
paint, we made use of resin, procured from the pine- 



In the Arctic Begions. 393 

trees, boiled and mixed with grease. The other boats 
were afterwards put in complete repair. The Lion 
required the most, in consequence of the accident in 
Bear Lake River. The defects in the other two prin- 
cipally arose from their having been repaired at Gum 
berland House with the elm that grows in its vicinity, 
and is very spongy. ' We now substituted white spruct 
fir, which, when grown in these high latitudes, is an 
excellent wood for boat-building. We were surprised 
to find, that, notwithstanding the many heavy blows 
these boats had received in their passage to this place, 
there was not a timber that required to be changed. 
May. In our bustle, we would gladly have dispensed 
with the presence of the Dog- Ribs (Indians) who now 
visited us in great numbers, without bringing any 
supplies. They, continued hanging about the fort, 
and their daily drumming and singing over the sick, 
the squalling of the children, and bawling of the 
men and women, proved no small annoyance. We 
were pleased, however, at perceiving that the ammu- 
nition we had given to them in return for meat, had 
enabled them to provide themselves with leathern 
tents. Their only shelter from wind, snow, or rain, 
before this season, had been a rude barricade of pine 
branches. Fortunately, for our comfort, they were 
obliged to remove before the expiration of the month 
to a distant fishery to procure provision. 



394 Thirty Years 



TbuSTist. ^h e preparations for the voyage along the 
coast being now in a state of forwardness, my atten- 
tion was directed to the providing for the return of 
Dr. Richardson's party to this establishment in the 
following autumn, and to the securing means of sup- 
port for all the members of the Expedition at this 
place, in the event of the western party being like- 
wise compelled to return to it. Respecting the first 
point, it was arranged that Beaulieu the interpreter, 
and four Canadians, should quit Fort Franklin on the 
6 th of August, and proceed direct to Dease River 
with a bateau, and wait there until the 20th of Sep- 
tember, when, if Dr. Richardson did not appear, 
they were to come back to the fort in canoes, and to 
leave the boat, with provision and other necessaries, 
for the use of the eastern detachment. All these 
points were explained to Beaulieu, and he not only 
understood every part of the arrangement, but seem- 
ed very desirous to perform the important duty en- 
trusted to him. I next drew up written instructions 
for the guidance of Mr. Dease, during the absence of 
the Expedition, directing his attention first to the 
equipment and despatch of Beaulieu on the 6th of 
August, and then to the keeping the establishment 
well-stored with provision. He was aware of the 
probability that the western party would meet his 
Majesty's ship Blossom, and go to Canton in her. 



In the Arctic Regions. 395 

But as unforeseen circumstances might compel us to 
winter on the coast, I considered it necessary to warn 
him against inferring, from our not returning in the 
following autumn, that we had reached the Blossom, 
He was, therefore, directed to keep Fort Franklin 
complete, as to provision, until the spring of 1828. 
Dr. Bichardson was likewise instructed, before he left 
the fort in 1827, on his return to England, to see that 
Mr. Dease fully understood my motives for giving 
these orders, and that he was provided with the 
means of purchasing the necessary provision from the 
Indians. 

"^f^- The long reign of the east wind was at length 
terminated by a fresh S. W. breeze, and the ice yet 
remaining on the small lake soon disappeared, under 
the softening effects of this wind. This lake had 
been frozen eight months, wanting three days. 
A narrow channel being opened along the western 
border of Bear Lake, on the 14th Dr. Bichardson took 
advantage of it, and went in a small canoe with two 
men to examine the mountains on the borders of Bear 
Lake Biver, and to collect specimens of the plants 
that were now in flower, intending to rejoin the party 
at Fort Norman. On the same day, in 1821, the for- 
mer Expedition left Fort Enterprise for the sea. 

T i5thf' ^he equipments of the boats being now com- 
plete, they were launched on the small lake, and tried 



396 Thirty Years 



under oars and sails. In the afternoon the men were 
appointed to their respective stations, and furnished 
with the sky-blue waterproof uniforms, and feathers, 
as well as with the warm clothing which had been 
provided for the voyage. I acquainted them fully 
with the object of the Expedition, and pointed out 
their various duties. They received these communi- 
cations with satisfaction, were delighted with the 
prospect of the voyage, and expressed their readiness 
to commence it immediately. Fourteen men, includ- 
ing Augustus, were appointed to accompany myself 
and Lieutenant Back, in the Lion and Reliance, the 
two larger boats ; and ten, including Ooligbuck, to 
go with Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall, in the Dol- 
phin and Union. In order to make up the complement 
of fourteen for the western party, I proposed to re- 
ceive two volunteers from the Canadian voyagers ; and 
to the credit of Canadian enterprise, every man came 
forward. I chose Francois Felix and Alexis Yivier, 
because they were the first who offered their services, 
and this too without any stipulation as to increase of 
wages. 

Spare blankets and everything that could be useful 
for the voyage, or as presents to the Esquimaux, 
which our stores could furnish, were divided between 
the eastern and western parties, and put up into bales 
of a size convenient for stowage. This interesting 



In the Arctic Regions. 397 

day was closed by the consumption of a small quanti- 
ty of rum, reserved for the occasion, followed by a 
merry dance, in which all joined with great glee, in 
their working dresses. On the following Sunday the 
officers and men assembled at Divine service, dressed 
in their new uniforms ; and in addition to the ordi- 
nary service of the day, the special protection of 
Providence was implored on the enterprise we were 
about to commence. >' 7 The guns were cleaned the next 
day, and stowed in the arm chests, which had been 
made to fit the boats. Tuesday and Wednesday 
were set apart for the officers and men to pack their 
own things. A strong western breeze occurred on the 
21st, which removed the ice from the front of the 
house and opened a passage to the Bear Lake Kiver. 
The men were sent with the boats and stores to the 
river in the evening, and were heartily cheered on 
quitting the beach. The officers remained to pack 
up the charts, drawings, and other documents, which 
were to be left at the fort ; and, in the event of none 
of the officers returning, Mr. Dease was directed to 
forward them to England. We quitted the house at 
half past ten, on Tuesday morning, leaving Cot6, 
the fisherman, in charge, until Mr. Dease should return 
from Fort Norman. This worthy old man, sharing 
the enthusiasm that animated the whole party, would 
not allow us to depart without giving his hearty, 
though solitary cheer, which we returned in full chorus. 



398 Thirty Years 



CHAPTER XV 



v ^; On our arrival at the Bear Lake River, we 
were mortified to find the ice drifting down in large 
masses, with such rapidity as to render embarkation 
unsafe. The same cause detained us the whole of 
the following day ; and as we had brought no more 
provision from the house than sufficient for an unin- 
terrupted passage to Fort Norman, we sent for a sup- 
ply of fish. This was a very sultry day, the thermom- 
eter in the shade being 71° at noon, and 74° at three 

P. M. 

The descent of the ice having ceased at eight in 
the morning of the 24th, we embarked. The heavy 
stores were put into a bateau, manned by Canadians, 
who were experienced in the passage through rapids, 
and the rest of the boats were ordered to follow in its 
wake, keeping at such a distance from each other as 
to allow of any evolution that might be necessary to 
avoid the stones. The boats struck several times, 
but received no injury. At the foot of the rapid we 



In the Arctic Regions. 899 

met a canoe, manned by four of our Canadian voya- 
gers, whom Dr. Kichardson had sent with some letters 
that had arrived at Fort Norman from the Athabasca 
Lake ; and as the services of the men were wanted, 
they were embarked in the boats, and the canoe was 
left. Shortly afterwards we overtook Beaulieu, who 
had just killed a young moose deer, which afforded the 
party two substantial meals. At this spot, and gen- 
erally along the river, we found abundance of wild 
onions. 

We entered the Mackenzie River at eight in the 
evening, and the current being too strong for us to 
advance against the stream with oars, we had recourse 
to the tracking line, and traveled all night. It was 
fatiguing, owing to large portions of the banks having 
been overthrown by the disruption of the ice, and 
from the ground being so soft that the men dragging 
the rope sank up to the knees at every step ; but 
these impediments were less regarded than the cease- 
less torment of the musquitoes. We halted to sup at 
the spot where Sir A. Mackenzie saw the flame rising 
from the bank in 1789. The precipice was still on 
fire, the smoke issuing through several apertures. 
Specimens of the coal were procured. 
S 25th ay We reached Fort Norman at noon on the 
25th. On the following morning the provision and 
stores which had been left at this place were exam- 



400 Thirty Years 



ined, and found to be in excellent order, except the 
powder in one of the magazines, which had become 
caked from damp. I had ordered a supply of iron- 
work, knives, and beads, for the sea voyage from Fort 
Simpson ; they had arrived some days before us, and 
with our stock thus augmented, we were well furnished 
with presents for the natives. The packages being 
finished on the 27th, the boats received their respec- 
tive ladings, and we were rejoiced to find that each 
stowed her cargo well, and with her crew embarked 
floated as buoyantly as our most sanguine wishes had 
anticipated. The heavy stores, however, were after- 
wards removed into a bateau that was to be taken to 
the mouth of the river, to prevent the smaller boats 
from receiving injury in passing over the shoals. 

We waited one day to make some pounded meat 
we had brought into pemmican. In the meantime 
the seamen enlarged the foresail of the Beliance. 

The letters which I received from the Athabasca 
department informed me that the things I had re- 
quired from the Company in February last, would be 
duly forwarded ; they likewise contained a very dif- 
ferent version of the story which had led us to suppose 
that Captain Parry was passing the winter on the 
northern coast. We now learned that the Indians 
had only seen some pieces of wood recently cut, and a 
deer that had been killed by an arrow ; these things 



In the Arctic Regions. 401 

we concluded were done by the Esquimaux. Three 
men from Slave Lake, whom I had sent for to supply 
the place of our Chipewyan hunters, who were very 
inactive last winter, joined us at this place. They 
were to accompany Mr. Dease and the Canadians to 
Fort Franklin ; and that they, as well as the Indians, 
might have every encouragement to exert themselves 
in procuring provision during the summer, I directed 
a supply of the goods they were likely to require, to 
be sent from Fort Simpson, as soon as possible. 
We Sth day Early this morning the boats were laden 
and decorated with their ensigns and pendants, and 
after breakfast we quitted the Fort, amidst the hearty 
cheers of our friends Mr. Dease, Mr. Brisbois, and the 
Canadians, and I am sure carried their best wishes for 
our success. We halted at noon to obtain the lati- 
tude, which placed the entrance of Bear Lake River 
in 64° 55 % 37" N. ; and Dr. Richardson took advan- 
tage of this delay to visit the mountain at that point, 
but his stay was short, in consequence of a favorable 
breeze springing up. We perceived that the four 
boats sailed at nearly an equal rate in light breezes, 
but that in strong winds the two larger ones had the 
advantage. When we landed to sup the musquitoes 
beset us so furiously that we hastily despatched the 
meal and re-embarked, to drive under easy sail before 
the current. They continued, however, to pursue us. 



402 Thirty Years 



and deprived us of all rest. On our arrival, next 
morning, at the place of the first rapids, there was 
scarcely any appearance of broken water, and the sand- 
bank on which Augustus had been so perilously situa- 
ted in the preceding autumn, was entirely covered. 
This was, of course, to be ascribed to the spring floods ; 
the increase of water to produce such a change, must 
have exceeded six feet. In the afternoon we were 
overtaken by a violent thunder-storm, with heavy 
rain, which made us apprehensive for the pemmican, 
that spoils on being wet. It unfortunately happened 
that a convenient place for spreading out the bags 
that were injured could not be found, until we reached 
the Hare- Skin Kiver, below the Rampart Defile, which 
was at nine o'clock. They were spread out the next 
morning, with the other perishable parts of the cargo, 
and we remained until they were dry. We embarked 
at ten, and, aided by a favorable breeze, made good 
progress until six p.m., when the threatening appear- 
ance of the clouds induced us to put on shore, and we 
had but just covered the baggage before heavy rain 
fell, that continued throughout the night. Four 
Hare Indians came to the encampment, to whom dried 
meat and ammunition were given, as they were in 
want of food from being unable to set their nets in 
the present high state of the water. These were the 
only natives seen since our departure from Fort Nor- 



In the Arctic Regions. 403 

roan ; they informed us, that, in consequence of not 
being able to procure a sufficiency of fish in the Mac- 
kenzie at this season, their companions had withdrawn 
to gain their subsistence from the small lakes in the 
interior. 

ist? We embarked at half-past one on the morning ot 
July. The sultry weather of the preceding day made 
us now feel more keenly the chill of a strong western 
breeze, and the mist which it brought on, about four 
hours after our departure. This wind, being contrary 
to the current, soon raised such high waves that the 
boats took in a great deal of water ; and as we made 
but little progress, and were very cold, we landed to 
kindle a fire, and prepare breakfast ; after which we 
continued the voyage to Fort Good Hope, without 
any of the interruptions from sand-banks that we had 
experienced in the autumn. 

On our arrival we were saluted with a discharge ot 
musketry by a large party of Loucheux, who had been 
some time waiting at the Fort, with their wives and 
families, for the purpose of seeing us. After a short 
conference with Mr. Bell, the master of the post, we 
were informed that these Indians had lately met a 
numerous party of Esquimaux at the Red River, by 
appointment, to purchase their furs ; and that in con- 
sequence of a misunderstanding respecting some bar- 
gain, a quarrel had ensued between them, which 



404 Thirty Years 

fortunately terminated without bloodshed. We could 
not, however, gain any satisfactory account of the 
movements of the Esquimaux. The only answers to 
our repeated questions on these points were, that the 
Esquimaux came in sixty canoes to Ked River, and 
that they supposed them to have gone down the 
eastern channel, for the purpose of fishing near its 
mouth. The chief, however, informed us that he had 
mentioned our coming to their lands this spring, and 
that they had received the intelligence without com- 
ment ; but from his not having alluded to this com- 
munication until the question was pressed upon him, 
and from the manner of his answering our inquiries, I 
thought it doubtful whether such a communication 
had really been made. 

We had been led to expect much information from 
the Loucheux respecting the channels of the river, and 
the coast on the east and west side near its mouth, but 
we were greatly disappointed. They were ignorant of 
the channel we ought to follow in order to arrive at 
the western mouth of the river ; and the only intelli- 
gence they gave us respecting the coast on that side 
was, that the Esquimaux represented it to be almost 
constantly beset by ice. They said also that they 
were unacquainted with the tribes who reside to the 
westward. Several of the party had been down the 
eastern channel, of which they made a rude sketch ; 



In the Arctic Regions. 405 

and their account of the coast on that side was, that, 
as far as they were acquainted with it, it was free from 
ice during the summer. 

Having ascertained that the Esquimaux were likely 
to be seen in greater numbers than had been at first 
imagined, I increased the stock of presents from the 
store at this place, and exchanged two of our guns, 
which were defective, that the party might have entire 
confidence in their arms. And to provide against the 
casualty of either or both branches of the Expedition 
having to return this way, I requested Mr. Bell to 
store up as much meat as he could during the summer. 
We learned from this gentleman that the supply of 
meat at this post was very precarious, and that had 
we not left the five bags of pemmican in the autumn, 
the residents would have been reduced to great distress 
for food during the winter. These bags were now re- 
placed. The arrangements being concluded, we spent 
the greater part of the night in writing to England. 
I addressed to the Colonial Secretary an account of 
our proceedings up to this time, and I felt happy to 
be able to state that we were equipped with every 
requisite for the Expedition. 

Sunday ^y e quitted Fort Good Hope at five on the 
2nd. In the passage down the river we were visited 
by several Loucheux, who, the instant we appeared, 
launched their canoes, and came off to welcome us. 



406 Thirty Teirs 



We landed, at their request, to purchase fish ; yet, 
after the bargain had been completed, an old woman 
stepped forward, and would only allow of our receiv- 
ing two fish : she maintained her point and carried off 
the rest in spite of all remonstrance. The natives 
were all clothed in new leathern dresses, and looked 
much neater, and in better health, than last autumn. 
Being anxious to reach the Ked River, we continued 
rowing against the wind until after midnight. On 
reaching that place, the ground proved too wet for us 
to encamp ; we, therefore, proceeded a short distance 
lower down, and put up under some sandstone* cliffs, 
where there was but just room for the tents. As we 
were now on the borders of the Esquimaux territory, 
we devoted the following morning to cleaning the 
arms ; and a gun, dagger, and ammunition, were is- 
sued to each person. We had no reason, indeed, to 
apprehend hostility from the Esquimaux, after the 
messages they had sent to Fort Franklin, but vigi- 
lance and precaution are never to be omitted in inter- 
course with strange tribes. 

M 3?d. ay Embarking at two in the afternoon of the 3rd, 
we soon entered the expansion of the river whence the 
different channels branch off, and steering along the 
western shore, we came to the head of a branch that 
flowed towards the Rocky Mountain range. Being 
anxious not to take the eastern detachment out of 



In the Arctic Beg ions. 40? 

their course, I immediately encamped tc make the 
necessary arrangements for the separation of the par- 
ties. The warm clothing, shoes, and articles for pre- 
sents, had been previously put up in separate packages, 
but the provisions remained to be divided, which was 
done in due proportion. Twenty-six bags of pemmi- 
can, and two of grease, were set apart for the Dolphin 
and Union, with a supply of arrow-root, macaroni, 
flour, and portable soup, making in all eighty days' 
provision, with an allowance for waste. The Lion 
and Keliance received thirty-two bags of pemmican, 
and two of grease, with sufficient arrow-root, &c, to 
make their supply proportionate to that of the eastern 
party. Provided no accident occurred, neither party 
could be in absolute want for the whole summer, be- 
cause at two-thirds allowance the pemmican could be 
made to ]ast one hundred days ; and we had reason 
to expect to meet with deer occasionally. In the even- 
ing I delivered my instructions to Dr. Kichardson. 

As the parties entertained for each other sentiments 
of true friendship and regard, it will easily be imagin- 
ed that the evening preceding our separation was 
spent in the most cordial and cheerful manner. We 
felt that we were only separating to be employed on 
services of equal interest ; and we looked forward with 
delight to our next meeting, when, after a successful 
termination, we might recount the incidents of our 



408 Thirty Years 



respective voyages. The best supper our means af- 
forded was provided, and a bowl of punch crowned 
the parting feast. 

We were joined by an elderly Loucheux, who gave 
us a better account of the eastern and western chan- 
nels than we had hitherto obtained. " The west 
branch," he said, " would take us to the sea, and flowed 
the whole way at no great distance from the mountains." 
" The eastern was a good channel, and passed close to 
the hills on that side." He further informed us that 
the Esquimaux were generally to be found on an island 
in the eastern channel, but were seldom seen in the 
western branch. He was, however, unacquainted with 
the coast, and we found afterwards that he knew little 
about the movements of the Esquimaux. 

T 4th day By si x m tne morning of the 4th the boats 
were all laden, and ready for departure. It was im- 
possible not to be struck with the difference between 
our present complete state of equipment and that on 
which we had embarked on our former disastrous voy- 
age. Instead of a frail bark canoe, and a scanty sup- 
ply of food, we were now about to commence the sea 
voyage in excellent boats, stored with three months' 
provision. At Dr. Richardson's desire the western 
party embarked first. He and his companions saluted 
us with three hearty cheers, which were warmly re- 
turned ; and as we were passing round the point that 



In the Arctic Regions. 409 

was to hide them from our view, we perceived them 
also embarking. Augustus was rather melancholy, as 
might have been expected, on his parting from Oolig- 
buck, to proceed he knew not whither ; but he recov- 
ered his wonted flow of spirits by the evening. 

Our course was directly towards the Kocky Moun- 
tain range, till we came near the low land that skirts 
its base ; where, following the deepest channel, we 
turned to the northward. I was desirous of coasting 
the main shore, but rinding some of the westernmost 
branches too shallow, we kept on the outside of three 
islands for about twelve miles, when we entered the 
channel that washes the west side of Simpson's Is- 
land. It was winding, and its breadth seldom exceed- 
ed a quarter of a mile. During our progress we oc- 
casionally caught a glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, 
which was an agreeable relief to the very dull picture 
that the muddy islands in our neighborhood afforded. 
We halted to breakfast just before noon, and observed 
the latitude 67° 51' N. 

In the afternoon one deer was seen, and many 
swans and geese ; we did not fire at them, for fear of 
alarming any Esquimaux that might be near. En- 
camped at eight p. m., opposite Simpson's Island. 
The boats were secured without discharging the car- 
goes, and two men were placed on guard, to be reliev- 
ed every two hours. 

18 



410 Thirty Years 



wed. y^ G set f orW ard at four a. m., with a favorable 
breeze, and made good progress, though the river was 
very winding. At eight we entered a branch that 
turned to the westward round the point of Halkett 
Island into the channel washing the main shore. We 
soon afterwards arrived at a spot where a large body 
of Esquimaux had be^n encamped in the spring, and 
supposing that they might revisit this place, a present 
of an ice-chisel, kettle, and knife, was hung up in a 
conspicuous situation. Boon after we had entered the 
channel that flows by the main shore, we first perceiv- 
ed lop-sticks, or pine trees, divested of their lower 
branches, for the purpose of land-marks, and there- 
fore concluded it was much frequented by the Esqui- 
maux. Our course was then altered to N. W., and 
we soon passed the last of the well wooded islands. 
The spruce fir-trees terminated in latitude 68° 36 J N. ; 
and dwarf willows only grew below this part. A very 
picturesque view was obtained of the Kocky Moun- 
tains, and we saw the entire outline of their peaked 
hills, table-land, and quoin-shaped terminations. Two 
lofty ranges were fronted by a lower line of round- 
backed hills, in which we perceived the strata to 
be horizontal, and the stone of a yellow color. A 
few miles lower down we found hills of sand close to 
the west border of the river. We passed several de- 
serted huts, ana in one spot saw many chips and 



In the Arctic Regions, 411 



pieces of split drift-wood, that appeared to have been 
recently cut. The channel varied in breadth from a 
half to three-quarters of a mile, but, except in the 
stream of the current, the water was so shallow as 
scarcely to float the boats, and its greatest depth did 
not exceed five feet. We landed at eight p. m , on 
Halkett Island, intending to encamp, but owing to 
the swampiness of the ground the tent could not be 
pitched. Having made a fire and cooked our supper, 
we retired to sleep under the coverings of the boats, 
which afforded us good shelter from a gale and heavy 
rain that came on before midnight. Latitude 68° 
39' K, longitude 135° 35' W. 

T 6th rs ' ^ ne continuance of stormy weather detained 
us until two p.m. of the 6th, when, the rain ceasing, 
we embarked. After passing through the expansion 
of the river near the west extreme of Halkett Island, 
we turned into the narrower and more winding chan- 
nel, between Colvill Island and the main. A fog 
coming on at eight p.m. we encamped. Several of the 
glaucous gulls were seen, and this circumstance, as 
well as a line of bright cloud to the N.W. resembling 
the ice-blink, convinced us that the sea was not far 
off. A rein-deer appearing near the encampment, two 
men were sent after it, who returned unsuccessful. 
Augustus obtained a goose for supper. Many geese, 
swans, and ducks, had been seen on the marshy shqres 
of the island in the course of the day. 



*12 Thirty Years 



F 7tL a/< The night was cold, and at day-light on the 
7th lbs thermometer indicated 36°. Embarking at 
four A.ff. we sailed down the river for two hours, when 
our progress was arrested by the shal]owness of the 
water. Having endeavored, without effect, to drag 
the boats over the flat, we remounted the stream to 
examine an opening to the westward, which we had 
passed. On reaching the opening we found the cur- 
rent setting through it into the Mackenzie, by which, 
we knew that it could not afford a passage to the sea, 
but we pulled up it a little way, in the hope of ob- 
taining a view over the surrounding low grounds from 
the top of an Esquimaux house which we saw before 
us. A low fog, which had prevailed all the morning, 
cleared away, and we discovered that the stream we 
had now ascended issued from a chain of lakes lying 
betwixt us and the western hills, which were about 
six miles distant, the whole intervening country be- 
tween the hills, and the Mackenzie being flat. 

After obtaining an observation for longitude in 136° 
19' W., and taking the bearing of several remarkable 
points of the Rocky Mountain range, we returned to 
the Mackenzie, and passing the shallows which had 
before impeded us, by taking only half the boats' car- 
goes over at a time, we came in sight of the mouth of 
the river. Whilst the crews were stowing the boats, 
I obtained an observation for latitude in GS° 53' N , 



In the Arctic Regions. 413 



and having: walked towards the mouth of the river 



discovered on an island, which formed the east side of 



the bay into which the river opened, a crowd of tents, 
with many Esquimaux strolling amongst them. I in- 
stantly hastened to the boats, to make preparations 
for opening a communication with them, agreeably to 
my instructions. A selection of articles for presents 
and trade being 1 made, the rest of the lading was close- 
ly covered up ; the arms were inspected, and every 
man was directed to keep his gun ready for immediate 
use. I had previously informed Lieutenant Back of 
my intention of opening the communication with the 
Esquimaux by landing amongst them, accompanied 
only by Augustus ; and I now instructed him to keep 
the boats afloat, and the crews with their arms ready 
to support us in the event of the natives proving hos- 
tile ; but on no account to fire until he was convinced 
that our safety could be secured in no other way. 
Having received an impression from the narratives of 
different navigators that the sacrifices of life which had 
occurred in their interviews with savages, had been 
generally occasioned by the crews mistaking noise and 
violent gestures for decided hostility, I thought it ne- 
cessary to explain my sentiments on this point to all 
the men, and peremptorily forbade their firing till I 
set the example, or till they were ordered to do so by 
Lieutenant Back. They were also forbidden to trade 



414 Thirty Years 



with the natives on any pretence, and were ordered to 
leave every thing of that kind to the officers. 

On quitting the channel of the river we entered into 
the bay, which was about six miles wide, with an un- 
bounded prospect to seaward, and steered towards the 
tents under easy sail, with the ensigns flying. The 
water became shallow as we drew towards the island, 
and the boats touched the ground when about a mile 
from the beach ; we shouted, and made signs to the 
Esquimaux to come off, and then pulled a short way 
back to await their arrival in deeper water. Three 
canoes instantly put off from the shore, and before 
they could reach us others were launched in such quick 
succession, that the whole space between the island 
and the boats was covered by them. The Esquimaux 
canoes contain only one person, and are named 
haiyacks ; but they have a kind of open boat capable 
of holding six or eight people, which is named oomiah. 
The men alone use the kaiyacks, and the oomiaks are 
allotted to the women and children. We endeavored 
to count their numbers as they approached, and had 
proceeded as far as seventy-three canoes, and five 
oomiaks, when the sea became so crowded by fresh 
arrivals, that we could advance no farther in our 
reckoning. The three headmost canoes were paddled 
hy elderly men, who, most probably, had been selected 
to open the communication. They advanced towards 



In the Arctic Regions. 415 

us with much caution, halting when just within 
speaking distance, until they had been assured of our 
friendship, and repeatedly invited by Augustus to ap- 
proach and receive the present which I offered to 
them. Augustus next explained to them in detail the 
purport of our visit, and told them that if we suc- 
ceeded in finding a navigable channel for large ships, 
a trade highly beneficial to them would be opened. 
They were delighted with this intelligence, and re- 
peated it to their countrymen, who testified their joy 
by tossing their hands aloft, and raising the most 
deafening shout of applause I ever heard. 

After the first present, I resolved to bestow no more 
gratuitously, but always to exact something, however 
small, in return ; the three elderly men readily offered 
the ornaments they wore in their cheeks, their arms, 
and knives, in exchange for the articles I gave them. 
Up to this time the first three were the only kaiyacks 
that had ventured near the boats, but the natives 
around us had now increased to .two hundred and fifty 
or three hundred persons, and they all became anxious 
to share in the lucrative trade which they saw estab- 
lished, and pressed eagerly upon us, offering for sale 
their bows, arrows, and spears, which they had hither- 
to kept concealed within their canoes. I endeavored 
in vain, amidst the clamor and bustle of trade, to ob- 
tain some information respecting the coast, but finding 



416 Thirty Years 



the natives becoming more and more importunate and 
troublesome, I determined to leave them, and, there- 
fore, directed the boats' heads to. be put to seaward. 
Notwithstanding the forwardness of the Esquimaux, 
>vhich we attributed solely to the desire of a rude 
people to obtain the novel articles they saw in our 
possession, they had hitherto shown no unfriendly 
disposition ; and when we told them of our intention 
of going to sea. they expressed no desire to detain us, 
but, on the contrary, when the Lion grounded in the 
act of turning, they assisted us in the kindest manne~ 
by dragging her round. This manoeuvre was not of 
much advantage to us, for, from the rapid ebbing of 
the tide, both boats lay aground ; and the Esquimaux 
told us, through the medium of Augustus, that the 
whole bay was alike flat, which we afterwards found 
to be correct. 

An accident happened at this time, which was 
productive of unforeseen and very annoying conse- 
quences. A kaiyack being overset by one of the 
Lion's oars, its owner was plunged into the water with 
his head in the mud, and apparently in danger of 
being drowned. We instantly extricated him from 
his unpleasant situation, and took him into the boat 
until the water could be thrown out of his kaiyack, 
and Augustus, seeing him shivering with cold, wrapped 
him up in his own great coat. At first he was ex- 



In the Arctic Regions. 417 

ceedingly angry, but soon became reconciled to his 
situation, and looking about, discovered that we had 
many bales, and other articles, in the boat, which had 
been concealed from the people in the kaiyacks, by the 
coverings being carefully spread over all. He soon 
began to ask for every thing he saw, and expressed 
much displeasure on our refusing to comply with his 
demands ; he also, as we afterwards learned, excited 
the cupidity of others by his account of the inex- 
haustible riches in the Lion, and several of the younger 
men endeavored to get into both our boats, but we 
resisted all their attempts. Though we had not 
hitherto observed any of them stealing, yet they 
showed so much desire to obtain my flag, that I had 
it furled and put out of sight, as well as every thing 
else that I thought could prove a temptation to them. 
They continued, however, to press upon us so closely, 
and made so many efforts to get into the boats, that I 
accepted the offer of two chiefs, who said that if they 
were allowed to come in, they would keep the others 
out. For a time they kept their word, and the crews 
took advantage of the respite thus afforded, to en- 
deavor to force the boats towards the river into def.per 
water. The Reliance floated, but the Lion was im- 
movable, and Lieutenant Back dropping astern again 
made his boat fast to the Lion by a rope. At this 

time one of the Lion's crew perceived that the man 

18* 



418 Thirty Yeurs 



whose kaiyack had been upset had a pistol under his 
shirt, and was about to take it from him, but I ordered 
him to desist, as I thought it might have been pur- 
chased from the Loucheux. It had been, in fact, 
stolen from Lieutenant Back, and the thief, perceiving 
our attention directed to it, leaped out of the boat, 
and joined his countrymen, carrying with him the 
great coat which Augustus had lent him. 

The water had now ebbed so far, that it was not 
knee-deep at the boats, and the younger men wading 
in crowds around us, tried to steal every thing within 
their reach ; slyly, however, and with so much dex- 
terity, as almost to escape detection. The moment 
this disposition was manifested, I directed the crews 
not to suffer any one to come alongside, and desired 
Augustus to tell the two chiefs, who still remained 
seated in the Lion, that the noise and confusion 
occasioned by the crowd around the boats greatly im- 
peded our exertions ; and that if they would go on 
shore and leave us for the present, we would hereafter 
return from the ship which we expected to meet near 
this part of the coast, with a more abundant supply 
of goods. They received this communication with 
much apparent satisfaction, and jumping out of the 
boats repeated the speech aloud to their companions. 
From the general exclamation of "teyma," which 
f jllowed, and from perceiving many of the elderly men 



In the Arctic Regions. 419 

retire to a distance, I conceived that they acquiesced 
in the propriety of the suggestion, and that they were 
going away, but I was much deceived. They only 
retired to concert a plan of attack, and returned in a 
short time shouting some words which Augustus 
could not make out. We soon, however, discovered 
their purport, by two of the three chiefs who were on 
board the Reliance, jumping out, and, with the others 
who hurried to their assistance, dragging her towards 
the south shor^ of the river. Lieutenant Back de- 
sired the chief who remained with him to tell them 
to desist, but he replied by pointing to the beach, and 
repeating the word teyma, teyma, with a good-natured 
smile. He said, however, something to those who 
were seated in the canoes that were alongside, on 
which they threw their long knives and arrows into 
the boat, taking care, in so doing, that the handles 
and feathered ends were turned towards the crew, as 
an indication of pacific intentions. 

As soon as I perceived the Reliance moving under 
the efforts of the natives, I directed the Lion's crew 
to endeavor to follow her, but our boat remained fast 
until the Esquimaux lent their aid, and dragged her 
after the Eeliance. Two of the most powerful men, 
jumping on board at the same time, seized me by the 
writs and forced me to sit between them ; and, as I 
shook them loose two or three times, a third Esqui- 



420 Thirty Years 



maux took his station in front to catch my arm when- 
ever I attempted to lift my gun, or the broad dagger 
which hung by my side. The whole way to the shore 
they kept repeating the word " teyma" beating gently 
on my left breast with their hands, and pressing mine 
against their breasts. As we neared the beach, two 
oomiaks, full of women, arrived, and the tl teymas" 
and vociferation were redoubled. The Reliance was 
first brought to the shore, and the Lion close to her a 
few seconds afterwards. The three men who held me 
now leaped ashore, and those who had remained in 
their canoes, taking them out of the water, carried 
them to a little distance. A numerous party then 
drawing their knives, and stripping themselves to the 
waist, ran to the Reliance, and having first hauled her 
as far up as they could, began a regular pillage, hand- 
ing the articles to the women, who, ranged in a row 
behind, quickly conveyed them out of sight. Lieu- 
tenant Back and his crew strenuously, but good- 
humoredly, resisted the attack, and rescued many 
things from their grasp; but they were overpowered by 
numbers, and had even some difficulty in preserving 
their arms. One fellow had the audacity to snatch 
Vivier's knife from his breast, and to cut the buttons 
from his coat, whilst three stout Esquimaux sur- 
rounded Lieutenant Back with uplifted daggers, and 
were incessant in their demands for whatever attracted 



In the Arctic Regions. 421 

their attention, especially for the anchor buttons which 
he wore on his waistcoat. In this juncture a young 
chief coming to his aid drove the assailants away. In 
their retreat they carried off a writing desk and cloak, 
which the chief rescued, and then seating himself on 
Lieutenant Back's knee, he endeavored to persuade his 
countrymen to desist by vociferating "teyma, teyma" 
and was, indeed, very active in saving whatever he 
could from their depredations. The Lion had hitherto 
been beset by smaller numbers, and her crew, by firmly 
keeping their seats on the cover spread over the 
cargo, and by beating the natives off with the butt 
ends of their muskets, had been able to prevent any 
article of importance from being carried away. But 
as soon as I perceived that the work of plunder was 
going on so actively in the Reliance, I went with Au- 
gustus to assist in repressing the tumult; and our 
bold and active little interpreter rushed among the 
crowd on shore, and harangued them on their treach- 
erous conduct, until he was actually hoarse. In a 
short time, however, I was summoned back by Dun- 
can, who called out to me that the Esquimaux had 
now commenced in earnest to plunder the Lion, and, 
on my return, I found the sides of the boat lined with 
.men as thick as they could stand, brandishing their 
knives in the most furious manner, and attempting to 
seize every thing that was movable ; whilst another 



422 Thirty Years 



party was ranged on the outside ready to bear away 
the stolen goods. The Lion's crew still kept their 
seats, but, as it was impossible for so small a number 
to keep off such a formidable and determined body 
several articles were carried off. Our principal object 
was to prevent the loss of the arms, oars, or masts, or 
any thing on which the continuance of the voyage, or 
our personal safety, depended. Many attempts were 
made to purloin the box containing the astronomical 
instruments, and Duncan, after thrice rescuing it from 
their hands, made it fast to his leg with a cord, deter- 
mined that they should drag him away also if they 
took it. 

In the whole of this unequal contest, the self-pos- 
session of our men was not more conspicuous than the 
coolness with which the Esquimaux received the heavy 
blows dealt to them with the butts of the muskets. 
But at length, irritated at being so often foiled in 
their attempts, several of them jumped on board and 
forcibly endeavored to take the daggers and shot-belts 
that were about the men's persons ; and I myself was 
engaged with three of them who were trying to disarm 
me. Lieutenant Back perceiving our situation, and 
fully appreciating my motives in not coming to ex- 
tremities, had the kindness to send to my assistance 
the young chief who had protected him, and who, on 
his arrival, drove my antagonists out of the boat. I 



In the Arctic Regions. 423 

then saw that, my crew were nearly overpowered in 
the fore part of the boat, and hastening to their aid, 
I fortunately arrived in time to prevent George Wil- 
son from discharging the contents of his musket into 
the body of an Esquimaux. He had received a pro- 
vocation of which I was ignorant until the next day, 
for the fellow had struck at him with a knife, and 
cut through his coat and waistcoat ; and it was only 
after the affray was over that I learned that Grustavus 
Aird, the bowman of the Lion, and three of the Re- 
liance's crew, had also narrowly escaped from being 
wounded, their clothes being cut by the blows made 
at them with knives. No sooner was the bow cleared 
of one set of marauders than another party commen- 
ced their operations at the stern. My gun was now 
the object of the struggle, which was beginning to as- 
sume a more serious complexion, when the whole of 
the Esquimaux suddenly fled, and hid themselves be- 
hind the drift timber and canoes on the beach. It 
appears that by the exertions of the crew, the Reliance 
was again afloat, and Lieutenant Back wisely judging 
that this was the proper moment for more active in- 
terference, directed his men to level their muskets, 
which had produced that sudden panic. The Lion 
happily floated soon after, and both were retiring from 
the beach, when the Esquimaux having recovered from 
their consternation, put their kaiyacks in the water, 



<24 Thirty Years 



and were preparing to follow us ; but 1 desired Au- 
gustus to say that I would shoot the first man whc 
came within range of our muskets, which prevented 
them. 

It was now about eight o'clock in the evening, and 
we had been engaged in this harassing contest for 
several hours, yet the only things of importance which 
they had carried off were the mess canteen and kettles, 
a tent, a bale containing blankets and shoes, one of 
the men's bags, and the jib-sails. The other articles 
they took could well be spared, and they would, in 
fact, have been distributed amongst them, had they 
remained quiet. The place to which the boats wero 
dragged is designated by the name of Pillage Point. 
I cannot sufficiently praise the fortitude and obedience 
of both the boats' crews in abstaining from the use of 
their arms. In the first instance I had been influenc- 
ed by the desire of preventing unnecessary bloodshed, 
and afterwards, when the critical situation of my 
party might have well warranted me in employing 
more decided means for their defence, I still endeavor- 
ed to temporize, being convinced that as long as the 
boats lay aground, and we were beset by such num- 
bers, armed with long knives, bows, arrows, and 
spears, we could not use fire-arms to advantage. The 
howling of the women, and the clamor of the men, 
proved the high excitement to which they had wrought 



In the Arctic Regions. 425 

themselves ; and I am still of opinion that, mingled 
as we were with them, the first blood we had shed 
would have been instantly revenged by the sacrifice of 
all our lives. 

But to resume the narrative of the voyage. The 
breeze became moderate and fair ; the sails were set, 
and we passed along the coast in a W. N. W. direc- 
tion, until eleven in the evening, when we halted on 
a low island, covered with drift wood, to repair the 
sails, and to put the boats in proper order for a sea 
voyage. The continuance and increase of the favor- 
able wind urged us to make all possible despatch, and 
S< Sh ay at three in the morning of the 9th again em- 
barking, we kept in three fathoms waters at the distance 
of two miles from the land. After sailing twelve 
miles, our progress was completely stopped by the ice 
adhering to the shore, and stretching beyond the lim- 
its of our view to seaward. We could not effect a 
landing until we had gone back some miles, as we had 
passed a sheet of ice which was fast to the shore ; 
but at length a convenient spot being found, the boats 
were hauled up on the beach. We quickly ascended 
to the top of the bank to look around, and from thence 
had the mortification to perceive that we had just ar- 
rived in time to witness the first rupture of the ice. 
The only lane of water in the direction of our course 
was that from which we had been forced to retreat : 



426 Thirty Years 



in every other part the sea appeared as firmly frozen 
as in winter ; and even close to our encampment the 
masses of ice were piled up to the height of thirty 
feet. Discouraging as was this prospect, we had the 
consolation to know that our store of provision was 
sufficiently ample to allow of a few days' detention. 

The coast in this part consists of black earth, un- 
mixed with stones of any kind, and its general eleva- 
tion is from sixty to eighty feet, though in some 
places it swells into hills of two hundred and fifty 
feet. A level plain, abounding in small lakes, extends 
from the top of these banks to the base of a line of 
hills which lie in front of the Eocky Mountains. The 
plain was clothed with grass and plants, then in flower, 
specimens of which were collected. We recognized in 
the nearest range of the Rocky Mountains, which I 
have named after my much-esteemed companion Dr. 
.Richardson, the Fitton and Cupola Mountains, which 
we had seen from Garry Island at the distance of 
sixty miles. Few patches of snow were visible on any 
part of the range. 

Having obtained observations for longitude and va- 
riation, we retired to bed about eight a. m., but had 
only just fallen asleep when we were roused by the 
men on guard calling out that a party of Esquimaux 
were close to the tents ; and, on going out, we found 
the whole of our party under arms. Three Esqui- 



In the Arctic Regions. 427 

maux had come upon us unawares, and in terror at 
seeing so many strangers, they were on the point of 
discharging their arrows, when Augustus's voice ar- 
rested them, and by explaining the purpose of our 
arrival, soon calmed their fears. Lieutenant Back 
and I having made each of them a present, and re- 
ceived in return some arrows, a very amicable confer- 
ence followed, which was managed by Augustus with 
equal tact and judgment. It was gratifying to ob- 
serve our visitors jumping for joy as he pointed out 
the advantages to be derived from an intercourse with 
the white people, to whom they were now introduced 
for the first time. We found that they belonged to a 
party whose tents were pitched about two miles from 
us ; and as they were very desirous that their friends 
might also enjoy the gratification of seeing us, they 
begged that Augustus would return with them to con- 
vey the invitation ; which request was granted at his 
desire. 

Before their departure, marks being set up on the 
beach one hundred and fifty yards in front of the tent, 
and twice that distance from the boats, they were in- 
formed that this was the nearest approach which any 
of their party would be permitted to make ; and that 
at this boundary only would gifts be made, and bar- 
ter carried on. Augustus was likewise desired to ex- 
plain to them the destructive power of our guns, and 



42S Thirty Years 



to assure them that every person would be shot who 
should pass the prescribed limit. This plan was 
adopted in all succeeding interviews with the Esqui- 
maux. After five hours' absence Augustus returned, 
accompanied by twenty men and two elderly women, 
who halted at the boundary. They had come without 
bows or arrows, by the desire of Augustus, and, fol- 
lowing his instruction, each gave Lieuteuant Back 
and myself a hearty shake of the hand. We made 
presents to every one of beads, fish-hooks, awls, and 
trinkets ; and that they might have entire confidence 
in the whole party, our men were furnished with beads, 
to present to them. The men were directed to advance 
singly, and in such a manner as to prevent the Es- 
quimaux from counting our number, unless they paid 
the greatest attention, which they were not likely to 
do while their minds were occupied by a succession of 
novelties. 

Our visitors were soon quite at ease, and we were 
preparing to question them respecting the coast, and 
the time of removal of the ice, when Augustus begged 
that he might put on his gayest dress, and his medals, 
before the conference began. This was the work of a 
few seconds ; but when he returned, surprise and de- 
light at his altered appearance, and numerous orna- 
ments so engaged their minds, that their attention 
ttuuld not be drawn to any other subject for the next 



In the Arctic Regions. 429 



half hour. "Ah," said an old man, taking up his 
medals, " these must have been made by such people 
as you have been describing, for none that we have 
seen could do any thing like it ;" then taking hold of 
his coat, he asked, " what kind of animal do these 
skins which you and the chiefs wear belong to ? 
We have none such in our country." The anchor 
buttons also excited their admiration. At length we 
managed to gain their attention, and were informed 
that, as soon as the wind should blow strong from the 
land, the ice might be expected to remove from the 
shore, so as to open a passage for boats, and that it 
would remain in the offing until the reappearance of 
the stars. " Further to the westward," they con- 
tinued, "the ice often adheres to the -land throughout 
the summer ; and when it does break away, it is car- 
ried but a short distance to seaward, and is brought back 
whenever a strong wind blows on the coast. If there 
be any channels in those parts, they are unsafe for 
boats, as the ice is continually tossing about. We 
wonder, therefore," they said, " that you are not pro- 
vided with sledges and dogs, as our men are, to travel 
along the land, when these interruptions occur." 
They concluded by warning us not to stay to the 
westward after the stars could be seen, because the 
winds would then blow strong from the sea, and pack 
the ice on the shore. On further inquiry we learned 



*3G Thirty Years 



that this party is usually employed, enuring the sum- 
mer, in catching whales and seals, in the vicinity of 
the Mackenzie, and that they seldom travel to the 
westward beyond a few days' journey. We were, 
therefore, not much distressed by intelligence which 
we supposed might have originated in exaggerated 
accounts received from others. In the evening Au- 
gustus returned with them to their tents, and two of 
the men undertook to fetch a specimen of the rock 
from Mount Fitton, which was distant about twenty 
miles. 

The party assembled at divine service in the even- 
ing. The wind blew in violent squalls during the 
night, which brought such a heavy swell upon the ice, 
that the larger masses near the encampment were 
broken before the morning of the 10th, but there was 
no change in the main body. 

M iothf y ' ^ ne Esquimaux revisited us in the morning, 
with their women and children ; the party consisted 
of forty-eight persons. They seated themselves as be- 
fore, in a semicircle, the men being in front, and the 
women behind. Presents were made to those who 
'had not before received any ; and we afterwards pur- 
chased several pairs of seal-skin boots, a few pieces of 
i dressed seal-skin, and some deer-skin cut and twisted, 
to be used as cords. Beads, pins, needles and orna- 
mental articles, were most in request by the women, 



In the Arctic Regions. 431 

to whom the goods principally belonged, but the men 
were eager to get any thing that was made of iron. 
They were supplied with hatchets, files, ice chisels, 
fire-steels, Indian awls, and fish-hooks. They were 
very anxious to procure knives, but as each was in pos- 
session of one, I reserved the few which we had for 
another occasion. The quarter from whence these 
knives were obtained, will appear in a subsequent part 
of the narrative. It was amusing to see the purposes 
to which they applied the different articles given to 
them ; some of the men danced about with a large 
cod-fish hook dangling from the nose, others stuck an 
awl through the same part, and the women immedi- 
ately decorated their dresses with the ear-rings, thim- 
bles, or whatever trinkets they received. There was 
in the party a great proportion of elderly persons, who 
appeared in excellent health, and were very active. 
The men were stout and robust, and taller than Au- 
gustus, or than those seen on the east coast by Cap- 
tain Parry. Their cheek-bones were less projecting 
than the representations given of the Esquimaux on 
the eastern coast, but they had the small eye, and 
broad nose, which ever distinguish that people. Ex- 
cept the young persons, the whole party were afflicted 
with sore eyes, arising from exposure to the glare of 
ice and snow, and two of the old men were nearly 
blind. They wore the hair on the upper lip and chin ; 



432 Thirty Years 



the latter, as well as that on their head, being per- 
mitted to grow long, though in some cases a circular 
spot on the crown of the head was cut bare, like the 
tonsure of the Roman catholic clergy. Every man 
had pieces of bone or shells thrust through the sep- 
tum of his nose ; and holes were pierced on each side 
of the under lip, in which were placed circular pieces 
of ivory, with a large blue bead in the centre, similar 
to those represented in the drawings of the natives on 
the N.W. coast of America, in Kotzebue's Voyage. 
These ornaments were so much valued, that they de- 
clined selling them ; and when not rich enough to pro- 
cure beads or ivory, stones and pieces of bone were 
substituted. These perforations are made at the age 
of puberty ; and one of the party, who appeared to be 
about fourteen years old, was pointed out, with de- 
light, by his parents, as having to undergo the opera- 
tion in the following year. He was a good-looking 
boy, and we could not fancy his countenance would 
be much improved by the insertion of the bones or 
stones, which have the effect of depressing the under 
lip, and keeping the mouth open. 

Their dress consisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin, 
with a skirt behind and before, and a small hood ; 
breeches of the same material, and boots of seai-skiu. 
Their weapons for the chase were bows and arrows, 
very neatly made ; the latter being headed with bone 



In the Arctic Regions. 433 

or iron ; and for fishing, spears tipped with hone. 
They also catch fish with nets and lines. All were 
armed with knives, which they either keep in their 
hand, or thrust up the sleeve of their shirt. They 
had received from the Loucheux Indians some account 
of the destructive effects of guns. The dress of the 
women differed from. that of the men only in their 
wearing wide trowsers, and in the size of their hoods, 
which do not fit close to the head, hut are made large. 
for the purpose of receiving their children. These 
are ornamented with stripes of different colored skins. 
and round the top is fastened a band of wolfs hair, 
made to stand erect. Their own black hair is very 
tastefully turned up from behind to the top of the 
head, and tied by strings of white and blue beads, or 
cords of white deerskin. It is divided in front, so as 
to form on each side a thick tail, to which are append- 
ed strings of beads that reach to the waist. The 
women were from four feet and a half to four and 
three-quarters high, and generally fat. Some of the 
younger females, and the children, were pretty. The 
lady whose portrait adorns this work, was mightily 
pleased at being selected by Lieutenant Back for his 
sketch, and testified her joy by smiles and many jumps. 
The men, when sitting for their portraits, were more 
sedate, though not less pleased, than the females ; 

some of them remarked that they were not handsome 

19 



434 Thirty Years 



enough to be taken to our country. It will be seen 
from the engraving, that one of the men had a differ- 
ent cast of countenance from the rest ; we supposed 
him to be descended from the Indians. 

It would appear that the walrus, does not visit this 
part of the coast, as none of these people recognized a 
sketch of one, which Lieutenant Back drew ; but 
they at once knew the seal and reindeer. We learned 
that the polar bear is seldom seen, and only in the 
autumn ; and likewise that there are very few of the 
brown bears, which we frequently saw on the coast 
eastward of the Copper-Mine River. We had already 
seen a few white whales, and we understood that they 
would resort to this part of the coast in greater num- 
bers with the following moon. 

The habits of 'these people were similar, in every 
respect, to those of the tribes described by Captain 
Parry, and their' dialect differed so little from that 
used by Augustus, that he had no difficulty in under- 
standing them. He was, therefore, able to give them 
full particulars relative to the attack made by the 
other party, and they expressed themselves much hurt 
at their treacherous conduct. " Those are bad men/' 
they said, " and never fail either to quarrel with us, 
or steal from us, when we meet. They come, every 
spring, fiom the eastern side of the Mackenzie, to fish 
at the place where you saw them, and return as soon 



In the Arctic Regions 435 

as the ice opens. They are distinguished from us, 
who lire to the westward of the river, by the men 
being tattoed across the face. Among our tribes the 
women only are tattoed ;" having five or six blue lines 
drawn perpendicularly from the under lip to the chin. 
The speaker added, " If you are obliged to return by 
this way, before these people remove, we, with a re- 
inforcement of young men, will be in the vicinity, and 
will willingly accompany you to assist in repelling any 
attack." Augustus returned with the Esquimaux to 
their tents, as there was not the least prospect of our 
getting forward, though the ice was somewhat broken. 
Tuesdav, j± strong breeze from the westward during 
the night, contributed, with the swell, to the further 
reduction of the ice, in front of the encampment ; and 
on the morning of the 11th, the wind changed to the 
eastward, and removed the pieces a little way offshore, 
though they were tossing too violently for the boats 
to proceed. The swell having subsided in the after- 
noon, we embarked ; but at the end of a mile and a 
half were forced to land again, from the ice being fixed 
to the shore ; and as the wind had now become strong, 
and was driving the loose pieces on the land the boats 
were unloaded and landed on the beach. From the 
summit of an adjoining hill we perceived an unbroken 
field of ice to the west, and consequently, a barrier to 
our progress 



436 Thirty Years 



We encamped on the spot which our Esquimaux 
friends had left in the morning, to remove in their 
oomiaks and kaiyacks towards the Mackenzie, where 
they could set their fishing nets, and catch whales and 
seals. One of them showed his honesty, by returning 
some arrows, and a piece of a pemmican bag, that we 
had left at our last resting-place. The men also 
joined us here with specimens of rock from Mount 
Fitton. 

The Esquimaux winter residences at this spot were 
constructed of drift timber, with the roots of the 
trees upwards, and contained from one to three small 
apartments, beside a cellar for their stores. There 
were generally two entrances, north and south, so low 
as to make it necessary to crawl through them. The 
only other aperture was a hole at the top for the 
smoke, which, as well as the doorways, could be filled 
up with a block of snow at pleasure. When covered 
with snow, and with lamps or fire burning within, 
these habitations must be extremely warm, though to 
our ideas rather comfortless. Lofty stages were erect- 
ed near them for the purpose of receiving their canoes 
and bulky articles. The annexed engraving from 
Lieutenant Back's sketch of these habitations, ren- 
ders further description unnecessary. A ncrth-east 
gale came on in the evening, and rolled such a heavy 
surf on the beach, that twice, during the night, wa 



In the Arctic Begions. 437 

were obliged to drag the boats and cargoes higher up. 
^St About three the next morning a heavy rain 
commenced, and continued, without intermission, 
through the day ; at which we were delighted, how- 
ever comfortless it made our situation, because we 
saw the ice gradually loosening from the land under 
its effects. We found the keeping a tide-pole fixed 
in the loose gravel beach impracticable here, as well 
as at the last resting-place, on account of the swell. 
It appeared to be high water this morning at half 
past one A. M., and that the rise of tide was about 
two feet. I need hardly observe that we had the sun 
constantly above the horizon, were it not for the pur- 
pose of mentioning the amusing mistakes which the 
men made as to the hour. In fact, when not employ- 
ed, a question as to the time of day never failed to 
puzzle them, except about midnight, when the sun 
was near the northern horizon. 

Lieutenant Back missing the protractor which he 
used for laying down his bearings on the map, Augus- 
tus set off in the rain early this forenoon to recover 
it from an Esquimaux woman, whom he had seen pick 
it up. The rain ceased in the afternoon, the wind 
gradually abated, and by eight in the evening it was 
calm. A south wind followed, which opened a pas- 
sage for the boat, but Augustus was not in Sight. Ab 
midnight we became greatly alarmed for his safety, 



438 Thirty Years 



having now found that he had taken his gun, which 
we supposed the natives might have endeavored to 
wrest from him, and we were on the point of despatch- 
ing a party in search of him, when he arrived at four 
^Sf* in the morning of the 13th much fatigued, ac- 
companied by three of the natives. His journey had 
been lengthened by the Esquimaux having gone far- 
ther to the eastward than he had expected, but he had 
recovered the protractor, which had been kept in their 
ignorance of its utility to us. His companions 
brought five white fish, and some specimens of crystal 
with other stones, from the mountains, which we pur- 
chased, and further rewarded them for their kindness 
in not allowing Augustus to return alone. 

The boats were immediately launched, and having 
pulled a short distance from the land, we set the sails, 
our course being directed to the outer point in view, 
to avoid the sinuosities of the' coast. We passed a 
wide, though not deep bay, whose points were named 
after my friends Captains Sabine and P. P. King ; 
and we were drawing near the next projection, when a 
compact body of ice was discovered, which was joined 
to the land ahead. At the same time a dense fog 
came on, that confined our view to a few yards ; it 
was accompanied by a gale from the land, and heavy 
rain. We had still hopes of getting round the point, 
and approached the shore in that expectation, but 



In the Arctic Regions. 439 

found the ice so closely packed that we could neither 
advance nor effect a landing. We, therefore, pulled 
to seaward, and turned the boat's head to the east- 
ward, to trace the outer border of the ice. In this 
situation we were exposed to great danger from the 
sudden change of wind to S. E., which raised a heavy 
swell, and brought down upon us masses of ice of a 
size that, tossed as they were by the waves, would 
have injured a ship. We could only catch occasional 
glimpses of the land through the fog, and were kept 
in the most anxious suspense, pulling in and out be- 
tween the floating masses of ice, for five hours, before 
we could get near the shore. We landed a little to 
the west of Point Sabine, and only found suffi- 
cient space for the boats and tents between the 
bank and the water. The rain ceased for a short 
time in" the evening, and, during this interval, we per- 
ceived, from the top of the bank, that the whole space 
between us and the distant point, as well as the chan- 
nel by which we had advanced to the westward, were 
now completely blocked ; so that we had good reason 
to congratulate ourselves on having reached the shore 
in safety. 



440 , Thirty Years 



CHAPTEE XVI 



jSJwtii. Although it rained heavily during the night, 
and the wind blew strong off the land for some hours, 
there was no other change in the state of the ice on 
the morning of the 14th, than that the smaller pieces 
were driven a short way from the beach. The day 
was foggy and rainy, but the evening fine. The bank 
under which we were encamped is of the same earthy 
kind as that described on the 9th, but rather higher 
and steeper. It contains much wood-coal, similar to 
that found in the Mackenzie River, and at Garry's Is- 
land. The beach and the beds of the rivulets that 
flow through the ravines, consist of coarse gravel. 
Specimens of its stones, of the coal, and of the plants 
in flower, were added to the collection. We saw two 
marmots, and two reindeer, which were too wary to 
allow of our getting within shot of them. Between 
noon and ten p.m., the loose ice was driving in front of 
the encampment from the N.W. to S.E., &nd at the 



In the Arctic Regions. 441 

latter hour it stopped. We could not detect any dif- 
ference in the height of the water, and there was a 
calm the whole time. A light breeze from S.E. after 
midnight, brought the masses close to the beach. On 
the morning of the 15th, having perceived that the 
ice was loosened from the land near the outer point, to 
which I have given the name of Kay, after some 
much-esteemed relatives, we embarked, and in the 
course of a few hours succeeded in reaching it, by 
passing between the grounded masses of ice. On 
landing at Point Kay, we observed that our progress 
must again be stopped by a compact body of ice that 
was fast to the shore of a deep bay, and extended to 
our utmost view seaward ; and that we could not ad- 
vance farther than the mouth of a river which dis- 
charged its waters just round the point. The boats 
were, therefore, pulled to its entrance, and we en- 
camped. Former checks had taught us to be patient, 
and we, therefore, commenced such employments as 
would best serve to beguile the time, consoling our- 
selves with the hope that a strong breeze would soon 
spring up from the land and open a passage. Astro- 
nomical observations were obtained, the map carried 
on, and Lieutenant Back sketched the beautiful scen- 
ery afforded by a view of the Rocky Mountains, while 
I was employed in collecting specimens of the plants 
in flower. The men amused themselves in various 



442 Thirty Years 



ways, and Augustus went to visit an Esquimaux 
family that were on an island contiguous to our en- 
campment. 

We now discovered that the Rocky Mountains do 
not form a continuous chain, but that they run in de- 
tached ranges at unequal distances from the coast. 
The Richardson chain commencing opposite the mouth 
of the Mackenzie, terminates within view of our pres- 
ent situation. Another range, which I have named 
in honor of Professor Buckland, begins on the west- 
ern side of Phillips Bay, and extending to the bound- 
ary of our view, is terminated by the Conybeare 
Mountain. 

It gave me great pleasure to affix the name of my 
friend Mr. Babbage to the river we had discovered, 
and that of Mr. Phillips, Professor of Painting at the 
Royal Academy, to the bay into which its waters are 
emptied. We learned from the Esquimaux that this 
river, which they call Cook-Keaktok, or Rocky River, 
descends from a very distant part of the interior, 
though they are unacquainted with its course beyond 
the mountains. It appeared to us to flow between 
the Cupola and Barn mountains of the Richardson 
chain. There are many banks of gravel near its 
mouth, but above these obstructions the channel ap- 
peared deep, and to be about two miles broad. There 
were no rocks in situ, or large stones, near the en- 



In the ^Arctic Regions. m 443 

campment ; the rolled pebbles on the beach were 
sandstone of red and light-brown colors, greenstone, 
and slaty limestone. We gathered a fine specimen 
of tertiary pitch-coal. 

Augustus returned in the evening with a young 
Esquimaux and his wife, the only residents at the 
house he had visited. They had now quite recovered 
the panic into which they had been thrown on our 
first appearance, which was heightened by their being 
unable to escape from us owing to the want of a canoe. 
We made them happy by purchasing the fish they 
brought, and giving them a few presents ; they con- 
tinued to skip and laugh as long as they staid. The 
man informed us that judging from the rapid decay 
of the ice in the few preceding days, we might soon 
expect it to break from the land, so as to allow of 
our reaching Herschel Island, which was in view ; but 
he represented the coast to the westward of the island 
as being low, and so generally beset with ice, that he 
was of opinion we should have great difficulty in get- 
ting along. This couple had been left here to collect 
fish for the use of their companions, who were to re- 
join them for the purpose of killing whales, as soon 
as the ice should break up ; and they told us the 
black whales would soon come after its rupture took 
place. It would be interesting to ascertain where 
the whales retire in the winter, as they require to in- 



444 . Thirty Years 



hale the air frequently. Those of the white kind 
make their appearance when there are but small spaces 
of open water ; and we afterwards saw two black 
whales in a similar situation. One might also infer 
from these circumstances that they do not remove very 
far. Is it probable that they go, at the close of the 
autumn, to a warmer climate ? or can the sea be less 
closely covered with ice in the high northern latitudes ? 
The situation of our encampment was observed to be, 
latitude 69° 19' N. ; longitude 138° 10|' W. ; varia- 
tion 46° 16' E. ; and a rise and fall of nine inches in 
the water. The wind blew from the west during the 
night, and drove much ice near the boats ; but as the 
masses took ground a little way from the shore, we 
were spared the trouble of removing the boats higher 
Up the beach. 

Su itith. y ' W e were favored in the forenoon of the 16th, 
by a strong breeze from the land, which, in the course 
of a few hours, drove away many of these pieces to- 
wards Point Kay, and opened a passage for boats. 
We immediately embarked to sail over to the western 
side of Phillips Bay, concluding, from the motion of 
the ice, that it must now be detached from that shore. 
On reaching it, we had the pleasure of rinding an open 
channel close to the beach, although the entrance was 
barred by a stream of ice lying aground on a reef. 
The boats being forced by poles over this obstruction, 



In the Arctic Begions. 445 

we stood under sail along the coast to about five miles 
beyond Point Stokes ; but there we were again com- 
pelled by the closeness of the ice to stop, and from the 
top of a sand-hill we could not discover any water in 
the direction of our course. The teuts were therefore 
pitched, and the boats unloaded, and hauled on the 
beach. Heavy rain came on in the evening, by which 
we indulged the hope that the ice might be loosened. 
We were encamped on a low bank of gravel which 
runs along the base of a chain of sand-hills about one 
hundred and fifty feet high, and forms the coast line. 
The bank was covered with drift timber, and is the 
site of a deserted Esquimaux village. The snow still 
remaining in the ravines was tinged with light red 
spots. The night was calm, and the ice remained in 
the same fixed state until six in the morning of the 
17th, when, perceiving the pieces in the offing to be 
in motion we launched the boats, and by breaking our 
way at first with hatchets, and then forcing with the 
poles through other streams of ice, we contrived to 
reach some lanes of water, along which we navigated 
for four hours. A strong breeze springing up from 
seaward, caused the ice to close so fast upon the boat, 
that we were obliged to put again to the shore, and 
land on a low bank, similar to that on which we had 
rested the night before. It was intersected, however, 
by many pools and channels of water, which cut Dff 



446 Thirty Years 



our communication with the land. As we could not 
obtain, from our present station, any satisfactory view 
of the state of the ice to the westward, I despatched 
Duncan and Augustus to take a survey of it from 
Point Catton, while Lieutenant Back and I made 
some astronomical observations. They returned after 
an absence of two hours, and reported that there was 
water near Herschel Island, and a channel in the 
offing that appeared to lead to it. We, therefore, 
embarked ; and by pushing the boats between the 
masses that lay aground, for some distance, we suc- 
ceeded in reaching open water at the entrance of the 
strait which lies between the island and the main, and 
through which the loose pieces of ice were driving fast 
to the westward. Having now the benefit of a strong 
favorable breeze, we were enabled to keep clear of 
them, and made good progress. Arriving opposite 
the S. E. end of Herschel Island, we perceived a large 
herd of reindeer just taking the water, and on ap- 
proaching the shore to get within shot, discovered 
three Esquimaux in pursuit. These men stood gazing 
at the boats for some minutes, and after a short con- 
sultation, we observed them to change the heads of 
their arrows, and prepare their bows. They then 
walked along the south shore, parallel to our course, 
for the purpose, as we soon found, of rejoining their 
wives We reached the place at which the ladies 



In the Arctic Regions. 447 



were before them, and though invited to land, we were 
not able, on account of the surf. Augustus was 
desired to assure them of our friendship, and of our 
intention to stop at the first sheltered spot, to which 
they and their husbands might come to receive a pre- 
sent. More than this our little friend could not be 
prevailed upon to communicate, because they were 
" old wives ;'-' and it was evident that he considered 
any further conversation with women to be beneath 
his dignity. On passing round the point we discovered 
that the ice was closely packed to leeward, and such 
a heavy swell setting upon it, that it was unsafe to 
proceed. We, therefore, encamped, and Augustus 
set off immediately to introduce himself to the Esqui- 
maux. The tents were scarcely pitched, and the 
sentinels placed, before he returned, accompanied by 
twelve men and women, each bringing a piece of dried 
meat, or fish, to present to us. We learned from 
them that the boats, when at a distance, had been 
taken for pieces of ice ; but when we drew near 
enough for them to distinguish the crews, and they 
perceived them clothed differently from any men they 
had seen, they became alarmed, and made ready their 
arrows, as we had observed. On receiving some pre • 
sents, they raised a loud halloo, which brought five or 
six others from an adjoining island, and in the evening 
there was a further addition to the party of some 



448 Thirty Yeurs 



young men, who had been hunting, and who after- 
wards sent their wives to bring us a part of the spoils 
of their chase. They remained near the tents the 
greater part of the night, and testified their delight by 
dancing and singing. An old woman, whose hair was 
silvered by age, made a prominent figure in these 
exhibitions. 

The information we obtained from them confirmed 
that which we had received from the last party, name- 
ly, that they procure the iron, knives, and beads, 
M i?th! y through two channels, but principally from a 
party of Esquimaux who reside a great distance to 
the westward, and to meet whom they send their 
young men every spring with furs, seal-skins, and oil, 
to exchange for those articles ; and also from the In- 
dians who come every year from the interior to trade 
with them by a river that was directly opposite our 
encampment ; which I have, therefore, named the 
Mountain Indian Eiver. These Indians leave their 
families and canoes at two days' march from the mouth 
of the river, and the men come alone, bringing no 
more goods than they intend to barter. They were 
represented to be tall stout men, clothed in deer-skins, 
and speaking a language very dissimilar to their own. 
They also said that the Esquimaux to the westward, 
speak a dialect so different from tneirs, that at the 
first opening of the communication, which was so re- 



In the Arctic Regions. 449 

cent as to be within the memory of two of our present 
companions, they had great difficulty in understanding 
them. Several quarrels took place at their first meet- 
ings, in consequence of the western party attempting 
to steal ; but latterly there has been a good under- 
standing between them, and the exchanges have been 
fairly made. 

Our visitors did not know from what people either 
the Indians or the Esquimaux obtained the goods, 
but they supposed from some " Kabloonacht," (white 
people,) who reside far to the west. As the articles 
we saw were not of British manufacture, and wer< 
very unlike those sold by the Hudson's Bay Company 
to the Indians, it cannot be doubted that they are 
furnished by the Kussian Fur Traders, who receive in 
return for them all the furs collected on this northern 
coast. Part of the Eussian iron- work is conveyed to 
the Esquimaux dwelling on the coast east of the 
Mackenzie. The western Esquimaux use tobacco, 
and some of our visitors had smoked it, but thought 
the flavor very disagreeable. Until I was aware of 
their being acquainted with the use of it, I prohibited 
my men from smoking in their presence, and after- 
wards from offering their pipes to the Esquimaux at 
any time. At the conclusion of this conference, our 
visitors assured us, that having now become acquaint- 
ed with white people, and being conscious that the 



450 Thirty Years 



trade with them would be beneficial, they would gladly 
encourage a further intercourse, and do all in their 
power to prevent future visitors from having such a 
reception as we had on our arrival in these seas. We 
learned that this island, which has been distinguished 
by the name of Herschel, is much frequented by the 
natives at this season of the year, as it abounds with 
deer, and its surrounding waters afford plenty of fish. 
It is composed of black earth, rises, in its highest 
point, to about one hundred feet, and at the time of 
our visit was covered with verdure. The straight be- 
tween it and the main shore, is the only place that 
we had seenj since quitting the Mackenzie, in which a 
ship could find shelter ; but even this channel is much 
interrupted by shoals. 

T isth ay On the morning of the 18th the fog was so 
thick that we could not see beyond the beach. It 
dispersed about noon, and we discovered that there 
was a channel of open water near the main shore, 
though in the centre of the strait the ice was heavy, 
and driving rapidly to the north-west. We embarked 
at once, in the expectation of being able to penetrate 
between the drift ice and the land, but the attempt 
was frustrated by the shallowness of the water ; and 
the fog again spreading as thick as before, we landed 
on a sand-bank. We were soon visited by another 
party of the Esquimaux, who brought deer's meat for 



In the Arctic Regions. 451 

sale ; and although the whole quantity did not 
amount to a deer, we had to purchase it in small 
pieces. This practice of dividing the meat among 
the party, we found to prevail throughout the voy- 
age ; and they avowed as their reason for it, the de- 
sire that every one might obtain a share of the good 
things we distributed. One of the men drew on the 
sand a sketch of the coast to the westward, as far as 
he was acquainted with it ; from which it appeared 
that there was a line of reefs in front of the coast the 
whole way ; the water being deep on the outside of 
them, but on the inside too shallow even for their 
oomiacks to float. We subsequently found that his 
knowledge of the coast did not extend beyond a few 
days' march. 

The atmosphere becoming more clear about two 
p. m., we again embarked, and endeavored to get to 
seaward. The boats, however, soon grounded ; and 
finding all our attempts to push through any of the 
channels between the reefs ineffectual, we pulled back 
close to Herschel Island. Following, then, the course 
of the drift ice, we passed near to its south-west 
point, which was found to be the only deep passage 
through the strait. We afterwards entered into a 
fine sheet of open water, the main body of the ice 
being about half a mile to seaward, and only a few 
bergs lying aground in the direction of our course. 



452 Thirty Years 



The outer parts of the island appeared closely beset 
with ice. At the end of five miles we discerned 
another large party of Esquimaux, encamped on a 
reef; they waved their jackets as signals for us to 
land, which we declined doing, as we perceived the 
water to be shallow between us and them. They ran 
along the beech as far as the end of the reef, tempting 
us by holding up meat. Only two of the party were 
provided with canoes, and they followed us to a bluff 
point of the main shore, on which we landed. These 
proved to be persons whom we had seen at Herschel 
Island, and who had visited the Esquimaux in this 
quarter on purpose to make them acquainted with our 
arrival. We were happy to learn from them that we 
should not see any more of their countrymen for some 
time, because, while surrounded by them, the necessity 
of closely watching their motions, prevented us from 
paying due attention to other objects. Eesuming our 
voyage, we pulled along the outer border of a gravel 
reef, about two hundred yards broad, that runs paral- 
lel to, and about half a mile from, the coast, having a 
line of drift ice on the outside of us. The wind being 
contrary, and the evening cold, temperature 40°, we 
encamped on the reef at eight p. m., where we found 
plenty of drift timber ; the water was brackish. The 
distance traveled this day was eight miles and a half. 
The main shore opposite the encampment was low to 



In the Arctic Regions. 453 



a great distance from the coast ; it then appeared to 
ascend gradually to the base of the Buckland chain of 
mountains. 

Ygth. The following morning being calm, and very 
fine, the boats were launched at three A. M., and we 
set off in high spirits ; but after pulling three miles, 
we perceived the channel of open water becoming 
narrow, and the pieces of ice heavier than any we had 
before seen, some of them being aground in three 
fathoms water. At six A. m., after having gone five 
miles and a half, we were stopped by the ice which 
adhered to the reef, and was unbroken to seaward. 
Imagining we saw water at some distance beyond this 
barrier, we were induced to drag the boats across the 
reef, and launch them into the channel on the inside, 
in the hope of reaching it. This proved to be a bay, 
at the head of which we arrived in a short time. It 
was then discovered that a fog hanging over the ice 
had been mistaken for water. The boats were, there- 
fore, reconveyed across the reef, the tents pitched, 
and we had to draw largely on our nearly exhausted 
stock of patience, as we contemplated the dreary view 
of this compact icy field. A herd of rein-deer appear- 
ed very opportunely to afford some employment, and 
most of the men were despatched on the chase, but 
only one was successful. The following observations 
were obtained :— Latitude 69° 36' N. ; longitude 139° 



454 Thirty Years 



42' W. Being now abreast of Mount Conybeare, 
Lieutenant Back and I were on the point of setting 
out to visit its summit, when we were stopped by a 
very dense fog that accompanied a fresh breeze from 
the N. W., followed by heavy rain. The weather 
continued bad, until ten the following morning ; the 
ice near the beach was broken into smaller pieces, but 
as yet too closely packed for our proceeding. The 
water being brackish in front of the reef, we despatch- 
ed two men to bring some from the pools at a distance 
inland, which was found to have the same taste ; 
from this circumstance, as well as from the piles of 
drift wood, thrown up far from the coast, one may in- 
fer that the sea occasionally washes over this low 
shore. The ice broken off from large masses, and per- 
mitted to drain before it was melted, did not furnish 
us with better water. A couple of pin-tailed ducks 
were shot, the only pair seen ; the black kind were 
more numerous, but were not tired at, as they are 
fishing ducks, and, therefore, not good to eat. We 
also saw a few geese and swans. 

F 2ist ay ^ ne atmosphere was calm, and perfectly clear, 
on the morning of the 2 Lst ; and as there was not any 
change in the position of the ice, I visited Mount 
Conybeare, accompanied by Duncan and Stewart. 
Though its distance was not more than twelve miles 
from the coast, the journey proved to be very fatigu • 



In the Arctic Regionn. 455 



ing, owing to the swampiness of the ground between 
the mountain and the sea. We had also the discom- 
fort of being tormented the whole way by myriads of 
musquitoes. The plain was intersected by a winding 
river, about forty yards broad, which we forded, and 
on its western side found a thicket of willows, none 
of which were above seven inches in circumference, 
and only five or six feet high. At the foot of the 
mountain were three parallel platforms or terraces, 
whose heights we estimated at fifty, eighty, and one 
hundred and thirty feet ; composed of transition slate, 
the stone of the lowest being of the closest texture. 
We found the task of climbing above the upper ter- 
races difficult, in consequence of the looseness of the 
stones, which did not afford a firm footing, but after 
an hour's labor, we succeeded in reaching the top. 
The mountain is also composed of slate, but so much 
weathered near the summit, as to appear a mere col- 
lection of stones. Its height above the sea we esti- 
mated at eight hundred feet. Two or three hardy 
plants were in flower, at the highest elevation, which 
we gathered, though they were of the same kind that 
had been collected in the lower lands ; and dur- 
ing the whole march we did not meet with any plant 
different from the specimens we had already obtained. 
On arriving at the top of the mountain, we were re- 
freshed by a strong south wind, which we fondly 



456 Thirty Years 



hoped might reach to the coast, and be of service by 
driving the ice from the land. This hope, however, 
lasted only a few minutes ; for, on casting our eyes 
to seaward, there appeared no open water into which 
it could be moved, except near Herschel Island. The 
view into the interior possessed the charm of novelty, 
and attracted particular regard. We commanded a 
prospect over three ranges of mountains, lying paral- 
lel to the Buckland chain, but of less altitude. The 
view was bounded by a fourth range of high-peaked 
mountains, for the most part covered with snow. 
This distant range was afterwards distinguished by 
the name of the British Chain ; and the mountains at 
its extremities were named in honor of the then Chan- 
cellor of the Exchequer, and President of the Board 
of Trade — the Right Honorable Mr. Robinson, now 
Lord Goderich, and Mr. Huskisson. When seen from 
the coast, the mountains of the Buckland chain ap- 
peared to form a continuous line, extending from N. 
W. by N., to S. E. by S. ; but from our present situa- 
tion we discovered that they were separated from each 
other by a deep valley, and a rivulet, and that their 
longest direction was N.N.E. and S.S.W. The same 
order prevailed in the three ranges behind the Buck- 
land chain ; and the highest of their mountains, like 
Mount Conybeare, were round and naked at the top ; 
the vallies between them were grassy. We erected a 



In the Arctic Regions. 457 



pile of stones of sufficient height to be seen from the 
sea, and deposited underneath it a note, containing 
the latitude, longitude, and some particulars relative* 
to the Expedition. 

s 1Sdf y ' Tne 22nd was a calm > sultl T da y> tne tem ~ 
perature varying between 58° and 63°, and we were 
tormented by musquitoes. The ice remained very 
close to the beach. Impatient of our long detention, 
we gladly availed ourselves, at three in the morning 
of the 23rd, of a small opening in the ice, to launch 
the boats, and push them forward as far as we could 
get them. We thus succeeded in reaching a lane of 
water, through which we made tolerable progress, 
though after two hours and a half of exertion, we 
were gradually hemmed in, and forced again to en- 
camp at the mouth of a small stream westward of Sir 
Pulteney Malcolm River. We had, however, the 
satisfaction of finding, by the observations, that we 
had gained ten miles. The temperature of the water 
at the surface a quarter of a mile from the shore was 
40°, that of the air being 49°. The water was two 
fathoms deep, ten yards from the beach. 

The coast here was about , fifteen feet high ; and 
from tne top of the bank a level plain extended to the 
base of the mountains, which, though very swampy, 
was covered with verdure. At this place we first 
found boulder stones, which were deeply seated in the 



Z58 Thirty Years 



gravel of the beach. They consisted of greenstone^ 
sandstone, and limestone ; the first mentioned being 
the largest, and the last the most numerous. Having 
seen several fish leaping in the river, a net was set 
across its mouth, though without success, owing to 
the meshes being too large. Two men were des- 
patched to examine the state of the ice ; and on their 
return from a walk of several miles, they reported 
that, with the exception of a small spot close to the 
beach, it was quite compact. They had observed, 
about two miles from the encampment, stumps of 
drift wood fixed in the ground at certain distances, 
extending from the coast across the plain towards the 
Rocky Mountains, in the direction of two piles of 
stones, which were erected on the top of the latter 
We were at a loss to conjecture what motive the Es- 
quimaux could have had for taking so much trouble, 
unless these posts were intended to serve as decoys for 
the reindeer. The party assembled at divine service 
in the evening, as had been our practice every Sunday. 
M £ith ay Q n * ne morning of the 24th we were able to 
make a further advance of two miles and three-quar- 
ters, by forcing the boats between the masses of ice, 
as far as the debouche of another rivulet. Under any 
other circumstance than that of being beset by ice, 
the beautifully calm and clear weather we then had 
would have been delightful ; but as our hope of being 



In the Arctic Regions. 459 

released rested solely on a strong wind, we never 
ceased to long for its occurrence. A breeze would 
have been, at any rate, beneficial in driving away the 
mosquitoes, which were so numerous as to prevent 
any enjoyment of the open air, and to keep us confined 
to a tent filled with smoke, the only remedy against 
their annoyance. 

T 25th ay We were still detained the two following 
days, and the only things we saw were a grey wolf, 
some seals, and some ducks. More tedious hours than 
those passed by us in the present situation, cannot 
well be imagined. After the astronomical observa- 
tions had been obtained and worked, the survey 
brought up, a sketch made of the encampment, and 
specimens of the plants and stones in the vicinity col- 
lected, there was, literally, nothing to do. The anx- 
iety- which was inseparable from such an enterprise as 
ours, at such an advanced period of the season, left 
but little disposition to read, even if there had been a 
greater choice of books in our traveling library, and 
still less composure to invent amusement. Even had 
the musquitoes been less tormenting, the swampiness 
of the ground, in which we sank ancle deep at every 
step, deprived us of the pleasure of walking. A visit 
to the Rocky Mountains was often talked of, but they 
were now at a distance of two days' journey, and we 
dared not to be absent from the boats so long, lest 



460 Thirty Years 



the ice, in its fickle movements, should open for a 
short time. Notwithstanding the closeness of the ice, 
we perceived a regular rise and fall of the water, 
though it amounted only to seven inches, except on 
the night of the 24th, when the rise was two feet ; 
but the direction of the flood was not yet ascertained. 
We found a greater proportion of birch-wood, mixed 
with the drift timber to the westward of the Babbage, 
than we had done before ; between the Mackenzie and 
that river it had been so scarce, that we had to draw 
upon our store of bark to light the fires. Some lunar 
observations were obtained in the afternoon of the 25th. 
and their results assured us that the chronometers 
were going steadily. At midnight we were visited by 
a strong S.W. breeze, accompanied by rain, thunder, 
and lightning. This weather was succeeded by calm, 
and a fog that continued throughout the next day, 
and confined our view to a few yards. Temperature 
from 41° to 43°. On the atmosphere becoming clear 
We 26th day aDout nme m tne evening of the 26th, we 
discovered a lane of water, and immediately embarking, 
we pulled, for an hour, without experiencing much in- 
terruption from the ice. A fresh breeze then sprung 
up from the N.W., which brought with it a very dense 
fog, and likewise caused the ice to close so fast upon 
us, that we were compelled to hasten to the shore. 
We had just landed, when the channel was complete- 



In the Arctic Regions. 461 

ly closed. We encamped on the western side of a 
river about two hundred yards broad, which, at the 
request of Lieutenant Back, was named after Mr. 
Backhouse, one of the under Secretaries of State for 
Foreign Affairs. It appeared that the water that 
flowed from this channel had caused the opening by 
which we had traveled from our last resting-place ; 
for beyond it, the ice was closely packed. 

Th 27th. ay ' Some heavy rain fell in the night, and the 
morning of the 27th was 'foggy ; but the sun, about 
noon, having dispersed the fog, we discovered an open 
channel, about half a mile from the shore. 

Sa SS ay ' T Qe morning of the 29th opened with heavy 
rain and fog ; the precursors of a strong gale from 
E.N.E., which brought back the ice we had already 
passed, and closely packed it along the beach, but we 
could not perceive that the wind had the slighest 
effect on the * main body at a distance from the shore. 
This was a very cold, comfortless day, the temperature 
between 38° and 42°. On the following morning a 
brilliant sun contributed with the gale to the disper- 
sion of the mist which had, for some days past, over- 
hung the Rocky Mountains, and we had the gratifica- 
tion of seeing, for the first time, the whole length of 
the British Chain of Mountains, which are more 
peaked and irregular in their outline, and more 
picturesque than those of the Buckland Range. In 



462 Thirty Years 



exploring the bed of a rivulet we found several pieces 
of* quartz, containing pyrites of a very bright color, 
which so much attracted the attention of the crews, 
that they spent several hours in examining every 
stone, expecting to have their labor rewarded by the 
discovery of some precious metal. 

The gale having abated in the evening, we quickly 
loaded the boats, and pulled them into a lane of water 
that we had observed about half a mile from the shore. 
This, however, extended only a short way to the west, 
and at the end of a mile and a half inclined towards 
the beach, the ice beyond it being closely packed. 
Before the boats could be brought to the land, they 
received several heavy blows in parsing through nar- 
row channels, and over tongues of grounded ice. I 
walked to the extreme point that we had in view 
from the tent, and was rejoiced by the sight of a large 
space of water in the direction of our course ; but up 
to the point the ice was sdll compact, and heavy. 
On my way I passed another Esquimaux village, 
where there were marks of recent visitors. 

We witnessed the setting of the sun at eleven p.m., 
an unwelcome sight, which the gloomy weather had, 
till then, spared us ; for it forced upon our minds the 
Conviction that the favorable season for our operations 
was fast passing away, though we had, as yet, made 
so little progress. This was not the only uncomforta- 



In the Arctic Regions. 463 

ble circumstance that attended us this evening. Om 
friend Augustus was seized with a shivering fit, in 
consequence of having imprudently rushed, when in 
full perspiration, into a lake of cold water, to drag out 
a reindeer which he had killed. He was unable to 
walk on coming out of the water, and the consequence 
would have been more serious had it not been for the 
kindness of his companion, Wilson, who deprived 
himself of his flannels and waistcoat to clothe him. 
On their arrival at the tent, Augustus was put be- 
tween blankets, and provided with warm chocolate, 
and the only inconvenience that he felt next morning 
was pain in his limbs. 

Monday, y^r e ^^ severa l showers of rain daring the 
night, with a steady S.W. breeze, and in the morning 
of the 31st were delighted by perceiving the ice 
loosening and driving off the land. We were afloat 
in a few minutes, and enjoyed the novelty of pulling 
through an uninterrupted channel as far as Point 
Demarcation, which has been so named from its being 
situated in longitude 141° W., the boundary between 
the British and Eussian dominions on the northern 
coast of America. This point seems to be much 
resorted to by the Esquimaux, as we found here many 
winter houses, and four large stages. On the latter 
were deposited several bundles of seal and deer skins, 
and several pair of snow-shoes. The snow-shoes were 



464 Thirty Years 



netted with cords of deer-skin, and were shaped like 
those used by the Indians near the Mackenzie. A 
favorable breeze now sprang up ; and having ascer- 
tained, by mounting one of the Esquimaux stages, 
that there was still a channel of open water between 
a low island and the main shore, we set sail to follow 
its course. At the end of three miles we found the 
water gradually to decrease from three fathoms to as 
many feet, and shortly after wards, the boats repeatedly 
took the ground. In this situation we were enveloped 
by a thick fog, which limited our view to a few yards. 
We, therefore, dragged the boats to the land, until 
we could see our way ; this did not happen before ten 
in the evening, when it was discovered from the sub- 
mit of an eminence about two miles distant, that 
though the channel was of some extent, it was very 
shallow, and seemed to be barred by ice to the west- 
ward. We also ascertained that it was bounded to 
seaward by a long reef. The night proved very 
stormy, and we were but scantily supplied with drift 
wood. 

Tuesday Though the morning of the 1st of August 
commenced with a heavy gale from E.N.E., and very 
foggy weather, we proceeded to the reef, after much 
fatigue in dragging the boats over the flats, under the 
supposition that our best chance of getting forward 
would be by passing on the outside of it. But thero 



In the Arctic Eegions. 465 

finding heavy ice lying aground, and so closely packed 
as to preclude the possibility of putting the boats into 
the water, it was determined to examine the channel 
by walking along the shore of the reef. An outlet to 
the sea was discovered, but the channel was so flat 
that gulls were, in most parts, wading across it ; and 
there was, therefore, no other course than to await 
the separation of the ice from the reef. On the dis- 
persion of the fog in the afternoon, we perceived that 
some of the masses of ice were from twenty to thirty 
feet high ; and we derived little comfort from behold- 
ing, from the top of one of them, an unbroken surface 
of ice to seaward. 

We Sd. day ' Tlie S ale blew witn01lt tne least abatement 
throughout the night, and until noon of the 2nd, when 
it terminated in a violent gust, which overthrew the 
tents. The field of ice was broken in the offing, and 
the pieces put in motion ; and in the evening there ap- 
peared a large space of open water, but we could not 
take advantage of these favorable circumstances, in 
consequence of the ice still closely besetting the reef. 
Lieutenant Back occupied himself in sketching the 
different views from the reef ; from one of which the 
annexed engraving has been selected, as conveying an 
accurate delineation of our position on Icy Eeef. We 
remarked large heaps of gravel, fifteen feet above the 

surface of the reef, on the largest iceberg, which must 

20* 



466 Thirty Years 



have been caused by the pressure of the ice ; and from 
the top of this berg we had the satisfaction of discov- 
ering that a large herd of reindeer were marching in 
line towards the opposite side of the channel. Our 
party was instantly on the alert, and the best hunters 
were sent in the Reliance in chase of them. The boal 
grounded about midway across, and the eager sports- 
men jumped overboard and hastened to the shore j 
but such was their want of skill, that only three fawns 
were killed, out of a herd of three or four hundred. 
The supply, however, was sufficient for our present 
use, and the circumstances of the chase afforded amu- 
sing conversation for the evening. 

Th 3rd day ' O n tne morn i n g of the 3rd a strong breeze 
set in from the east, which we were rejoiced to find 
caused a higher flood in the channel than we had yet 
seen, and the hope of effecting a passage by its course 
was revived ; as the ice was still fast to the reef, and 
likely to continue so, it was considered better to oc- 
cupy ourselves in dragging the boats through the 
mud, than to continue longer in this irksome spot, 
where the wood was already scarce, and the water in- 
different. The boats, therefore, proceeded with four 
men in each, while the rest of the crew walked along 
the shore, and rendered assistance wherever it was 
necessary, to drag them over the shallow parts. After 
four hours' labor, we reached the eastern pait of the 



In the Arctic Regions. 46? 

bay, which I have had the pleasure of naming after 
my friend Captain Beaufort. R.N., and which was 
then covered with ice. We had also the happiness of 
finding a channel that led to seaward, which enabled 
us to get on the outside of the reef; but as we pushed 
as close as we could to the border of the packed ice, 
our situation, for the next four hours, was attended 
with no little anxiety. The appearance of the clouds 
bespoke the return of fog, and we were sailing with a 
strong breeze through narrow channels, between heavy 
pieces of drift ice, on the outside of a chain of reefs 
that stretched across Beaufort Bay, which we knew 
could not be approached within a mile, owing to the 
shallowness of the water. 

At six in the evening, the party passed the termi- 
nation of the British chain of mountains, and the next 
day came in sight of the Rome rzoff chain, continuing 
in boats along the shore. On the 7th of August, Fi- 
loxman Island was reached. In coasting along the 
Polar Sea, the Expedition was greatly troubled by 
the dense fogs, which almost put an end to traveling. 

On the 16th day of August, the forces of the party 
were turned homeward to the winter quarter, at Fort 
Franklin, near Bear Lake River — which place they 
reached en Thursday, September 21 — after traveling 
in three months, 2048 statute miles. Dr. Richardson 
had arrived with the Eastern detachment of the Ex- 



468 Thirty Years 



pedition. He had traveled 1980 miles — a sea voyage 
of 863 miles included — passing from Sacred island to 
Fort Encounter, Fort Encounter to the Copper Moun- 
tains, and thence overland to Bear Lake. 

The winter of ] 826-7 was passed in comparative 
comfort, certainly without actual suffering ; and late 
in September, the party arrived in London, 



HAPTER XVII. 

On the 26th of May, 1845, Franklin— long since 
made Sir John Franklin — with the " Erebus" and 
" Terror" two strong and well made vessels, with 
140 men, set out on his last Arctic Expedition, and 
from which he has never returned. 

A letter from Sir John Franklin, dated from the 
Whalefish Islands, Baffin's Bay, July 12, 1845, is the 
last communication from the Expedition ever received 
in England. 

Dr. Eae, who prosecuted an overland journey in 
search of Franklin, gives the following particulars : 

Repulse Bay, July 29. 

" Sir, — I have the honor to mention, for the information of my 

Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that during my journey over 

the ice and snow this spring, with the view of completing the survey 

of the west shore of Boothia, I met with Esquimaux in Peliy Bay, from 



In the Arctic Regions, 4G9 



one of whom I learned that a party of 'white men' (Kablounans) had 
perished from want of food some distance to the westward, and not far 
beyond a large river, containing many falls and rapids. Subsequently, 
further particulars were received, and a number of articles purchased, 
which places the fate of a portion, if not of all. of the then survivors 
of Sir John Franklin's long-lost party beyond a doubt — a fate terrible 
as the imagination can conceive. 

" The substance of the information obtained at various times and 
from various sources was as follows — 

"In the spring, four winters past (spring, 1850,) a party of ' white 
men,' amounting to about forty, were seen traveling southward over 
the ice and dragging a boat with them, by some Esquimaux, who 
were killing seals near the north shore of King Williams' Land, which 
is a large island. None of the party could speak the Esquimaux lan- 
guage intelligibly, but by signs the natives were made to understand 
that their ship, or ships, had been crushed by the ice, and that they 
were now going to where they expected to find deer to shoot. From 
the appearance of the men, all of whom except one officer, looked 
thin, they were then supposed to be getting short of provisions, and 
purchased a small seal from the natives. At a later date the same 
season, but previous to the breaking up of the ice, the bodies of some 
thirty persons were discovered on the continent, and five on an island 
near it, about a long day's journey to the N. W. of a large stream, 
which can be no other than Back's Great Fish River, (named by the 
Esquimaux Doot-ko-hi-calik,) as its description, and that of the low 
shore in the neighborhood of Point Ogle acd Montreal Island, agree 
exactly with that of Sir George Back. Some of the bodies had been 
buried, (probably those of the first victims of famine,) some were in a 
tent or tents, others under the boat, which had been turned over to 
form a shelter, and several lay scattered about in different directions. 
Of those found on the island, one was supposed to have been an officer, 
as he had a telescope strapped over his shoulders, and his double-bar- 
relled gun lay underneath him. 

" From the mutilated state of many of the corpses, and the contents 
of the kettles, it is evident that our wretched countrymen had beer, 
driven to the last resource — cannibalism — as a means of prolonging 
existence. 

" There appeared to have been an abundant stock of ammunition, as 
the powder was emptied in a heap on the ground by the natives out of 
the kegs or cases containing it ; and a quantity of ball and shot was 
found below high-water mark, having; probably been left on the ice 
close to the beach. There must have been a number of watches, com- 
passes, telescopes, guns, (several double-barreled,) &e., all of which 
appear to have been broken up, as I saw pieces of those different arti- 
cles with the Esquimaux, together with some silver spoons and forks. 
I purchased as many as I could get. A list of the most important of 
these I enclose, with a rough sketch of the crests and initials on the 



470 Thirty Years 



forks and spoons. The articles themselves shall be handed over to the 
Secretary of the Hudson's Bay Company on my arrival in London. 

" None of the Esquimaux with whom I conversed had seen the 
' whites,' nor had they ever been at the place where the bodies were 
found, but had their information from those who had been there, and 
who had seen the party when traveling. 

" I offer no apology for taking the liberty of addressing you, as I do 
so from a belief that their lordships would be desirous of being put in 
possession, at as early a date as possible, of any tidings, however 
meagre and unexpectedly obtained, regarding this painfully interesting 
subject. 

" I may add that, by means of our guns and nets, we obtained an 
ample supply of provisions last autumn, and my small party passed 
the winter in snow-houses in comparative comfort, the skins of the 
deer shot affording abundant warm clothing and bedding. My spring 
journey was a failure, in consequence of an accumulation of obstacles, 
several of which my former experience in arctic traveling had not 
taught me to expect. I have, &c. JOHN RAE, C.F., 

" Commanding Hudson's Bay Company* s Arctic Expedition ." 



To such a tragic detail as this, little could he add- 
ed, until the recent return of the screw yacht Fox, 
sent out by Lady Franklin, whose persistent devoted- 
ness of search for her husband is worthy of the high- 
est praise. This vessel arrived off the Isle of Wight, 
Sept. 21, 1859. The following is the report submit- 
ted by Capt. McClintock to the Admiralty. 

PROCEEDINGS OF THE YACHT FOX, 
Continued from May, 1858. 

It will be remembered that the Fox effected her escape out of the 
main pack in Davis' Straits, in lat. 63 J deg. N., on the 25th of April, 
1858, after a winter's ice drift of 1.194 geographical miles. 

The small settlement of Holsteinborg was reached on the 28th, and 
such very scanty supplies obtained as the place afforded. 

On May 8th our voyage was recommenced ; Godhaven and Uperni- 
vik visited, Melville Bay entered early in June, and crossed to Cape 
York by the 26th; here some natives were communicated with; they 
immediately recognized Mr. Peterson, our interpreter, formerly know 



In the Arctic Begions. 471 



to them in the Grinnell expedition under Dr. Kane. In reply to our 
inquiries for the Esquimaux dog driver " Hans" left behind from the 
Advance in 1848, they told us that he was residing at Whale Sound. 
Had he been there I would most gladly have embarked him, as his 
longing to return to South Greenland continues unabated. 

On July 12th communicated with the Cape Warrender natives, near 
Cape Horsburg ; they had not seen any ships since the visit of the 
Phoenix in 1854, nor have any wrecks ever drifted upon their shores. 

It was not until 27th July that we reached Points Inlet, owing to a 
most unusual prevalence of ice in the northern portion of Baffin's Bay, 
and which rendered our progress since leaving Holsteinborg one of in- 
creasing struggle. Without steam power we could have done nothing. 
Here only one old woman and a boy were found, but they served to 
pilot us up the inlet for twenty-five miles, when we arrived at their 
village. For about a week we were in constant and most interesting 
communication with these friendly people. Briefly, the information 
obtained from them was, that nothing whatever respecting the Franklin 
expedition had come to their knowledge, nor had any wrecks within 
the last twenty or thirty years reached their shores. 

The remains of three wrecked ships are known to them ; two of 
these appear to have been the whalers Dexterity and Aurora, wrecked 
in August, 1821, some seventy or eighty miles southward of Pond's 
Inlet. The third vessel, now almost buried in the sand, lies a few 
miles east of Cape Hay. This people communicate overland every 
winter with the tribes at Igloolik ; they all knew of Parry's ships hav- 
ing wintered there in 1822-3, and had heard of laie years of Dr. Rye's 
visit to Repulse Bay, describing his boats as similar to our whale boat, 
and his party as living in tents, within know houses, smoking pipes, 
shooting reindeer, &c, &c. None died. They remained there only 
one winter. 

No rumor of the lost expedition has reached them. Within Pond's 
Inlet, the natives told us the ice decays away every year, but so long 
as any remains whales abound. Several large whales were seen by 
us, and we found amongst the natives a considerable quantity of 
whalebone and many norwhale's horns, which they were anxious to 
barter for knives, files, saws, rifles, and wool ; they drew us some 
rude charts of the inlet, showing that it expands into an extensive 
channel looking westward into Prince Regent's Inlet. We could not 
but regret that none of our own whaling friends — from whom we had 
recently received so much kindness — were here to profit by so favor- 
able an opportunity. Leaving Pond's Inlet on the 6th August, we 
leached Beechy Island on the 11th, and landed a handsome marble 
tablet, sent on board for this purpose by Lady Franklin, bearing an 
appropriate inscription to the memory of our lost countrymen in the 
Erebus and Terror. 

Tin 4 provisions and stores seemed in perfect order, but a small boat 
was much damaged from having been turned over and rolled along the 



472 Thirty Years 



beach by a storm. The roof of the house received some necessary 
repairs. Having embarked some coals and stores we stood in need of 
and touched at Cape Hotham on the 16th, we sailed down Peel Strait 
for 25 miles on the 17th, but finding the remainder of this channel 
covered by unbroken ice, I determined to make for Bellot's Strait on 
19th of August, examined into supplies remaining at Port Leopold, 
and left there a whale-boat which we brought away from Cape Hotham 
for the purpose, so as to aid us in our retreat should we be obliged 
eventually to abandon the Fox. The steam launch had been forced 
higher up on the beach, and somewhat damaged by the ice. Prince 
Regent's Inlet was unusually free from ice, but very little was seer 
during our run down to Brentford Bay, which we reached on the 20th 
August. Bellot's Strait, which communicates with the Western sea, 
averages one mile in width, by 17 or 18 miles in length. At this time 
it was filled with drift ice, but as the season advanced became per- 
fectly clear ; its shores are in many places faced with lofty granite 
cliffs, and some of the adjacent hills rise 1,600 feet; the tides are very 
strong, running six or seven knots at the springs. On the 6th of Sep- 
tember we passed through Bellot's Strait without obstruction, and se- 
cured the ship to fixed ice across its western outlet. From here, until 
the 27th, when I deemed it necessary to retreat into winter quarters, 
we constantly w r atched the movements of the ice in the western sea or 
channel. In mid-channel it was broken up and drifting about; grad- 
ually the proportion of water increased, until at length the ice which 
intervened was reduced to three or four miles in width. But tins was 
firmly held fast by numerous islets, and withstood the violence of the 
autumn gales. It was tantalising beyond description thus to watch 
from day to day the free water which we could not reach, and which 
washed the rocky shore a few miles to the southward of us ! 

During the autumn attempts were made to carry our depots of pro 
visions towards the magnetic pole, but these almost entirely failed in 
consequence of the disruption of the ice to the southward. Lieutenant 
Hobson returned with his sledge parties in November, after much suf- 
fering from severe weather, and imminent peril on one occasion, when 
the ice upon which they were encamped became detached from the 
shore, and drifted off to leeward with them. 

Our wintering position was at the east entrance to Bellot's Strait in 
a snug harbor, which I have named Port Kenned}-, after my predeces- 
sor in these waters, the commander of one of Lady Franklin's former 
searching expeditions. Although vegetation was tolerably abundant, 
and our two Esquimaux hunters, Mr. Peterson, and several sportsmen 
were constantly on the alert, yet the resources of the country during 
eleven months and a half, only yielded us eight reindeer, two bears, 
eighteen seals and a few water fowl and ptarmigan. 

The winter was unusually cold and stormy. Arrangements were 
completed during the winter for carrying out our intended plan oi 
search; I felt it to be my duty personally to visit Marshal Island, and 



In the Arctic Regions. 473 



in so doing purposed to complete the circuit of King William's Island. 
To Lieut. Hobson I alloted the search of the western shore of Boo- 
thia to the magnetic pole, and from Gateshead Island westward to 
Wynniatt's farthest. Captain Allen Young, our sailing master, was to 
trace the shore of Prince of Wales's Land, from Lieut. Browne's far- 
thest ; and also to examine the coast from Bellot's Strait northward, 
to Sir James Boss's farthest. 

Early spring journeys were commenced on the 17th Feb., 1859, by 
Capt. Young and myself, Capt. Young carrying his depot across to 
Prince of Wales's Land, whilst I went southward, towards the mag- 
netic pole in the hope o-' communicating with the Esquimaux, and ob- 
taining such informaf" a as might lead us at once to the object of our 
search. 

I was accompanj' I by Mr. Peterson, our interpreter, and Alexander 
Thomson, quartet iaster. We had with us two sledges drawn by 
dogs. On the 2^ of Feb., when near Cape Victoria, we had the good 
fortune to meet <$mall party of natives, and were subsequently visit- 
ed by about fc .- -five individuals. 

For four da > we remained in communication with them, obtaining 
many relics, *-i 1 the information that several years ago a ship was 
crushed by t ice off the north shore, off King William's Island, but 
that all her j ople landed safely, and went away to the Great Fish 
River, when .hey died. This tribe was well supplied with wood, ob- 
tained, thej jaid, from a boat left by the white men on the great river. 

We reached our vessel after twenty-five days' absence, in good health 
but somewhat reduced by sharp marching and the unusually severe 
weather to which we had been exposed. For several days after start- 
ing the mercury continued frozen. 

On the 2nd of April our long projected spring journeys were com- 
menced ; Lieutenant Hobson accompanied me as far as Cape Victoria, 
each of us had a sledge drawn by four men, and an auxiliary sledge 
drawn by six dogs. This was all the force we could muster. 

Before separating, we saw two Esquimaux families living out upon 
the ice in snow huts ; from them we learned that a second ship had 
been seen off King William's Island, and that she drifted ashore on the 
fall of the same year. From this ship they had obtained a vast deal 
of wood and iron. 

I now gave Lieut. Hobson directions to search for the wreck, and 
follow up any traces he might find upon King William's Island. 

Accompanied by my own party and, Mr. Peterson, I marched along 
the east shore of King William's Island, occasionally passing deserted 
snow huts, but without meeting natives till the 8th of May, when off 
Cape Norton we arrived at a snow village containing about thirty in- 
habitants. They gathered about us without the slightest appearance 
of fear or shyness, although none had ever seen living white people 
before. They were most willing to communicate all their knowledge, 
and barter all their goods, but would have stolen everything had they 



474 Thirty Years 



not been very closely watched. -Many more relics of our countrymen 
were obtained — we could not carry away all we might have purchased. 

They pointed to the inlet we had crossed the day before, and told 
us that one day's march up it, and from thence four days overland, 
brought them to the wreck. 

None of these people had been there since 1857-8, at which time 
they said but little remained, their countrymen having carried away 
almost everything. 

Most of our information 'was received from an intelligent old woman ; 
she said that it was on the fall of the year that the ship was forced 
ashore ; many of the white men dropped by the way as they went to- 
wards the Great River ; but this was only known to them in the winter 
following, when their bodies were discovered. They all assured us 
that we would find natives upon the south shore, at the Great River, 
and some few at the wreck ; but unfortunately this was not the case. 
Only one family was met with off Point Booth, and none at Montreal 
Island, or any place subsequently visited. 

Point Ogle, Montreal Island, and Barrow Island, were searched 
without finding anything except a few scraps of copper and iron in an 
Esquimaux hiding-place. 

Recrossing the Strait to King "William's Island, we continued the ex- 
amination of its southern shore without success until the 24th of May, 
when about ten miles eastward of Cape Herschel a bleached skeleton 
was found, around which lay fragments of European clothing. Upon 
carefully removing the snow a small pocket book was found contain- 
ing a few letters — these, although much decayed, may yet be decipher- 
ed. Judging from the remains of his dress, this unfortunate young 
man was a steward or officer's servant, and his position exactly verified 
the Esquimaux's assertion that they dropped as they walked along. 

On reaching Cape Herschel next day, he examined Simpson's Cairn, 
or rather what remains of it, which is only four feet high, and the 
central stores had been removed, as if by men seeking something 
within it. My impression at the time, and which I still retain, is that 
records were deposited there by the retreating crews, and subsequeut- 
ly removed by the natives. 

After parting from me at Cape Victoria on the 28th April, Lieutenant 
Hobson made for Cape Felix ; at a short distance westward of it he 
found a very large cairn, and close to it three small tents, with blan- 
kets, old elothes, and other relics of a shooting or a magnetic station ; 
but although the cairn was dug under, and a trench dug all round it at 
a distance of ten feet, no record was discovered. A piece of blank 
paper folded up was found in the cairn, and two broken bottles which 
may perhaps have contained records, lay beside it amongst some stones 
which bad tallen from off the top. The most interesting of the arti- 
cles discovered here, including a boat's ensign, were brought away by 
Mr. Hobson. About two miles farther to the S. W. a small cairn was 
Sound, but neither records nor relics obtained. About three mi lies 



In the Arctic Beg ions. 47^ 



north of Point Victory a second small cairn was examined, but only a 
broken pickaxe and empty canister found. 

On 6th May, Lieut. Hobson pitched his tent beside alarge cairn upon 
Point Victory. Lying amongst some loose stones which had fallen 
from the top of this cairn was found a small tin case containing a re- 
cord, the substance of which is briefly as follows : — This cairn was 
built by the Franklin Expedition upon the assumed site of James 
Ross's pillar, which had not been found. The Erebus and Terror 
spent their first winter at Beechy Island, after having ascended Well- 
ington Channel to lat. 77 deg. N., and returned by the west side of 
(Jornwallis Island. On the 12th of September, 1840, they were beset 
in lat. 70 05 N. and Ion. 08 23 W. 

Sir J. Franklin died on the 11th June, 1847. On the 22nd April, 
1848, the ships were abandoned five leagues to the N.N.W. of Point 
Victory, and the survivors, a hundred and five in number, landed here 
under the command of Captain Crozier. This paper was dated 25th 
April, 1848, and upon the following day they intended to start tor the 
Great Fish River. The total loss by deaths in the expedition up to 
this date was nine officers and fifteen men. A vast quantity of cloth- 
ing and stores of all sorts lay strewed about, as if here every article 
was thrown away which could possibly be dispensed with ; pickaxes, 
shovels, boats, cooking utensils, iron work, rope, blocks, canvass, a 
dip circle, a sextant engraved " Frederic Hornby," R. N., asmall medi- 
cine chest, oars, &c. 

A few miles southward across Black Bay, a second record was 
found, having been deposited by Lieutenant Gore and M. ties Vceuxin 
May, 1847. It afforded no additional information. 

Lieut. Hobson continued his search until within a few days' march 
of Cape Herschel, without finding any trace of the wreck or of natives. 
He left full information of his important discoveries for me ; therefore, 
when returning northward by the west shore of King William's Island, 
1 had the advantage of knowing what had already been found. 

Soon after 1< aving Cape Herschel the traces of natives became less 
numerous and less recent, and after rounding the west point of the is- 
land, they ceased altogether. This shore is extremely low, and almost 
utterly destitute of vegetation. Numerous banks of shingle and low 
islets lie off it, and beyond these, Victoria Strait is covered with heavy 
and impenetrable packed ice. 

"N hen in lat. 69 deg. 09 N., and long. 99 deg. 27 W., we came to a 
large boat, discovered by Lieutenant Hobson a few daj's previously, as 
hit) notice informed me. It appears that this boat had been intended 
for the ascent of the Fish River, but was abandoned apparently upon 
a return journey to the ships, the sledge upon which she was mounted 
being pointed in that direction. She was 28 feet in length, by 7£ feet 
wide, was most carefully fitted, and made as light as possible, but the 
aiedge was of solid oak, and almost as heavy as the boat. 

A large quantity of clothing was fomd within her. also two human 



476 Thirty Years 



skeletons. One of these lay in the after part of the boat, under a pile 
of clothing; the other, which was much more disturbed, probably by 
animals, was found in the bow. Five pocket watches, a quantity of 
silver spoons and forks, and a few religious books, were also found, but 
no journals, pocket-books, or even names upon any articles of clothing. 
Two double-barrelled guns stood upright against the boat's side precise- 
ly as they had been placed eleven years before. One barrel in each 
was loaded and cocked ; there was ammunition in abundance, also 30 
lbs. or 40 lbs. of chocolate, some tea and tobacco. Fuel was not want- 
ing ; a drift tree lay within 100 yards of the boat. 

Many very interesting relics were brought away by Lieutenant Hob- 
son, and some few by myself. On the 5th of June I reached Point 
Victory, without having found anything further. The clothing, &c, 
was again examined for documents, note books, &c, without success, 
a record placed in the cairn, and another quired ten feet true north of 
it. 

Nothing worthy of remark occurred upon my return journey to the 
ship, which we reached on the 19th of June, five days after Lieutenant 
Hobson. 

The shore of King William's Island between its north and west ex- 
tremes, Capes Felix and Crozier, has not been visited by Esquimaux 
since the abandonment of the Erebus and Terror, as the cairns and ar- 
ticles lying strewed about, which are in their eyes of priceless value, 
remain untouched. 

If the wreck still remains visible, it is probable she lies upon some 
of the off-lying islets to the southward between Capes Crozier and 
Herschel. 

On the 28th of June, Capt. Young and his party returned, having 
completed their portion of the search, by which the insularity of 
Prince of Wales's Land was determined, and the coastline intervening 
between the extreme points reached by Lieuts. Osborne and Browne 
discovered; also between Beliefs Strait and Sir James Ross's farthest 
in 1849, at Four River Bay. 

Fearing that his provisions might not last out the requisite period. 
Capt. Young sent back four of his men, and for forty days journeyed 
on through fogs and gales with but one man and the dogs, building a 
snow hut each night ; but few men could stand so long a continuance 
of labor and privation, and its effect upon Capt. Young was painfully 
evident. 

Lieut. Hobson was unable to stand without assistance upon his re- 
turn on board ; he was not in good health when he commenced his 
long journey, and the sudden severe exposure brought on a serious at 
tack of scurvy ; yet he also most ably completed his work : and such 
facts will more clearly evince the unflinching spirit with which the ob- 
ject of our voyage has been pursued in these detached duties, than 
any praise of mine. 

We were now, at length, all on board again. As there were soma 



In the Arctic Regions. 477 



slight cases of scurvy all our treasured resources of Burton ale, lemon 
juice, and fresh animal food were put into requisition, so that in a com- 
paratively short time all were restored to sound health. 

During our sojourn in Port Kennedy, we were twice called upon to 
follow a shipmate to the grave. Mr. George Brands, engineer, died of 
anoplexy, on the 6th of November, 1858; he had been out deer-shoot- 
ing for several hours that day and appeared in excellent health. 

On the 14th June, 1859, 'Thomas Blackwall, ship's steward, dind of 
scurvy ; this man had served in two of the former searching expedi- 
tions. The summer proved a warm one ; we were able to start on our 
homeward voyage on the 9th of August, and although the engine- 
driver in 1857, and the engineer in 1858, left us with only two stokers, 
yet with their assistance I was able to control the engines and steam 
the ship up to Fury Point. 

For six days we lay there closely beset, when a change of wind re- 
moving the ice, our voyage was continued almost without further in- 
terruption, to Godhaven, in Disco, where we arrived on the 27th 
August, and were received with great kindness by Mr. Olick, inspector 
of North Greenland, and the local authorities, who obligingly supplied 
our few wants. 

The two Esquimaux dog drivers were now discharged, and on the 
1st September we sailed for England. 

From all that can be gleaned from the record paper, and the evi- 
dence afforded by the boat, and various articles of clothing and equip- 
ment discovered, it appears that the abandonment of the Erebus and 
Terror had been deliberately arranged, and every effort exerted dur- 
ing the third winter to render the traveling equipments complete. 

It is much to be apprehended that disease had greatly reduced the 
strength of all on board — far more, perhaps, than they themselves 
were aware of. 

The distance by sledge route, from the position of the ships when 
abandoned, is 65 geographical miles ; and from the ships to Montreal 
Island, 220 miles. 

The most perfect order seems to have oxisted throughout. 

In order to extend as much as possible the public utility of this voy- 
age, magnetical, meteorological, and other observations, subservient to 
scientific purposes, and for which instruments were supplied through 
the liberality of the Royal Society, have been continually and care- 
fully taken, and every opportunity has been embraced by the surgeon, 
D. Walker, M.D.. of forming complete collections in all the various 
branches of natural history. 

This report would be incomplete, did I not mention the obligations I 
have been under to the companions of my voyage, both officers and 
men, by their zealous and unvarying support throughout. 

A feeling of entire devotion to the cause which Lady Franklin has 
so nobly sustained, and a firm determination to effect all that men 
eould do, seem to have supported them through every difficulty. With 



478 Thirty Years 



less of this enthusiastic spirit, and cheerful obedience to every com- 
mand, our small number — twenty-three in all — would not have sufficed 
for the successful performance of so great a work. 

F. L. M'Clintock, Captain, R. N., 
Commanding the Final Searching Expedition. 
The Yacht Fox, R.Y.S., off Isle of Wight, 
Sept. 21, 1859. 



This letter is followed by a very minute detail of the relies, &c, discovered 
at various points of search ; some of these were brought home, and others were 
left. Our readers will bo enabled to judge of the nature of these relics by the 
few appended examples : — 

Relics brought from the Boat found inlat. 69 deg. 8 43 N., Ion. 99 deg. 24 42 
W., upon the West Coast of King William's Island, May 30, 1859. 

Two double-barrelled guns — one barrel in each is loaded. Found standing 
up against the side in the after-part of the boat. 

In one parcel. — A small Prayer-book, cover of a small book of t: Family 
Prayers ;" " Christian Melodies," an inscription within the cover to " G. Q. t " 
(Graham Gore ?) ; " Vicar of Wakefield ;" a small Bible, interlined in many 
places, and with numerous references written in the margin ; a New Testa- 
ment in the French language. 

Tied together. — Two table knives with white handles — one is marked " W. 
R. ;" a gimlet, an awl, two iron sfancheons, nine inches long, for supporting a 
weather cloth, which was round the boat. 

Tied together. — Twenty-six pieces .of silver plate — eleven spoons, eleven 
forks, and four tea spoons, three pieces of thin elm board (tingles) for repairing 
the boat, and measuring eleven by six inches, and three-tenths inch thick. 

All wrapped up in a piece of canvas. — Bristles for shoemakers' use. bullets, 
short clay pipe, roll of waxed twine, a wooden button, small piece of a port 
fire, two charges of shot, tied up in the finger of a kid glove, tied up in a frag- 
ment of a seaman's blue surge frock, &c, &c. 

Relics found about Ross Cairn, on Point Victory, May and June, 1859, 
brought auay. 
A six-inch diss circle, by Robinson, marked " I 22." A case of medicines, 
consisting of twenty-five small bottles, canister of pills, ointment, plaster, oiled 
silk, &c. A two-foot rule, two joints of the cleaning- rod of a gun, and a small 
copper spindle, probably for dogr-vanes of boats. The circular brass pi de 
broke out of a wooden gun case, and engraved " C. H. Ormer, R.N." The 
field glass and German silver top of a two-foot telescope, a coffee canister, a 
piece of a brass curtain rod. The record tin — the record dated 25th April, 
1848, has been taken out. A six-inch double frame sextant, on which the 
owner's name is engraved, " Frederic Hornby, R.N." 

Seen about Ross Cairn, Point Victory, not brought away. 
Four sets of boat-cooking apparatus complete, iron hoops, four feet of a 
supper lightning conductor. Hollow brass curtain rod three-quarters of an 
inch in diameter, three pickaxes, one shovel, old canvas, a pile of warm cloth- 
ing, blankets two feet high, two tin canteens stamped " 89 Co., War. Hedge, 
B8 Co., Wiu Heather." and a third one net marked. A small panniken made 



In the Arctic Regions. 47*J 



on board out of a 21bs. preserved meat-tin (and marked " W. Mark,") a 
Email deal box for gun-wadding. The heavy iron-work of a large boat, part 
of a canvas tent, part of an oar sawed longitudinally, and a blanket nailed 1o 
its flat side, three boat hook staves, strips of copper, a 9-inch single block strop- 
ped, a piece of rope and spun yam. Amongst the clothing was found a stock- 
ing marked " W," green, and a fragment of one marked " W. S." 

Relics obtained from the Boothian Esquimaux, near the Magnetic Pole, in 
March and April, 1859. 
Seven knives made by the natives out of materials obtained from the last 
expedition, one knife without a handle, one spearhead and staff (the latter was 
broken off), two files, a large spoon or scoop, the handle of pine or bone, the 
bowl of musk or ox horn, six silver spoons and forks, the property of Sir John 
Franklin, Lieutenants H. de Vescomte, and Fairholme, A. M'Donald, Assis- 
tant Surgeon, and Lieut. E. Couch, (supposed from the initial letter T and 
crest a lion's head), a small portion of a gold watch chain, a broken piece of 
ornamental work, apparently silver gilt, a few small naval and other metal 
buttons, a silver medal obtained by Mr. M'Donald as a prize for superior at- 
tainments at a medical examination in Edinburgh, April, 1838, some bows 
and arrows, in which wood, iron, or copper has been used in the construction — 
of no other interest. 

Relics obtained from the Esquimaux near Cape Norton, upon the East 
Coast of King William's Island, in May, 1859. 

Two table-spoons, upon one is scratched W W, on the other W G ; these 
bear the Franklin crest. Two table-forks, one bearing the Franklin crest ; 
the other is also crested, probably Captain Crozier's ; silversmith's name is I. 
West. Two teaspoons, one engraved A. M. D. (A. McDonald) ; the other 
bears the Fairholme crest and motto ; handle of a desert knife, into which had 
been inserted a razor (since broken off) by Millikin, Strand ; buttons, wood, and 
iron were in abundance ; but as enough of these had already been obtained, 
no more were purchased. 

Found lying about the skeleton, nine miles eastward of Cape Herschel, May,. 
1859. — The tie of a black silk handkerchief, fragments of a double-breastei 
blue cloth waistcoat with covered silk buttons, rnd edged with braid ; a scrap 
of a colored cotton shirt, silk covered buttons of blue cloth great coat, a small 
clothes, brush, a horn pocket-comb, a leather pocket-book, which fell to pieces 
when thawed and dried ; it contained nino or ten letters, a few leaves appa- 
rently blank. A sixpence, date 1831, and a half-sovereign, date 1S44. 

Enclosed are Copies of Original Papers found by Captain M 'Clintock on 
Prince of Wales's Island. 

" — of May, 1847. 
" Her Majesty's ships Erebus and Terror wintered in the ice in lat. 70 deg. 
5 min., Ion. 98 deg. 23 min. W. 

" Having wintered in 1845-6 at Beechey Island, in lat. 74 deg. 43 min. 28 
eec. N., Ion. 91 deg. 39 min. 15 sec. W., after ascending Wellington Channel 
to lat. 77 deg., and returning by the west side of Cornwallis Island. 

" Sir John Franklin, Commanding the Expedition. 
" All well. 

" Whoever finds thie paper is requested to forward it to the Secretary of tfee 
Admiralty, London, with a note of the time and place at which it was found, or, 



480 Thirty Years in the Arctic Regions. 

if more convenient, to deliver it for that purpose to the British consul at the 
nearest port." 

(The same in French, Spanish. Dutch, Danish, and German.) 
" Left the ships on Monday, the 24th of May, 1847, the party consisting of 
two officers and six men. 

" G. M. Gore, Lieutenant. 
il Chas. F. Des Vceux, Mate." 

It will thus be seen that, though in some points 
contradictory to Dr. Kae's accounts, in the main a 
remarkable confirmation is obtained. It is evident 
that the fate of Sir John Franklin has been ascertain- 
ed. This is the means of relieving many minds from 
the uncertainty which, hitherto, appertained to the 
Expedition ; while the pertinacity with which the 
search was continued, will have its influence on those 
who may be called to go forth on perilous undertak- 
ings. It has been made evident, alike by England and 
America, that those who go forth in a public service, 
shall Dot be abandoned, and thus moral courage is 
strengthened for future enterprises. 

The recent expedition of Capt. M'Clintock has done 
more than bring records and relics of Franklin's com- 
pany. Our geographical knowledge is enlarged by the 
examination of eight hundred miles of coast, and this 
connected with previous surveys. In short, while 
steadfastly pursuing the noble service to which the 
Fox was primarily devoted, her officers and crew found 
opportunity to add a large quota to our information 
of the globe we inhabit. 



